- Author: Annie Sicotte, UCCE Master Gardener
The Humboldt Master Gardener/Del Norte Help Desk is staffed by volunteers trained by the University of California to answer gardeners' questions using information based on scientific research. Thank you to Annie Sicotte, Humboldt Master Gardener, for researching this question.
Q. I have a Meyer lemon tree that has been covered with fruit for months, but not all of them are turning yellow. The fruit looks to be mature size, but some are still dark green. Recently, my tree has started to bloom again. Is this normal? Can I harvest the lemons even if they have not turned yellow?
A. One great thing about Meyer Lemon is that it can bear fruit all year round. Lemons will flower and fruit more than once per year if conditions are favorable. On the coast, Meyer Lemons often have blooms and fruit in varying stages throughout the year.
Meyer lemons are typically ready to harvest when they have turned a deep yellow or orange color and feel firm to the touch with just a slight “give.” They should also be fragrant. It's best to harvest them when they are fully ripe for the best flavor. The heaviest harvest is usually late Winter/Spring.
The reason your fruit has not turned yellow may be that we have not had enough cold weather to encourage the color change. It occurs naturally as the fruit ripens, but cold weather speeds up the process.Citrus turns color in Fall, but the color does not affect the sweetness of the fruit.
The Meyer lemon is a cross between an orange and a lemon and is known for its milder taste, so if you pick it green, it will be more acidic in taste than your typical Meyer lemon, and you may be disappointed. The fruit is usable at any stage past dark green but will have a stronger acid flavor if you pick it before it is fully ripe. Meyer lemons don't ripen any further once picked, so if it's the milder taste you want, then it's best to leave the fruit on the tree as long as possible. That said, when citrus fruit freezes, it can become pithy and lose its juiciness. Protect your tree and the ripening fruit by covering it with a blanket, heavy tarp, or row cover on those nights when it's predicted to dip below freezing.
The best place to store the fruit is on the tree. Once you pick the fruit, it does not increase in sweetness or ripen more fully. However, if you do pick the fruit, it will keep for about 4 to 6 weeks under refrigeration. Juice from lemons can be frozen for up to 4 months.
For more information on growing citrus and frost protection, check out
The University of California book, The California Backyard Orchard, or on the web https://homeorchard.ucanr.edu/Fruits_&_Nuts/Citrus/
https://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Food_Gardening/FRUITS/Meyer_Lemon/
- Author: Annie Sicotte, UCCE Master Gardener
Flowers and veggies lingered in my garden this year, encouraged by the mild autumn weather. Then came the holidays, followed by rain. So much for Fall garden tasks and cleanup chores. Between rainstorms in January, I walked around the garden amazed at how quickly the ground turned from golden fall leaves to a green carpet. As the summer garden died back, weeds took advantage of less competition and filled in the open spaces. They grew from seeds that blew in, were dropped by birds, or were stored in the soil “seed bank' from previous plants that went to seed – just waiting for the right conditions to germinate. Constantly moist soil and cool weather allow seedlings to get their roots established before the soil dries out.
Those beds of weeds are often ignored until Spring weather urges us to get our summer garden started. By then, the weeds are lush and well-rooted. “Weeding” becomes an unpleasant, daunting task if we wait.
Since weeds rob plants of nutrients and provide habitat for unwanted pests, it is important to control them early while they are still small. Although pulling weeds seems like a no-brainer, there is a definite way to do it efficiently. Grab a knee pad, hand hoe, Hori-Hori or trowel, and a big bucket. Kneel at the open edge of a bed and work on the weeds closest to you. Gently pull the largest weeds, lifting the root with a Hori-Hori or trowel. Next, with your fingers, pinch the base of an individual plant and “pluck” the weed out. This loosens the soil around it. making the next plant easier to pull. Gently shake the soil off the roots back into the bed before putting the weed in your bucket. Now, give the cleared area a shallow scuffle with the hand hoe to dislodge small seedlings. Don't dig weeds with a spade or disturb the soil deeper than an inch. This is hard on the soil structure and brings more weed seeds to the surface. Don't get anxious. If you try to grab and pull large handfuls, it only breaks off the leafy tops, which soon regrow from the leftover roots. It's better to do a smaller area thoroughly. Finally, add a 1” layer of weed free compost to the cleared area. This prevents light from germinating new seedlings.
Pulling weeds will give you a chance to appreciate the abundance of slugs and snails as well! It always catches me off guard to see how early the eggs begin to hatch. These voracious tiny babies are everywhere I look. Weeds, as it turns out, are a perfect hiding place to avoid predators. Tucked under the flat rosette of Shepherd's Purse or in the axis of an Asparagus leaf, slugs can eat and grow and not be found. Removing the weeds will greatly reduce their hiding places, as will removing last season's straw mulch and keeping the grass short around the garden beds… But slimy things are persistent in coastal gardens.
The undersides of wilted summer foliage keep snails happy and dry until tastier foliage emerges. They do serve a function, of course. Slowly, they help the decomposition of plant material. Summer plants that have been left to rot give slugs and snails an easy dinner. As I clean the debris and cut back the plants, I have found tiny little snails by the hundreds this year. Cleaning the beds reduces snails, but it also redirects them to the fresh new growth of healthy plants. Although I would love to just leave them for natural predators, there aren't enough birds, snakes, opossums, or other critters to make a dent in this year's bumper crop of mollusks.
There are no sure-fire exterminators for slugs and snails in the home garden. Environmentally concerned gardeners use Iron Phosphate baits like Sluggo with some success. But even the heavy-duty snail baits- the ones that contain Metaldehyde or Carbaryl (that also harms worms, reptiles, birds and some mammals) - only work on the snails that come in contact with the chemical. Many of the small hatchlings emerge and head for a sheltered place above the ground. You'll find them hiding in the tender tops of plants, under the lips of flowerpots, or behind shrub foliage where their ‘foot' never touches the ground. In the cool, damp air of night, they glide from their perch to devour prized plants – which seem to be their favorites. Controlling them becomes a bit more problematic and requires a combination of approaches.
I hesitate to share that hunting slimy slugs and snails has become a bit of a questionably sane, definitely weird obsession for me. You won't find me excited by a dish of beer with a few drunken snails in it. Instead, I clean, prune, plot, bait, consider the possibility of becoming an Escargot farmer, and then become the Human Predator. (That's right - it's my Super- Power. ) To tackle the problem, I put on the garb of a crazed gardener - a bright LED headlamp, rubber gloves, a container of soapy water - and head into the night garden to make my rounds. As I examine each plant, turning over leaves to check bothsides, I pluck my slow-moving prey and pop it into the container, where it sinks to its demise. It's not a pretty sight. But there are just SO many snails!
As the nights go by and the population dwindles, I marvel at the impact I can have on a single population of slugs and snails. Yes, that's right, “a single population” because there will be more eggs hatching. A single snail can lay 6 batches of eggs in a year with up to 80 eggs each. That's 480 eggs for every snail! It's never-ending. But I'm doing my part.
So, I encourage you to get a head start on the weeding and garden cleanup this year. Keep that cool fashion-statement headlamp handy, and just ignore the neighbors' comments about your new nighttime gardening chore. For what it's worth, I can vouch for your sanity.
For additional information about Integrated Pest Management (IPM), including weeds and mollusks, Check out the University of California website https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/menu.homegarden.html?src=302-www&fr=3723
For help identifying and controlling weeds, https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/weeds_intro.html
For more on slugs and snails, https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html
All photos are courtesy of the author, Annie Sicotte, and are used with permission.
- Author: Tom Schrader, UCCE Master Gardener
Winter is here. Put your garden to bed for winter and prepare your garden for the dropping temperatures and wet season. Here are tips from the University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners.
General Tasks
Compost: Turn compost and keep it as moist as a wrung-out sponge. Cover compost during the rainy weather to prevent it from becoming waterlogged.
Drainage: Correct any problems in low or poorly drained areas in the landscape.
Frost: Watch for frost warnings and protect sensitive plants. Light frost 32-29 degrees F, medium frost 28-25 degrees F, heavy frost 24 degrees F and below for four-plus hours.
Irrigation: Reduce irrigation or turn it off completely if rainfall is adequate.
Maintenance: Inventory all sprays and pesticides; take outdated or unneeded chemicals to a hazardous waste center.
Mulch: Add mulch to garden beds where bulbs are planted, and to areas where weeds have been removed.
Soil: Prevent compaction and poor aeration of soil by avoiding working, walking on, or using heavy equipment on wet soil.
Tools: Clean and sharpen dull blades, lubricate garden tools and repair damaged grips. Cleaning can be done with soapy water and a wire brush or steel wool; air dry and apply a light coat of oil to prevent corrosion. Tools with wood handles can be sanded and rubbed down with linseed oil. File cutting tools, including shovel blades, to sharpen. Store tools in a dry, covered area. Have your lawn mower serviced to get a jump on spring tasks.
Weeds: Inspect lawn and manage rainy season weeds before they flower, using nonchemical methods such as cultivation, hand weeding, or mowing; use toxic chemicals as a last resort. Destroy all roots and underground parts.
Edibles
Clean-up: Control over wintering pests by removing fruit mummies and fallen leaves on the ground from fruit and nut
trees, especially if codling moth has been a problem. Dispose in green recycle bin. Composting this material could reintroduce pests/pathogens to your garden.
Feed Plants: Fertilize citrus trees in January/February just prior to bloom.
Plan: Plan your summer garden and order seeds early.
Plant: Bare root deciduous trees, shrubs and vines, for example cane berries, fruits and nuts, grapes, and perennial vegetables. For planting, care and maintenance tips see:
Berries and Vines - https://cagardenweb.ucanr.edu/Berries/
Fruit Trees - https://homeorchard.ucanr.edu/Fruits_&_Nuts/
Propagate: During the cool season, winter, and spring vegetables should be started indoors 6-8 weeks before planting out (in December and early January). Some can be direct sown. Warm season summer vegetables should be started indoors 8-10 weeks before setting out (late Jan-Feb). Optimum soil temperature for transplanting is 55-60°F.
Protect: Watch for frost warnings. If a frost is predicted, protect citrus, sub-tropical and tender plants. Pull the mulch away from trees and water well, keeping the root zone moist but not soggy. If not already done in November, cover trees sensitive to frost.
Prune: If not done in November, prune deciduous fruit and nut trees, such as apple, pear, and stone fruits. Prune grapes and cane berries now; it's too late once they have leafed out. Note: apricot and cherry trees are the exception;
prune these in July and August only.
Landscape
Clean-up: Do a general clean-up of the landscape on a dry day; avoid walking on wet soils.
Plan: Select blooming azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons while you can see their color. Order summer blooming bulbs to plant out in early spring.
Plant: Plant container ornamental trees, plants and shrubs except subtropical plants. These include frost tolerant
perennials; hardy spring blooming annuals; summer blooming bulbs; bare root deciduous trees, shrubs and vines (like roses); seedlings of cedar, fir, pine and spruce. Scatter wildflower seed if this was not done in November. Plant azaleas,
camellias and rhododendrons.
Propagate: Start frost tender perennials and warm season annuals.
Protect: If a frost is predicted, water your plants, keeping the root zone moist but not soggy. Cover frost-tender species
as appropriate (bougainvillea, hibiscus and succulents).
Prune: Prune winter flowering shrubs just after bloom; woody shrubs and evergreen trees; hardy deciduous trees;
dormant shade trees; summer blooming vines; hydrangeas and summer-blooming perennials. Roses should be pruned
by mid-February. Wait to prune spring flowering trees and shrubs until after they bloom.
- Author: Birgitte Elbeck, UCCE Master Gardener
Starting a compost pile in winter may not be at the top of your to-do list, but it may be just the thing you need to beat the winter doldrums. Your reward will be soil that is more fertile, supporting bigger and heather plants in next summer's garden.
Types of composting: There are two primary ways to compost in the garden. There is the slow ‘cold' method, where you keep piling material in a heap and leave it largely unattended, probably for longer than a year. Then there is the fast ‘hot' method, which is what Master Gardeners recommend. This fast method not only gives you finished compost in 4-6 weeks but also ensures more consistent results and is more likely to kill weed seeds & pathogens. You do not need to run out and buy anything - however, it does require a bit of elbow grease.
Building your ‘hot' pile: Composting relies on the work of many bacteria, fungi, and invertebrates that consume and break down plant matter. They need oxygen to stay alive. This means that your pile must stay fluffy and have air pockets throughout. In addition to air, the micro organisms also need a certain amount of heat to thrive. Together, these two factors mean that a pile should not be so big that the bottom layers are crushed by the weight above, and a pile should not be so small that too much heat from the organisms escapes. Experience shows that a starting pile 3' x 3' x 3' in size will have about the proper proportions. Your pile should be placed directly on the soil and kept in place with a simple ring of fencing material or a similar enclosure. Plastic enclosures are discouraged because the airflow is restricted.
Because you will want the finished compost to provide a well-balanced set of nutrients for your plants, the nutrients in the source material must also be in reasonable balance. The focus specifically is on balancing nitrogen and carbon. For the most part, nitrogen-rich components are green (spinach, for example), and carbon-rich components are brown (wood chips, for example). Click here for additional information about “greens and browns”. Be sure to chop larger pieces to 6” or shorter, as they will compost much faster. Layer several inches of ‘greens' alternating with several inches of ‘browns.' Note that no meat, dairy, or oil should be added to the pile, nor should diseased plant materials or noxious plants with seeds be included.
Pay attention to the water content of your pile. The micro organisms require moist, but not soggy, conditions, and you can achieve this by spraying water on the pile while turning or by placing a cover over it when significant rain is in the forecast.
Turning your pile: Once you have built your pile, wait a number of days for the micro organisms and invertebrates to settle in. Some critters will already be in the raw materials, others will travel up from the soil below, and their activity will start warming the pile. Your active pile will start shrinking, and you can stick your hand toward the pile's center to get a rough feel for the heat level. The desired temperature range is 130 - 160 degrees F; you should turn the pile in that temperature range after about three days. If the pile isn't heating up, it could be that you have not reached a critical mass of materials, or there isn't enough green to go with the brown, or the pile is too green and soggy and needs more browns. Turning your pile with a garden fork onto an adjacent area gives you an opportunity to move the less digested plant materials at the edges toward the middle of the new pile, add water, and introduce new air pockets. A well-managed pile will need to be turned at least once a week, will stay hot for 2 or 3 weeks, and then cool and be recolonized by worms and other soil organisms. In 4-6 weeks, you will have finished compost that can be used to enrich your soil.
Using your compost: Your compost is ready to be spread on your garden beds when it has a crumbly texture with no recognizable bits of vegetation remaining. It will have a fresh, earthy smell. Compost does not need to be worked into the soil; the worms will take care of that for you… But if you are turning your soil, this is a good time to add it.
Links: We encourage you to look at the links to the online material below. The YouTube videos are all very short and practical, while the material on the Master Gardeners' composting page has more technical information.
UC Master Gardeners of Humboldt & Del Norte Counties composting page: https://ucanr.edu/sites/hdnmastergardeners/Resources_for_Home_Gardeners/Composting/
Demonstration videos from the Orange County Master Gardener Program:
What is Composting – https://youtu.be/8Hzz56vV9Mw
How to start a compost pile – https://youtu.be/Z2fIY7eN8fI
How to turn a compost pile – https://youtu.be/lkGRsPm-gt4
What is Hot Method? What is Cold Method? – https://youtu.be/PRpc7o_AaUc
Why are these bugs in my compost pile? - https://youtu.be/VAyM9BjEv9I
Cornell Waste Management Institute, Composting: Balancing Your Greens and Browns https://cwmi.css.cornell.edu/balancing.pdf
I Can Name That Worm in Four Clues – How About You?
Match the clue to the Worm's Image. Place an X in the appropriate column.
Worm 'A'—Earthworm, nightcrawler, Lumbricus terrestris, is one of over 2,700 varieties of earthworms. They play an important part in the ecosystem, improving the quality of the soil, such as its moisture, ability to hold water, and nutrient content. They are also an important part of composting.
Worm ‘B' – Is a jumping worm, Amynthas agrestis. It is an invasive earthworm capable of harming native forests. This pest devours leaf litter and other organic matter, changing soil texture and nutrient availability to a point where some plants may be unable to survive. Its feeding can lead to a decline in the diversity and population of native plants and other organisms within forests and gardens. If you have seen this worm, go to https://ucanr.edu/sites/hdnmastergardeners/Jumping_Worm/ to report your findings and to learn more.
Resources and Further Reading:
Cornell Cooperative Extension https://warren.cce.cornell.edu/gardening-landscape/warren-county-master-gardener-articles/invasive-asian-jumping-earthworms
UC Statewide Integrated Pest Management https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=56929
University of Minnesota https://jwp.cfans.umn.edu/meet-jumping-worm
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