While researching the horticultural term “Fasciation” for our winter blog, Master Gardener Cheryl Carmichael came across the following article on the same subject posted to the Wisconsin Master Gardener website by Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin – Madison in March 2011. Rather than re-write the article, we are reposting it here for our San Joaquin readers.

Fascinating Fasciation

Every once in a while, the normal growth pattern of a plant goes awry, producing an interesting “mistake” that can be attractive and ornamental, or ugly, bizarre, or humorous. This physiological disorder, called fasciation, can occur in almost any plant part, but is most noticeable in the stems or in fluorescence. In a normal plant, growth in the apical meristem occurs at a single point, producing essentially cylindrical growth. Fasciation causes an elongation of the apical meristem so that flattened, ribbon-like growth is produced instead. This abnormal activity in the growing tip often produces very flattened stems with a fan-like enlargement on the end, leading to another descriptive term for this condition of “crested.” It may appear like several stems have been fused so that the stem looks like a wide, ribbed ribbon (fasciation comes from the Latin word fascia which means “a band” and refers to anything which resembles a wide band in shape); stems may be bent or coiled in abnormal directions; numerous growing points may develop to produce a witches'-broom effect; flowers and leaves may appear at odd angles to the stems and the leaves growing from distorted stems are usually smaller and more numerous than normal; or flower heads may be elongated, deformed, or misshapen with more flowers than normal. There is also a much rarer type, ring fasciation, with a ring-shaped growing point, which produces a hollow shoot.

Although this condition is not common, it has been recorded in hundreds of different plant species, including ferns, 

woody plants, herbaceous annuals and perennials, and fruits and vegetables. Most coniferous and broad-leaved trees and shrubs can bear fasciated branches, but some are far more susceptible than others to malformations. It is most common in the plant families Cactaceae, Compositae, Leguminosae, Onagraceae and Rosaceae, and among species that have indeterminate growth.

Certain fasciated plants are prized for their unusual appearance,
particularly the undulating folds of growth on cactus plants, where the growth may eventually become convoluted, somewhat like a brain. In some cases, the changes are so dramatic that the resulting cactus plant loses almost all resemblance to the original species. Fasciated specimens of cactus and other succulents with their unusual forms – which can often be perpetuated by vegetative propagation – are highly sought by collectors. Some plants seem to develop this condition more readily than others, suggesting a genetic tendency. Many of the ones perpetuated by vegetative propagation become cultivars with descriptive names such as ‘Monstrosa,' ‘Cristata' or ‘Tortulosa.'

Japanese fantail willow (Salix sachalinensis ‘Sekka') is a clone with fasciated stems propagated from cuttings. The “cockscomb” cultivars of celosia (Celosia argentea var. cristata) are grown especially for their dependably fasciated flower heads, a trait that is passed on in the seeds. And some dwarf conifers with abnormally dense stems or odd branching patterns are fasciated plants.

The cause of fasciation is varied, but not well understood. In some cases, this irregular growth is apparently triggered by infection (by bacteria, viruses or phytoplasmas), feeding by insects or other animals, chemicals, or mechanical damage. Somatic mutations, hormonal imbalance, and environmental causes such as extreme weather have also been implicated, but in most instances, fasciation appears by chance with no obvious cause. In some plants a single recessive gene controls this condition, although the degree of expression is often very dependent on environmental conditions. Scientists have

identified two genes in Arabadopsis (the lab rat of plant research) that
cause fasciation when mutated. Some plants may inherit the trait, while in others the condition is not stable and affected plants may revert to normal growth from a fascinated growing point. While fasciation affects the plant's appearance, it has little effect on the health of the plant and affected plants have the same cultural requirements as normal plants.

I have seen several instances of fasciation in dandelion in my yard, as well as in Hosta, Sempervivum, and ‘Romanesco' broccoli. Keep an eye out in your own yard for the unexpected surprise of these random, fascinating oddities!

Additional Information:
Fasciation: Fascinating distortions of the plant world – Colorado State University Extension 

Fasciation – in an old (1903) volume of The Ohio Naturalist 

 

 

 

 

SHRUB: Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus) is a small shrub in my garden, several of which I can enjoy from my office window as I write this. They currently have the white berries that give way to its name. It blooms in spring with clusters of bell-shaped pink flowers which in the fall become clusters of white berries that last well into early spring. Fruit may be toxic to humans, but many birds do eat the berries, so apparently not toxic to them. These white berries make it a unique part of the plant world. It is a plant that tolerates a wide range of soil types though it thrives in clay and can handle shade and sun. They don't grow very large, about 4 feet tall and 6 feet wide, with arching branches and small leaves. They can be planted further apart to allow good air circulation because they are apparently vulnerable to powdery mildew although I have never observed such an infection. It spreads by way of rhizomes in its native habitat to form thickets. It is a native of the coast range from San Luis Obispo and north to Alaska. It is somewhat drought tolerant once established.

PERENNIAL: Dahlia. It is hard to believe, but this remarkable flower has not been in any Plants of the Season articles going back many years. I have grown lots of these gorgeous flowers over the years and this year had about 130. Dahlias are highly varied in form, size and color. This is because they have eight sets of chromosomes (octoploid) whereas most plants and animals have two (diploid) having one chromosome from each parent. This gives dahlias a great range of possible combinations of genes and results in the great diversity that we dahlia lovers enjoy. For more information on this, you can find it in this recent book: Dahlia Breeding for the Farmer, Florist and Home Gardener, a Step by Step Guide to Hybridizing New Dahlia Varieties from Seed by Kristine Albrecht with Brian Sprinsock. Dahlias can be grown from seed, tubers and cuttings from tubers. Most people start them with tubers and it can be tricky to do. Dahlia tubers have eyes that will sprout only around the neck that is attached to the stem. If a tuber does not get removed from the stem properly it may be worthless. Dahlias do best with some compost-enriched soil and require moderate watering. Staking and tying is required as most get 3-7 feet tall. For more information on growing dahlias, see the videos at Swan Lake Dahlias:https://www.dahlias.com.  

TREE: Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens). These are stately tall evergreen trees native to the North Coast of California and Southern Oregon. It is a tree of the coastal fog belt and thrives best where moisture is abundant. It is a tree that is often planted in the Central Valley, but is that a desirable thing to do? Apparently not because redwoods require a lot of water and we are more often than not in drought situations with climate change. In my neighborhood there are lots of them that were planted when conditions were different in the 1950-60 era. Redwoods have shallow roots and thus don't do well in competition with lawns and other plants and most people tend to plant them in shared landscapes. They are long lived on the coast, but in the Central Valley may only live 50-70 years without the summer fog and frequent winter rains. At the end of life, taking out a 100 foot large tree can be very expensive. They are also shallow rooted and can be blown down in storms. They are best left to coastal environs.

Before the recent pandemic began, one of our Herb Study meetings gave us an opportunity to create Pomanders to hang in our homes during the Christmas Season. We had so much fun and put 100's of cloves in quite a few oranges.

Did you know that the use of Pomanders date back thousands of years? Hippocrates, Thucydides, and Galen, all of whom lived through plagues due to pestiferous or “Bad Air” used a simple version to breathe easier and stay healthy. If breathing “corrupted air” was the cause of disease, then the solution was to surround oneself in a shield of pleasant fragrance. This could be as simple as an orange studded with cloves or an apple with resin bits stuck into the skin. You would simply carry the fruit with you and when you needed a breath of fresh air take it in your hand and roll it to activate the smell and hold it under your nose.                                             

As time passed, the extremely wealthy and powerful had access to “golden apples” of exotic fragrance. In France, these were known as pomme d'ambre, i.e., apple of amber. They became known in English as Pomander. A lord or baron would want his plague medicine in a receptacle worthy of his status.

In 1348, a report from the Medical Faculty of the University of Paris states “The present epidemic or pest comes directly from air corrupted in its substance”. The recommended remedy by the writers was to use incense in combination with fragrances, which “hampers putrefaction of the air and removes the stench of the air and the corruption (caused by) the stench.” Nutmeg, aloeswood*, ginger, cloves, camphor, sandalwood, and cinnamon were faculty approved for use in pomanders. We know today face masks do a better job at filtering out the “pests” in air we breathe, but the smells of the spices and herbs would be an improvement! Take that COVID-19! A drop of cinnamon oil in your mask could be the secret to keeping the mask on while you shop or sit through a meeting.

* Agarwood, aloeswood, eaglewood or gharuwood is a fragrant dark resinous wood used in incense, perfume, and small carvings. It is formed in the heartwood of aquilaria trees when they become infected with a type of mold (Phialophora parasitica). Prior to infection, the heartwood is odorless, relatively light and pale colored; however, as the infection progresses, the tree produces a dark aromatic resin, called aloes (not to be confused with Aloe ferox, the succulent commonly known as the bitter aloe) or agar (not to be confused with the edible, algae-derived agar),in response to the attack, which results in a very dense, dark, resin-embedded heartwood. The resin-embedded wood is valued in Indian-North Eastern culture for its distinctive fragrance, and thus is used for incense and perfumes.

Ever wonder why Holly is the tree from which we decorate the halls with boughs? Let me shed light on this tree.

The Holly tree is one of the two most respected trees in Celtic mythology – the other is the Oak. Each governed the sun for different periods of time: the Oak ruled over the brighter portion of the year and the Holly ruled over the darker portion of the year. Holly blooms late in the fall and as the winter solstice arrives, the fruit (cherries) are just turning ripe. The green boughs with red fruit attached marked the event and brought a spirit with it to remind cultures that the sun would begin to climb higher in the sky and warmer weather was again on its way – be it still a way off.

The Holly tree possessed protective qualities according to the Druids (early Celtic culture). They would bring boughs into their dwellings to protect against evil spirits and bad luck, as well as provide shelter from the cold for the fairies, who in turn would be kind to those who lived in the dwellings. (Is this an early start of “Elf on the shelf” or even the beginning of being classified as “naughty or nice”?) When you look at the Holly tree, its abundant spiked leaves are a great spot for garden birds to safely make their nests and enjoy the protection from predators.

Is it no wonder that Christmas and New Year celebrations take place during the Winter and days of Holly, aka Holly Days?

Happy Holly Days to All!

Question: What are some winter garden chores that we can do in the shop?

Winters are not very severe here which makes for year-round gardening. We don't need to worry about snow, sleet, and frozen pipes. This all makes gardening a lot easier than in most of the nation and I remember well my mother digging up and storing cannas, gladiolus, and dahlias in the cellar in New Jersey. Winter here is somewhat of a pause time for the gardener. A time to take an inventory of seeds for next year's garden and look at catalog's by the fireplace.

It is also a good time to visit our garden tools to make sure they are ready for spring use by conditioning and sharpening. I keep a can of boiled linseed oil available to rub down wooden handles on shovels, rakes, hoes, and wheelbarrows. If there are raised or splintered areas, they should be sanded with fine grit 120 sandpaper, either by hand or with an orbital sander, before applying the oil. This oil will help preserve your handles and make them last longer and they will feel better in your hands if smooth. Kitchen vegetable oil can be used on the metal tool surfaces to keep them shiny and prevent rust after cleaning with wire brush or steel wool.

Sharpening shovels and hoes can be done with a grinding tool or more slowly with a file. Pruners and loppers can be sharpened with several kinds of tools. If there are nicks or severely dull blades, a file can be used to take off the dulled parts. A finish to that and/or if a touch up sharpening is required it can be done with a stone or a carbide tool which can put a fine edge on a straight blade or knife. For more information on sharpening tools, click here.

Another shop project that can be undertaken if you have the room and right tools is to create wooden raised beds that can be installed in the garden. There are also raised bed kits that can be purchased and put together with a few or no tools. Sunset magazine has a few styles listed that can provide ideas for raised beds.  There are also recommended raised beds at this site.

I made raised beds years ago using some free beams from an old barn that was torn down. This wood was not rot resistant and in a few years it rotted. Subsequently, I used cinder blocks to make raised beds that were rot proof. There are now plastic and metal beds available that are also rot-proof and maybe rustproof. However, if you like a more aesthetic look, you can use redwood or cedar and create raised beds that are longer lasting. At my home, there are six 4ft x 12ft cedar raised beds that are doing well, and are pleasant to work in, and they have irrigation lines established as well for easy irrigation.