Gardening has become an activity that I just can't get enough of. Recently I tasked myself to learn the names of all the plants in my garden. I pretty much knew their common or colloquial names, but I wanted to know their botanical names.

Admittedly, my motivation was ego. I wanted to sound as marvelous as other folks who spout off botanical names. But as I was matching the names to the plants, I realized that botanical names—also called Latin names—serve a purpose.

A plant's botanical name is unique, with certain exceptions. Now that the Internet makes it easy to converse with a far-flung gardening community, using botanical names guarantees that we are all taking about the same plant.

The botanical names of plants include both the genus and species. This binomial, or two-name, system was developed by Swedish naturalist Carl Linnaeus in the 1700s.

A genus is a group of plants sharing a set of common characteristics. Plants in the same genus may have similar fruits, leaves or flowers.

A genus is larger than a species; think of it like a last name. The species, the second part of the binomial, sets the plant apart from others in the genus. Think of it like the first names that distinguish one sibling from another. In a Latin name, the genus comes first and is always capitalized; the species is always lowercase. Typically, botanical names are italicized.

Botanical names eliminate the confusion or miscommunication that can arise when people use a common name, like daisy or poppy. Which daisy? The African daisy, a common name, is in the Osteospermum genus. The Mexican daisy, another common name, is in the Erigeron genus.

Many botanical names hint at the plant's characteristics. Take the botanical name for the red maple, Acer rubrum. Acer is the genus. If you see that word on a plant tag at the nursery, you know the tree is a maple. Rubrum suggests redness. Acer rubrum is, in fact, a red-leafed maple.

How did I know that Acer refers to a maple? I searched online for a University of California index of plant names. In my experience, University of California sites are a great source for research-based information. If you are interested in California native plants, check out http://www.calflora.org/. You can look up plants by common or botanical names.

Sunset Western Garden Book has a pronunciation guide for botanical names, but I like the following link from Fine Gardening magazine: http://www.finegardening.com/pronunciation-guide. On this site, you can actually hear botanical names spoken. I was practicing the other day when my husband stuck his head around the corner and asked who I was talking to.

In the past, hearing others use Latin plant names would make my mind sort of shut down. Learning why these designations are used and what they mean has opened a whole new world for me. In fact, I now approach the subject like a game, as I try to translate, understand and pronounce each plant's botanical name. I take pictures of plants with my phone and use an app to help me identify them. Then I listen to the plant's botanical name, repeat it and then add it to my personal pictorial plant library. And I must say, I do sound marvelous.

Workshops: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will conduct a workshop on “Home Composting” at American Canyon Senior Center on Wednesday, May 18, from 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Learn the basics of backyard composting, and turn your yard waste and kitchen scraps into a rich soil amendment or mulch. Learn about tools, techniques and bin types. Register online at www.cityofnapa.org/compost. Or pick up a registration form at the Master Gardeners' office (address below). No phone registration. Directions will be sent when your registration is complete.

U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will conduct a workshop on “Growing Ornamentals and Flowers” on Saturday, May 21, from 10 a.m. to noon, at Mid-City Nursery, 3635 Broadway, American Canyon. Learn about the maintenance and care of ornamentals. Master Gardeners will discuss hydrozoning, how to plant for seasonal color year round, and how to encourage pollinators in your garden. On-line registration (credit card only); 
Mail-in/Walk-in registration (cash or check only). 

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.

Is the drought over? Not by a long shot. My well is at the same level as it was this time last year, so I will continue to conserve water. How do I do that? By growing drought-tolerant, native, Mediterranean-type plants.  

I have been gardening with such plants for many years. Last summer was a test of how well they would do with no summer watering. I did not water at all over the summer and lost only one plant.

I have nine swales in my garden. A swale is a shallow trench used to harvest rainwater and slowly release it into the soil. Plants tap into this reserve when water is scarce. Swales conform   to the contour of the soil and have berms alongside that can be used for planting.

Several natives that have done well in my garden are sticky monkey flower (Mimulus aurantiacus), lavenders of many types, bottlebrush (Callistemon), native iris, red-hot poker (Kniphofia ), butterfly bush (Buddleja), milkweed (Asclepias) and salvias. I have intentionally created a habitat garden with lots of room and bloom for birds, butterflies and bugs. Right now, my breadseed poppies are showing their beautiful red heads. I started these with just a few seeds, and they have re-seeded widely.

Some monkey flowers have sticky leaves; others do not. These plants are native to Oregon, California and Baja California. The flowers look like little monkey faces and come in a variety of colors. Many hybrids have been developed and the flower colors are outstanding. They bloom over a long period, survived all summer in my garden without water and are up and blooming now. The plants can reach three to four feet in height and can be trimmed back.  

Lavender thrives in my garden. Last year some went to seed, and wind and birds spread the seed. Now lavender in many colors is sprouting in other areas. There is even a white one, and I guess I can thank the bees for that. I have never had white lavender before.

Bottlebrush is native to Austrialia. It can take the form of a large bush or tree depending on how it is pruned. I have a couple that I keep as low bushes.

The flower of the Pacific Coast iris (Iris douglasiana) is typically blue, but hybrids have many different flower colors. I have a beautiful white one. My Iris confusa ‘Chengdu' came from a Bay Area grower; it grows well in shade without any summer water. It is one of my favorites.

Salvias are native to many parts of the world. Every time I think I have all my favorites, new ones appear. One identifying feature of sage is its square stem. Some salvias tower over me (I am petite), while others stay low. There are more than 900 species worldwide, so I don't plan on collecting all of them. I only have one acre. Sage blossoms are spectacular, and the leaves are aromatic. I love to rub my hands over the leaves and then smell the fragrance.

I have many milkweeds in my garden. They are mostly drought tolerant, and bees and bugs love them. Milkweed is the only food source for the larvae of the Monarch butterfly, and I want to encourage as many of them as I can. The Monarchs in the western U.S. evolved with native milkweed; they lay their eggs on milkweed. Most milkweeds die back in winter and come up in spring with big, bright flowers. Their milky sap make the larvae taste bad to birds, so they leave the larvae alone.  

When I visited Turkey, I saw breadseed poppies (Papaver orientale) everywhere, their red heads waving in the breeze. I also saw them in some of the countries on the Dalmatian coast. The seeds from these poppies are sprinkled on baked goods.

My two large habitat garden areas are filled with native plants and take less time and water then the lawn they replaced. Gardening with natives is a great strategy for creating a water-wise yet beautiful landscape.

Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will hold a workshop on “Oaks and Native Plants” on Saturday, May 7, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at Skyline Park, 2201 Imola Avenue, Napa. Stroll Skyline Park and the Martha Walker Garden to view oaks in their native habitat. Discover what grows alongside and underneath oaks. Learn about planting under oak trees in your own garden, about caring for oaks and about Sudden Oak Death and other stresses. On-line registration (credit card only) Mail-in/Walk-in registration (cash or check only).

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.

Tomatoes are a mainstay in most summer gardens. Delicious in warm-weather salads, they are also essential to many cooked dishes. And the plants require far less water to grow than many other vegetables. Here are some tips to help ensure a successful harvest.

Wait to plant until all danger of frost is past and the soil is sufficiently warm. Cool weather makes tomato plants more susceptible to diseases and pests and slows plant growth.

Prior to planting, “harden off” tomato seedlings by placing them outside for about a week. Put them in a sheltered location, and then gradually expose them to garden conditions. If frost threatens, bring the plants indoors or cover them.

Choose stocky transplants six to eight inches tall with healthy green leaves. Check the bottom of the container. If roots are growing out the bottom, the seedlings may have been in the pot too long and may be root bound.

Water seedlings a few hours before planting and make sure the soil in the planting area is moist. Pinch off all but the top two sets of leaves. Carefully remove each seedling from its plastic pot without handling the fragile stem. Loosen the roots. Set the seedling in a planting hole deep enough to cover the exposed stem when the hole is backfilled. Those little hairs on the stem will form roots if buried and will help give your plant a good foundation.

If the seedlings are in biodegradable pots, you can plant them in the pot, but break up the pots slightly so the roots can easily grow into the soil.

Fill the planting hole with soil, press the soil firmly around the plant, and then water the area thoroughly.

Tomatoes need full sun and plenty of room to grow. If planting in a pot, choose a large one. If planting in the ground or in raised beds, space seedlings 24 to 30 inches apart. If you don't intend to stake or cage them, they will need even more room.

Most tomato plants benefit from some type of support. Cages or stakes keep them off the ground, maximize space and make harvesting easier. I like the rectangular wire cages that collapse for winter storage.

Place cages around seedlings soon after planting to avoid damaging the plants. Insert two strong stakes on both sides of the cage to provide support when the plant becomes heavy with fruit. Check the ultimate height of the variety you are planting to determine the height of the cage you need. The openings in the cage should be large enough to accommodate your hand at harvest time.

If you prefer to stake your plants, select stakes six feet long and one and one half to two inches wide. Drive them one foot into the soil four to six inches from the plant. As the plants grow, pull the stems toward the stakes and loosely tie them at intervals of ten to twelve inches. Use strips of cloth or other flexible material. Prune the plants to a few main stems to keep them from becoming too heavy.

Tomatoes need regular watering. Fluctuations in soil moisture can promote fruit cracking and blossom-end rot. Keep the area weeded. Weeds compete with your tomatoes for nutrients and water and can harbor pests. A three- to four-inch layer of mulch will minimize weeds and help retain soil moisture.

Don't fertilize until the plants are flowering and fruits are forming. Too much nitrogen fertilizer in the beginning will encourage green growth but will delay fruit formation. Once the plants start fruiting, give them a nitrogen fertilizer every four to six weeks. Follow the instructions on the label. Place the fertilizer alongside the growing plants in shallow grooves or on the soil surface. Water it in thoroughly.

Harvest tomatoes when they reach full color. Store at room temperature—not in the refrigerator—to enjoy their flavor at its best.

Tomato Plant Sale: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will hold their fourth annual Tomato Sale and Education Day on Saturday, April 23, from 9 a.m. until sold out, in a new location at 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Choose from 28 varieties, including heirlooms and new varieties in a range of colors. These healthy, Master Gardener-grown seedlings include types for fresh eating and for sauce.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.

In a restricted area, such as an apartment complex or a small, confined yard, containers may be the ideal way to raise vegetables. Pot selection, container soil, container positioning, sunlight and heat deflection from walls or fences all contribute to a successful growing experience.

You can use many different kinds of containers, such as wooden planters, clay pots, plastic buckets or even plastic bags filled with planting mix. They must have drainage holes. If you are placing containers on a wooden surface, such as a deck, reduce the possibility of rot by raising the containers on small blocks to allow for air circulation.

Be sure your containers are deep enough for the crop you want to grow. Six to ten inches is sufficient for shallow-rooted plants like arugula, basil, chives, lettuce, green onions, radishes and mizuna. With a deeper pot, 10 to 15 inches, you can try carrots, celery, Chinese cabbage, garlic, leeks, Swiss chard and patio tomatoes.

Go for 18- to 24-inch-deep containers if you want to try beans, broccoli, kale, peas, peppers and short-vine (determinate) tomatoes. A container 20 inches in diameter and 18 inches deep will give you plenty of room for several small lettuces or for one pepper or tomato plant.

The planting medium needs to be both porous and moisture retentive. Because you may need to move your pots occasionally, it also needs to be lightweight. Garden soil is too dense and heavy. A good-quality potting soil will contain compost and nutrients for plants, plus vermiculite or perlite for drainage and peat or coir for holding moisture.

Finding the perfect place for your containers may be the most challenging part. Leafy vegetables such as lettuce need four to six hours of sunlight daily, but fruiting vegetables like peppers, beans and tomatoes need eight hours. An area near a wall that reflects sunlight can be too warm for some plants.

Container soil can get a lot warmer than the ground. Try shading the containers themselves if they are in a warm spot, while allowing the growing plants to get all the sunlight they need.

Container plants require more frequent watering than plants in the ground, and they also need more frequent fertilizing. Most commercial potting soils include fertilizer to get plants off to a good start. After six weeks or so, start fertilizing every other week with a half-strength liquid fertilizer formulated for vegetables or container plants. Nurseries sell organic and inorganic types. Check label directions for the suggested dilution, then double the recommended amount of water to get a half-strength solution.

For container gardens that are always on view, consider the many vegetables that are ornamental. Look for colorful versions of lettuce or Swiss chard, for example. A combination of leafy lettuces, blooming chives and a viola could produce an instant salad mix in a cool location. For the warm season, try a patio-type tomato with sweet basil at the base. Nurseries often have pots with such pre-planted combinations, but it's fun to create your own.

In April, the options for edibles are almost limitless. You can still start some cool-season vegetables, but it is also planting time for warm-season crops. The Napa Count Master Gardener website has several planting calendars in its “Healthy Garden Tips” section. Find that section under the “Gardening Resources” button on the left side of the home page.

Edible container gardens aren't limited to vegetables. Many perennial herbs do quite well in pots. Try thyme, oregano, marjoram and parsley. Edible flowers such as nasturtiums and violas also thrive in containers. Don't let lack of a garden plot keep you from the pleasure of harvesting your own edibles.

Tomato Plant Sale: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will hold their fourth annual Tomato Sale and Education Day on Saturday, April 23, from 9 a.m. until sold out, in a new location at 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Choose from 28 varieties, including heirlooms and new varieties in a range of colors. These healthy, Master Gardener-grown seedlings include types for fresh eating and for sauce.

Workshops: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will hold a workshop on “Growing Tomatoes” on Sunday, April 10, from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., at the Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. The workshop will focus on techniques for a successful harvest, including soil temperature requirements; tomato types; care and fertilizing; support choices; and integrated pest management. Register with the Parks and Recreation Department at

707-944-8712 or on its web site.

The “Growing Tomatoes” workshop will repeat on Saturday, April 16, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at the University of California Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. On-line registration (credit card only); Mail-in/Walk-in registration (cash or check only).

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.