- Author: Sue Bohigian
Do you need a little indoor cheer during the gloomy winter? Are you ready for spring as soon as we turn back the clocks? Try forcing some bulbs for beautiful blooms in winter. Any spring bulbs can be forced into winter blooms indoors. Paper whites are inexpensive and easy to grow indoors. Amaryllis are a popular Christmas bulb to force indoors, but they tend to be pricey. Hyacinths, which can also be forced indoors, are my favorite flowers because of their wonderful fragrance, but I have had less success with these.
To force bulbs:
- You will need a container without holes. I like to use glass. It is pretty and I can see the roots of the bulb. I just use a glass bowl or mason jar. You can buy vases developed specifically for forcing bulbs.
- You also need a substrate such as rocks or glass pebbles. Pick whatever is pretty! Fill the container with water to the top of the pebbles. The water should just reach the bottom of the bulbs.
- Place bulbs on top of the pebbles so that they are sitting upright with the pointed end up and the root scar down. The bulbs should be set so that they are stable and sitting upright but on top of the pebbles so that only the roots and very bottom of the bulb are in the water.
- Place in a dark cool location and wait for the roots to develop. Add water if it falls below the bottom of the bulb. Replace the water if it gets cloudy or as needed.
- Once roots develop place the container in a sunny location and wait for the blooms to grow.
Remember that some bulbs need to be chilled. Paper whites and Amaryllis do not need chill time. Hyacinth need several weeks of chill time.
Bulbs that are forced are generally not renewable and cannot be forced a second season. They generally will not grow the next season (but I trim them and plant them outside just in case).
Forcing bulbs indoors is easy and allows you to bring spring indoors during the winter months. Good luck and happy planting.
- Prepared by: Terry Lewis
Tasks
- The tuberous roots of sweet potatoes will be ruined if the foliage is damaged by frost. Harvest before freezing temperatures kill the vines
- Use fall leaves as mulch
- This is the month to stimulate flower bud formation in your Christmas cactus by placing it in darkness for 12 to 14 hours each day when the temperature is 50° to 55° at night
Pruning
- “Pre-prune” roses by aggressively deadheading spent blooms and removing leaves from canes to nudge plants into dormancy
- Prune shrubs and trees to shape, except for spring-flowering varieties
- Thin black pine candles
Fertilizing
For even application of nutrients, use time?release fertilizer formulations on cool season vegetables
Planting
- As outdoor garden activity slows, use the time to transfer some design ideas to paper
- Fruits and vegetables: cabbage, garlic
- Trees, shrubs, vines: almond, apple, apricot
- Annuals: snapdragon (Antirrhinum), calendula, Baja fairy duster (Calliandra californica), Leucanthemum paludosum, Iceland Poppy (Papaver nudicaule)
Enjoy now
- Annuals and perennials: snapdragon (Antirrhinum), calendula
- Bulbs, corms, tubers: paperwhite (Narcissus)
- Trees, shrubs, vines: abelia
- Fruits and vegetables: apples, broccoli, cabbage, limes
- Fall color: aster, Maidenhair tree (Ginkgo biloba)
Things to ponder
- Feed the birds, including resident hummingbirds (and remember to clean your feeders regularly)
- Repair shops are busiest in spring. Now is a good time to have repairs made to power tools and to have your lawn mower serviced
- Historically, Nov. 15 is the first frost date for Zone 8 and Dec. 15 for Zone 9, but frost may occur earlier
- Move or cover tender plants. Plastic is not recommended
Drought tip
- Clean rain gutters and use downspout extensions to direct rain runoff back into the landscape, rather than into the street and storm drains
- Author: Sue Bohigian
Pumpkins make great Halloween and fall decorations, but don't throw out your pumpkins as fall turns into winter. Pumpkins are versatile and can provide a variety of products. Best of all, it is easy to grow pumpkins from your seeds.
Follow these simple steps for saving seeds and you will have home-grown pumpkins for next Halloween.
- Cut open the pumpkin and remove the fibers and seeds. Place them in a bowl of water and rub the bundles of seeds to separate them from the fibers. This is a messy slimy job - kids love it!
- There will be a lot of seeds. Plan on saving two to three times more pumpkin seeds than the number of plants you plan on growing. Larger seeds will have a better chance of germinating.
- Place the seeds on wax paper or parchment paper and allow to dry for about a week. Don't use paper towels because the seeds stick and are difficult to remove. Space the seeds out so they don't stick to each other. Once the seeds are dry, store in an envelope in a cool dry place. You will know that they are dry when they are white and feel papery. Don't store in a plastic bag because the plastic will hold in moisture. Some people store their pumpkin seeds in the refrigerator. Don't forget to label the packet with the type of pumpkin. All seeds look alike and you will want to know what type of pumpkin you are planting.
Planting seeds
I like to start the seeds inside. I usually start them in March to harvest my pumpkins close to Halloween. To see if the seeds are viable you can also perform the water test. If the seeds sink after being in water 15 minutes, then they're still viable. Otherwise, they might not sprout.
I always test to see if the seeds will germinate before I plant them. To test the seeds place them between damp paper towels. Place the paper towels with the seeds in a Ziplock bag. The healthy seeds will germinate within 7 to 10 days. It is easy and fun to see the seeds sprout so quickly.
Now it is time to plant your seeds. Young pumpkin plants do not like to be moved so planting the seeds in peat pots allows you to plant the seeds and move them outside when ready. Plant 2 to 3 seeds in each peat pot. Once they are growing well, choose the best one to keep in each pot and clip the others off. After the soil has warmed, leave the plants in the peat pot and place into the ground. I usually plant outside in May when there is no threat of frost and the plants are about 3 inches tall. When planting outside, proper spacing is important. It may seem like the little pumpkin plants do not need much room but each plant grows long, large vines. Make room because one pumpkin plant can take over your garden.
Other uses for pumpkins
There are so many other uses for pumpkins. Seeds can be dried or roasted to eat. Pumpkin seeds are very high in magnesium and are a good source of protein and fiber. Many pumpkins are delicious for eating as candied pumpkin, pumpkin preserves and, of course, pumpkin pie. Look up UCANR Master Food Preservers for more information on safely cooking and preserving pumpkins.
Enjoy the versatile pumpkin and happy growing.
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- Author: Terry Lewis
Shorter days mean there is less time to spend in the garden. Peruse gardening websites, magazines and seed catalogs instead
Tasks
- Stake newly planted trees in windy areas
- Clean up debris to eliminate hiding places for pests (if necessary). Or consider leaving fallen leaves and debris where they are, as many beneficial insects lay their eggs in the leaf litter. It also serves as a natural mulch
- Irrigate citrus trees at night if frost is expected. Damage to citrus varies with variety and fruit ripeness
- Continue to irrigate if weather remains dry
Pruning
- Do not top or prune trees severely in an attempt to avoid raking leaves! Extreme pruning will disfigure trees and shorten their lives
Discard diseased wood
- Leaf fall is the time to start pruning, except for apricot, oleander and olive trees, which should have been pruned in August
Fertilizing
- Add bulb fertilizer to planting holes before planting bulbs
Planting
- Fall planting ends this month. The soil will cool rapidly, which will slow root growth
- If you wish to transplant trees in the fall, it is best to wait until December or January when deciduous and evergreen trees are dormant
- Perennials: dianthus, euphorbia, kalanchoe, red hot poker (Kniphofia)
- Bulbs, corms, tubers: Snowdrop (Galanthus), snowflake (Leucojum), tulip (Tulipa), Watsonia
- Fruits and vegetables: bulb and green onions, strawberry
- Annuals: Love-in-a-mist (Nigella), primrose (Primula), pansy (Viola)
- Trees, shrubs, vines: sedge (Carex), Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus), bay laurel (Laurus)
Enjoy now
- Annuals and perennials: Mexican blue sage (Salvia leucantha), ‘Pink Muhly' (Muhlenbergia capillaris), pincushion flower (Scabiosa)
- Fruits and vegetables: Asian pears, kale, pomegranate, persimmon, winter squash
- Trees, shrubs, vines: lantana, viburnum
- Fall color: Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis), Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina domestica)
Things to ponder
- Calendula petals (fresh or dried) can be used as a substitute for saffron to color rice or flavor soups and stews
Drought tip
- Landscape watering in many areas is now restricted to one day per week. Check your city's policy for its winter irrigation schedule
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- Author: Susan Rosenthal
Chaste trees (Vitex shrubs Vitex agnus castus) are extremely popular in our area and for good reason - they are consistently great performers. So, it's surprising that Vitex shrubs are so infrequently seen, a missed opportunity to be sure.
Vitex trifolia and Vitex rotundifolia are both good shrubs, but flowers are insignificant and growth habit can be a little unruly, taking some effort to control. But crosses of these species with Vitex agnus castus have yielded exciting hybrids without these problems. Vitex ‘Flipside' (agnus castus x trifolia), Fine Gardening Magazine's shrub of the year in 2019, is a 6- to 10-foot shrub with much larger flowers, extremely long bloom time, neater habit and an interesting purple tint on the underside of its leaves.
Vitex ‘Summertime Blues' (agnus castus x rotundifolia) has the interesting rounded foliage of rotundifolia but much more prominent flowers and a dense compact growth habit reaching 6- to 8-feet tall. ‘Delta Blue' and 'Montrose Purple' are among others in the 8- to 10-foot range, but all can be kept smaller with a late winter pruning.
Other new dwarf varieties including ‘Blue Diddley,' ‘Pink Pannicle,' and ‘Blue Puffball' stay under 4- to 6-feet. All do well in full sun with average well drained soil and are drought tolerant once well established. Very few pest or disease problems. Smaller dwarfs do very well in containers. Vitex shrubs can occasionally be found at local garden centers but are more readily available by mail order.