[Ed note:  Pictures of their favorite flowers and the associated butterflies are posted in the order listed by Penny Pawl.)

This has been a beautiful, bountiful year for butterflies in my garden. I have been hand-raising butterflies for many years now. It's my effort towards giving them a better chance at life.  

Butterflies start in March when the flowers and vines begin to put out flowers and leaves. The Dutchman's pipevine (Aristolochia macrophylla ) puts out its little pipes in March. These blooms are pollinated by gnats. The leaves start to grow about the same time, and the Pipevine Swallowtailbutterflies are programmed to leave their pupae at this time. Most of them have been waiting almost a year to complete metamorphosis and are happy to be flying in the sun, gathering nectar from flowers and laying eggs.  

When I see a female laying eggs, I search through the vine and usually find eight to ten little golden eggs in a cluster. Before a predator can get to them, I take the eggs in the house and put them in a small container. The container keeps them and the leaves from drying up. In less than a week, the tiny caterpillars are born. At that point, I know that I am committed for five weeks before they will make a pupa.  

Once I commit to raising them, I clean their containers daily and make sure they have plenty of pipeline leaves, their preferred food. Occasionally I run out of leaves from my vine, but I know where another vine is and I will 'borrow' some of its leaves.

Monarch butterflies make their first flight through Napa Valley in April and May, heading north. To be ready for them, I grow a number of types of milkweed (Asclepias) that bloom at different times in spring and summer. The native milkweed (Asclepias speciosa) is usually growing when the Monarchs pass through. They may lay eggs if the plant has tender young leaves.

This past spring I gathered about 20 Monarch eggs. They are small, white and found on the underside of milkweed leaves. When I gather the eggs, I take a piece of leaf with me so when the eggs hatch they have some food. Right now the butterflies are ignoring Asclepias speciosa as the leaves are old. Instead they are laying their eggs on narrow-leaf milkweed (Asclepias fascicularis). I have lost count of the number of Monarchs I have raised in my house this year, but it must be around 50.

I was gone for a couple of weeks in June when another group of Monarchs came through the garden. Every milkweed variety that I grow had been munched. I found caterpillars of various sizes and took them inside to complete their growth. Monarchs take less than three weeks to mature and become a pupa. They will emerge from the pupa in another two weeks. Since they are hatching in my yard and I have plenty of flowers, they stay a while and lay more eggs.

Anise Swallowtail Butterflies feed on fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) and members of the parsley and carrot family. My fennel had struggled for years as gophers love it, too. I finally put the plant in a large pot to protect the roots and sunk the pot in the ground. The roots grow out the holes in the pot and the main plant is saved. This seems to work, and I have found tiny caterpillars on the fennel. So far this year, I have more than 20 that are either in pupae or eating fennel like there is no tomorrow.

All three of these members of the Swallowtail family taste bad to birds. However, that does not stop spiders, wasps and native bugs from dining on them. Lizards also like them. A few years ago, small parasitic flies laid eggs in one group of Anise Swallowtails I was raising. This killed the caterpillars when the eggs hatched.  

These butterflies live only six to eight weeks. During that time they will lay 500 to 600 eggs. Not all the eggs are fertile; some are defective and the newborns die before they mature. But by hand-raising them, I am giving more butterflies a chance to have their flying days. In nature, only a small percentage make the transition.

When I started raising the Pipevine Swallowtail, I saw only a few, but now many visit my vine all summer long. Last year, in late September, two large Pipevine caterpillars were still feeding on the vine.

You don't have to hand-raise butterflies as I do, but you can help them survive by planting nectar plants. Grow native Pipevine, native milkweeds and other plants that butterflies need to lay eggs and feed. Never use pesticides; butterflies are not immune.

Gardening for Butterflies is an excellent resource. You'll also find a lot of good information on the life cycle of butterflies online.

Tree Walk: Join U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County for a free guided tree walk through Fuller Park in Napa on Monday, September 12, from 10 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. Registration is recommended as space is limited. Meet at Fuller Park, corner of Jefferson and Oak Streets. Online registration or call 707-253-4221. Trees to Know in Napa Valley will be available for $15. Cash or check payable to UC Regents. Sorry, we are unable to process credit cards.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.

You live in beautiful Napa Valley surrounded by wineries and vineyards. Some of your friends and neighbors have a few grapevines or a small vineyard and make a little bit of wine each year with a label that declares it's their wine from their vineyard.

You're smitten. You have a little room in the backyard and think it would be a perfect location for a few dozen or maybe a few hundred grapevines.

When my wife and I bought our home in 1998, it was surrounded by an acre or so of weeds. Nothing of interest had grown there since a prune orchard had been ripped out years before. We were just a few years removed from living in Chicago so grape growing was not something we knew anything about, but we loved wine and had delusions of viticultural grandeur.

Our journey began at a fundraiser auction to which someone had donated everything needed to plant a 200-vine vineyard. We bid but didn't win. Shortly afterward, I told a new friend, a vineyard manager, about the auction lot we didn't win. Don't worry, he said. I can plant a vineyard for you.

Our new friend visited our property to get a feel for what we could plant. Visions of growing grapes and being a home winemaker danced in my head. To make a barrel of wine, we would need about 250 vines. No problem; we had plenty of room. In fact, we had enough room to plant 1,000 vines and sell excess grapes to other home winemakers.

What about planting our septic field? No problem. Now we could plant 1,400 vines. We decided to move full speed ahead.

What was wrong with this decision? Lots. First, we had no idea how much it would cost to plant 1,400 grapevines. A little research indicated it might be $20 to $25 per vine. A little pricey but probably no more expensive than landscaping.

Second, I knew nothing about growing grapes so we would need someone to take care of the vineyard initially. Again, we had no idea of the labor cost or the maintenance time involved. Third, home winemakers are cheap. They do not pay as much for grapes as wineries do, if they pay anything at all. Plus, we didn't even know any home winemakers.

Last but not least, I had no idea how to make wine nor did I own winemaking equipment or know how much it would cost.

Our vineyard was planted in 2002. By 2005, we had enough of a harvest to make two barrels of wine. The wine was quite good. In fact, we still have a few cases left and it continues to be enjoyable. So far, this is the only wine we had made from our grapes.

In 2006, we were able to recruit friends who had winemaking equipment or knowledge. Truly, it takes a village. Although we enjoyed the winemaking experience, we determined that it was not something we wanted to do regularly. We found it was easier to give a winemaker a half-ton of grapes and get a few cases of wine in return.

Planting a vineyard was a great learning experience, to say the least. A few of the lessons: It cost much more than anticipated. (I could have been driving a Porsche for the last 14 years.) Grenache won't ripen in Carneros. Our well can't pump enough water to adequately irrigate the vineyard so we now use city water for irrigation.

Like other plants, grapevines die for no apparent reason and must be replaced. Birds like ripe grapes, requiring netting every year. Mother Nature is inconsistent. Some years we harvest in early October, but most years it's early November when that phenomenon called rain has started and we have to worry about moldy grapes. Vineyard end posts will topple in an earthquake.

The moral of the story is: know what you're doing before you do it. Know how much it costs to plant grapevines. Join a winemaking group before you plant to make sure you really want to be a home winemaker. Plant varietals that grow well in your area. Ask questions. The Master Gardeners have a resource group called the Integrated Grape Team that can help you with your decision making.

I have no regrets about planting a vineyard, but if there is a next time, I hope I take off the rose-colored glasses first.

Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will present a workshop on “Home Vineyards: Part Two” on Saturday, August 20, from 9:30 a.m. to 11: 30 a.m. followed by a field trip from 12:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. Location is 1107 State Lane in Yountville. Learn what to do and what to look for and how to plan for harvest and crush in the vineyard, testing the must, managing the vines after crush, and preparing for winter and the next growing season.  A special team of home vineyard Master Gardeners will present this workshop and answer your individual questions.On-line registration (credit card only) Mail-in/Walk-in registration (cash or check only)

Tree Walk: Join U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County for a free guided tree walk through Fuller Park in Napa on Monday, September 12, from 10 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. Registration is recommended as space is limited. Meet at Fuller Park, corner of Jefferson and Oak Streets. Online registration or call 707-253-4221. Trees to Know in Napa Valley will be available for $15. Cash or check payable to UC Regents. Sorry, we are unable to process credit cards.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.

All too soon, it seems, the seasons pass by. While we are harvesting summer peaches, we need to start planning for the fall. Fortunately, Napa Valley's mild Mediterranean climate gives us some flexibility in planting dates. Nevertheless, planning now for cool-season crops will allow you to maximize limited space, invigorate your soil and try new vegetable varieties.

Whether you garden in a full backyard, a few raised beds or just some pots on the patio, you can still experiment with a variety of cool-season crops such as carrots, radishes, spinach, kohlrabi and cabbages.

Cool-season vegetables like broccoli and kale thrive when the average daytime temperature is 55°F to 75^o F. Warm-season vegetables—think tomatoes, peppers and eggplants—prefer daytime temperatures from 65°F to 95^oF. Pound for pound, we get more food from cool-season vegetables because we eat the vegetative part and not just the fruit. A cabbage, for example, is entirely edible, whereas we eat only the fruit of the pepper plant.

And like the gardener who enjoys the slower pace that cooler weather brings, many pests take a break as well. Some go dormant or simply reach the end of that season's generation. This slowdown can make it easier to garden without pesticides when the weather cools.

The workload may be less intense in fall and winter, but you can still be an active gardener. Growing legumes such as fava beans and peas will not only provide delicious fare for your table but also replenish your soil with precious nitrogen and other nutrients.

By keeping your beds planted, you provide habitat for beneficial insects, soil micro-organisms and earthworms. Any leftover plant material from summer, like tomato vines, can be composted and returned to the soil to nurture future crops.

When it comes to cool-season growing, the options are vast. Some fast-growing root vegetables, such as carrots and radishes, can be closely planted. In warm soil, they mature quickly so you can inter-plant with vegetables that grow above ground, such as lettuces, to maximize space. By picking only the outer leaves of lettuces rather than uprooting the entire plant, you can extend the harvest considerably. Peas are another great fall crop, and they can utilize vertical space—a boon for gardeners with limited square footage.

Seed companies such as Johnny's Selected Seeds, Territorial Seed Company and John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds offer almost limitless choices for the fall and winter garden. In a couple of weeks, local nurseries will have good selections of vegetable seedlings for late-summer planting.

Remember, too, many cool-season vegetables are not only edible but stunningly beautiful. Kale, mustard and chard come in striking colors that can add eye appeal to a patio, walkway or planting bed.

Of course, even vegetables that thrive in cooler weather need sunlight, water, appropriate soil conditions and nutrients. You can prepare yourself for success at the upcoming Master Gardener workshop on cool-season vegetables (details follow) and plan now to ensure a healthy and abundant harvest this winter.

Workshop: The U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Growing Fall and Winter Vegetables” on Saturday, August 13, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at the University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Discover the joy of harvesting vegetables from your own garden in fall, winter and early spring. Topics will include timing, watering, fertilizing, managing pests and harvesting. On-line registration (credit card only). Mail-in/Walk-in registration (cash or check only). 

Tree Walk: Join U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County for a free guided tree walk through Fuller Park in Napa on Monday, August 8, from 10 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. Registration is recommended as space is limited. Meet at Fuller Park, corner of Jefferson and Oak Streets. Online registration or call 707-253-4221. Trees to Know in Napa Valley will be available for $15. Cash or check payable to UC Regents. Sorry, we are unable to process credit cards.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.

Recently I went into my vegetable garden to visit the squash bees. They come out every year at this time when plants in the Cucurbitaceae family bloom. Cucumbers, melons, squash and pumpkins are just a few of the cucurbits they visit to gather pollen. The males just hang around to breed so that the females can build a nest and lay eggs.  

Squash bees are among the 1,600 bees native to California and just one of the many types of native bees that visit my garden. The female builds her nest in the ground so be sure to leave some ground bare of mulch or other coverings.

Napa County Master Gardeners began studying bees when reports emerged of the declining honeybee population. We learned that some bees like to nest in holes in wood, so several of us built nests out of wood. I made several. The one I made from a piece of log with a little roof on it has done the best. It's a nest for mason bees.

I knew the bees were there, but I didn't actually see any until I took the nest to an event for schoolkids at the Napa County Fairground. A bee came out, hung around for a while and then flew away. This was in March when the fruit trees were starting to bloom. About 30 holes were filled in the nest log, each with several bee eggs. A male always hatches first; females follow.

I watched the nest log a lot over the next few weeks. The bees had hardly emerged when they began building new nests. Now, once again, 30 holes are filled and the eggs should hatch next spring.

Bumblebees have been present in my garden for several years. They love my Salvia macrophylla ‘Hot Lips', which is native to Mexico. Sometimes the plant is covered with bees, mostly bumblebees.

Last spring I learned about the teddy bear bee (Xylocopa varipuncta), a common name for the male Valley carpenter bee. I was working in my garden when a big yellow bee approached me and buzzed slowly back and forth in front of me. He was an attractive bee, so I went inside to research him and identify who was visiting me. I learned that the males have no stinger and can be an inch long. He was definitely the biggest bee I have ever seen.

If you want to draw these bees to your garden, plant California native plants. The native bees and plants developed together. Honeybees were imported to this country because they produce honey. However, they have had many health problems over the past years.

Scientists are studying how native bees might play a bigger role in pollinating crops. About 100 food crops need pollination annually to produce fruit.

I even find bees in my garden in winter. I have a clematis that blooms in December and January. When I go out in the cool of the day, I find bees sleeping in the blooms. I never linger long enough to identify which type of bees they are, but I like knowing they are still flying.

Among the other native bees are digger bees and sweat bees. Some native bees are as tiny as gnats. Seventy percent of bees nest in the ground and the rest in wood holes.

At one time, I had many paper wasps building nests in my garden. They were docile around me, and they did gather insects for their nests. One winter a queen wasp overwintered on a door in my shed. I would go in periodically to check on her. She had many small wasps gathered around her, but their numbers kept declining so I often wondered if she ate them to get her through the winter. Eventually she was the only one left in the shed.

If you would like to learn more about native bees, you can find many resources online.  California Bees and Blooms:  A Guide for Gardeners and Naturalists by Gordon W. Frankie, Robbin W. Thorp, Rollin E. Coville, and Barbara Ertter is an excellent reference.  You can also consult www.helpabee.org.

Tree Walk: Join U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County for a free guided tree walk through Fuller Park in Napa on Monday, August 8, from 10 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. Registration is recommended as space is limited. Meet at Fuller Park, corner of Jefferson and Oak Streets. Online registration or call 707-253-4221. Trees to Know in Napa Valley will be available for $15. Cash or check payable to UC Regents. Sorry, we are unable to process credit cards.

Workshop: The U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Growing Fall and Winter Vegetables” on Saturday, August 13, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at the University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Discover the joy of harvesting vegetables from your own garden in fall, winter and early spring. Topics will include timing, watering, fertilizing, managing pests and harvesting. On-line registration (credit card only). Mail-in/Walk-in registration (cash or check only). 

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.