In the cherry category, ‘Sun Gold' is a perennial favorite of Napa County Master Gardeners. Steve Rae also likes ‘Miller's Cove Currant'. It produces incredible numbers of half-inch, sweet red tomatoes over the entire season. I like ‘Black Cherry'. It has the rich taste common to the so-called black tomatoes and holds up better to roasting than most cherry tomatoes.

Which varieties to choose for making sauce or paste or for drying? Pat Hitchcock grew the hybrid ‘Big Mama' last year and says this plant was a great producer and perfect for sauce. I grew ‘Opalka', a Polish heirloom paste tomato. I will grow it again because it was so meaty and had few seeds. I used it for sauce but also found it ideal for bruschetta and for drying.

Some Master Gardeners are big fans of black tomatoes. Mickey Riva, Marci Nielsen‑Berruezo and Lorie Mazzaroppi all sing the praises of ‘Black Krim'. Marci describes it as dark and mysterious in appearance and rich in flavor, with a natural saltiness that adds complexity. One of my dark favorites is ‘Paul Robeson'. It resembles Cherokee Purple' in flavor but produces earlier and is extremely prolific. Penny Pawl and Helen Bergin favor ‘Japanese Black Trifele'. It is the only variety that Penny grows, and Helen loves its taste,appearance and resistance to cracking.

Do you have room in your garden for only one tomato? For length of harvest and consistent performance, Gayle Keane and Jo Moore swear by ‘Early Girl'. Amelia Ceja loves ‘Green Zebra' for its flavor, beautiful color and suitability to the cool Carneros region. She uses it for her spicy, fire-roasted tomato salsa. David Layland's favorite is ‘Bloody Butcher', an early producer that persists well into fall.

Many gardeners grow large tomatoes for slicing. Some prefer traditional all-red varieties, while others favored multicolored types. Meredith Lavene loves ‘Red Brandywine', which won the large tomato category in last year's Napa County Master Gardeners taste test. Lois Quick prefers ‘Marvel Stripe'. Orange and yellow outside, this large tomato reveals streaks of red, yellow and orange when sliced. It has a sweet, fruity taste. Mike Weinberg grows ‘Pink Berkeley Tie Dye' for its size, taste, yield and beauty.

If you are looking for new tomato varieties to try, ask yourself these questions. How do you plan to use the fruit? Will you be cooking and preserving your tomatoes, or do you primarily eat them fresh? How much room do you have in your garden? How would you rank the importance of flavor, appearance, productivity and disease resistance? Research the characteristics of different varieties before you make your choices. Decide whether you prefer hybrids or heirlooms or want to grow some of each.

Many hybrid varieties have been bred for productivity and resistance to diseases that plague tomatoes. On plant tags, look for the letters V,F,N,T and A, which indicate resistance to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt, nematodes, tobacco mosaic virus and Alternaria stem canker.

Heirloom tomatoes offer a wide spectrum of flavors, colors, textures and shapes. While heirlooms may not be as productive as hybrids and tend to be more susceptible to disease, many home gardeners appreciate them for their unique characteristics. What's more, you can save and replant heirloom tomato seeds next year; in contrast, seeds from a hybrid variety will not “come true,” or produce an identical tomato when replanted.

Whichever varieties you choose, wait until the danger of frost is past and the soil is sufficiently warm to plant your tomatoes. Soil temperatures below 57ºF delay growth and leave the plants more susceptible to insect damage and disease. Tomatoes planted later usually catch up with those planted in colder weather. I wait until the last week in April to plant mine, and even then, I watch the forecast so I can cover them if frost threatens.

Tomato Sale and Education Event: Napa County Master Gardeners are hosting their third annual Tomato Sale on Saturday, April 18. Join us in the South Oxbow parking lot in Napa, 9 a.m. until sold out. We have a bountiful selection of strong, young plants: heirlooms, hybrids, cherry, paste and just plain good eating tomatoes of all sizes. Remember to bring your own box to safely transport your plants home. Click on the link above to read descriptions of the varieties for sale.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.

There have been many times that I have considered purchasing a machete. What better way to eradicate gardening blunders, and in such a flamboyant manner? I make many of my mistakes through ignorance and often from just not reading instructions.

I own two plants that might not be considered invasive plants, but they definitely have invaded my garden and most assuredly are mistakes. They are Potentilla and morning glory.

More than 20 years ago, when I was just starting out in the gardening game, I was looking to do something in my side yard. The space runs the full length of the house—about 45 feet—and is about 7 feet wide. I was looking for an easy fix that required little or no maintenance but would be pleasant to look at.

My husband and I were in the midst of raising three kids and working 40 hours a week, after all. Being an inexperienced gardener, I did not realize that the traits I sought are rarely found together.My research turned up a groundcover called Potentilla. With its deep green ground-hugging foliage, cute yellow flowers and low water requirements, what's not to love? I ordered several flats and proceeded to plant the Potentilla in the side yard.

Had I done more research and asked around, I would have found out Potentilla's true nature and perhaps decided against it. I can only imagine that the person responsible for naming this plant did so with tongue in cheek. I mean, it is truly “potent.”Virtually impossible to assassinate.

Potentilla is now growing throughout my entire yard:popping up in the lawn, in all the garden beds, around the copping on the pool, everywhere. Every year it gets a rust fungus that is hard to eliminate. Part of each time segment I spend in the garden is dedicated to Potentilla patrol. I see no end in sight. It must be said, though, that the side yard looks great.

You would think that I would have learned my lesson and not committed a similar error again. In my defense, perhaps my head was so swollen with pride at my recent graduation from the University of California's Master Gardener program that I wasn't thinking clearly. When I received a congratulatory card with morning glory seeds enclosed, I lost my mind and planted them. This packet of seeds turned intothe gift that keeps on giving.“Big mistake” hardly describes the situation.

True, the morning glory flowers are fun and beautiful to look at. The phrase “a riot of color” comes to mind. They bloom in the morning, as their name suggests, and are largely closed by noon. A small seedling becomes avine that clambers up and over virtually any obstacle to create a carpet of color.

So what's the problem? First, because they are annuals, they die back in cold weather and go to seed. So now your landscape is festooned with yards of spent vines. I learned the hard way that you need to pull the vines down before they go to seed. If you wait until the vines are dry and the seeds are falling or ready to fall, pulling the vines down unleashes a shower of seeds.

The propagation potential is frightful enough, but to add insult to injury, the seeds are poisonous. Birds, normally nature's little vacuum cleaners, will not touch them. The seeds also endanger people and pets. The toxicity is mild to moderate but common effects include diarrhea, anemia, uncoordinated movements and liver failure, depending on how much was ingested.

So now I not only have to remove the vines but I practically have to use tweezers to pick up all the seeds. Any seeds that I miss will grow into a plant in the spring, repeating the entire cycle. Maybe morning glory is lovely in the wild.In my yard, not so much.

The moral to the story is, research a plant's characteristics and growth patterns before planting it. Ask at local nurseries, consult your neighbors and look online. The Napa County Master Gardeners staff a help desk to give advice and planting information. Check our website (address below). Avail yourself of these resources before you, too, find yourself on Potentilla patrol.

Tomato Sale and Education Event: Napa County Master Gardeners are hosting their third annual Tomato Sale on Saturday, April 18. Join us in the South Oxbow parking lot in Napa, 9 a.m. until sold out. We have a bountiful selection of strong, young plants: heirlooms, hybrids, cherry, paste and just plain good eating tomatoes of all sizes. Remember to bring your own box to safely transport your plants home. Click on the link above to read descriptions of the varieties for sale.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions

questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.

If you have time and money to invest, you will only have to mow, de-thatch, rake, weed, fertilize and remove animal waste from your lawn. The University of California at Davis's Integrated Pest Management website has a lot of information about how to care for your lawn (http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/TOOLS/TURF/RENOVATE/index.html).

The tips and techniques found on this site will help you limit, if not preclude, the use of herbicides. By using less herbicide, you limit your exposure, and that of your pets and surrounding plants, to toxic chemicals.

However, the time you spend following these tips is time not spent relaxing on your lawn. I am exhausted thinking about the maintenance required by natural grass. And we can't forget watering. Lawns are, by far, the thirstiest part of a landscape. Over a year, the cost of watering a lawn can be as expensive as a short Hawaiian vacation.

I prefer an annual Hawaiian vacation over a nice lawn. That's why I installed synthetic grass in my yard. After six years, my synthetic lawn looks as great as it did when installed. It hasn't faded from the sun or begun to degrade from the elements. The only maintenance my lawn requires is an occasional pass with a leaf blower to give it a fresh-mowed look.

When it's in direct sun, the synthetic grass can get hot, which is also often the case with natural grass. Most synthetic turf reflects light, reducing the amount of heat it will absorb and limiting fading. You can place patio furniture on a synthetic lawn without damaging the turf. I do use rubber coasters under furniture legs to distribute the weight, but that's just for peace of mind.

With synthetic turf, you don't have to worry about subterranean creatures digging holes, as they do in natural turf. The base fabric is strong enough to prevent animals from digging or chewing through it, while still porous enough that water will drain through.

The product has come a long way since it was first introduced in 1965 in the new Houston Astrodome and given the moniker “Astroturf.” There are numerous brands, with a choice of colors and pile height. Golfers can even have a putting green installed.

To provide the cushioned feel of natural grass, synthetic grass has a fill of either sand, fractured rubber or a combination. This fill keeps the grass upright, prevents matting and serves as an excellent weed barrier.

Proper installation of a synthetic lawn requires more than just cutting, measuring and unrolling. Installation should be performed by a licensed landscape contractor who is proficient with the product. A conscientious contractor will prepare the site by excavating several inches below the level of the lawn and backfilling with compacted drainage rock so that water will filter through the lawn and not pool on top.

Some people question whether synthetic grass is safe for children and pets. Concerns include possibly high levels of lead. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention studied synthetic playing fields in New Jersey for risk of lead exposure (http://www.cdc.gov/nceh/lead/tips/artificialturf.htm). The study determined that lawns made of nylon or a nylon-polyethylene blend carry a potential health risk, while lawns made entirely of polyethylene contain a low level of lead.

When shopping for a synthetic lawn, ask about the composition. However, a typical home lawn is probably too small to carry much risk of exposure. Synthetic grass may be less flammable than natural turf, but conclusive research is hard to find. Common sense suggests that the turf would melt or at least scorch if exposed to fire, a hazard even if the grass doesn't ignite. Protect your artificial turf from open flame and extreme heat.

With some research, many homeowners will decide that synthetic grass is an economical and environmentally friendly alternative to a natural lawn. Making the change will free up time to spend enjoying the yard.

Tomato Sale and Education Event: Napa County Master Gardeners are hosting their third annual Tomato Sale on Saturday, April 18. Join us in the South Oxbow parking lot in Napa, 9 a.m. until sold out. We have a bountiful selection of strong, young plants: heirlooms, hybrids, cherry, paste and just plain good eating tomatoes of all sizes. Remember to bring your own box to safely transport your plants home. Click on the link above to read descriptions of the varieties for sale.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.

First, don't rush to get those tomatoes in the ground. Wait until the danger of frost is past and the soil is sufficiently warm. Cool temperatures make tomato plants more susceptible to disease and slow growth. Prior to planting, “harden off” the plants by placing them outside in a sheltered location for about a week. Gradually expose them to more sun during the day. If frost threatens, bring the plants indoors or cover them to provide protection.

When you buy tomato plants, pick stocky transplants with healthy green leaves. Inspect the bottom of the container; the plants should not be root bound.

Evaluate locations before deciding where to plant. Choose a spot with full sun. Do not plant tomatoes or other members of the nightshade family (potatoes, eggplants and peppers) in the same location two years in a row to keep soil-borne fungal diseases from getting established.Ideally, wait at least three years before planting nightshades in the same location. If you grow your tomatoes in pots, clean the pots first, and then fill them with new potting mix.

Your plants will be more productive if you give them plenty of room. If you intend to support the plants with stakes or cages, space plants in rows 30 to 42 inches apart, leaving 24 to 30 inches between the plants. If you're going to let the plants sprawl,give them even more room. If you use pots, choose large ones.

Water the plants and the planting areaa few hours before planting. Wait until late afternoon to plant. Pinch off all but the top two sets of leaves, and then bury the plant in the soil up to those top leaves. Avoid handling the stem. New roots will form along the buried stem.

If the plants are in biodegradable pots, break up the pots slightly so the roots can easily grow into the soil. Bury the pots completely to avoid water wicking away from the roots. If the seedlings are in plastic pots, gently remove the seedlings and loosen the roots before planting. Press the soil firmly around the plant, and then water the area thoroughly.

Most tomato plants benefit from some type of support. Cages keep the tomatoes off the ground, maximize garden space, and make harvest easier. Install cages soon after planting to avoid damaging plants. Place two strong stakes on both sides of each cage for additional support when the plant becomes heavy with fruit. Make sure your cage is tall enough for the plant when it's full grown.Cage openings should be large enough for you to reach in and harvest.

Another option is to stake plants. Select stakes 6 feet long and 1-1/2 to 2 inches wide. Drive them 1 foot into the soil approximately 4 to 6 inches from the plant. As the plants grow, pull the stems toward the stakes and loosely tie them to the stakes at intervals of 10 to 12 inches. Use flexible material for ties, such as garden tape or strips of rags. Prune the tomato plants to a few main stems to keep the plants from becoming too heavy.

Water tomatoes to a depth of three feet, generally once a week but more often in hot weather.Apply a three- to four-inch layer of mulch to reduce weeds, retain soil moisture and moderate soil temperature. Extreme fluctuations in soil moisture can cause fruit cracking and blossom end rot.

Wait to fertilize until the plants are flowering and fruits are forming. Feed witha nitrogen fertilizer every four to six weeks, following label instructions. Water thoroughly after fertilizing.

Harvest tomatoes when they develop full color. Keepat room temperature to maintain that just-picked flavor.

Tomato Sale and Education Event: Napa County Master Gardeners are hosting their third annual Tomato Sale on Saturday, April 18. Join us in the South Oxbow parking lot in Napa, 9 a.m. until sold out. We have a bountiful selection of strong, young plants: heirlooms, hybrids, cherry, paste and just plain good eating tomatoes of all sizes. Remember to bring your own box to safely transport your plants home. Click on the link above to read descriptions of the varieties for sale.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.