By Penny Pawl, U. C. Master Gardener of Napa County
Tis the season and possibly you are planning to decorate your home for the coming holidays. Take a stroll through your garden and look at all the beautiful plants growing there. Some of them might work well in a wreath for the holidays.
The plants mentioned below do well in wreaths, although some last without water longer than others. If you're unsure how plants will perform in a wreath, cut some and slowly dry them to see how they look after a week or two. Discard those that do not stay fresh-looking. European bay (Laurus nobilis) is a good choice, as are smoke bush (Cotinus coggygria), redwood (Sequoia sempervirens) and heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica) to name a few. The red winter leaves of nandina last well in a wreath.
You can also add the red berries of toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia), small pine cones or dried lavender. Craft stores and nurseries can supply other additions. Don't forget small ornaments. Online I saw an exercise “noodle,” or hoop, used as an ornament-only wreath and it was quite nice. The ornaments were wired and pushed into the noodle.
There are many different types of wreath bases. How you assemble the wreath depends on which base you choose. Some are easy while others require more time. You can either make or buy a grapevine wreath. If you make it, bake it a while at low heat to kill any bugs that might be in the grapevine. Also consider hay wreaths, assorted metal frames of different sizes or Styrofoam.
You will need a glue gun, wire, wire cutters and possibly scissors. Have equipment ready before you start to build your wreath. If your base is grapevines, hay or Styrofoam, you can poke the foliage in wherever you wish. With wire bases, you need to wire each bundle onto the wire frame. As you work around the frame, space foliage bundles at intervals that leave room for the decorative touches.
Decorate your wreath with dried fruits such as lemons, oranges and persimmons. Be sure to add ribbon. You can buy bows or make your own
I have used old wine corks to decorate a grapevine wreath. I glue the corks on with my glue gun and arrange them around the wreath. I add Champagne corks to the top if I have them and then fill in with real or artificial foliage, bows and ornaments. I also made a wreath out of succulents a couple of years ago. I bought a wire frame, fastened wire around it and stuffed it with well-soaked sphagnum moss. Then I cut off the succulents and pushed them into the moss. This wreath is a work in process. When I made it, I did not have many succulents on hand and so left space between the plants. It looks best if the succulents are close together. Eventually they will root and cover the frame.
Last but not least, save a piece of wire to make a hanger for your wreath. You can then hang it on your front door or in a window. It will last longer outside. A wreath of this type is not permanent. You will need to take it apart as the plants dry and die. Save your base so you can make a fresh one next year.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Creating Holiday Wreaths” on Sunday, December 11, from noon to 3 p.m., at the Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. Learn what plants in your garden could make good wreaths for decorating. Learn how to choose and prepare plant materials so they will look good for a long time. Learn tips and tricks for designing and making easy wreaths for the holidays or any time. Participants will create their own wreath to take home, made from locally collected plant materials. $20 for Yountville residents; $23 for non-residents. Register with Yountville Parks & Recreation or call 707-944-8712.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
‘Wonderful' is the pomegranate most of us pick up at the grocery store. Originally found in a bundle of cuttings from Florida, ‘Wonderful' has been propagated widely in California since the early 1900s. But the story of pomegranates (Punicagranatum) goes back much further.
Also called Chinese apples, pomegranates are one of the oldest documented edible fruits. They require long, hot summers and can survive under myriad conditions. For best fruit production in Napa Valley, plant pomegranates in a sunny location in ordinary soil with good drainage. For the first two years, water deeply every two to four weeks in dry weather to encourage root establishment and fruit production.
When pomegranate plants are about two feet high, select four or five of the healthiest-looking branches, preferably well-spaced, and cut them back to 12 inches.Remove the remaining growth and any shoots or suckers that appear above or below these chosen branches.
Pomegranate trees can be grown as dwarfs, but most reach 15 to 20 feet tall. Disciplined pruning can keep them tidy in smaller spaces.
The pomegranate produces fruit at the end of new growth. Judicious pruning annually for the first three years will produce bushy plants with abundant new growth each year.
With their shiny, dark leaves, bright orange flowers and dramatic red fruits, pomegranates make attractive, long-lived additions to the garden. Their ruby arils—the pulp-covered seeds—are beautiful in salads and make a refreshing juice. The fruit is also used commercially for making grenadine, the sweet red syrup in a Shirley Temple. Local birds appreciate any fruit left on the tree.
No wonder the Spanish missionaries considered pomegranates essential to propagate along El Camino Real in the 1700s. Pomegranates are still often found on old homesteads and in historic gardens across the state.
By 1927 California boasted 2,750 acres of pomegranates. As of 2011, the last year the USDA tracked commercial production, California had more than 30,000 acres of pomegranate orchards.
Some fruit trees, like plums, are susceptible to oak-root rot and can't be grown near diseased oak trees. Fortunately, pomegranates do not have this issue. Sometimes the pomegranate rind splits, exposing the seeds to insects, moisture and mold. Regular watering minimizes splitting, as it does for tomatoes and other fruits. Cease watering two to three weeks before your anticipated harvest.
Allow pomegranates to ripen fully on the tree as they won't ripen further after harvest. Clip the stem to avoid damaging the fruit; do not pull the fruit off the stem.
Pomegranates actually improve in storage, becoming juicier and more flavorful. Keep the fruit cool but not cold. A temperature below 41°Fwill turnred arils pale and promote decay. Stored at the proper temperature and around 85% humidity,the fruit can last for up to seven months. When the arilsstart to fade and look streaky, flavor fades, too, and it is time to put the fruit in the compost.
Pomegranate seeds germinate readily, but you may not get a high-quality tree from seed. Most pomegranates are propagated from rooted cuttings.
A few years ago, University of California Extension fruit-tree specialists Paul Vossen and Deborah Silver published a paper recommending pomegranate varieties for our area (http://home orchard.ucdavis.edu/plant_pomegranate.pdf). They describe ‘Wonderful' as producing large, deep-red fruits with juicy red arils, small seeds and good flavor. Vossen and Silver also suggest ‘Grenada' and ‘Eversweet' for a harvest that begins in August instead of September.
And if you have space for only one? Taste different varieties to find your favorite. The good news is that even ordinary pomegranates from your grocer's shelf can be Wonderful.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Making Wreaths from Your Garden” on Sunday, December 6, from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., at Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. Learn what plants from your garden will make good wreaths and how to choose and prepare plant materials to make them last a long time. Get tips and tricks for designing and making easy creative wreaths for the holidays or any time. Each participant will create a wreath to take home, using locally collected plant materials and supplies provided. To register, call the Parks and Recreation Department at 707-944-8712 or visit its web site.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
You can make a wreath with plant material only or add a little color with ribbon or small decorative items like bells or ornaments.
For the base of the wreath, you can purchase a frame or make your own. I have used prunings from my climbing roses, but other vines can work as well, such as grapevine canes. Thin, flexible stems are easier to bend into a wreath than rigid canes. Small flexible tree branches can also serve as the base of your wreath.
Choose plants with sturdy or stiff leaves that will look nice for a long time and not wilt. Many conifers are a good choice but test them first. Some, like spruce, will drop their leaves. Other plants that work well are willow, olive, eucalyptus, nandina, euonymus and bay laurel (Laurusnobilis).
If you plan to give your wreath away or suspect the wreath may leave the Bay Area, don't use camellias, oaks or California bay laurel (Umbellulariacalifornica).These plants can spread the disease known as sudden oak death, and their movement is restricted. Napa County, other Bay Area counties and coastal counties from Humboldt to Monterey are infested with this disease. Plant material from any infested county should not be moved to a non-infested county. For more information and maps of infested counties, consult www.suddenaokdeath.org.
Once you have collected your greens, soak them in water for 30 minutes, then let dry. This bath will keep the greens fresh longer and remove dirt and insects.
To make your base, weave the longer branches into a circle. Use green floral wire to keep the ends together or use a commercial wire frame. If using a wire frame, cut your greens into four- to six-inch pieces. Gather small bunches of greens, like a small bouquet, and attach them to the frame with green floral wire. Use each new bunch to cover the stems of the last, working around the frame until it is covered. Cover the last set of stems with an accent piece or bow.
Once you have finished the base, add accent pieces. These can be tucked into the greens, wired on or glued on. The best method depends on the item and how heavy or fragile it is. Grass flower heads or little bunches of dried herbs can be wired together, then tucked or wired into the greens. Cones or slightly heavier items are best attached with wire. To attach acorns, dried flowers, small bows or other small ornaments, use a hot glue gun. Some items can be tricky to attach but are worth a try. Add sparkle with spray-on “snow” or glitter.
Scout your garden for plants that have interesting textures or colors that will brighten your wreath. Consider fresh or dried flowers and herbs, small dried vegetables such as red chilies, seed pods, cones, sturdy berries, colored twigs or stems. I have even used a small bird nest that I found while cutting back an overgrown shrub. From my garden this year, I will be using dried hydrangeas, grasses, lavender and marjoram as well as dried sage, rose hips and lots of acorns. For most acorns, the caps need to be glued on or they will fall off.
To hang, identify the spot on your wreath that you want at top center. That's the 12 o'clock position. Turn the wreath over and locate what would be 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock on a clock face. Attach the two ends of a strong wire or ribbon to the main frame in those spots. The wire or ribbon must be long enough to reach 12 o'clock, the hang spot, when attached. Make sure the wire or ribbon is strong enough to support your wreath and strongly attached to the main frame.
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will conduct a workshop on “Creating Wreaths from Your Garden” on Sunday, December 7, from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., at the Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. Learn which plants from your garden make good wreaths. Learn how to choose and prepare plant materials, and tips and tricks for designing and making easy wreaths for the holidays and beyond. Using materials and supplies provided, participants will create their own wreath to take home. To register, call the Parks & Recreation Department at 707-944-8712 or visit its website.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
Shallots have been a favored ingredient of good cooks for centuries. Thought to have originated in Central or Southeast Asia, they migrated into India and the eastern Mediterranean before being widely dispersed around the world.
The word "shallot" comes from the name of the ancient Philistine city of Ashkelon, which is where early Greeks believed the plant originated. Today, regional varieties are prized in cuisines as diverse as French, Thai and Indian.
Most of us were familiar with the bronze-skinned shallots available at our local grocery. We were surprised to find that shallots come in a variety of shades ranging from gray, cream and bronze to pink and red. In researching sources for planting, we decided to try two kinds: ‘French Gray' shallots, which were touted as being the variety prized by chefs, and another called ‘French Red.'
Although some gardeners have success planting shallot bulbs from the grocery store, we purchased ours from a nursery to be sure that they were disease-free. Shallots are most commonly planted from “sets,” which means that the cloves are separated from a mature bulb and planted individually. In our Mediterranean climate, autumn is the best planting time for shallots. We planted last November with the expectation that we would be harvesting late the following spring.
Shallots prefer well-drained garden soil amended with plenty of compost. The individual cloves or small bulbs should be planted about six inches apart and with the pointed end just at or below the soil surface. Because they are sensitive to overwatering, shallots do well in raised beds. However, they also grow best with about an inch of water every week. In a dry winter like we had last year, supplemental irrigation will ensure a better crop.
My garden beds are prone to gopher activity, so I planted the shallots in wire cages sunk into the ground. Because I had grown summer vegetables in the same area earlier in the year, I added a granular all-purpose organic fertilizer at planting time. The sets went into well-watered ground the week of Thanksgiving. I added a half-inch layer of compost over the planted bulbs to conserve soil moisture. The only other care they received last winter was irrigation during dry periods.
The gray shallots sprouted readily and began growing right away. I was worried about the red variety though. Only about a third of the bulbs had sprouted by January, and I was wondering if they had rotted or been consumed by some predator. Eventually the red shallots did send up sprouts, and I continued to water both red and gray types through May. By the end of May, all the shallots had formed bulbs and some of the tops started to yellow. At this point I stopped watering them and waited for most of the tops to die back. I have to admit I was impatient for the harvest, not only for the delicious shallots I was anticipating but also so that I could free up the bed for a summer crop.
By the end of June, all the Master Gardeners had harvested their shallots, and we met to discuss results. To my surprise, the late-sprouting ‘French Red' shallots produced about double the yield of the ‘French Gray,' even though all gardeners planted an equal amount of both types. The red variety produced fewer bulbs per plant, but they were larger and easier to peel. Some of them were about the size of golf balls. The grey shallots were numerous but small, the size of a thimble or a thumb. Both varieties seem to store equally well. Four months after harvest, some are softening and spoiling, but there are still quite a few shallots of both types in good shape.
I wish I could tell you which one is better for cooking, but I'm afraid my palate is not that refined. When I needed just a little shallot flavor for a salad dressing, I preferred the small grey variety. For recipes calling for larger quantities of shallots, it was easier to reach for the reds. I'm looking forward to growing both again this year.
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will conduct a workshop on “Creating Wreaths from Your Garden” on Sunday, December 7, from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., at the Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. Learn which plants from your garden make good wreaths. Learn how to choose and prepare plant materials, and tips and tricks for designing and making easy wreaths for the holidays or other times of the year. Participants will create their own wreath to take home. To register, call the Parks & Recreation Department at 707-944-8712 or visit its website.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.