Tackling Summer Pests in Your Garden and Landscape

As the warm, sun-drenched days of summer arrive, our gardens and landscapes burst into full bloom. However, along with the vibrant growth and beauty come unwelcome visitors that can threaten the health and productivity of our plants. Among the most persistent summer pests are katydids, bindweed, and the troublesome tomato blossom end rot. Understanding how to manage these common problems can help ensure your garden thrives all season long.

In this article, we'll explore practical solutions and tips for keeping these garden invaders at bay, while also debunking common garden myths surrounding blossom end rot.

MANAGING KATYDIDS ON CITRUS

During a recent stroll through my garden, I noticed some critters munching on the leaves of my mandarin orange tree. Upon closer inspection, I identified the culprits as katydids. These insects can pose a significant challenge to citrus growers, causing damage to both leaves and fruit. Fortunately, I found only two katydids on my tree and quickly handpicked and removed them. To help you manage katydid infestations on your citrus trees, here are several effective strategies:

Regular Monitoring - Regularly inspect citrus trees for signs of katydid activity, particularly during the growing season. Look for chewed leaves and fruit damage, as well as the insects themselves, which are often green and leaf-like.

Cultural Controls - Keep the area around citrus trees clean and free of debris where katydids might hide. Regularly prune trees to remove dead or infested branches, which can reduce katydid habitat.

Biological Controls - Encourage natural predators of katydids, such as birds, spiders, and predatory insects, by maintaining a diverse garden ecosystem. Introduce beneficial insects like parasitic wasps that can help control katydid populations.

Physical Controls - For smaller infestations, manually remove katydids from trees.

Chemical Controls - Use insecticidal soaps or neem oil, which are less harmful to beneficial insects and the environment. In severe cases, apply insecticides labeled for use against katydids. Be sure to follow all label instructions and consider the impact on non-target species.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) - Use a combination of monitoring, cultural, biological, physical, and chemical controls to manage katydids effectively. Establish economic thresholds to determine when intervention is necessary, reducing unnecessary pesticide use. UC IPM Katydid Information

BINDWEED AND EFFECTIVE ERADICATION STRATEGIES

Bindweed, also known as Convolvulus arvensis, is a perennial vine notorious for its rapid growth and tenacity. Originating from Europe and Asia, it has spread widely and become a significant pest in gardens and agricultural fields worldwide. Identifying and understanding bindweed is crucial for effective control.

Bindweed is characterized by its slender, twining stems that can reach up to ten feet in length, and a root system that can grow downward to twenty feet. The leaves are arrowhead-shaped, and the plant produces small, funnel-shaped flowers that are typically white or pink. These flowers close in the afternoon and reopen the following morning. The plant reproduces both by seed and through its extensive root system, which can penetrate deep into the soil, making eradication challenging.

Problems Caused by Bindweed - Bindweed competes aggressively with crops and garden plants for sunlight, water, and nutrients. In agricultural settings, it can significantly reduce crop yields by overshadowing and strangling desirable plants. Its deep root system and ability to regenerate from small root fragments make it particularly difficult to eliminate.

Eradication Methods - Effective eradication of bindweed requires a combination of methods, persistence, and timing.

• Regularly pulling or digging out young bindweed can be effective, especially for small infestations. It's crucial to remove as much of the root system as possible. Unfortunately, it is rare to remove the entire root system. This method is labor-intensive and often needs to be repeated multiple times throughout the growing season.
• Applying a thick layer of mulch can help suppress bindweed by blocking sunlight. Organic mulches like straw or wood chips can be used. Mulching is more effective when combined with other control methods.
• Soil Solarization involves covering the soil with clear plastic during the hottest part of the year. The heat generated under the plastic can kill bindweed seeds and roots. This method works best in sunny, warm climates and requires the plastic to be in place for 4-6 weeks.
• Chemical control can be effective, particularly for large infestations. Glyphosate-based herbicides are commonly used, as they are absorbed by the leaves and transported to the roots, killing the plant systemically. Care should be taken to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to minimize impact on non-target plants and the environment.

Continuous Monitoring - Eradicating bindweed is not a one-time task but a long-term commitment. Continuous monitoring and repeated application of control measures are necessary to keep this resilient plant at bay. By combining different methods and remaining vigilant, gardeners and farmers can successfully manage and reduce bindweed infestations UC IPM Bindweed Pest Note

DEBUNKING 11 COMMON MYTHS ABOUT BLOSSOM END ROT IN TOMATOES

One of the most frequently asked questions on social media and to Master Gardeners is, “What is wrong with my tomatoes?” Unfortunately, there's a lot of misinformation out there, making it crucial to debunk some common garden myths. Blossom end rot (BER) is a prevalent issue in tomato cultivation, and it is surrounded by numerous myths and misconceptions. In this article, we'll explore some of the most common myths about blossom end rot and uncover the truths behind them. As you'll see, a consistent theme emerges in all the answers.

1. Myth: BER is a disease. Reality: BER is not a disease but a physiological disorder. It is primarily caused by a calcium deficiency in the developing fruit, often exacerbated by irregular water supply or other environmental stresses.

2. Myth: Adding more calcium to the soil will immediately fix BER. Reality: While calcium deficiency in the fruit is a factor, simply adding more calcium to the soil does not solve the problem. The issue is due to the plant's inability to uptake calcium efficiently, which is affected by inconsistent watering, root damage, or other stressors. Ensuring consistent soil moisture is more effective than adding calcium supplements.

3. Myth: All tomato varieties are equally susceptible to BER. Reality: Some tomato varieties are more prone to BER than others. Plum and paste tomatoes, for instance, are often more susceptible. Choosing resistant varieties can help reduce the occurrence of BER.

4. Myth: Place a Tums antacid along with your tomato transplant when planting to prevent BER. Reality: While it is true that calcium is important for preventing BER, the issue is due to the plant's inability to uptake calcium consistently rather than a lack of calcium in the soil. Factors such as irregular watering, root damage, and extreme weather conditions can interfere with calcium uptake.

5. Myth: Overhead watering causes BER. Reality: While overhead watering is not recommended for various reasons, it in itself does not cause BER. The disorder is related to the plant's calcium uptake and not directly to the method of watering. However, inconsistent watering practices can contribute to BER.

6. Myth: BER is caused by too much or too little sunlight. Reality: BER is not directly caused by sunlight levels. While proper sunlight is crucial for healthy tomato growth, BER is primarily influenced by calcium availability and water management.

7. Myth: Using Epsom salts prevents BER. Reality: Epsom salts are magnesium sulfate, and while magnesium is an important nutrient for plants, it does not prevent or cure blossom end rot. In fact, excessive magnesium can interfere with calcium uptake. Proper soil testing and balanced fertilization are key, along with proper watering.

8. Myth: BER can be cured by applying calcium sprays to the foliage. Reality: Foliar calcium sprays have no effectiveness in addressing BER because the disorder occurs due to a calcium deficiency within the fruit itself. Ensuring that the plant has access to calcium through its root system via consistent soil moisture is required.

9. Myth: Once a tomato fruit has BER, it can recover. Reality: Affected fruits will not recover from BER. The damaged tissue remains, although new fruits can develop without BER if the underlying issues are addressed with proper watering practices and soil management.

10. Myth: Using mulch will prevent BER. Reality: Mulching can help by maintaining consistent soil moisture, which can reduce the occurrence of BER. However, mulch alone is not a cure-all. Proper watering practices and soil management are also crucial.

11. Myth: BER is only a problem for tomatoes. Reality: BER can also affect other fruiting vegetables like peppers, eggplants, and squash. The underlying causes and prevention methods are similar across these plants.

By understanding these myths and focusing on consistent watering practices, balanced fertilization, and choosing resistant varieties, gardeners can effectively manage and reduce the incidence of blossom end rot in their tomato plants. UCCE BER PUBLICATION

Resource Links Referenced in this Article:

KatydidUC IPM Katydid Information

Field BindweedUC IPM Field Bindweed Information

Managing Blossom-End Rot in Tomatoes and PeppersUCCE Nevada & Placer County Publication 31-050C