- Author: Gayle Nelson
By Gayle Nelson, U.C. Master Gardener of Napa County
Armed with a little knowledge and time, any homeowner can prune his or her own fruit trees. Here's a multi-point primer to get you started, beginning with some actions to take well before you prune.
Keep fruit trees under six feet in height. Train the tree in the first few years to create a strong scaffold and branch structure. This balanced, open structure and short stature will make future care easier and minimize the potential of a ladder mishap.
Thin fruit early so that remaining fruits are five to six inches apart. Discarding fruit may seem wasteful, but thinning allows the remaining fruit to develop to full size and reduces the risk of disease transmission and broken limbs.
Prune regularly. Begin right after new trees are planted and continue pruning thoughtfully throughout the tree's life. Pruning establishes a sound structure, promotes air circulation, balances shade and sun and encourages fruit production. Numerous books and online resources can advise you on how to prune each type of fruit tree correctly. Typing “UC fruit tree pruning” into your search engine will yield University of California-sanctioned publications, articles and videos for guidance.
Understand the difference between dormant pruning and summer pruning. Dormant pruning takes place in winter when the tree's leaves have fallen and you can see the branch structure clearly. Pruning during dormancy helps manage fruit production and guide the structure. It invigorates the tree, spurring growth the following spring.
Summer pruning manages the size of the tree. You can prune any time from spring through summer to train young trees, reduce tree height and improve sunlight access.
Learn some tree anatomy. Mastering such terms as scaffold branch, lateral branch, node, fruiting wood and fruit spur, water sprout and branch collar will help you understand your tree's growth cycle.
A scaffold branch is a main structural limb. Lateral branches emerge from the scaffold branches but are not as strong or upright. A node is where a leaf attaches to the shoot. Fruit spurs are short branches that produce the flowers and fruit on most trees. Water sprouts are vigorous vertical shoots that emerge from a tree's trunk or branches. They rarely produce fruit. The branch collar is the enlarged woody tissue where the branch attaches to the trunk.
Tackle some pruning vocabulary. A leader is a dormant, upright stem that usually becomes the main trunk in a tree trained to a central leader or modified central leader. “Open center” is a method of training in which three to five primary scaffold branches are developed low in the tree and the center of the tree is kept open. A thinning cut—removing a branch or cutting it back to a lateral branch—improves light penetration. Thinning, in contrast, is selective pruning done to improve branch spacing, direct growth, eliminate weak or defective branches and reduce the end weight of branches.
Assemble the right tools. Bypass hand pruners and loppers do essentially the same job but on different-size branches. A pruning saw is handy for removing larger limbs. Wearing gloves and personal protection equipment such as safety glasses is good practice.
Keep tools clean, oiled and sharp. If the tree is diseased, sanitize tools between cuts to keep the condition from spreading.
Allow plenty of time for pruning. Gather your tools and sanitizer. Now take a long look at the tree. Are there any dead or broken branches, crossing limbs or vertical water sprouts? Does the tree seem lopsided? Begin at the back of the tree or near the bottom to get a feel for the process.
Work from the inside out. Never leave a stub. When heading, cut back to an out-facing bud. When thinning, cut outside the branch collar and don't seal or paint the cut. Downward bending branches eventually lose vigor and stop producing fruit. Cut off the downward-hanging part.
Learn where your tree produces its fruit. Apples and pears bear differently than peaches and nectarines.
Do most of the pruning in the top of the tree so the lower branches are exposed to sunlight. Sun-exposed wood remains fruitful and produces the largest fruit. Shaded branches eventually stop fruiting and will never produce again without drastic topping. Balance is the key, and practice helps you get it right.
Take time to inform yourself, and you can readily manage your own fruit trees, relying on the research and recommendations of the University of California Cooperative Extension.
Workshop: SORRY The “Fruit Tree Pruning and Grafting” on Saturday, January 21, 2017 is full please see our website calendar for other workshops at http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa
There will be another Fruit Tree Workshop covering "10 Thing to Know about Fruit Trees" held in Yountville on Sunday, February 12, 2017, 1-3 pm. Contact Yountville Recreation, Adult Programs for details.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
By Pat Hitchcock, U. C. Master Gardener of Napa County
This winter seems to be a promising one; it's raining regularly. But along with the filling reservoirs and green hills come a multitude of weeds.
University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources publishes “Weed Pest Identification and Monitoring Cards” (Publication 3541) that identify nearly 50 different broadleaf and grassy weeds common in California. The cards have pictures of the plants at different stages of growth, as well as information on how they spread, where they grow and how to control them. Alas, most of them grow well on my property.
Weeds can't grow without water. Once the rains begin, they sprout from seeds or emerge from their dry-season dormancy. I was curious as to where they originated and why so many thrive here, so I began researching. It is daunting to discover that the weeds in my backyard come from all over the world.
Take dandelions (Taraxacum officinale). There are native American versions, but the more widespread dandelion was imported from Europe as an edible and medicinal plant. Today, most of us consider it a weed, although some people still enjoy it as a cooked green or salad.
Another common edible weed is purslane (Portulaca oleracea), a succulent summer annual with small yellow flowers. Purslane has been eaten throughout Europe, Asia and the Middle East since prehistoric times, but when it arrived in the New World is unclear. It makes a lemony addition to salads.
Several annual grasses thrive in Napa Valley winters, including Italian ryegrass (Lolum multiflorum), wild oat (Avena fatua) and ripgut brome (Bromus diandrus). These appear to have originated in the temperate regions of Europe but are widespread in our grasslands, parks and farmland. Besides taking over cultivated soil and crowding out garden plants, some have troublesome seeds that catch on pet fur or clothing and work their way into flesh. Pet owners know what misery these so-called “foxtails” can cause dogs and cats.
One of the most persistent weeds in my garden is field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis). This perennial plant originated in Europe and Asia and most likely arrived with crop seeds in the 1700s. It quickly became invasive. Roots can grow as deep as 10 feet and prefer moist, fertile soil. That pretty much describes my vegetable beds; no wonder I am constantly pulling and digging this plant out.
Redstem fillaree (Erodium cicutarium) is a plant I loved as a child. I liked to pick off the drying seed head and watch it coil when separated from its flower. Now, as a gardener, I find its ability to stick to clothing, especially socks, truly annoying. Native to the Mediterranean basin, this plant is edible, but the leaves are best eaten young.
Mustard (Sinapsis arvensis) is another weed originating in the Mediterranean basin. Legend has it that the Spanish padres deliberately sowed mustard along El Camino Real to mark the way. More likely, this plant arrived in North America accidentally like so many others.
Wild radish (Raphanus raphanistrum) is related to mustard.Native to Asia, it has spread all over the world. According to the weed I.D. cards, it is similar to Raphanus sativus, the common radish, and hybridizes easily with it. Both have four-petal flowers that may be white, yellow or pale purplish-pink. They bloom in early spring and continue as late as July, producing a lot of seeds over several months. Seeds can remain viable in the soil for 30 years, so preventing seed production is one key to controlling the weed.
Redroot pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus) is another apparently edible weed in our region. It is native to the tropical Americas but has naturalized all over the world. An annual plant, it spreads by seed that can live up to 40 years.
Prickly lettuce (Lactuca serriola) is an unattractive plant with prickly leaves and stems and bitter sap. Who would guess that it is the nearest wild relative of our common garden lettuces? It appears to have originated in Europe, Asia and North Africa, and ancient Greeks and Egyptians used it.
Some say that a weed is any plant in the wrong place. The weeds I researched thrive all over the world due to their ability to out-compete other plants for water, sunlight and nutrients. Controlling weeds is important both in cultivated gardens like my vegetable patch and in natural areas where they can crowd out native plants.
As the I.D. cards suggest, the best way to control most weeds is by manually removing them before they can bloom and produce seed. Another word for that is weeding. Winter is a good time to get out there and enjoy, I mean control, your weeds.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will hold a workshop on “Fruit Tree Pruning and Grafting” on Saturday, January 21, from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., at the University of California Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. The dormant season is the best time to prune your deciduous fruit trees to increase vigor. Join the Master Gardeners fruit-tree team for this workshop showing techniques to develop healthy and productive fruit trees. A local expert grafter will give a grafting demonstration. The afternoon field trip offers home gardeners the opportunity for a hands-on experience. Dress for seasonal outdoor weather and bring your pruners. Online registration (credit card only); Mail-in registration (check only or drop off cash payment)
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
- Author: Gayle Nelson
Article by Iris Craig, UC Master Gardener of Napa County, Class of 2016.
Napa has a well-kept secret: the demonstration garden at Connolly Ranch maintained by the U.C. Master Gardeners of Napa County. Master Gardener volunteers are there almost every Thursday morning pulling weeds, trimming plants and caring for the succulent and container gardens. The camaraderie among the volunteer gardeners and Connolly Ranch staff is delightful and keeps us coming back.
This is a teaching garden, designed to showcase research-based gardening practices and provide a place for the public to learn. The Napa County Master Gardeners inspired by similar gardens in Fresno County and Santa Clara County, began looking for a suitable site in 2000. It needed to be of adequate size with water, parking and accessibility, and of course it had to be affordable.
At the time, Connolly Ranch was being managed by the Land Trust of Napa County. Connolly Ranch and Master Gardeners have a similar mission, focused on education and connecting local people to the environment. Master Gardeners focus on adult gardeners' education, while Connolly Ranch aims to connect kids and their families to nature. We were offered a sloping site in the Ranch adjacent to the garden area.
In the summer of 2002, we began preparing the site for the future demonstration garden. Cleanup was the first task: hand-pulling weeds and hauling away years of accumulated debris. A tractor leveled the site and then created terraces. Master Gardener volunteers built a retaining wall and raised beds. We later added a shaded teaching and meeting location and a kiosk for posting information about the garden and upcoming events.
Master Gardeners and local businesses, including Van Winden's Garden Center in Napa and Mid City Nursery in American Canyon, donated plants and trees. A non-working fountain was repurposed as a succulent garden, and old tires were made into planters.
With enthusiasm, creativity and hard work, Master Gardeners made the many improvements that you see today. We constructed two storage sheds and a covered patio with benches and tables as well as a bulletin board built with the help of some Eagle Scouts.
We have designed and planted a bird, bee and hummingbird garden; a fire-wise garden; a succulent garden; a butterfly garden; an herb garden; a Mediterranean garden; and seasonal and container vegetable gardens. There are espaliered fruit trees and a rose garden. The roses are trained high to foil deer.
Each season, volunteers conduct field tests of vegetables and flowers to determine which varieties grow best in Napa County. Their progress is documented and made available through the Master Gardeners of Napa County website and publications. Last year, we planted corn, squash and beans by the Iroquois method. The Iroquois determined that this trio, which they called “the three sisters,” helped each other thrive. The beans feed the soil and climb up the corn stalks, while the large squash leaves shade the ground and keep weeds under control. Produce from the garden is donated to the Napa Food Bank.
The demonstration garden provides training for Master Gardeners on topics such as how to build and maintain a composting worm bin, how to espalier fruit trees and how to identify weeds. The Master Gardeners are often on hand during public events at Connolly Ranch to answer questions about gardening and provide educational garden activities for the whole family.
Master Gardeners volunteer more than 900 hours yearly in their garden to keep the it looking great and to educate the public.
The demonstration garden as part of Connolly Ranch is open to the public on the first Wednesday of every month and for special Connolly Ranch events throughout the year. See the Connolly Ranch website for details on days and times at http://connollyranch.org Connolly Ranch is located at 3141 Browns Valley Road in Napa. The parking access is off Thompson Ave. To get the Master Gardener Demonstration Garden inside the Ranch, from the parking lot walk past the greenhouse, the Beckstoffer chicken house and the big barn all on your left. Then enter the garden gate to the children's garden area and veer to the left down the path. You will see the entrance to the Master Gardener Demonstration Garden area.
Right before you enter, look to the right to see a California native plant garden dedicated to one of our members, and the hillside of white Matilija poppies, take a deep breath and enjoy the scents, then walk through the gate to our little Eden.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Rose Pruning” on Saturday, January 7, from 10 a.m. to 12 noon, at University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Certified Rosarian Lynne Andresen and other Master Gardener rose enthusiasts will demonstrate and explain proper pruning techniques and review rose types, common rose disorders and routine maintenance. Online registration (credit card only); Mail-in registration (check only or drop off cash payment).
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
They have been waiting patiently, and now their time has come. Creatures that love the wet weather are finally able to come out and do what they do best: make you miserable.
For many Napa Valley gardeners, this time of year can be frustrating. We have been watching our plants prosper under relatively consistent conditions for months, then the weather shifts. It starts to rain, and if we're lucky, it rains a lot.
The wet weather is a game-changer. Having grown up in the damp Pacific Northwest, I know this game well. Particularly familiar to me is the battle against mold, mildew and other fungi.
These plagues seem to come from nowhere and not reveal their presence until they are such a problem as to make you question your commitment to gardening. Only the truly devoted (or crazy) will find themselves scraping white, stringy fungus from a clogged planter box on a dark and rainy afternoon.
However, there are steps you can take to minimize these winter challenges.
If you have plants in containers, check the drainage. A container that was perfect a few weeks ago may now be draining too slowly. It is disheartening to see a formerly healthy plant succumb to root rot from standing water. Remove any debris that may be preventing drainage, or move the container to a location shielded from the rain.
Inspect your irrigation system and be sure you are not overwatering. Watering schedules probably need to be adjusted to avoid flooding the lawn.
Plants suffering from overwatering can look deceptively similar to those suffering from under-watering. I have made this mistake before and spent a good deal of time angry with myself for drowning an already saturated plant. Investigate the cause of the damage you see before applying a remedy.
Do a detailed inspection of landscape plants, especially deciduous trees and shrubs. The lack of foliage will make any pests and damage much easier to locate and identify.
Some pests, such as scale, will soon be in their dormant, over-wintering, phase. During this stage they are more vulnerable to applications of horticultural oil. They are not breeding either, so you need not worry about missing their offspring when you spray.
Many plants have well-known pests, and an experienced gardener will recognize the culprit from the damage. The University of California's Integrated Pest Management website (http://ipm.ucanr.edu/) is a useful resource. You can enter the name of a plant and see a list of possible pests and diseases, often with photos. Should you see damage that you can't identify, take a photo and email it to the Master Gardener Help Desk (information below). You can also bring the damaged plant parts to the Help Desk and a Master Gardener will help you identify and manage the problem.
At this time of year, many people have unwanted visitors in their homes, and I don't mean the in-laws. The best way to manage rodents and ants in your home is to deny them access. Inspect the exterior of your home for possible entry points that may have developed over the summer.
Just because you haven't had problems in recent months does not guarantee future security. A small hole that pests ignored while they were comfortable outside can quickly become a superhighway during cold and wet weather. Fill holes with wire mesh or other strong materials that pests cannot chew or dig through.
If you are unable to seal a hole used by small insects, try blocking them with a line of diatomaceous earth. A powder made of ground silica, this product is safe for use around the home and has a high success rate. When it comes to your in-laws, however, I have no advice. You will have to figure that out for yourself.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Rose Pruning” on Saturday, January 7, from 10 a.m. to noon, at University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Certified rosarian Lynne Andresen and other Master Gardener rose enthusiasts will demonstrate and explain proper pruning techniques and review rose types, common rose disorders and routine maintenance. Online registration (credit card only); Mail-in registration (check only or drop off cash payment).
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
What do the blue chicory flowers blooming in meadows and vineyards, the pansies in your window box and the honey-scented blossoms on your lemon tree have in common? You can eat them.
A stroll around your winter garden, nearby vineyard or neighborhood might reveal surprising edible flowers to cheer, nourish, flavor and decorate winter plates.
But just because blossoms are pretty does not mean you can eat them. Some flowers are poisonous. Identify any flowers you plan to eat or serve and make sure no sprays or chemicals have been used on them.
By the time you read this, nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) may be gone, but in early December the blossoms in navel-orange, taxi-yellow and vermillion blossoms are still flourishing at the edges of my garden. The honey-tinged heat and color of nasturtium blossoms provide contrast in citrus salads and in salads with deep-green arugula or miners' lettuce. Both the petals and the leaves have a peppery flavor, making a milder garnish for guests who don't like spice.
Calendulas (Calendula officinalis) look like bright, full daisies in a palette of pale yellow, apricot and bright orange. They grow through most of our Napa Valley winters. Calendula is an annual and generously self-sows every year, so leave a flower or two to go to seed. After the first rains, expanding circles of little calendula seedlings are already greening up the areas in my garden where calendulas grew last year. In a few months, their neon-orange flowers will be the first to bloom in profusion as winter turns to spring.
Calendula petals may be sprinkled in salads, ice cream, soups or risotto. If you have several plants to choose from, taste to see which you prefer.
All members of the viola family are edible and bloom bravely through all but the iciest weather. Fresh-faced pansies, fragrant violets (Violata odorata) and blue and yellow Johnny-jump-ups don't just provide vivid color for garden beds and pots. They also contribute blossoms for confetti-colored butter logs to melt on biscuits. Or arrange them in two-dimensional bouquets to decorate special desserts.
With blue or white star-shaped blossoms, borage (Borago officinalis) can grow in shady spots. Its cucumber-flavored blossoms can be frozen in ice cubes or used to garnish salads or sorbet.
Herb blossoms are all edible, so consider using the delicate white flowers on lemon verbena and perky chives as well as peach, pear, plum and almond blossoms.
Always check to make sure flowers are edible. While you might think fragrant sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus) blossoms should be edible, they are not. This kind of sweet pea is poisonous and should be eaten with your eyes only.
On the other hand, sugar snap peas, shelling peasand other edible peas have blossoms and shoots that can be safely consumed. Eating pea blossoms is for those who spurn delayed gratification and live for the moment, or for those who do not like to eat their peas. On the other hand, gardeners who hope to ultimately harvest peas will have to forgo all but the first blossoms.
Citrus blossoms are edible, but taste them to make sure you like the flavor. Some are bitter. As a general rule, the sweeter the fragrance, the sweeter the flavor. Use blossoms to infuse cream for ice cream or whipped cream or use to scent lemonade.
All types of dianthus are edible, including ‘Sweet William' blossoms, carnations and pinks. Ranging in color from pure white to almost black, dianthus blossoms give artistic cooks many beautiful colors to choose from. Taste the flowers and remove the bottom white part of the petal if it seems bitter. Steep in syrups or mix into butters. Frost cakes, then lay a stencil over the cake and sprinkle shredded flower petals to fill the outline.
Edible flowers can expand your kitchen choices. Check this site https://whatscookingamerica.net/EdibleFlowers/EdibleFlowersMain.htm for a list of edible flowers. Tulips, begonias,chrysanthemums and gladiolas can make surprising contributions your meals. Learn which flowers are safe to eat and teach your children well.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Rose Pruning” on Saturday, January 7, from 10 a.m. to noon, at University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Certified rosarian Lynne Andresen and other Master Gardener rose enthusiasts will demonstrate and explain proper pruning techniques and review rose types, common rose disorders and routine maintenance. Online registration (credit card only); Mail-in registration (check only or drop off cash payment).
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
