By Susanne von Rosenberg, UC Master Gardener of Napa County

January is a great time of year to plant strawberries in Napa Valley, regardless of online recommendations to plant them in the spring, late summer or early fall.

Strawberries come in three types: June bearing, day neutral and everbearing. June-bearing strawberries set one heavy crop in late spring, typically starting in mid-May in our area for the early varieties. They produce most of their berries in a window of 10 to 14 days, and they tolerate hot temperatures. June-bearing strawberries come in early-, mid-, and late-season varieties. The late-season varieties start fruiting about two weeks after the early varieties.

Day-neutral varieties will fruit as long as the day length is 12 hours or more and temperatures remain between 40°F and 90°F. Despite their name, everbearing strawberries will produce a fairly heavy crop in late spring and again in early fall. They may produce a third crop in mid-summer in mild summer areas.

Sources disagree about which type of strawberry plants produce the biggest berries. But unless you want large berries for decorative reasons, don't let size affect your choice as it has no correlation to flavor.

Many strawberry varieties do well in our area. In 2012, the Master Gardeners did a field trial of three varieties, and Albion (a day-neutral variety) performed best. Sequoia (an everbearing variety that can produce all season in mild climates) also did fairly well, but Quinault, a popular everbearing variety, performed poorly.

Other good day-neutral varieties include Seascape and Selva. The latter is notable for its large berries. Good June-bearing varieties include Chandler, Jewel, Camarosa and Ventana.

Not surprisingly, catalogs tend to describe all the varieties as having great flavor, so just experiment and see which you prefer. One source said Jewel had an “exotic tropical fruit flavor.” Camarosa and Chandler are said to produce large yields.

Everbearing varieties seem to be losing ground to day-neutral varieties. To make matters more confusing, a lot of catalogs and online sources use those terms interchangeably, although they clearly aren't the same.

Look for certified disease-free, bare-root plants from a local nursery. Big-box stores sometimes have six-packs of strawberry plants, but often with no indication of variety. Think twice about buying these as you won't know if they're suited to our climate, or when the plants will bear fruit.

Strawberry plants will produce the year you plant them and will typically have their best crop the following season. After that, production will decline. Expect to replant about every three years. You can grow your own new plants from runners. June-bearing plants will produce the most runners, whereas everbearing and day-neutral varieties put more of their energy into producing fruit.

If you don't want to grow replacement plants, cut off the runners because they take energy from fruit production. It's also best to cut off runners in the first year to help the plants get established. Leaving a few runners to fill bare spots is okay.

Strawberry plants need at least eight hours of sunlight a day. Don't plant them where you recently grew members of the Solanaceae family, such as tomatoes, eggplants, peppers and potatoes. All these plants are susceptible to verticillium wilt, a fungal disease. By rotating where you plant Solanaceae, you can keep the fungus from getting established in the soil.

Slugs and snails are the primary pests of strawberries. Pick them off by hand, or use an iron phosphate-based bait. These baits are non-toxic to other animals. Strawberries can also suffer from nutrient deficiencies. (I had an issue with lack of boron.) Check online sources if your berries look odd.

Plant your plants so that the crown (center growing point) is just above the soil level. Strawberries need regular water, especially during fruit-bearing season. Use drip irrigation with emitters at least two inches away from the plant to minimize the risk of fungal disease. Keep the soil moist—strawberries are shallow-rooted—but let the top of the plant dry out between waterings to avoid rot. Don't plant strawberries near irrigated lawn or where they might be watered by overhead sprinklers.

Strawberries like well-drained soil. Raised beds with 12 to 18 inches of soil are ideal, or mound up your garden soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you are growing strawberries in a container, be sure they have 12 inches of soil as well. Those special strawberry planter pots are attractive but often not that effective because they don't hold enough soil. Use them for growing annual herbs instead.

Strawberries do not need a lot of fertilizer. One application of a slow-release or organic fertilizer at planting time is adequate for the first season. Fertilize again in late summer or early fall for the following year.

Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will host a workshop on “Pruning and Plant ID” on Saturday, January 29, from 10 a..m. to noon at Las Flores Community Center, 4300 Linda Vista Avenue, Napa. Bring gloves and wear gardening attire for this hands-on workshop. To register: https://ucanr.edu/2022JanLasFloresLearningGardenPruning

Library Talk: Napa County Master Gardeners will give a talk on “Creative Cucurbits: Loofahs and More” on Thursday, February 3, from 7 pm to 8 pm. Save room in the garden for some crazy cucurbits and learn how to prepare them for your own use or as gifts. Register to receive the Zoom link at https://ucanr.edu/2022FebCucurbits.

Got Garden Questions? Contact our Help Desk. The team is working remotely so please submit your questions through our diagnosis form, sending any photos to mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org or leave a detailed message at 707- 253-4143. A Master Gardener will get back to you by phone or email.

For more information visit https://napamg.ucanr.edu

By Susanne von Rosenberg, UC Master Gardener of Napa County

As a gardener, you are doubtlessly painfully aware of how little rainfall we had during our last rainy season. According to the United States Drought Monitor, Napa (along with more than 50% of the entire state) is currently in an exceptional (category D3) drought.

Some counties have already imposed water conservation requirements. We can count on Napa County and its cities having to do so as well.

During an exceptional drought, fire season lasts year-round. Water is inadequate for agriculture, wildlife and urban needs, and reservoirs are extremely low. In addition, our soils are already pretty dry and cannot serve as a reservoir for our plants in the late spring and early summer, as they normally do.

So, knowing that water conservation requirements are coming, your plants need irrigation sooner than they would during a normal rain year. As a good steward of the planet, what can you do to better prepare your garden to use less water?

In addition to continuing to make your garden more water-wise in general, you can take specific steps now to reduce the water needs of your garden. Make yourself a checklist and make May your drought-preparedness month.

Two of the easiest things you can do to use less water are to mulch your garden and to move to drip irrigation wherever possible. Before you mulch any part of your garden that isn't currently mulched, make sure that you water well so that the soil is moist below the mulch. Then install drip irrigation, and mulch over the drip irrigation, if possible. If you install irrigation over the mulch, water will have to moisten the mulch first before it can penetrate to the soil.

If you are currently hand watering or using sprinklers, installing drip irrigation will help ensure that the only the plants that need water are getting it. You can easily install a drip system yourself. Drip irrigation waters slowly, which means the water has time to penetrate the soil. You save water by preventing run-off and evaporation, and you get fewer weeds.

Then make sure you only water when necessary. For annuals and shallow-rooted perennials, it's time to water when the soil is dry two inches down. For trees, you can wait until the soil is dry at least six inches down. Get to know your plants and understand what signs of water stress look like.

Given that we are in an exceptional drought, the more you do to conserve water in your garden, the better. Another important tool in water conservation during a drought is to prune your trees hard. Preserve leaf canopy that provides shade to your house and other plants but reduce the size of ornamental and fruit trees that don't provide a direct shade benefit.

The smaller the tree, the less water it will need. You can safely prune back fruit trees by one-third. If you expose any limbs that have previously been shaded by leaves, paint them with white interior latex paint (diluted with an equal amount of water) to protect them against sunburn. You should also thin fruit on fruit trees to reduce water demand and get better fruit.

You can reduce the water needs of delicate plants by creating afternoon shade for them. Install shade cloth or other materials to block the afternoon sun.

Think about what parts of your garden are most important to you. You may have to decide not to water certain plants. What are your priorities? You'll probably want to focus on saving perennial plants, especially trees. Although I have a vegetable garden, I would definitely let that go in favor of watering my fruit trees.

You can also rethink your garden. Are there parts that are particularly thirsty? Maybe this is the year to remove those plants, and plan to replant in the fall with more drought-adapted plants.

If you have any unneeded lawn, consider replacing it. Stop watering it and work on a replacement plan to implement in the fall.

Delay any new plantings until we get adequate rain unless the new plantings will require considerably less water than what they are replacing.

Finally, know that your perennials can survive on less-than-optimal amounts of water. When plants lack water, they conserve by closing the stomata (openings) in their leaves that allow water to evaporate. Photosynthesis stops because the plant is no longer getting any carbon dioxide from the air. The result is that the plant won't grow as much as it would with optimal water. Let it catch up in a wetter year.

I encourage you to start now to conserve water, doing your share to help make sure we have enough water to go around.

Food Growing Forum: On Sunday, May 9, UC Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a discussion on “Beans and Summer Pruning of Fruit Trees” from 3 p.m. to 4 p.m. Register to get the Zoom link.

Library Talk: On Thursday, May 6, from 7 pm to 8 pm, UC Master Gardeners of Napa County will hold a virtual talk on “Right Tree, Right Place: Making Smart Tree Choices for Your Landscape.” Register to get the Zoom link: http://ucanr.edu/2021MayRtTreeRtPlace

Tree Walk: On Tuesday, May 11, from 10 am to noon, UC Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a docent-guided tree walk in Fuller Park in Napa. Group size is limited to seven. To register: https://bit.ly/2Qg3tib

Got Garden Questions? Contact our Help Desk. The team is working remotely so please submit your questions through our diagnosis form, sending any photos to mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org or leave a detailed message at 707- 253-4143. A Master Gardener will get back to you by phone or email.

By Susanne von Rosenberg, UC Master Gardener of Napa County

When I first moved to Napa 14 years ago, autumn rains arrived fairly reliably around the middle of October. As we are all painfully aware now, autumn rains have been starting later and later…and sometimes not at all.

There is no rain in the near-term forecast, and the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Climate Predictions Center foresees a 33 percent chance of below-normal rainfall through November coupled with a 60 percent chance of above-normal temperatures. The longer-term prediction for our area is for slightly below-normal rainfall.

The change in rainfall pattern we've been experiencing, with rains coming later than they used to, is consistent with what climate-change models predict. While we can expect roughly the same amount of rain, we will wait longer for it and it will come in fewer, more intense events.

So we need to get used to longer dry seasons. On the other hand, we need to be prepared for heavy rains. How should we adjust our gardening practices to address this change?

Let's talk about an extended dry season first. It's definitely a good idea to continue all the water- conservation practices that we instituted during the last drought. Choose drought-tolerant plants, including natives that are adapted to summer-dry climates. Install proper irrigation systems, such as drip irrigation, to water only those plants that truly need it and in the amount they truly need.

Adjust your watering according to the season. With cooler, shorter autumn days, plants require less water, even if it isn't raining. Mulch your plants to keep the soil cool and reduce evaporation.

We also need to reconsider our fall watering habits. It used to be possible to stop watering trees by late August and many other plants by mid-September. With the change in climate, you now need to continue to water until the rains finally arrive. Also consider our fall heat and low-humidity periods. Look for signs that your plants need water. Drooping leaves and/or dull leaves are two primary indicators. Get to know how your plants show they are thirsty.

How much and how often should you water with this new climate? For annual plants, simply test the soil with your finger. If the soil feels moist one to two inches down, you do not need to water yet. Keep checking and you'll soon have a sense how much water your plants need in this cooler season and how quickly they dry out when we get Diablo winds.

For trees, you can either dig down six inches to see if the soil is dry (this is the best way to check), or simply extend the time between watering. If you were watering your trees once a month in the summer, you might wait five to six weeks for the next round, and then six to seven weeks (mid- to late November) for the next round. Still no rain by New Year's? It might be time to water again! Even our native and other drought-tolerant plants may need supplemental water when rains are delayed.

More frequent heavy rains are another outcome of climate change. We will need to be able manage more rainfall on our properties. Heavy rain can damage soil structure, wash away topsoil and produce standing water in low or poor-drainage areas. You can protect your soil structure by mulching. (Yet another benefit of mulching.) Observe how water flows on your property during a heavy rain. Your goal is to slow down the flow, which you can do by spreading it out, and also by including areas where you intentionally allow the water to pool and infiltrate. Overall, the better your soil, the more rainfall it can absorb and the more water it can hold. Organic mulches do wonders to improve your soil – so, yes, keep mulching.

After a heavy rain, you may see water pooling in areas where you don't want it. In that case, you need to improve the drainage in that area. The best approach is to divert water from that area and to create additional opportunities for water to drain away. You can raise the soil level, dig small swales or create shallow berms. Small changes can make a big difference. You may also find, as I have, that as you improve the soil, your standing-water problem will diminish and eventually disappear.

Gardeners are a resilient and persistent bunch. With preparation, we can manage some of these climate-change challenges.

The UC Master Gardeners of Napa County are volunteers who provide UC research-based information on home gardening and answer your questions. To find out more about upcoming programs or to ask a garden question, visit the Master Gardener website (http://napamg.ucanr.edu) or call (707) 253-4221 between 9 a.m. and noon on Mondays, Wednesdays or Fridays.

By Susanne von Rosenberg, UC Master Gardener of Napa County

Many of us set goals at the start of a new year, and most of us give up on them fairly quickly. How about focusing on your garden this year instead? That will probably be a lot more fun than any resolution you were going to make.

Your garden intention can be an enjoyable way to improve your health and well-being and help the planet, too. Win-win-win! Set an intention rather than a goal. An intention creates a path you follow and avoids the stress of having to meet a specific expectation. After all, gardening should be enjoyable.

So what will your win-win-win garden intention be this year? Here are some ideas:

Consider making your garden more environmentally friendly:

Reduce your water use. Install drip irrigation (it's really not that hard) or focus on rainwater harvesting. Alternatively, replace some particular thirsty plants with drought-tolerant choices.

Improve your soil. Keep mulching and use organic fertilizers. Your plants and the planet will thank you.

Plant more native plants. They're beautiful and,once established, need little care.

Choose plants that support native pollinators. We need to support diversity in the pollinator population.

How about planting some plants that will help reduce your energy consumption by shading your home or its south- and west-facing windows?

Learn more about climate-friendly gardening. For example, did you know that you can help trap carbon in the soil through the right kinds of gardening practices? And these practices improve your soil, too.

Create habitat for wildlife. In addition to planting native plants and other plants to provide food for wildlife, provide water and shelter. Leave your garden a little messy; it's better for wildlife.

Replace your lawn with drought-tolerant plantings. All of the cities in Napa County have cash-for-grass programs that pay you to remove your lawn and replace it with a drought-tolerant garden.

Learn to make compost. It's the best way to recycle your yard waste and some food scraps. And if you can't make enough compos to mulch your garden, buy it from the municipal waste company.It's inexpensive and certified as a soil amendment for organic agriculture.

Learn more about your garden:

Spend more time observing it. How does the light and shade change throughout the year? Where does the rainwater flow? How does the wind affect your garden? Which critters call it home?

Track the daily high and low temperature and the rainfall in your location. You can find inexpensive gauges in most garden centers and nurseries and online. Keep a notebook or other journal to record what you observe.

Experiment with something new: new plants, new tools or new ways of taking care of your garden. Did you know that no-till gardens are the wave of the future?

Make your garden work better for you:

What are the big challenges in your garden, and what one action could you take to make the biggest dent in dealing with that challenge?

What can you do to make your garden more enjoyable? Do you need more seating? Or perhaps more shade or sun? Do you want to create a peaceful nook for meditation?

Simply spend a bit more time gardening. Fifteen minutes a day can have a big effect and will make for a relaxing break, no matter what time of day you go out.

Consider contributing fresh produce to the local Food Bank (check first to find out what is needed). This is a wonderful activity to share with kids.

Do you have grandkids or nieces and nephews? How about introducing them to the joys of gardening?

Knowledge makes you a better and more confident gardener. Check out the Master Gardener website (http://napamg.ucanr.edu/) for useful information as well as upcoming workshops and events.

Or you could simply decide to spend more time in the garden. Fresh air and being in nature are wonderful for your heart and soul. Being more at peace is a wonderful intention for the new year.

Workshop: The U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will present a workshop on “Growing Spring and Summer Vegetables” on Saturday, March 9, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at the University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Do you want nutritious, easy-to grow and utterly fresh food from your garden this spring and summer? Learn what the garden needs to successfully produce spring and summer vegetables from seeds and plant starts. In addition to growing basics and hands-on activities, this program includes watering, fertilizing and harvesting tips, with a dash of Integrated Pest Management for pest and disease control. The delight of growing your own groceries is matched only by savoring them at harvest. Online registration (credit card only); Mail-in/Walk-in registration (check only or drop off cash payment).

Workshop: The U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will present a workshop on “Summer Vegetables” on Sunday, March 10, from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m., at Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. Get tips for growing your own summer vegetables. Learn some basics, get keys to success, and do hands-on activities to learn about new varieties and review old favorites. Enjoy healthy vegetables taken straight from your garden to your table. The delight of growing your own vegetables is matched by savoring them at harvest. Online registration or telephone the Parks & Recreation Department at 707-944-8712.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County (http:/napamg.ucanr.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.