Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
 
Client's Request: I need some help with pruning, grafting, and transplanting young fruit trees. I'm especially interested in growing Brown Turkey Figs.

MGCC's Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help desk with your questions about pruning, grafting, and transplanting young fruit trees. Some of your questions were answered on the phone and others required some “digging”.

Before pruning any fruit tree, it is important to know its bearing habits, and ultimately what shape or size you would like the tree to be when it reaches maturity. You mentioned that you would like to know how and when to prune the Brown Turkey fig that you bought and planted in a pot last year. You also mentioned that you wanted to know how and when to graft a fig branch (or scion) from your son's tree onto yours.

It is important to know that fig trees bear on first year wood. Pruning your tree in late fall after the main crop will allow the tree to recover and generate new wood for the next year's crop, or crops. Brown Turkey figs produce both an early and a late crop. The first crop or “breba” matures in early to midsummer, and the second, or main crop, matures in late summer to early fall. If you'd like both an early and a late crop, pruning should be done after the second crop is harvested. Sometimes severe pruning is needed to reduce a tree's size, or to encourage the tree to put its energy into the main crop. In this case, the breba crop will be severely reduced or eliminated. Pruning this way might also make new growth susceptible to cold injury. For your young tree, pruning for aesthetics will be your main concern, but as a general rule always prune any dead, diseased, dying or crossing branches as you find them.

Grafting a different fig cultivar onto your tree, involves taking scion wood from a healthy tree this winter, and preserving it in a bag with moist peat moss until spring when the grating should be done. Here is a link with detailed instructions about one grafting method you might try.
https://www.gardenguides.com/125489-graft-fig-tree.html

You might also consider getting hands on experience at the Golden Gate Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers Scion exchange on January 20^th in Berkeley. Here you may take a grafting workshop, as well as finding hundreds of varieties of budwood for grafting and cuttings to root. Please see the following website for more information about the event, as well as its location. http://www.crfg.org/chapters/golden_gate/scionex.htm. (Editor's note: Many years ago, I attended the CRFG's Scion Exchange and brought home scions of 22 different types of figs. I planted them all directly 1 each in gallon containers. They all survived, much to my surprise, since I'm not fond of figs. Fig Newton cookies yes. They eventually all were donated to dia to a much better fate than my garden.)

You also mentioned that you have a two-foot-tall volunteer fig tree in your yard that you'd like to transplant. The best time to dig up and transplant a fig is now during its winter dormancy period. You will need to measure the trunk and calculate that for every inch of trunk diameter, you will need to allow for ten inches of root ball diameter when digging. So, if your tree is 1 inch in diameter you'll have to allow for an almost 1 foot diameter of root ball. You should also dig the root ball at least 1” beyond the canopy of the tree to minimize damage of any lateral roots.

Other important facts when transplanting your fig tree include: planting it in full sun, digging the new hole no deeper than the root ball, using existing soil when back filling the hole, and avoiding planting in areas that collect water, in order to mitigate the possibility of “wet feet”, which might make the tree more susceptible to root rot. Use the following link for a comprehensive guide to fruit tree planting and care. http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/8048.pdf

For more all-inclusive information on how to prune, including shaping, types of pruning cuts, and much more, see the following link. http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/8057.pdf

This is a lot of information to take in, but I hope that you are successful in your home gardening pursuits, especially for your fig trees.

Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (JJM)

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Note: The  UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions.  Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA  94523, although we will be moving sometime soon. We will notify you if/when that occurs. We can also be reached via telephone:  (925)646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/  MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog  (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/)

 

Advice for the Home Gardener From the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County

Client's Request (telephone conversation is also included): We recently purchased a home with several fruit trees which unfortunately looks like the people that lived here last didn't take very good care of. I'm sending some pictures of an apricot tree that is quite damaged. I'm asking for your advice if you think I should try to keep this tree or take it down and put a new tree in. 

MGCC Help Desk's Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk and for sending the helpful photographs of your apricot tree. The photos show that there is severe bark cracking of major limbs extending all the way to the ground, and at least some sap ooze on smaller branches, although the leaf canopy looks rather healthy. The tree might survive and be fruitful, but because of the extensive damage to the bark and less than optimal branch structure (from improper pruning), taking it out and starting fresh is not a bad idea.

Some additional discussion of issues that could help you make this decision are below.

As we discussed, there is a common fungus disease of apricots call Eutypa die back that is spread by splashing rain and enters through pruning wounds. For this reason, apricot trees should be pruned now (early Fall), never during the wet winter. If you see oozing sites on any branches that are surrounded by sunken areas (indicating an area of infection), or see entire branches dying back, this would indicate your tree has the fungal infection and should be taken out because it will not recover. More information on Eutypa can be found at this University of California website  http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/DISEASE/eutypadieback.html.

Another potential cause of the bark cracking is a vigorous and rapid growth response this spring due to last winter's rains, particularly if the tree had not been properly watered during the drought. Since you are just moving in, and do not know the history of tree care, this would be hard to determine. However, if this is the cause, the tree should be able to recover. Providing excellent cultural care for the tree would help it to recover. Apricot trees need summer water every 10 - 14 days, and should also be fertilized in the spring and after harvest as described  here http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/fruitwatering.html and here http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/apricotfert.html .

If the soil at the drip line of the tree is dry to a depth of 6 inches or more, I recommend that you water it very thoroughly now and again in 7 - 10 days (depending upon whether we have more very hot weather). A soaker hose would work well to provide a long, slow application of water at the dripline that can penetrate the soil. Later, you could provide a light fertilization (half of the recommended amount) to the wetted soil. Never water near the trunk of trees since this can promote infection (described more below).

A third possible cause of the bark splitting is fungal infection of the crown area (transition zone between trunk and roots). The root flare of the apricot tree is not visible in the photos, meaning either that it is covered by mulch (which should be pulled back 4 - 6 inches from the trunk) or that the tree has sunk too deeply into the soil. When the lower part of the trunk is buried in soil, it is very susceptible to rotting by various fungi, which can kill the tree. Bark peeling and loss can be a sign of such fungal infection which would likely have been made worse by the wet conditions last winterhttp://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74133.html . If you decide to take out the tree and plant a new one, be sure to plant the tree slightly elevated, as described and shown here http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/fruitnutplanting.html.

Finally, as we discussed, it looks as though the apricot tree was not being pruned properly by the previous owners, but it could be pruned now (early Fall... see above), if you decide to keep the tree. Specific information on how to prune apricot trees can be found here http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/apripruning.html .

I hope that this information is helpful. Good luck with your new (to you) garden and orchard. Attached to this blog post is short guidance on "Growing a Backyard Orchard" that may be of use to you. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (JL)
Please Join us at "Fall for Plants" on September 9 for the workshops and the plant sale. 
Registration is optional, but it'll get you a free plant from the sale. We hope to see you there.

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Note: The  UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions.  Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA  94523. We can also be reached via telephone:  (925)646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog  (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).

Home Gardening Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County

Client's Request (from previous phone conversation):  I've just moved into my new house. There's a small “fruit tree orchard” in the back garden. I'm not acquainted with growing fruit trees, but my neighbor tells me that the previous owner pruned them this time of year. Can you give me some advice on what and where to prune the trees.

MGCC Help Desk Response:  Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program's Help Desk. 

In our earlier phone conversation this morning, I neglected to ask you about all the fruit trees you have to prune. I may have also led you astray suggesting that most fruit trees can be pruned this time of the year. Apricots cannot be pruned in winter, especially with frequent rains. They just won't tolerate the moisture of the season.

You may be interested in a free Master Gardener library talk about growing apples and pears on Feb. 28 at the Lafayette Library from 6-8 pm.  I am sure pruning will come up during that talk. To RSVP or to ask about upcoming talks contact higginssierra@gmail.com.

Since you are beginning on your newly acquired "home orchard" and you have several different types of fruit trees, below are a number of links from UC that you might consult for both general and specific information on tree pruning.

General and Specific Information for the Home Orchard, including pest control and pruning, please see: http://homeorchard.ucanr.edu/. This one reference will probably cover most of your concerns.

Figs:  hhttp://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/ENVIRON/figpruning.html

Cherries:  http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/cherpruning.html

Citrus:  http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/citruspruning.html

Tree Pruning:  http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/CULTURAL/pruningtrees.html

Vine (e.g. grape) Pruning:  http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/ENVIRON/trainprune.html

Good luck on your home orchard.

Thank you for contacting us. Let us know if we can be of further service.  

Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County

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Note: The  UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions.  Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA  94523. We can also be reached via telephone:  (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog  (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/). 

Home Gardening Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa Clunty
 
Client's Request:  I've got quite a few ornamental grasses and several Japanese Maples. I know I'm supposed to prune them sometime this winter, but I'm getting confusing recommendations on when and how to do it. Would you please provide some guidance and/or references I could use to properly prune them this winter.

HGCC's Help Desk Response:  Thank you for contacting UC Master Gardeners with you question and request.

You asked about pruning your grasses and Japanese maples. Our UC information indicates that February is a good time to prune both of these plants.

epending upon whether your grasses are evergreen or winter dormant, you may want to wait until they have brown foliage before pruning. For evergreen grasses, you can rake out the dead stuff and thatch build-up. If these get too big, you can cut them back every couple of years.

Here are two UC Master Gardener websites with good information about ornamental grasses and pruning:
http://sacmg.ucanr.edu/files/117290.pdf
http://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/2010_Feature_Articles/Pruning_Ornamental_Grasses/

pix: manicuredmaples.com

Your Japanese maple will be easier to prune when the leaves are gone as the structure of the tree is easier to see, and you can shape it to suit you. February is also a good time for pruning this plant. Here is a UC link with some very good and detailed information on pruning Japanese maples. http://ucanr.edu/datastoreFiles/268-561.pdf.

I hope this is helpful, and good luck with your gardening! Please do not hesitate to contact us again.


Help Desk of the UC Master Garden Program of Contra Costa County (SMW)

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Note: The  UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions.  Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA  94523. We can also be reached via telephone:  (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog  (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).