- Author: Deborah Stevens
My worm hobby began in 1999 after I attended a Master Gardener composting class. This hobby continues to fascinate me. Worms recycle my kitchen garbage, and I'm still amazed by the process.
Two years ago I went to North Carolina State University's annual vermiculture conference. The conference was so inspiring that I went again last year. It is the only conference about earthworm farming and mid- to large-scale vermicomposting in North America.
The conference, coordinated by a university extension specialist, offers science-based information. One of the topics was the difference between vermicompost tea and leachate.
Both begin with red wigglers, which are small earthworms that live near the top of the soil and consume organic matter. I feed my worms kitchen garbage and disease-free plant debris from my yard. My goal is to create vermicompost and aerated compost tea for nourishing a healthy, chemical-free garden.
To make aerated compost tea, you need a 12- to 24-hour aeration cycle, de-cholorinated water and finished compost. Alternatively, you can make the tea in a bucket in three to seven days by stirring occasionally.
By introducing air, you encourage the proliferation of aerobic microorganisms and discourage the anaerobic microorganisms that may produce byproducts unfavorable to plant growth.
Vermicompost tea contains a large diversity of bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes. These microorganisms increase soil biological activity, encourage plant vigor, yield, bud break, fruiting, flowering, color, root volume, seed germination, and pest and disease resistance. You can use vermicompost as a foliar spray or soil drench.
Many worm composters are unfamiliar with the topic of aerated compost tea, preferring to use the leachate that many vermicompost systems encourage. Although leachate seems to benefit plants, it comes with some risk.
Research suggests that the use of leachate should be discouraged. Vermicompost is not leachate. The excess water that drips through a worm bin is leachate. It picks up undigested material which may contain pathogens and chemicals toxic to plants and humans.
A properly maintained worm bin will not collect or seep excess water or leachate.
Use leachate to water a favorite weed, or flush leachate down the toilet. Using leachate on plants, especially edibles, is not worth the risk of pathogenic contamination.
As for the vermicompost produced by red wigglers in the worm bin, the worms and microbes gobble up the pathogens in their environment and do not release the pathogens back into the soil.
Microbes are part of a worm-bin ecosystem. They live and work amongst the worms in the vermicompost, eating and overpopulating the pathogens while being ingested by the worms.
The vermicompost is ready to use when you don't recognize the original feed stock. It should smell clean and earthy and appear brown and crumbly.
I wondered if the pathogens the worms previously digested are freed upon their death. Otto D. Simmons III, a professor of biological and agricultural engineering at North Carolina State University, says that “live worms digest the dead ones and the pathogens are eaten by the surviving worms.”
So why use aerated compost tea? Because it adds organic life to the soil, improves soil structure, water retention, root depth and growth.
A foliar spray of vermicompost tea protects plants from pests and diseases, thus reducing the need for chemicals. I love the idea that my plants seem happier and stronger due to my kitchen waste.
Be sure to use non-chlorinated water when making tea or watering your worm bins. City dwellers can set a jug or bucket of water out for 24 hours to de-gas the chlorine. Rain water collected in buckets is a good alternative.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners (http://napamg.ucanr.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4221, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions?
- Author: Val Whitmyre
Of all the plants that grow well in Napa Valley, camellias are among the stars. They shine from October through April, with their glossy evergreen leaves and variety of blooms and growth patterns.
My first visit to the annual Napa Valley Camellia Society show was an eye opener. Long ago, I thought that camellias were just flowers that plop onto the ground after blooming, leaving a mess to clean up, so I was astonished with the beauty before me as I entered the show. All messy images instantly disappeared.
This year's show will be particularly special because camellia lovers from as far away as New Zealand, all members of the American Camellia Society, will be joining the Napa group for the annual national convention.
On Saturday, February 2, the Napa Valley Camellia Society will again present its exquisite show from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. at the Napa Senior Center. The public is encouraged to attend. There is no admission fee.
If you grow camellias, you may want to bring one of your favorites to be judged. You might win a prize. More importantly, you can learn a few facts about these incredible flowers before you run to a nursery to buy them.
There are six different types of camellias: single, semi-double, formal double, rose form, peony and anemone. All have clusters of golden stamens.
Camellias are evergreen shrubs or small trees first discovered in Asia. You can see them in the older sections of downtown Napa, still healthy after many years.
Known as understory plants, they grow well under Douglas fir, redwood and old oak trees. These trees provide protection from the elements and a greenhouse effect to help keep the camellia roots healthy and warm.
Camellias are almost carefree and, in my experience, withstand drought and moderate frost. The major problem is exposure to hot summer afternoon sun and drying winds.
Camellia blight, a fungal disease, turns the flowers an ugly brown. The disease is common in rainy years, with white and pale pink varieties especially susceptible. In general, camellias like cool winters, lightly acid soil and excellent water drainage. They thrive in filtered shade and in soil rich with organic matter. In other words, they do well in conditions that mimic the forest locations where they were first found.
For camellia care, it is easier to tell you what not to do. Camellias have a shallow root system, so avoid any digging that might injure delicate feeder roots. They respond well to a thick layer of organic mulch to help protect these roots. They don't need any particular pruning, although cutting out thick foliage that might prevent air circulation may be helpful. You may also remove any branches that seem out of place.
Camellias need moderate watering, with perhaps a bit more during hot summer weather. Use a camellia fertilizer in the spring after flowering, following directions on the package. In the fall, use only 0-10-10 fertilizer to promote healthy roots and flowering.
Although there are hundreds of different camellia species, only a few are considered show-worthy. These are the popular Camellia japonica, C. reticulata and crosses between these two species. Large blossoms are four to five inches across, very large ones over five inches.
Other species are notable for other uses and characteristics. Sasanqua camellias may be grown as landscape shrubs, container plants, espaliers, hedges and bonsai specimens. Their flowers are considered small to medium, at two and a half to three inches across, but other characteristics make them desirable landscape plants. They drop their petals one by one and some are fragrant. One of my favorites, ‘Jean May', is a delicate shell pink reminiscent of a fragile china cup, yet it withstands rain and frost. My newest Sasanqua, ‘Old Glory', is so lovely, with large white wavy petals that remind me of a rare butterfly.
C. sinensis provides us with tea, and C. oleifera gives us cooking oil. The species camellia, C. nitidissima, known as the golden camellia, is used to introduce the color yellow into other camellias. Another species, C. lutchuensis, provides fragrance in hybrids.
Most camellias bloom in variations of pink, red and white. Occasionally a sport will appear on a branch, with blossoms that display white stripes or blotches or other unusual markings that differ from the original color. This sport is the result of a systemic viral mutation. It doesn't seem to harm the plant; in fact, some hybridizers duplicate this mutation with lovely results. Look for these mutations when you go to the show. See you there. I'll be wearing a camellia on my lapel.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners (http://napamg.ucanr.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4221 or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions?
- Author: Denise Seghesio Levine
In the coldest days of winter we can all use a little splash of color in the garden. This month your nursery or garden center should have plenty of bedding plants to fill the bill. Look for upright, colorful primroses in bold, primary colors; mischievous-faced pansies in yellows and blues; and delicate Iceland poppies in translucent salmon, pink, white and yellow.
The word primula is the Latin feminine diminutive of primus, meaning first (prime), and is applied to flowers that are among the first to open in spring.
Primroses (Primula vulgaris) do well in Napa Valley, bringing color to our grayest season. They thrive in the winter chill. While many varieties of primrose bloom through spring and summer, the English, Chinese and fairy primroses are especially good choices for winter.
The flower stalks of primroses shoot up from low, ground-hugging rosettes of thick green leaves. Whether the stocky English variety or the more ethereal-looking fairy type, most primroses bloom for weeks.
Primroses will grow in shady, damp parts of the garden that might thwart other flowers. Try them on the north side of the house or under deciduous trees. They appreciate sun in the spring but do better in shade when the summer heat hits.
Primulas prefer slightly acid soil rich in organic compost or leaf mulch. Most varieties require well-drained soil, but there are exceptions: Helodoxa, Bulleyana and Beesiana will grow in relatively wet soil, and Florindae and japonica will even thrive in wet, boggy spots.
When you buy primroses, choose plants that still have unopened blossoms. These will grow vigorously when you set them out in well-dug soil amended with compost or leaf mulch. Primroses are easy to transplant, but beware: some gardeners develop itchy dermatitis after transplanting primroses. Pull out the gloves for this chore.
Space primulas six to eight inches apart, and plant so that the crown is even with the soil. Mulch and water well. Primulas are usually pest free, although slugs and snails can do some damage.
Perky-faced pansies (Viola tricolor) in a multitude of colors make wonderful bedding and container plants for winter. Pansies and their cousins, violets and violas, are perennials but are normally grown as annuals or biennials because they tend to get leggy after one season.
Pansy "faces" are made up of five flat petals: two top, two side and one lower petal. Typically, each flower exhibits two or three colors. The side and bottom petals often have contrasting veins radiating from the center of the bloom, teasing the imagination into seeing perky little faces. For gardens designed to delight youngsters, pansies, violets and violas are essential components. They create magical habitats and memories that last.
Pansies grow successfully in a well-drained, sunny spot. Bring home six-packs or flats and plant them directly in the garden. Pansies normally grow about nine inches high with most blossoms measuring two to three inches across.
Pansies look great planted in mass in a bed, or in flower pots or containers on porches and decks where you can see their cheery faces up close. Never overwater pansies, but if rain is not keeping the ground moist, give them a good soak once a week.
As for Iceland poppies (Papaver nudicaule), they do best in cool weather. They grow about a foot tall with cream, white, pink, red, salmon, orange or rose-colored papery petals on tall, leafless stems.
Plant Iceland poppies carefully as their roots do not appreciate being disturbed. Make sure the crown is just slightly below the soil surface to avoid rot. Water weekly if rain is scarce.
Iceland poppies make wonderful cut flowers, and a handful can make a whimsical bouquet. Your poppies will bloom more prolifically if you pick them often. Iceland poppies will stop blooming when the weather gets hot, so enjoy the winter color and their frilly blossoms indoors and out.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners (http://napamg.ucanr.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4221, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions?
- Author: by Denise Seghesio Levine, U. C. Master Gardener
If you still need a paper calendar for 2013 and you cherish the many oak trees that beautify Napa Valley, have I got a deal for you.
The Napa County Resource Conservation District, the Watershed Information Center and Conservancy of Napa County, and Friends of the Napa River have produced a beautiful, educational 2013 Watershed Awareness Calendar: “Preserving and Restoring the Oaks of Napa County.” This colorful guide gives an overview of the history of oaks, where to find them, what their impact on cultures has been, what other species they support, what threatens oaks and what we can do to protect them. It is instructive, lovely and free.
Some of our most talented local photographers have captured images of oaks, their habitats, their leaves and their acorns throughout the changing seasons.
The first page introduces you to the common oaks of Napa County, with clear photos of distinguishing leaves and acorns and descriptions of where each type grows. Armed with this calendar, you will be able to identify the valley oak (Quercus lobata), coast live oak (Quercus agrifolia), blue oak (Quercus douglassii), interior live oak (Quercus wislizeni), canyon live oak (Quercus chrysolepis) and black oak (Quercus kelloggii).
The calendar's authors describe the state of our oak woodlands and why becoming more aware of our oaks is so important.
January's page starts with the Angwin Audubon Christmas Bird Count, already marked onto the square for January 1; and the Boy Scout Christmas Tree Collection the following weekend. The calendar is not only clear and easy to use, but also a wealth of information.
At the bottom of the first page is an introduction to Napa County oaks. I was surprised to learn that Napa County has the highest density of oaks of any county in California. In fact, 33 percent of our county is covered by oak woodlands.
On the February page, we learn that oak woodlands cover over 167,000 acres of Napa County. Mixed and coast live oaks are most prevalent in the southwest part of the county, while black oak woodlands are found in the Atlas Peak region and other higher elevations. The calendar describes where other oaks can be found, too.
The March page explores the history of oaks and the important role they played for earlier cultures that thrived in this area. The Wappo tribe, thought to be the sole inhabitants of the Napa Valley until the late 1700s, depended heavily on acorns from several oak species. Acorns were leached of their tannic acid and ground into flour, which was an important part of their diet. If you want to try cooking with acorns, check out this link where you can learn how to process these nuts. Then you can try some of the delicious acorn recipes on the site.
The April page digs deeper into oaks and their impact on cultures. In times past, people were drawn to oaks for a variety of reasons. The acorns provided food for them and their animals. The trees, often huge, provided welcome shade and protection for man and beast in summer. Because of their size and ability to be seen from long distances, oaks were often used as monuments and landmarks or boundary markers.
The May page looks at the habitat that oaks support. Oak woodlands nourish “at least 300 vertebrate species (including at least 120 mammal, 147 bird and 60 reptile and amphibian species); 1,100 plant species; 370 fungal species; and 5,000 arthropod species (insects and mites).” Yikes.
The June content explores a typical situation in Napa County: oaks and vineyards living in harmony. Oaks provide habitat for animals that keep vineyard pests at bay. And with this page on your wall, you won't forget Connelly Ranch Family Farm Day on June 15 or the Wine Country Truck and Tractor Pull on June 29.
The second half of the calendar is as handsome and informative as the first. An extensive listing of local resources on the back page is a bonus. Here you will find information and contact numbers for 19 agencies concerned with our environment, including the Land Trust, Audubon Society, Fish and Game, and the Napa County Master Gardeners.
To obtain a calendar, call the Natural Resource Conservation Service at 707-252-4188; Friends of the River at 707-254-8520; or the Watershed Information Center and Conservancy at 707-259-5936. The calendars are free, but donations are welcomed.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4221, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions?
- Author: Denise Seghesio Levine
Time for last-minute holiday shopping, and if gardeners are on your list, you are in luck. Gardeners are some of the easiest people to shop for. There is always something a gardener can use.
Gardener-friendly finds range from tiny seed packets, garden clogs and bare-root roses to big-ticket items like greenhouses. So if you are still pondering last-minute gifts, consider some of these for inside and out.
More gardeners every year are embracing old-fashioned culinary skills and learning how to preserve their harvests. Canning jars, canning supplies and cookbooks about preserving and canning are more available than ever and welcomed by new and seasoned canners alike. Responding to the renewed interest in home preserving, merchants now stock beautiful jars, BPA-free canning lids and a plethora of pickling and preserving books. Little items like decorative labels for pantry jars are fun and useful, too.
For gardeners and cooks who are ready to move beyond basic water-bath canning, consider surprising them with a pressure canner. These devices process low-acid foods that cannot be safely preserved by the water-bath method. For example, you can process plain tomatoes with salt and lemon juice in a water-bath canner, but you need a pressure canner to process tomato sauce with onions or mushrooms. Pressure canners are easy and safe to use and expand the gardener's ability to safely stock the pantry with produce from the garden. Regardless of what kind of home preserving you or your gardening friends do, follow the directions and processing times recommended by the USDA onits website and in its publications.
Compost buckets for collecting kitchen waste are now as fanciful and decorative as cookie jars—a good choice for any home composter tired of fruit flies hovering over the scraps on their way to the compost pile. Sure, there are utilitarian metal buckets, but you can also find ceramic compost keepers in a wide palette of colors, or more whimsical buckets that look like heads of romaine lettuce. Simple compost keepers are just good-sized lidded containers, while more expensive versions have replaceable charcoal filters to help keep odor down.
Compost thermometers can help dedicated composters monitor the temperature of their compost piles. Keeping a pile hot is essential for breaking down pathogens and killing weed seeds in compost. You can find these thermometers in garden-supply and hardware stores. For an aspiring composter, consider purchasing a home compost system. There are many types to choose from.
Every gardener can use another good reference book in his or her library. Noteworthy possibilities include one updated classic and a new local publication.
Sunset has recently reissued its popular Western Garden Book. First published 80 years ago, this gardening bible has been completely revised and updated for the ninth edition. Sunset has refreshed and expanded its compendium to meet gardeners' evolving needs. This ninth edition includes new sections on edible landscapes and fire-wise gardens, as well as information on wall and roof gardens.
Field Guide to Mushrooms of Western North America by R. Michael Davis, Robert Sommer and John A. Menge (University of California Press) will be treasured by wild-mushroom enthusiasts. Davis teaches plant pathology and mushroom identification and culture at the University of California at Davis. Sommer and Mengeare emeritus professors at Davis. The three have compiled primary descriptions and illustrations of 300 species of mushrooms, plus text-only descriptions of many more. For “shroomers,” this is a helpful new addition to the field-guide section of the bookshelf.
Of course, a wonderful gift for Napa Valley gardeners is A Month-by-Month Guide to Gardening in Napa County, written by U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County. For tree lovers or anyone re-doing a landscape, consider Trees of Napa Valley by John Hoffman and illustrated by local Master Gardeners. Hoffman, now deceased, was a professional arborist and Napa resident. You can order both books online at http://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgnapa/Gardening_Books/Our_Books/.
For gardeners who anxiously await the first hint of spring to start their gardening season, consider a soil thermometer. These devices take the guesswork out of when to plant. Just insert the thermometer into the soil as directed to know if your seeds are likely to sprout, or rot waiting for warmer soil. The same gardeners might also appreciate some floating row cover to extend the season or a mini-hothouse to get a jump on planting.
Seeds and plants make wonderful gifts, too. Illustrated seed packets are wonderful stocking stuffers. You can choose quick-growing crops like radishes for little people, or something exotic for the gardener ready for a new challenge. Bare-root roses and fruit trees are good choices, as are gift certificates to a favorite garden center.
Ask Master Gardeners what they want for Christmas, and quite a few will tell you they would like a truckload of compost. I know that is what I am getting. I just don't know if there will be a bow on it.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners (http://cenapa.ucdavis.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4221, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions?
