- Author: Cindy Watter, UC Master Gardener of Napa County
By Cindy Watter, UC Master Gardener of Napa County
For me, the great question at the plant nursery these days is whether to buy the little plant or the big one. The small ‘Hot Lips' salvias I bought two years ago are fat and fluffy and covered with flowers today. But when you are on the shady side of seventy, you question the value of deferred gratification. As the White Queen said to Alice in Through The Looking-Glass, "The rule is, jam tomorrow and jam yesterday but never jam today." I recently decided to go for the jam today and bought three 5-gallon ceanothus shrubs.
Of course, the very next day I ran into a UC Master Gardener who reminded me that sometimes the big pots can be rootbound, and the compacted roots will stay that way once planted. Sure enough, one of the ceanothus had the twirlies (roots completely entangled in a circle), so I plunked the decanted plant into a bucket of water to loosen the roots, used my fingers to pull them apart, and spread them out in the hole I dug. That was a few days ago and it seems fine.
My new ceanothus ‘Concha' is a hybrid of a California native plant. There are 46 native ceanothus. These are hardy evergreen shrubs that come in several shapes. Some grow over eight feet tall and some spread like groundcover. Colors vary but blue is the most common. Because of that, the plant's nickname is "California lavender."
Ceanothus requires little care once established. I chose this sun-loving plant because my location is sunny, and the plant is robust enough to challenge aggressive blackberry vine. Ceanothus is pretty and attractive to bees, and its seeds will be food for birds later on.
However, the main reason I am planting ceanothus is because, like most native plants, it needs little water to flourish. It cannot be stated too often: we are in a water crisis. That doesn't mean we are limited to river rocks and succulents in our landscaping. By planting California natives and Mediterranean plants (such as lavender and rosemary), we can have beautiful yards and still save water. A yard full of wildflowers uses only 10 to 20 percent of the water needed to maintain a lawn of the same size.
Ceanothus also improves soil health. It is a nitrogen-fixing plant, meaning it adds nitrogen to the soil. It performs this feat thanks to its symbiotic relationship with Frankia, a benign bacterium that lives in its root nodules.
A plant that attracts bees, provides food for birds, feeds the soil and has low water needs is an excellent plant for the California home landscape. What's not to like?
Planting ceanothus couldn't be easier. Just put it in a hole about twice as wide as the root ball and the same depth. The root crown should be an inch or so above the surrounding soil as it will eventually settle. You don't want your plant to be sunken as it can get waterlogged and maybe even drown.
Because ceanothus is a native, you don't need to amend the soil (with one exception, see below). In fact, it does well in poor soil. While it can go weeks without watering once established, it should have some water the first year.
Put some compost around the base of the ceanothus after planting and cover with much but don't let mulch touch the trunk. Shredded redwood bark—as fine as hair—and rotted leaves are good mulches for this plant, as those materials are found in the wild. The compost and mulch will keep water from evaporating too quickly in the first year.
The first watering of the plant is the most important. Ten gallons is not too much. You want to break down any air holes that might be around the roots.
Greg Rubin and Lucy Warren, authors of The Drought-Defying California Garden, suggest adding mycorrhizal inoculum—a type of fungus—to soil when you plant your ceanothus. "Myco" refers to fungus and "rhiza" to roots. The inoculum stimulates the Frankia to produce nitrogen, and it helps ceanothus succeed in harsh conditions. Many ceanothus already contain the inoculum but you can buy it, too. Follow the package directions.
Once your ceanothus is established it will be easy to care for. In fact, it practically cares for itself and will reward you with the native bees and birds it attracts.
What is the downside to planting a large ceanothus? You have to dig a really big hole. Actually, I had to dig three big holes. I had forgotten the most astonishing bit about getting older: Two years will go by in the blink of an eye, and the smaller plants can surpass the big ones in size by that time. Time's wingèd chariot has its good points.
Workshop: Join the UC Master Gardeners of Napa County for a hands-on workshop on “Garden Pest Management” on Saturday, April 30, from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.,. at Las Flores Community Center, 4300 Linda Vista Avenue, Napa. Bring gloves and wear gardening attire. Event will be canceled in the event of rain. Registration required or register at
https://bit.ly/3v8a7Y7.
Got Garden Questions? Contact our Help Desk. The team is working remotely so please submit your questions through our diagnosis form, sending any photos to mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org or leave a detailed message at 707- 253-4143. A Master Gardener will get back to you by phone or email. For more information visit https://napamg.ucanr.edu or find us on Facebook or Instagram, UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
By Penny Pawl, UC Master Gardener of Napa County
Ceanothus is ideal for use in our Napa Valley gardens. The plant is native to California and very drought-tolerant once established. There are almost 50 species in our state and most are evergreen. It blooms all summer with lilac-like blossoms. Among the many types of Ceanothus, also called California lilac, are ground covers and bushes, with both white and blue blooms.
After the first year, Ceanothus does not need to be watered. More Ceanothus have been killed by too much water than not enough. This plant does not need to be loved to death. I was given a Ceanothus sonomensis by a friend on Atlas Peak and I knew it was rare and I did love it to death. After the fire on Atlas Peak in 2017, many seedlings of this species sprouted and there is hope it will survive. It occurs in only one place in Napa County.
Ceanothus is a Greek word meaning “spiny plant.” While most of the species are in California, Ceanothus are also found throughout the West all the way to the Rocky Mountains and as far south as Guatemala. In California they grow from near sea level to an elevation of 9000 feet.
If you decide to include Ceanothus in your landscape, learn what keeps this plant happy and what type of plants make good companions. Ceanothus want a sunny location with well-draining soil. Do you want a ground cover or a tall bush or even a small tree? Most Ceanothus appreciate mulch around the root area and some fertilizer occasionally. If possible, provide a sheltered spot away from harsh winds.
I found excellent information on Ceanothus in Gardening in Summer-Dry Climates by Nora Harlow and Saxon Holt. The book tells you where each type originated and the zone where it does best. I recommend this book to everyone who wants a drought-tolerant garden. Napa Valley's USDA Zone is 9 and our Sunset Zone is 14.
Like legumes, Ceanothus are nitrogen-fixing plants. They pull nitrogen out of the air and transfer it to their roots. A bacterium then transfers this nitrogen to the soil. In contrast, many crops take nitrogen out of the soil and the nitrogen has to be replenished with fertilizer. Nitrogen-fixing plants like clovers, lupines, beans and peas are planted in late fall to help keep the soil healthy.
Companion plants for Ceanothus should have the same care requirements. Consider drought-tolerant California natives such as lamb's ears (Stachys byzantina), lavender, and any of the many varieties of sage and sedum. Even if we get a reprieve from the drought with a wet winter, lack of rain is a long-term issue in our area. So plan your garden carefully, wait for autumn to plant and then hope for rain.
Free Guided Tree Walk: Join Master Gardeners of Napa County for a tree walk in Fuller Park in Napa on Tuesday, July 13, from 10 a.m. to noon. Limited to 12 people per walk. COVID safety protocols will be followed. You will be asked health questions and asked to sign in. Face masks and social distancing are required. Register here.
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will conduct a workshop on “The Art of Growing Succulents” on Saturday, July 17, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. via Zoom. Learn how to care for these unique, colorful and unthirsty members of the plant community. Register here: http://ucanr.edu/2021SucculentsJuly
Napa Library Talk: Napa County Master Gardeners will give a talk on “Planning a Moon Garden” on Thursday, August 5, from 7 p.m. to 8 p.m. via Zoom. Learn about this ancient nocturnal garden theme and pick up some design tips. Register at http://ucanr.edu/2021AugMoonGarden.
Food Growing Forum: Napa CountyMaster Gardeners will present a discussion of “Herbs and Starting Winter Vegetables by Seed” on Sunday, August 8, from 3 p.m. to 4 p.m., via Zoom. Register to receive the Zoom link: http://ucanr.edu/2021/FoodForumAug
Got Garden Questions? Contact our Help Desk. The team is working remotely so please submit your questions through our diagnosis form, sending any photos to mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org or leave a detailed message at 707- 253-4143. A Master Gardener will get back to you by phone or email.
For more information visit http://napamg.ucanr.edu or find us on Facebook or Instagram, UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
By Susanne von Rosenberg, UC Master Gardener of Napa County
One of the things that I like most about spring is the beauty of flowering trees. It's just stunning to see a magnolia or almond tree in full bloom. Flowering trees are really one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to beautify your yard, and you get the added benefit of shade in the summer.
You have two primary options for flowering trees. You can plant fruit or nut trees, or you can plant ornamental flowering trees. Fruit trees will require more care, because in addition to keeping the tree pruned properly, you also need to manage the fruit load and potentially address pests and diseases. For me, the extra effort is worth it.
The size of the tree should be in proportion to the size of your lot. For parcels smaller than a quarter-acre, choose trees that will be less than 25 feet high at maturity.
Plant trees away from the foundation of your home. Even smaller trees that will be less than 25 feet tall at maturity should be planted at least 10 feet away from the foundation.
Find out how wide the tree canopy will be at maturity and allow for a gap between the side of the house and the canopy. Plant smaller trees at least 25 feet from other small trees. Your tree needs at least 100 square feet free of hardscape.
Think about where the mature tree will cast shade. Be sensitive to how the tree might affect your neighbors' view and access to sunlight. Utilities are another consideration. We've all learned not to plant trees under power lines, but you also want to avoid areas close to sewer, septic or water lines and septic tanks and leach fields. Don't plant your tree over other underground utilities either. Electrical lines, gas lines and fiber-optic cables can all be affected by tree roots. Your tree might have to be removed if it impedes maintenance or repair activities.
Finally, choose your tree carefully. Fast-growing trees may seem desirable, but they often end up getting too tall or dying quickly. Before you purchase any tree, make sure that it's not considered invasive in Napa County. Also, find out whether the tree you want may serve as a host for diseases affecting other trees. For example, ornamental pears are often affected by fire blight and serve as a repository of the bacteria. Fire blight is the biggest threat to the health of pear, apple and quince trees.
Some of the best flowering trees for Napa County include almonds, cherries, nectarines, peaches and plums. All are beautiful in bloom. Many small, purely ornamental trees also do well in our area.
All of the following trees are less than 25 feet tall at maturity. Most are considered “patio trees,” meaning that they usually grow less than 15 feet tall. Many of them naturally grow as tall shrubs and can be trained into a tree form. Most of them are also drought tolerant once established.
Australian tea tree (Leptospermum laevigatum) grows 10 to 30 feet tall, is evergreen, and is covered by long-lasting white flowers. New Zealand tea tree (Leptospermum scoparium) cultivars are usually smaller, ranging from 6 to 8 feet in height, and come in colors ranging from white to pink to magenta.
Ceanothus, also called California lilac, includes 50 to 60 species of nitrogen-fixing shrubs and small trees. The cultivar ‘Ray Hartman' can grow 20 feet tall and has medium blue flowers. However, most cultivars are much shorter.
Chitalpa (Chiltalpa x taskentensis) generally tops out at less than 25 feet tall. It has grayish-white bark and tolerates a relatively wide range of soils. The flowers of the two most common cultivars are white to very light pink, and light pink.
Desert Catalpa (Chilopsis linearis) has narrow linear leaves and fragrant flowers ranging from white to pink to lavender. It grows 10 to 30 feet tall and with age develops shaggy bark and a twisting trunk.
Feijoa sellowiana (pineapple guava) is an evergreen, has gray-green foliage and beautiful flowers with edible white petals and red centers. The tree flowers in late spring and yields guava-like fruit in the fall. It can grow 10 to 15 feet tall.
Western redbud (Cercis occidentalis) grows 10 to 20 feet tall and has pink or magenta flowers. It is native to California and other parts of the West and prefers moister areas to hot, dry areas.
One of my favorite small trees is California Flannelbush (Fremontodedron californicum). It has bright yellow flowers and can grow up to 20 feet tall in five years. It is finicky about water so make sure you can meet its needs before planting one.
Free Library Talk: UC Master Gardeners of Napa County will conduct a talk on “Growing Culinary Herbs” via Zoom on June 3 from 7 pm to 8 pm. Register to receive the zoom link: http://ucanr.edu/2021JuneGrowHerbs
Workshop: UC Master Gardeners of Napa County will lead a free workshop on “Worm Composting” on Saturday, June 12, from 10 am to noon, via Zoom.
Learn how to turn your kitchen scraps into rich compost with red worms. All attendees will receive all the materials necessary to make a worm compost bin at home. Pick-up arrangements will be made after you register; limit one bin per family. Register for "Worm Composting with Penny at City of Napa Home Composting Workshops
Got Garden Questions? Contact our Help Desk. The team is working remotely so please submit your questions through our diagnosis form, sending any photos to mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org or leave a detailed message at 707- 253-4143. A Master Gardener will get back to you by phone or email.
For more information visit http://napamg.ucanr.edu or find us on Facebook or Instagram, UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
By Donna Woodward, UC Master Gardener of Napa County
When I moved to our property on Dry Creek Road in Napa in 2009, I found myself in a house in the middle of a meadow surrounded by forest. The house looked bare sitting there in a grassy field. I wanted to add some color and make it look more inviting.
Due to the natural setting, I thought native plants would be ideal. I joined the California Native Plant Society and went to its fall and spring plant sales. My watchwords were “drought tolerant” and “deer resistant.”
We have all heard the praises of water-wise gardening. It saves precious water and requires less attention from the gardener. The use of native plants accomplishes these goals and fits right into my aesthetic.
Not surprisingly, the native plants were easy to grow and, once established, thrived and spread. Our house had one large blank wall that I wanted to cover, so I planted a climbing wild rose on a trellis just in front of the wall. That rose quickly filled the space and more.
The same is true of a wild clematis that I planted around our deck. It climbed up over the deck railing and spread via runners in all directions. Also thriving within a few feet of the house are a flowering currant, a ceanothus bush and monkey flower plants. Eventually I broke down and planted some non-natives as well—rock rose and lavender, among others—still opting for drought-tolerant plants.
None of the problems with plant growth or spreading really concerned me until the fires of October 2017. I was suddenly made aware of the dangers of living in a WUI (pronounced wooey).
In case you aren't familiar with this acronym, it stands for Wildland Urban Interface. As Napa Valley has grown, more properties have been developed in the surrounding woodlands. It's a wonderful life. You live in the midst of nature with privacy and peace and quiet, yet you are still within a short drive to town.
However, you also live with the possibility of wildfire. We were lucky in 2017. The Nunns fire crept slowly up Mt. Veeder before reaching our woods. Our home was spared, thanks to the firefighters who camped in our meadow.
Later we visited the devastation in the Atlas Peak area. That was an example of a wildfire fanned by high winds and low humidity. The tales of narrow escapes, and the stories of some who didn't make it, were heart-wrenching. The wreckage was horrifying.
Year after year the Dry Creek-Lakoya Volunteer Fire Department and its offshoot, the Mt. Veeder Fire Safe Council, had been warning us through meetings and seminars about keeping the areas around our homes clear of vegetation, but I hadn't wanted to hear it. Surely I can have a flower garden. What do they expect? A concrete block of a house in the middle of a bare field?
After seeing what a wind-whipped wildfire can do, I finally realized it was time to reconsider my gardens. The problem is that drought-tolerant plants are more likely to be woody. Woody shrubs often send out new growth while the undergrowth dries up and the hidden leaves die. They look lush from the outside, but they can hide a large quantity of dead stems and foliage underneath.
In a wind-driven fire the biggest danger to your home is flying embers. These embers can ignite anything flammable that is in contact with the house. If you have woody bushes near the house, these can ignite and burn hot enough to set fire to the house. Also, anything that sheds dry leaves or needles can cause a buildup of those materials around stairs, in eaves and corners. These conditions contribute to high fire danger.
The Mt. Veeder Fire Safe Council sponsors free evaluations of homes for fire safety (mountveederfiresafe.org). They visited our home and gave advice on hardening our house against fire. Once the undergrowth problem was pointed out to me, I was shocked to discover so much dead material within the large ceanothus next to the house. It could have made a bonfire. I pruned out all of the undergrowth.
Similar conditions were found within the rock rose shrubs. I found that I could cut those down to the ground in summer and they would put out new growth that could be kept short throughout the fire season.
We are currently working on moving all plants away from the house and installing several feet of hardscape around the walls. In hindsight I wish I had not planted some of the spreading plants, especially the wild rose and clematis. Controlling them is an ongoing battle.
You can find specific recommendations about landscaping for fire safety at the Napa Fire Wise website, napafirewise.org Look under Preparedness, then Landscaping. The website also has links to many other tips for protecting your home. You can also find contact information for your local Fire Safe Council.
Also check out firesafemarin.org website it has a great evacuation check list you can review and print out.
Fire season is here again and there is a lot of support for homeowners. Whether you live in the country or in town, the danger is real, but there are steps you can take to protect your property.
Join Napa County Master Gardeners at the Food Growing Forum by zoom on Sunday, August 30, from 3 p.m. to 4 p.m., for a free discussion on “Growing Winter Vegetables.” This forum on food growing will continue monthly on the last Sunday of every month, with different topics every time. To receive the Zoom link for the Food Growing Forums, register at http://ucanr.edu/FoodGrowingForum2020. And see our website calendar at napamg.ucanr.edu for other upcoming events.
The UC Master Gardeners of Napa County are volunteers who provide University of California research-based information on home gardening. To find out more about home gardening or upcoming programs, visit the Master Gardener website (napamg.ucanr.edu). Our office is temporarily closed but we are answering questions remotely and by email. Send your gardening questions to mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org or leave a phone message at 707-253-4143 and a Master Gardener will respond shortly.
By Marcy Nielsen-Berruezo, U.C. Master Gardener of Napa County
It happens every year. There's a moment when suddenly I notice that the light has changed. Days are shorter and shadows are longer. Chinese pistache trees begin to turn color and the squirrels in my garden go nuts.
This is the time when savvy California gardeners perk up as it's prime time for planting in our Mediterranean climate. Planting in September and October, while the ground is still warm and rain is on its way (we fervently hope), allows new plantings to establish roots. By settling in now, these new plants will be ready for the flush of growth in spring.
Many California native plants are actually dormant in summer. Fall planting lets you enjoy their emergence from dormancy into winter growth and bloom.
I tend to use my own garden as a laboratory, researching plants and testing them to see how they do. As the drought lingers and we become more aware of the need to support the ecosystem in our gardens (and not just in the wild), I've been increasingly going native.
My goal: A garden that offers year-round beauty with minimal use of resources (water, fertilizer and the sweat of my brow). I also want a landscape that maximizes support for local native flora and fauna, including me.
I've made mistakes. I've underestimated how big a happy native plant can get and I've misjudged what happens when I over- or under-water a native. But I love seeing the change of seasons, the buzz of life and the splashes of color in my garden all year. All I need to do to nurture that rhythm is to clean up twice a year.
Many of us have responded to drought by reducing irrigation or eliminating turf in our landscapes. But drought or no drought, California has arid summers and probably always will. According to the Association of California Water Agencies, more than 50 percent of residential water use takes place outdoors. The federal Environmental Protection Agency estimates that half of that water is wasted by inefficient and unnecessary delivery.
Plants adapted to our rainfall and temperature patterns need little or no irrigation once they're established. The University of California, in collaboration with top landscape professionals and horticulturists, has developed the Water Use Classification of Landscape Species. This online database is a useful tool for determining the actual water needs of the plants commonly used in California landscapes, grouping them by region and type.
The database gives most of our native plants two irrigation designations, one for the cool season and one for the warm season. California mountain lilac (Ceanothus species) is classified as M/L, for moderate water in winter and low water during the warm months. California fuchsia (Epilobium canum) is classified as L/VL, adapted to low water in winter and very low water in summer.
In most settings, an established native plant needs (and wants) no additional water unless winter rain is scarce. Wet soil in summer can trigger oak root fungus (Armillaria mellea) and other soil-borne pathogens that can kill a stressed plant or shorten its lifespan.
A few native plants can tolerate or even benefit from occasional supplemental water in summer, and some enjoy a light hosing off (think summer shower in the foothills) or a deeper drink once a month or so. But don't overdo it. When planting, try to group plants with similar needs for sunlight, drainage and water.
In deciding where to place natives in your garden, picture where they grow in the natural landscape. California has a wide range of habitats and ecosystems, elevations and soils. A plant adapted to a shady streambed or redwood forest will have different needs than one adapted to open oak savannah or dry chaparral. Finding or creating the microclimate they like will help native plants live a long, healthy life.
Native plants have evolved to resist local pests and diseases, reducing the need for pesticides or other interventions. In fact, beneficial insect species have evolved along with the natives, timing their egg-laying and brood-hatching to munch on pesky invaders.
You may need to put up with a few chewed or distorted new leaves until the beneficial species tie on their little capes and swoop to the rescue. A little toleration goes a long way in letting a garden find its ecological balance. If you must intervene, use Integrated Pest Management (IPM) practices for the least intrusive approach. Look online (http://ipm.ucanr.edu/) for the University of California's IPM recommendations.
Consider leaving some seed heads, berries and dormant vegetation to provide food and shelter for over-wintering birds and beneficial insects. You'll enjoy the life and movement in your garden and nature will thank you.
Choose plants that bring year-round interest, varying bloom times or offering winter leaf color and berries. Know each plant's mature size before planting. Less pruning means less work for you, less stress for the plant and less waste in the recycling stream.
Include a diversity of species to more closely mimic nature and make it less likely that pests will thrive. Notice what thrives in your area. If a plant is happy in nature and you can replicate that environment in your garden, you can bring the feel of nature home.
Native Plant Sale: U.C. Master Gardeners of Napa will have an information table at the California Native Plant Society Napa Chapter's plant sale on Saturday, October 15, and Sunday, October 16, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., at Skyline Park in Napa. The preview party for CNPS members and guests is Friday, October 14, from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m., at Skyline Park.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
