The allure of stalking game wasn't something I understood until I spent a perfect day planting seedlings only to discover the next morning that said seedlings had disappeared. In cartoons, you have probably seen red-faced people with steam coming out of their ears. That was me.
I am now on a mission. I hunt the information highway for ammunition and stalk game in my yard. I now understand the thrill of the hunt. Learning how to vanquish a certain pest and implementing the technique in my garden makes my day.
Early on I decided that I was going to avoid chemical warfare. So I comb the library and the Internet and question acquaintances and sometimes complete strangers for information and success stories. Here is my hit list:
Earwigs are one common problem in my garden. I was surprised to learn that they are considered somewhat beneficial as they eat soft-bodied insects and their eggs. I chose to control them because they damage seedlings and soft fruit.
Earwigs like moist, dense undergrowth and debris, so control them by installing a drip system and cleaning up detritus. Check plant support stakes. If they are hollow, replace them. Earwigs hide inside hollow stakes during the day.
Trap earwigs with rolled-up newspaper, short pieces of hose or toilet paper rolls. Place your choice of traps near the affected area at dusk. In the morning, collect traps and shake them out over a bowl of soapy water.
Another tactic is to bury a tuna or cat-food tin up to the rim. Add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil and a small amount of bacon grease or fish oil as an attractant. Check daily and dump out any dead insects; refill with oil and replace the trap. After a week of diligence, you should notice a marked decrease in population. Then just stay on top of it. If it looks like earwigs are returning, repeat the process.
Hornworms are a huge pest, literally. One of my friends said that the first time she saw one, she screamed so loud that her husband came running. The best way to deal with these meaty monsters is to don garden gloves and either hand-pick them or, as my friend does, use kitchen tongs. If you have chickens or other fowl, you will make their day by flinging this rotund pest into their area.
There are not many plants that aphids don't like. However, they rarely kill plants, and you can usually wash them off with water or squish them. Interestingly, they tend to avoid plants that have their squashed brethren on them.
To control aphids, I make a 10 percent blend of non-detergent liquid dish soap and water and spray it directly on the plant. Wherever you find aphids, you will likely find ants. Get rid of the ants and the aphids have no protection from predators. When aphid populations climb, natural enemies like lady beetles and lacewings descend to feed on them.
According to lore, a Frenchman introduced snails to California during the Gold Rush—a food crop that went horribly wrong. Their overwhelming number today substantiates my belief that messing with Mother Nature has consequences. Snail presence in the garden is unmistakable because of the slimy trails they leave behind. Remove moist environments and clean up debris to control them. In my experience, the best traps are 12”x12” boards randomly laid around the yard. I go outside early in the morning, turn each board over and smash the attached snails. Keep at it for a week and you will prevail; then you just need to monitor for signs of their return.
Beneficial insects play a role, too. My kids and I purchased lady beetles one year and enjoyed the experience. Purchase lady beetles that have been kept under refrigeration and release them at dusk for best results.
The University of California's IPM web site (http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/) has extensive information on pest control. I have had great success implementing this research in my garden, and I believe that you, too, will reap the rewards.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
There have been many times that I have considered purchasing a machete. What better way to eradicate gardening blunders, and in such a flamboyant manner? I make many of my mistakes through ignorance and often from just not reading instructions.
I own two plants that might not be considered invasive plants, but they definitely have invaded my garden and most assuredly are mistakes. They are Potentilla and morning glory.
More than 20 years ago, when I was just starting out in the gardening game, I was looking to do something in my side yard. The space runs the full length of the house—about 45 feet—and is about 7 feet wide. I was looking for an easy fix that required little or no maintenance but would be pleasant to look at.
My husband and I were in the midst of raising three kids and working 40 hours a week, after all. Being an inexperienced gardener, I did not realize that the traits I sought are rarely found together.My research turned up a groundcover called Potentilla. With its deep green ground-hugging foliage, cute yellow flowers and low water requirements, what's not to love? I ordered several flats and proceeded to plant the Potentilla in the side yard.
Had I done more research and asked around, I would have found out Potentilla's true nature and perhaps decided against it. I can only imagine that the person responsible for naming this plant did so with tongue in cheek. I mean, it is truly “potent.”Virtually impossible to assassinate.
Potentilla is now growing throughout my entire yard:popping up in the lawn, in all the garden beds, around the copping on the pool, everywhere. Every year it gets a rust fungus that is hard to eliminate. Part of each time segment I spend in the garden is dedicated to Potentilla patrol. I see no end in sight. It must be said, though, that the side yard looks great.
You would think that I would have learned my lesson and not committed a similar error again. In my defense, perhaps my head was so swollen with pride at my recent graduation from the University of California's Master Gardener program that I wasn't thinking clearly. When I received a congratulatory card with morning glory seeds enclosed, I lost my mind and planted them. This packet of seeds turned intothe gift that keeps on giving.“Big mistake” hardly describes the situation.
True, the morning glory flowers are fun and beautiful to look at. The phrase “a riot of color” comes to mind. They bloom in the morning, as their name suggests, and are largely closed by noon. A small seedling becomes avine that clambers up and over virtually any obstacle to create a carpet of color.
So what's the problem? First, because they are annuals, they die back in cold weather and go to seed. So now your landscape is festooned with yards of spent vines. I learned the hard way that you need to pull the vines down before they go to seed. If you wait until the vines are dry and the seeds are falling or ready to fall, pulling the vines down unleashes a shower of seeds.
The propagation potential is frightful enough, but to add insult to injury, the seeds are poisonous. Birds, normally nature's little vacuum cleaners, will not touch them. The seeds also endanger people and pets. The toxicity is mild to moderate but common effects include diarrhea, anemia, uncoordinated movements and liver failure, depending on how much was ingested.
So now I not only have to remove the vines but I practically have to use tweezers to pick up all the seeds. Any seeds that I miss will grow into a plant in the spring, repeating the entire cycle. Maybe morning glory is lovely in the wild.In my yard, not so much.
The moral to the story is, research a plant's characteristics and growth patterns before planting it. Ask at local nurseries, consult your neighbors and look online. The Napa County Master Gardeners staff a help desk to give advice and planting information. Check our website (address below). Avail yourself of these resources before you, too, find yourself on Potentilla patrol.
Tomato Sale and Education Event: Napa County Master Gardeners are hosting their third annual Tomato Sale on Saturday, April 18. Join us in the South Oxbow parking lot in Napa, 9 a.m. until sold out. We have a bountiful selection of strong, young plants: heirlooms, hybrids, cherry, paste and just plain good eating tomatoes of all sizes. Remember to bring your own box to safely transport your plants home. Click on the link above to read descriptions of the varieties for sale.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions
questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
Are you growing tomatoes this year? Even though I am cutting back on some planting this summer to conserve water, tomatoes will continue to have a starring role in my garden. Here are a few pointers to help ensure your tomato success.
First, don't rush to get those tomatoes in the ground. Wait until the danger of frost is past and the soil is sufficiently warm (at least 60°F). Prior to planting, be sure to “harden off” the plants by keeping them outside for about a week. Place them in a sheltered location initially, then gradually expose them to your garden's conditions. If frost threatens, bring the plants indoors.
If you are purchasing tomato plants, choose stocky seedlings with healthy green leaves. The plants should not be root bound. Evaluate possible locations before deciding where to plant. To prevent soil-borne diseases from getting established, practice crop rotation. Do not plant tomatoes or other members of the nightshade family (potatoes, eggplants and peppers) in the same location more than two years in a row. If you plant tomatoes in pots, use new potting mix. Choose a location with full sun.
Your plants will be more productive if given plenty of room to grow. If you are planting caged or staked tomato plants, space therows 30 to 42 inches apart, leaving 24 to 30 inches between plants. If the plants are not staked or caged, plant them farther apart. If you use pots, choose large ones.
Water the seedlings and the planting area a few hours before planting. Pinch off all but the top two sets of leaves, then bury the seedling deeply, so that only the leaves and a little stem are above ground. Avoid handling the stem as new roots will form along the buried portion. If the plants are in biodegradable pots, break up the pots slightly so the roots can easily find the soil. Bury the pots completely to avoid water wicking away from the roots. If the seedlings are in plastic pots, gently remove the plants and loosen the roots. Press the soil firmly around the plant and water thoroughly.
Most tomato plants benefit from some type of support. Cages or stakes keep the tomatoes off the ground, conserve garden space and make harvest easier. I prefer cages and use the collapsible type that I can store easily over the winter. Place cages around tomatoes soon after planting to avoid damaging the plants later. With most cages, it's a good idea to place two strong stakes on both sides to provide support when the plant becomes heavy with fruit. Check the ultimate height of the tomato variety to determine the height of the cage required. The openings in the cage should be large enough for you to reach in and harvest fruit.
Alternatively, you can stake tomato plants. Select stakes six feet long and one and one-half inches to two inches wide. Drive them one foot into the soil,four to six inches from the plant. As the plants grow, pull the stems toward the stakes and loosely tie them to the stakes at intervals of 10 to 12 inches. Use a flexible material such as gardener's tape or fabric strips. Prune to a few main stems to keep the plants from becoming too heavy.
Tomatoes need regular irrigation. Extreme variation in soil moisture can promote fruit cracking and blossom-end rot. Keep the area weeded to prevent competition for nutrients and water and to eliminate habitat for pests. Place a three- to four-inch layer of mulch over the soil to reduce weeds and conserve moisture.
Feed with nitrogen when the plants flower, then every four to six weeks, following label instructions. Water thoroughly after fertilizing.
Harvest when tomatoesdevelop their full color. If you're like me, you can hardly wait for that first delicious bite.
Tomato Plant Sale: Napa County Master Gardeners will hold their second annual “Tomato Plant Sale and Education Day” on Saturday, April 19, in the South Oxbow parking lot on First Street in Napa. The sale will be held from 9:00 a.m. until sold out. All the seedlings have been started from seed and grown by Napa County Master Gardeners. At least 50 varieties of heirloom and hybrid tomato plants will be available. Master Gardeners will staff information tables on tomato support structures, common tomato pests and diseases, composting, good bug/bad bug displays and a mobile help desk. For a list of available tomato varieties, visit http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa or call the Help Desk (hours below).
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
Napa County Master Gardeners welcome the public to visit their demonstration garden at Connolly Ranch on Thursdays, from 10:00 a.m. until noon, except the last Thursday of the month. Connolly Ranch is at 3141 Browns Valley Road at Thompson Avenue in Napa. Enter on Thompson.
There is nothing like the taste of home-grown tomatoes. If you have never grown them, you need to know a few things to ensure your success.
Most importantly, wait to plant until the danger of frost is past and the soil is sufficiently warm. I usually wait until May 1 to plant mine. Prior to planting, be sure to “harden off” the plants by placing them outside for about a week. Put them in a sheltered spot initially, and then gradually expose them to garden conditions. If frost threatens, bring the plants indoors.
Tomatoes need full sun. Choose stocky transplants six to eight inches tall with healthy, green leaves. The seedlings should not be root bound. Water the plants a few hours before planting, and water the planting area prior to planting.Set the plants in the soil so that all but the top two sets of leaves are below ground. Pinch off the lower leaves and avoid handling the stem. New roots will emerge from the buried stem.
If the plants are in biodegradable pots, break up the pots slightly so the roots can easily grow into the soil. Bury peat or paper pots completely to avoid water wicking away from the roots. If your seedlings are in plastic pots, gently remove the plants and loosen the roots. Press the soil firmly around the plant, then water thoroughly.
Tomato plants need plenty of room to grow. If planting in a pot, choose a large one. If you are planting in the ground or in raised beds, space plants 24 to 30 inches apart, assuming the tomatoes will be staked or caged. If the plants are not staked, the tomatoes will need to be farther apart.
Most tomatoes benefit from some type of support. Cages or stakes keep the tomatoes off the ground, allow maximum utilization of garden space, and make harvest easier. I prefer cages and use the collapsible type that I can store neatly over the winter. Place the cages around the tomatoes soon after planting to avoid damaging the plants. Insert two strong stakes to support the cage when the plant becomes heavy with fruit. Check the ultimate height of the tomato variety you are planting to determine the height of the cage required. The openings in the cage should be large enough for hand harvesting.
Some gardeners stake their tomato plants. For this method, select stakes six feet long and one and one-half to two inches wide. Drive them one foot into the soil approximately four to six inches from the plant. As the plants grow, pull the stems toward the stakes and loosely tie them to the stakes at intervals of 10 to 12 inches. Use strips of cloth or some other flexible material. Prune the tomato plants to a few main stems to keep the plants from becoming too heavy.
Tomatoes can also be planted along a fence or large trellis and trained upward as they grow.
Tomatoes need regular watering. They dislike extreme fluctuation in soil moisture, which promotes fruit cracking and blossom end rot. Keep the area weeded. Weeds harbor pests and compete with your tomatoes for nutrients and water. A three-to four-inch layer of mulch will discourage weeds and help retain soil moisture.
Healthy tomato transplants should not need fertilizing until the plants are flowering and fruit are forming. At that point, feed them with nitrogen every four to six weeks, following package instructions. Place the fertilizer around the growing plants in shallow grooves or on the soil surface. Scratch it in and water thoroughly.
For more advice on growing tomatoes, visit the Master Gardener Tomato Plant Sale and Education Day on April 20. You’ll find demonstrations on planting tomatoes, displays on supporting and pruning tomatoes, and information on preserving your harvest.
Tomato Plant Sale: Napa County Master Gardeners are hosting a tomato plant sale on Saturday, April 20, from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Choose from 44 varieties that grow well in Napa County. Come early for best selection. Tomato experts will be on hand to answer questions. Location: Oxbow Public Market, south parking lot, 644 First Street, Napa. Plan your purchases with this Quick Guide to Tomato Varieties.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners (http://cenapa.ucdavis.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions?