Advice for the Home Gardener
From the UC Master Gardener Program
Help Desk of Contra Costa County
The leaning bush has been propped up and the soil tamped down, but I'm concerned about the long term health of these bushes. Can you offer any advice for the eaten roots and over-all care of these bushes? I prefer organic methods, where possible.
Thank you in advance for any assistance you may have available.
Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk about the damage to your camellia bush.
Camellias are beautiful evergreen broad-leaved shrubs with fibrous shallow root systems that lie close to the surface of the soil, so immediately identifying and excluding any burrowing pest is critical! Unfortunately, I can't locate any specific information on vertebrate pests that prefer camellias, so you'll need to investigate the potential of a few of our common burrowing and root damaging vertebrate pests. The common pests in our area are ground squirrels, moles, pocket gophers or voles.
- The best way to determine what type of pest you have is by the damage you see:
Ground Squirrels: The key identifier for these rodents is an exposed tunnel entrance with discarded dirt surrounding the entrance of the tunnel. You can see right into a ground squirrel burrow, unlike that of moles or pocket gophers.
Moles: If you have a mole, you will see mounds of dirt and/or surface tunnels. Dirt mounds (look like piles or "puffs" of dirt shaped like a volcano) and surface tunnels (look like the veins on the back of your hand). Not all moles will have both surface tunnels and dirt mounds. If you see one or the other (or both), you have a mole.
Pocket Gophers: Damage done by pocket gophers is similar to moles, but there is a major difference. Dirt mounds are crescent-shaped (like a "C") with a "dirt plug" on one side of the mound.
Voles: Voles typically “piggy back” on the damage done by moles and tend to travel in mole tunnels and often are the cause of damage to roots, bulbs, and tubers within.
Here is a link that includes a good photo of the various types of soil disruption from these pests: https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=21028
UC IPM Pest Notes provide specific guidance on identification of these garden pests as well as suggested management strategies to control pests. Here are links to the Pest Notes for the pests listed above that will help you identify the damage they cause and how best to control them:
Ground Squirrels: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7438.html
Moles: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74115.html
Pocket Gophers: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7433.html
Voles: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7439.html
Once the pest is identified and controlled, we suggest that you may want to replant the leaning shrub that has suffered the most root damage. This is a good time to do it as camellias are generally planted in the late fall through the early spring. There is no guarantee that the plant will survive as it will depend on how serious the damage is. If a small portion of the root system is damaged, there is a greater likelihood the plant will survive.
Here are recommended steps to replant camellias from the American Camellia Society:
Dig a hole that is 1 to 2 inches shorter than the length of the root ball, but make the hole 2 feet wider than the width of the camellia bush. This allows adequate space for the roots to branch out but keeps the top of the root ball above the rim of the hole. Gently loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole with a garden claw or hoe.
Place the camellia bush on top of the soil in the hole; the top of the root ball should protrude out of the hole slightly. Backfill with the enriched soil until the root ball is completely covered. Mound the soil over the top of the root ball and press down gently but firmly to stabilize the plant.
- Create a circular ridge or berm of dirt two to three feet away from the bush; press down firmly so the dirt will not easily wash away. This ridge will help contain water.
- Water the soil thoroughly but do not leave the camellia bush standing in water. Keep it watered regularly until the roots are established and the plant shows signs of growth, then soak the plant once a week to encourage deeper root growth, as camellias roots stay toward the surface.
- Mulch around the camellia bush to retain moisture and even out the soil temperature. Mulch also suppresses weeds.
Here are several additional links for information on camellias pests and culture:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/camellia.html
https://ucanr.edu/sites/urbanhort/files/80153.pdf
I hope you've found this information helpful. Good luck with your camellias and please let us know if you have further questions.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SLH)
Notes: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Biog.
Subject: Control of Anthracnose on Sycamore Trees
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
MGCC Help Desk Response to Sprays for Control of Anthracnose on Sycamores: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your question about treating anthracnose on Sycamore trees. You have done a lot of research on this problem, so I am not sure we can tell you anything you do not already know. Sycamore, full-grown in suburbia is a large tree, and were a common tree planted usually several decades ago, but smaller lots and today's suburbia limit their planting these days. While they are often prized for their majesty (and heigh 60-100') they can e a problem from dropping branches, debris from leaves and branches, and anthracnose, especially if planted to close to a house and other trees.
As you know, anthracnose is a fungal disease which can cause unsightly changes to Sycamore trees. The effects on the tree can be brown spots on infected leaves to distortion of branches, cankers and dieback. Unless signs consistently occur every year, trees are usually not seriously harmed; they just may not be aesthetically pleasing. The fungi survive over winter on infected leaves and twigs or dead leaf litter under the trees. Rain in the spring splashes the fungus onto new growth and starts the infection cycle again. Infections are worse in years with heavy spring rain than those with dry springs. The best management mechanism is to remove infected twigs, branches, nd leafs during the fall or winter to decrease the re-infection of the trees in the spring. If there is a wet spring, spraying new growth with fungicides can be protective: however, University of California does not recommend fungicide applications for trees other than ash. I believe you have already reviewed this document but the UC web link to the Integrative Pest Management (IPM) on anthracnose is below. http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7420.html
I reviewed the pesticide labels of the two products we discussed - Agri-Fos and Reliant. If there is a difference in the products, it was not apparent to me. It does appear that Agri-Fos is not labeled for use on sycamores for anthracnose and Reliant is allowed to be used as a foliar spray and as an injection into the tree trunk in sycamores for anthracnose. Why these products, with the same active ingredient in the same concentration, are labeled differently is not apparent to me. So, we forwarded this part of your question onto our local Urban IPM advisor to see if he can provide clarification on this…. And we heard back from our Urban IPM Coordinator. Here is his response:
“Product registrants can seek wide or narrow spectrum labels, depending on targeted markets, costs, and efficacy information. In this case, the manufacturers of Reliant have included sycamore anthracnose while the manufacturers of Agri-Fos have not. It seems that Reliant is an older product that is registered for use against a very wide range of agricultural pathogens, so maybe it was cost-effective to include anthracnose. It's also likely that the inert ingredients of these two products are different. Agri-Fos, for instance, is usually injected or otherwise introduced internally, while Reliant is sprayed.
The more important consideration here is that phosphonates (active ingredients in both these products) are not considered effective sprays as per the UC IPM 'Anthracnose'
Pest Note: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7420.html
I think the last paragraph is the most important for this discussion, that phosphonates are not considered effective sprays against anthracnose."
Finally, as we discussed on the phone, you may try consulting another certified arborist to see what their recommendations for management would be. We cannot recommend a specific company, but would recommend you find a certified arborist through the following website. https://www.treesaregood.org/findanarborist
Best of luck and we will let you know if we find out more Please do not hesitate to contact the Help Desk again if you have more questions.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SEH/SES)
Notes: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog.
Client's Request: What bulbs can I plant in the spring? Where can I buy them? Thanks
Help Desk's Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your question about bulbs that can be planted in spring.
There are a number of bulbs that are planted in spring, although some are actually planted as early as February. Examples are amaryllis, tuberous begonias, dahlias, gladiolus, and tuberose. The UC Master Gardeners of Sacramento County have put together a list of bulbs and their planting and blooming times: http://sacmg.ucanr.edu/Sacramento_Bulb_Planting_Schedule/
Note that the times are for Sacramento County. If you are in central or eastern Contra Costa County you should be able to follow the Sacramento timing. In western Contra Costa County, you may be able to plant those bulbs a bit earlier (several weeks) since there is less danger of frost.
In terms of where to buy bulbs, I suggest checking with a local nursery. The big box and some other stores also carry them. I would suggest you carefully examine them all as the local box store where I live in central county often sells them displayed outdoors in full afternoon sun which isn't recommended as they should normally be out of direct sun and in a cool environment. Napa MG has published an excellent guide on storing bulbs (https://www.ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgnapa/files/153521.pdf). There are also many bulb growers and suppliers who sell online, and for many, they will probably be end-of-season pricing.
I hope this helps. Let us know if you have additional questions or need further information.
Good luck with your summer-blooming bulbs!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (ECS)
Notes: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via
telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog.
Apologies...
Had some minor calendar and computer problems and missed posting HOrT COCO blog earlier this week. Should be on-track for next week... hopefully
CHEERS
Advice for the Home Gardener from the
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program
of Contra Costa County
Home Gardener's Request: Thank you for calling the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk concerning moles in your lawn. I'm sending links (below) for the information that we promised.
Master Gardener Help Desk Response:
For Moles: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74115.html.
You mentioned that you have had grubs previously, and it may be that moles are still present because grubs are a food source for them. If you can eliminate the grubs, the moles may move on. The above 'pest note' link (above) suggests that trapping is the most dependable control method for moles, and it gives detailed information should you decide this is necessary.
For Grubs: The links following also provide some information on lawn grubs: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/PESTS/inchaf.html
This link gives more details about treatment: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7476.html
Turf Management: Finally, UC has an extensive website on general lawn management at:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/
Most control methods for grubs are only effective while they are actively feeding and as we move into the colder part of the year, grubs are not so active. You can check your lawn by rolling back a bit of turf to see if grubs are present. If the mole damage is not too great, you might want to wait until spring to reassess the situation. Meanwhile, plan on giving your lawn the best care, with adequate irrigation and care and not to over-fertilize. This will give it the lawn its best chance to withstand pest damage.
If you have further questions, please do not hesitate to contact the Help Desk again.
Good luck with your lawn!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SMW)
Notes: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Biog.
