- (Public Value) UCANR: Protecting California's natural resources
- Author: Barbra Braaten
Water is essential for any garden, but it's crucial to use water wisely in a place like California, where droughts are common. Effective water management can help home gardeners keep their plants healthy while conserving this precious resource. Thoughtful water management uses resources efficiently and sustainably to meet current and future needs. It involves planning, developing, distributing, and managing the optimum use of water to ensure plants survive and look good. By conserving water, home gardeners contribute to the preservation of local ecosystems and the sustainability of the environment.
Plant Water Use
Understanding how much water your plants need is the first step in effective water management. Different plants have different water requirements. For instance, succulents and cacti need less water than vegetables or fruit trees. It's important to group plants with similar water needs together. This way, you can avoid overwatering or underwatering specific plants. You can learn about plant water needs from plant labels, gardening books, or by reaching out to your local UC Master Gardener volunteers for support. Additionally, observing your plants and learning their symptoms of water stress, such as wilting or drooping leaves, can also help inform water management.
Watering Systems
Several watering systems can help manage water use in a garden. Drip irrigation is one of the most efficient methods. It delivers water directly to the roots of plants, minimizing evaporation and runoff. Soaker hoses, porous hoses that seep water along their length, are another good option for watering garden beds. Traditional sprinklers can be used, but they are less efficient because they tend to waste water through evaporation and runoff. Newer, more advanced systems include weather-based controllers that adjust watering schedules based on weather conditions, ensuring plants get the right amount of water without waste.
Irrigation Best Practices
Take a proactive role in water conservation by adopting best practices for irrigation. Watering early in the morning or late in the evening reduces evaporation, ensuring more water reaches the plants. Mulching the garden helps retain soil moisture and reduces the need for frequent watering. Regularly checking for leaks in the irrigation system and repairing them promptly can prevent water loss. Adjusting the watering schedule based on the season and weather conditions is also essential. During cooler months or after rainfall, plants need less water; in the hot summer, they may need more frequent watering.
Use Drought Tolerant Plants
One of the most environmentally responsible ways to conserve water in a garden is to use drought-tolerant and/or native plants. Drought tolerance reflects the ability of a plant to withstand less than optimal water supplies due to adaptive or avoidance mechanisms. While many native plants possess drought-tolerant traits and require less supplemental irrigation once established, many non-native plants Mediterranean-adapted plants also thrive on relatively lower water. It is important to remember that these plants require water regularly until their root structure is well established in landscape soil. Maintaining these plants with deep and infrequent irrigation once established is a great way to reduce landscape water use. By incorporating these plants into your garden, you're also providing habitat for local wildlife. This creates a beautiful, low-maintenance landscape that thrives with less irrigation.
Best Practices for Keeping Plants Alive During a Drought
During a drought or under water restrictions, it's essential to prioritize how you use water in the garden. Focus on watering the most valuable and vulnerable plants first, such as shade trees and young trees. Slow, deep watering is more effective than frequent shallow watering. This involves watering to a depth slightly below the plant root zone which encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, making plants more drought-tolerant. Reducing the size of your lawn or replacing it with drought-tolerant ground covers can also save significant amounts of water. Additionally, using shade cloth or temporary shading can help reduce water loss by protecting plants from intense sunlight.
By understanding plant water use, choosing suitable watering systems, adopting best irrigation practices, using drought-tolerant plants, and implementing drought survival strategies, California home gardeners can maintain a healthy and beautiful garden while conserving water. Water management is beneficial for your garden and the environment, and is an especially important practice for Californians. Your conscious efforts in water management contribute to the sustainability of our environment.
To learn more please reach out to your local UC Master Gardeners Program.
- Author: Barbra Braaten
Get ready to buzz with excitement because Pollinator Week is just around the corner! This international event, celebrated from June 17-23, 2024, is all about showing our support for pollinators. Pollinators are tiny heroes responsible for so much of the food we enjoy and the health of our ecosystems. All pollinators are essential to our world, from birds and bats to bees, butterflies, and beetles.
Why Pollinators Matter
Pollinators play a crucial role in agriculture, ensuring a bountiful supply of fruits, vegetables, and nuts. They help plants reproduce, which sustains our natural resources, prevents soil erosion, and aids in carbon sequestration. Imagine losing one out of every three bites of food – that's the reality we'd face without pollinators. Unfortunately, these vital creatures are increasingly at risk, and they need our help.
Join the iNaturalist Bioblitz!
The North American Pollinator Protection Campaign (NAPPC) Pollinator Communications Taskforce hosts an exciting community science bioblitz on iNaturalist to celebrate Pollinator Week. This is your chance to become a citizen scientist and contribute to necessary research on pollinator abundance and distribution across the US, Canada, and Mexico. All you need is a smartphone and a sense of adventure!
What's a Bioblitz?
A bioblitz is a fun and educational event where people come together to survey and document as many species as possible in a specific area within a set time frame. Using the iNaturalist app, participants capture and upload photos of the pollinators they encounter. The app uses image recognition technology and community verification to help identify species, creating valuable data for scientific research. This collaborative approach promotes community science by engaging a wide range of participants in documenting biodiversity, contributing to scientific research, and creating valuable datasets, all important in the UC Master Gardener Program.
Getting Started
To participate in the Pollinator Week 2024 bioblitz, you must create an INaturalist account and profile. You can use their website or their app. Then, you can start snapping photos of pollinators you see and upload them as observations to the INaturalist site or app.
Tips for Capturing Great Pollinator Photos
Taking photos of pollinators can be a bit tricky, but with these tips, you'll be snapping like a pro in no time:
- Approach slowly: Move slowly and take multiple shots as you get closer. If you have a long lens, use it to keep a distance and avoid startling the pollinator.
- Macro lens magic: To enhance your phone camera with a macro lens, hold a magnifying glass up to it. This will help you get those close-up details.
- Mind your shadow: Watch the sun's position to ensure your shadow doesn't cover the pollinator.
- Focus is key: Make sure the entire pollinator is in focus. Adjust your camera's aperture (f-stop) to get the best depth of field, and try to position yourself on the same level as your subject.
- Fast shutter speed: Use a fast shutter speed to capture quick movements, or use your phone camera's instant capture feature.
- Multiple angles: Take photos from various angles. Side, face, and wing shots are helpful for bees and flies. For butterflies, underwing photos are best, while the topside of their wings identifies moths.
Help Scientists Identify Pollinators
Understanding how scientists identify species can enhance your contributions. For insect pollinators, clear eyes, wings, and body shape images are vital. Side and above shots can reveal important details, and capturing color patterns on the abdomen or wings is especially useful for bees, beetles, and butterflies. Antenna shape is another critical feature for identification.
When uploading your observations to iNaturalist, you'll be asked for your identification suggestions, and the app will offer its own. Knowing what you've seen can help narrow down the options, especially since some insects mimic each other!
Be a Part of Something Big
Pollinator Week is more than just a celebration – it's a call to action. By participating in the iNaturalist bioblitz, you'll be contributing to the scientific community and helping protect our precious pollinators. So grab your camera, head outside, and join the fun! Let's work together to ensure a vibrant future for our ecosystems and food supply.
For more information on supporting pollinators in your garden, check with your local UC Master Gardener Program.
- Author: Melissa G. Womack
As gardeners, we're often generous with our garden's bounty. From sharing seeds and plant trimmings to the joy of gifting homegrown fruit and vegetables, gardening is as much about community as it is about growing plants. However, in this season of sharing, we must also remember our responsibility to prevent the spread of pests and invasive species to protect California's diverse ecosystem.
First detected in California in 2008, Asian citrus psyllid (ACP) has been a concern for both commercial citrus growers and home gardeners. ACP poses a significant threat to California's citrus trees, capable of spreading the deadly huanglongbing (HLB) disease, an incurable condition that eventually kills the tree.
Detecting ACP involves looking for a few key characteristics. ACP is a tiny, mottled brown insect about the size of an aphid. Adults are typically 3 to 4 millimeters long and are identified by their distinctive body shape, where the head is narrower than the body, and they hold their wings tent-like over their bodies. They are most active during warm temperatures, and you might notice them jumping or flying when disturbed. The nymphs, the immature form of the psyllid, are yellowish-orange and secrete white, waxy tubules from the back of their abdomen.
Additionally, ACP leaves telltale signs on citrus leaves, such as twisted or curled new leaf growth. They are sap-feeders, like aphids and mealybugs, so they produce honeydew which leads to the growth of sooty mold. Regularly inspecting your citrus trees, especially the new growth, is key to early detection of ACP.
Recent updates to the USDA's Plant Protection and Quarantine citrus map highlights areas that are generally infested with ACP and those which are not. This distinction is crucial for understanding the regulations and eradication efforts in different regions across the state. To find detailed quarantine information by county or zones, visit the California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA) ACP Regulation and Quarantine Boundaries website and maps.
Looking at the map pictured above, areas in the southern region of California, south of the Grapevine or San Gabriel and Tehachapi Mountain Ranges, and as far up the coast as Santa Barbara County are considered generally infested. The CDFA does not carry out eradication efforts for ACP in these areas. In areas north of the Grapevine, an ACP detection on a residential citrus tree would trigger an eradication response from the CDFA.
As we approach the holiday season, a popular time for gardeners to share budwood for grafting, it's crucial to understand the importance of not moving citrus planting material between quarantine areas. It is especially important not to move budwood or citrus from Southern California or the Bay Area into California's Central Valley.
To aid in this effort, UC Master Gardener Program resources are available to help educate you about identifying ACP and understanding the quarantine regulations. Here are some key actions you can take:
- Only purchase new citrus trees from reputable nurseries.
- Do not accept tree cuttings or budwood from friends or family.
- After pruning or removing a citrus tree, dry out the green waste or double bag it to help ensure the green waste is disposed of appropriately.
- Control ants in and near citrus trees with bait stations. Scientists have released natural enemies of ACP in Southern California to help keep the pest in check, but ants aid ACP in evading the natural enemies.
The UC Agriculture and Natural Resources ACP website offers an interactive map tool, biological control efforts, and an online calculator for the potential costs of using insecticides. Additionally, the Statewide UC Integrated Pest Management website provides free online training for gardeners and detailed Pest Notes on ACP and HLB disease. Remember, inspecting your citrus trees is vital to prevent the spread of ACP and HLB. If you suspect an infestation, contact the CDFA Exotic Pest Hotline at 1 (800) 491-1899 or your local county agricultural commissioner.
Let's continue to share the bounties of our gardens, but let's do so responsibly, keeping our citrus trees safe and healthy. Together, we can make a difference in the fight against ACP and HLB.
The Spotted Lanternfly (SLF) is an invasive pest that poses a great threat to California's agriculture. It was first discovered in the U.S. in Pennsylvania in 2014 and has since taken the east coast by storm, causing damage to many plant species and proving to be difficult to control. Although this pest hasn't been found in California, it is important to keep an eye out to catch an invasion early.
What does the spotted lanternfly look like?
The SLF adult is about 1 inch in length with grayish wings, black spots, and red hind wings. Egg masses are laid in the fall on the east coast and resemble splotches of mud. They are often laid on smooth surfaces like branches, rocks, or outdoor furniture. Early nymphs are very small, wingless, and black with white spots. The last nymphal stage is 1/2 inch long and red with white and black markings.
What damage does the spotted lanternfly cause?
On the east coast, the spotted lanternfly's preferred host is the invasive tree-of-heaven (Ailanthus altissima), but it will also feed heavily on grapes, maples, willows, and birch trees. SLF feeds on plant sap and excretes honeydew, which can cause sooty mold to grow on leaves and fruit. It is known to kill black walnut saplings, tree-of-heaven, and grapevines. However, for most other plants SLF is considered a plant stressor and healthy plants can usually tolerate feeding.
What can you do to help keep the spotted lanternfly out?
Spotted lanternfly is easily transported to new areas as egg masses on firewood, stone, cars, and furniture. Check vehicles and trailers when traveling to areas where SLF has been confirmed. Inspect items purchased or shipped from these areas, and don't move firewood. Familiarize yourself with the various ways that SLF egg masses may appear and report any potential sightings to the CDFA Pest Hotline: 1-800-491-1899.
If you want to learn more, visit the UC IPM Spotted Lanternfly page and consider taking the California Master Gardener Spotted Lantern Fly training module.
- Author: Melissa G. Womack
Soil quality is critical to healthy plants and is a vital part of our living ecosystem. Soil is alive with organisms; their populations change depending on what is added, how the soil is used, and environmental conditions. Soil health, much like our own, is best improved gradually over time so focusing on regular or constant improvement helps achieve and sustain soil health. Do you have a soil problem in your garden? Below are some of the most common soil problems and how to fix them.
First, it is important to know what type of soil you have. According to the UC Master Gardener Handbook, good soil is 25% Air, 25% Water, 5% Organic Matter and 45% Mineral Matter. Soils are classified by the size of soil particles. Soil Particles range from large or “Sandy” to medium or “Loamy” to very fine or “Clay” with Loam being considered the best for growing plants. Get to know your soil and soil type with tips from the UC Master Gardener Program of Marin County.
Common home garden soil problems:
- Over-watering –Check your soil, is it soggy? If yes, you may be overwatering your plants. Heavy watering can drown plants when the soil becomes too saturated and forces out vital oxygen. Once you know your soil type, you can test your soil moisture to see if it is above capacity using the “Estimating soil water by feel” table.
- Over fertilizing – Plants primarily get their nutrients from soil and from added amendments (such as finished compost.) Some nutrients might also come from water. Most ornamental plants get what they need for healthy growth on their own, so gardeners should watch plants for signs they need to be fertilized instead of automatically applying based on a schedule. Food gardens on the other hand can benefit from regular application of Nitrogen.
Signs of over fertilizing:
- Crust of fertilizer on top of soil
- Brown leaf tips
- Yellow, wilting lower leaves
- Brown or black roots
- Slow or no growth
- Leaves falling off
- Poor soil tilth – Soil tilth refers to a soil's texture, structure, and organic matter content. Good soil tilth supports healthy root growth, water movement through the soil, introduction of air into the soil, and beneficial microorganisms. Poor soil tilth lacks these things and appears quite lifeless. Maintain good soil tilth by avoiding soil compaction, aerating soil, avoiding tilling, using green-waste as a garden top-dressing for your soil, and mulching.
- Nematodes and soil-borne diseases– Nematodes are microscopic, eel-like round worms. The first sign of a nematode infestation will include wilting during the hottest part of the day, even with adequate soil moisture. Infected plants might lose their vigor and have yellowing leaves, will grow more slowly, produce fewer and smaller leaves and fruit, and may die.Soil contains many other living organisms, including plant pathogens and diseases that attack plants. If you suspect a soil-borne pest or disease UC Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a wonderful resource to help identify and get information on next steps.
Ask your local UC Master Gardener Program
Growing and supporting soil health is something all of us can contribute to whether we have a full landscape to work in, a small patio, or a community garden plot. For gardening help and local county resources, click here to Find a Program. You will be redirected to your local county website and contact information. UC Master Gardener volunteers are available to help answer questions for FREE about your gardening zone, pests, composting, and the soil in your area.
Follow us all week on Facebook or Twitter, or by using the hashtags #HealthySoilsWeek2022 and #HSW2022. For more UC ANR information about healthy soils for a healthy California visit: ucanr.edu/sites/soils.
Resources:
- California Garden Web: https://ucanr.edu/sites/gardenweb/Vegetables/?uid=26&ds=462
- UC Master Gardeners of Marin County, Soils Basics: https://marinmg.ucanr.edu/BASICS/SOIL_813/
- UC Master Gardeners of Tulare & Kings Counties, Nematodes in the Garden: https://ucanr.edu/datastoreFiles/268-861.pdf
| Estimating soil water by feel | ||||
| TEXTURE | ||||
| Coarse (sand, loamy sand) | Moderately coarse (sandy or silt loam) | Medium (loam, clay loam, silty clay loam, silt, sandy clay) | Fine (clay. silty clay or light clay) | |
| At field capacity contains: (mm available moisture per meter of soil) |
60-100 | 100-150 | 150-200 | 200-250 |
| SOIL MOISTURE CONTENT | ||||
| Above field capacity | Water appears when soil is bounced in hand. | Water released when soil is kneaded. | Can squeeze out of water. | Puddles and water form on surface. |
| Field capacity | Upon squeezing no free water appears on soil but wet outline of ball is left on hand. | |||
| 75-100% available moisture | Tends to stick together slightly. Sometimes forms a weak ball under pressure. | Forms weak ball, breaks easily, will not slick. | Forms a ball and is very pliable, slicks readily if relatively high in clay. | Easily forms a ribbon between fingers, has a slicky feeling. |
| 50-75% available moisture | Appears to be dry, will not form a ball under pressure. | Tends to ball under pressure but seldom hold together. | Forms a ball, somewhat plastic, sometimes slicks slightly with pressure. | Forms a ball, ribbons out between thumb and forefinger. |
| 25-50% available moisture | Appears to be dry, will not form a ball under pressure. | Appears to be dry, will not form a ball under pressure. | Somewhat crumbly, but forms a ball. | Somewhat pliable. Will form a ball under pressure. |
| 0-25% available moisture | Dry, loose single-grained. Flows through fingers. | Dry, loose. Flows through fingers. | Powdery, dry, sometimes slightly crusted, but easily broken down into powder. | Looks moist but will not quite form a ball. |
| Source: Irrigation Practice and Water Management (1984) | ||||
