- Author: Chris M. Webb
Today Ventura County Cooperative Extension Farm Advisor, Ben Faber shares some of his knowledge of avocados with us.
Avocados in general are very frost sensitive, however backyards tend to be warmer than open fields and homeowners can often grow trees with less concern than growers. All young trees are more susceptible to freeze damage than a tree that has a full canopy down to the ground. The canopy traps heat and keeps the tree warmer than the surrounding air.
When trees are young they are small enough that frost cloth can be framed around the young tree. This usually provides at least 5 degrees of protection. Just a blanket can be used, as well as long as a structure is built to keep it off the tree. When trees get older and are too large to cover, homeowners have used a sting of lights in the canopy to generate heat. Make sure they are lights designed for the outdoors.
There are differences in how much cold a tree will take. ‘Hass’ and ‘Holiday’ are very sensitive, while ‘Stewart’ and ‘Zutano’ are much more cold tolerant. Here is a comparative chart of the different varieties
Variety Frost Resistance |
||
Race |
Typical varieties |
Critical temperature below which fruit and/or trees are subject to damage |
Mexican |
Duke, Topa topa, Mexicola, Zutano, Bacon |
25 Degrees F |
Hybrids |
Fuerte, Puebla |
28 Degrees F |
|
Ryan, Hass, MacArthur, Nabal, Endranol, Rincon |
29 Degrees F |
Guatemalan (Very Tender) |
|
30 Degrees F |
- Author: Chris M. Webb
Topics in Subtropics is a quarterly newsletter – a combined effort of UC Cooperative Extension Farm Advisors (including Ventura County’s Dr. Ben Faber) throughout the state. It emphasizes issues, research and solutions of citrus and avocado, but will also discuss the minor subtropical species grown in our state.
The most recent volume contains the following articles:
- 'Valentine,' A Recently Released Anthocyanin-pigmented Pummelo Hybrid Developed at the University of California Riverside
- The University of California-Riverside Citrus Variety Collection and Citrus Clonal Protection Program Websites Provide Information, Photographs, Fruid Quality Data and More
- Water Infiltration Problems
- Attention San Joaquin Valley Citrus Growers: What Do You Plan to Do If It Comes For You?
You may subscribe for an online subscription to this and our other newsletters on our office website. Back issues from 2003 forward can also be viewed at the site.
- Author: Chris M. Webb
Ventura County UCCE Farm Advisor Ben Faber will be appearing on an upcoming segment of the History Channel’s “Life After People” series. The show peers into the future and portrays how the world will likely change after people disappear. Experts in various fields are interviewed to provide knowledge to help guide the imagination of the writer’s down a likely scenario. This is where Ben comes in.
How will plants change without humans? Ben explains that annuals, especially food sources such as pumpkins, are highly domesticated plants. Over time these plants have been selected for desired characteristics yearly – seeds from pumpkins that meet or exceed the desired characteristics defined by humans are planted the next year to reproduce the highest quality traits. This human selection process changes what might normally be there. Without people involved in the selection process pumpkins will return to a natural/wild selection process. Over time plant characteristics will change as nature selects traits.
The story is different for perennials. Perennials have a longer period to reproduction and tend to be less domesticated. Ben gives the example of Christmas trees. Humans do not use these trees for food, so we have not used selection processes to greatly change the outcome. These types of tress will stay much the same after people are gone. The exception will be trees grown outside of their natural environments. Perennials growing in environments that depend on people to care on them for their survival, for instance providing water, nutrients, or pesticides will not survive without them.
Dr. Ben Faber
- Author: Chris M. Webb
The following home garden water conservation tips were written by Ventura County UCCE Farm Advisor Ben Faber. This article and other practical pieces for home gardeners can be found on this section of our website.
When to water? How much to water? These are two very important questions that need to be answered before watering lawns, shrubs, trees, and vegetable gardens if we want to provide the most beneficial use of this resource. Because of variability in plant size, weather (temperature, wind speed and direction, humidity, clouds and fog), types of soil and water, and the method of watering, it is difficult to give one recommendation that is true for all situations. Additionally, watering plants on a fixed schedule subjects them to periods of too much water and at other times to drought, because weather and plant size change. A young avocado tree in December may use only one gallon per day while a 20-foot tree in August might use 35 gallons per day.
The following are general principles. As plants increase in size, rooting becomes deeper, and the frequency of waterings can be decreased because more water is stored in the larger root zone. The time to water can be determined by the appearance of the plant, by the soil moisture content, or by estimating the amount of water used since the last irrigation.. In most cases, plants can wilt slightly at midday before it is necessary to apply water the following day. Alternatively, i if you dig with a trowel or shovel down to 1 ft depth and find the soil is dry, then this might be used as an indicator of the time to water.
Soils and Water
In similar climates, water use by plants generally is the same regardless of the soil from which it is taken; however, soil variability is important in watering. A sandy soil requires more frequent, short watering than a clay soil to prevent water loss beneath the root zone. With heavy soils, it is best to water less frequently because these soils will hold more water. Heavy soils typically do not absorb water rapidly, so to avoid runoff it may be necessary to split the watering times into two or more periods. Adding organic matter to clay and sandy soils will increase the rate of water penetration in day soils and the water-holding capacity of sandy soils.
Other than seedlings, which are shallow-rooted, water should be supplied to a minimum depth of 1 ft in the soil (approximately 1 inch depth of water on the surface of the soil will infiltrate down to 1 ft). An area 10 ft x 10 ft will require about 62 gallons of water to filter down to 1 ft. This would be similar to 1 inch of rain or lawn sprinkling on the same 100 sq. ft. Infrequent but deeper watering will result in a deeper rooting system, and the plant will be better able to sustain periods of high water demand. Less frequent watering will also minimize loss of water by evaporation from the soil surface.
During or after a watering, the depth to which soil moisture has been restored can be determined by probing the soil with a metal rod not more than 3/16 inch in diameter. A big screwdriver is also a good tool for probing. The force needed to push the probe will increase suddenly when it reaches dry soil. The length of time of sprinkler operation or amount of applied water that was used to achieve a certain soil depth can then be used as a standard for future waterings.
Trees and Shrubs
In a winter with adequate rainfall, the whole root zone is filled with water near the end of the rainy season; however, in dry winters, plants need supplemental watering. The amount of water to apply is the amount required to replace the water taken from the soil by roots and lost by evaporation from the soil surface since the last rainfall or watering. Water to a depth of 2 ft (approximately 2 inches of water or 125 gallons per 100 sq. ft) under the drip line (canopy) of the tree or shrub. With deeper-rooted trees, for every third watering, apply twice as much, or four inches (250 gallons per 100 sq. ft). This will ensure that the deeper roots will be maintained and that various salts in the water are leached from around the roots.
Ideally, water applied to trees and shrubs should be ponded at the site by building berms around the plant. This insures that the applied water goes directly to the plant and is not wasted. It also makes it possible to visualize 2 inches of applied water. For trees it is best to build two berms: one 6 inches high, located in a 1 ft radius around the trunk and a second following the drip line of the tree. The interior berm is created to prevent diseases caused by water standing around the trunk of a tree or shrub. For trees located in lawns, a &water bubbler at the base of the tree can be used to deep water the tree, without applying excess to the lawn.
Because roots of trees and shrubs often extend in all directions far beyond their longest branches and comingle, it may not make sense to water them individually. A more practical procedure may be to create dikes around a group of these plants. The total impounded area of each basin should not be greater than 50 sq. ft and the surface within should be as level as possible. The 50-sq. ft area and levelness will encourage an even distribution of water to the various plants.
Depending on the hose diameter and water pressure, many household hoses apply about 5 gallons per minute. So to apply water with a subsoil irrigator to a tree with a 10-ft-diameter canopy, it is necessary to run the water for 25 minutes (2 inches of water on 100 sq. ft = 125 gallons). The bubbler should be moved every five to ten minutes around the tree so that all the root zone is watered. Since the 5-gallon-per-minute rate is an average, one’s own situation can be measured by filling a five-gallon bucket with your hose and timing how long it takes to fill.
Vegetables and Flowers
Vegetables or flowers can be grown in sunken beds or level basins that can be flooded in the same fashion as trees and shrubs. Sunken beds should not be larger than 50 sq. feet so that they can be filled rapidly to achieve uniformity with the depth of water to be applied. Furrows also can be used in growing flowers and vegetables. Spacing of the furrows should be such that water from the furrows wets the whole bed. The spacing of furrows will vary with soil type. Sandy soils need closer spacing to avoid loss of water out of the root zone when trying to wet the whole bed, while clay soils can have wider spacing. The amount of water applied by furrows is the amount needed to move across to the center of the bed. By probing with a stick or trowel in the center of the bed, it is possible to determine the depth of water and the amount of time needed to continue to run the water. Canvas soaker hose or drip tape are also good ways to water beds. The length of time to run them can be determined by using the calculation used for trees or simply by probing the soil to find the depth of water infiltrated.
Lawns
Studies by the University of California at Riverside have demonstrated that many turf grass species can get by with as little as 60% of optimum watering with little stress. Most lawns have areas that dry sooner than other parts of the lawn. Let these areas be your indicator for watering the rest of the lawn. When the grass in the dry area becomes dull colored and does not spring back when stepped on, water the entire lawn. The amount or length of water application should be enough so that a stiff metal rod or screwdriver can be pushed 1 ft into the soil. This depth for most soil textures represents about 1 inch of rain. Alternatively, cans can be set out in the lawn, the system turned on, and the length of time it takes to collect an average of 1 inch of water can be used in subsequent waterings. This test will also show how evenly water is being applied and can suggest ways to correct sprinkler performance.
Sprinklers should be run so that no runoff occurs. If water has not penetrated to 1 ft and runoff occurs, turn the system off for an hour then turn it back on to apply the needed amount. Spading or aerating lawns can help water penetration.
Some Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s:
Select plants that are adapted to warmer, drier climates.
Adjust sprinklers for uniform water distribution.
Fix leaky faucets and lines.
Water early in the day to reduce evaporative loss.
Mulch beds to reduce evaporation from the soil surface..
Shelter container plants from winds.
Don’ts:
Don’t sprinkle during windy or hot periods of the day.
Don’t put the water on the street and sidewalk; put it on the plants.
Don’t use softened water (sodium treated), if it can be avoided; it will harm most plants.
Don’t put sprinklers on a timer that is not adjusted with the weather; failure to adjust your timer assures you of wasting water.
- Author: Chris M. Webb
Ventura County UCCE Farm Advisor, Ben Faber shares with us his knowledge of avocados.
The avocado is an unusual beast in many ways. And flowering is no exception. It follows what is called synchronous dichogamy. The flower has both male and female parts, but those portions open at different times, opening first as female, closing and then opening as a male. It does this over two days, so in effect it can not pollinate itself.
To make it more interesting there are what are called A and B varieties. These varieties open and close in a different pattern, so that there is some overlap between the male stage of one variety and the female stage of another variety. This is how you get cross pollination.
This sounds really good as a model, but most avocados haven’t read the book: for a given variety, there are always some laggards with both female and male stages on the same tree.
Avocado flower