- Author: Julie Hyske, Master Gardener
Recipes From the Garden: A Taste of the Season
Julie Hyske, Master Gardener
Are you looking for a super easy spring breakfast? Maybe a brunch dish for Mother's Day? The spring vegetable egg casserole checks off all your boxes. It is loaded with spring vegetables: asparagus, artichokes, brocolli, green onions and spinach nestled in between eggs and cheese. Best of all is that you don't need to limit it to breakfast when you can serve it for lunch or dinner. The one pot pasta primavera is simply delicious with only one pot to wash up. When the pasta cooks in the sauce, you get flavor throughout the dish. This is truly a company-worthy entrée that is quick and easy enough for any weeknight. The strawberry icebox cake can be put together the day before to lessen your load. Not only is it family friendly, but it will receive rave reviews at your next potluck. Miso soup is so light and flavorful. This is a good classic recipe to begin with. Next time, I'm thinking of adding some to-die-for mushrooms and ramping up the protein with some shrimp to take it to the next level of miso happiness. Finally, in honor of earth day, recycle, reuse, and repurpose any leftover bread into some tasty breadsticks as a pre-dinner nibble. Happy spring and to new beginnings in your kitchen!
Spring Vegetable Egg Casserole
Ingredients
1 tbsp olive oil
½ cup diced yellow onion
2 cups asparagus cut into 1-inch pieces
2 cups chopped broccoli florets
6 cups packed fresh spinach leaves
2 cloves garlic minced
1 14 oz can artichoke hearts, drained and roughly chopped
2 tbsp freshly chopped basil
2 green onions sliced
4 oz shredded Havarti cheese
12 large eggs, whisked
½ cup milk
¼ cup crumbled feta cheese
Salt and black pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 350?. Spray a 9x13 inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray and set aside. In a large skillet, heat olive oil over high heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the asparagus, broccoli, spinach,and garlic. Cook for 4 minutes or until vegetables are tender and spinach is wilted. Stir in the chopped artichoke hearts, basil, and half of the green onions. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Pour vegetable mixture into prepared pan and spread out evenly. Sprinkle the Havarti cheese evenly over the vegetables. In a medium bowl, combine eggs and milk. Whisk well. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Pour egg mixture evenly over the veggies and cheese. Top with remaining green onions and crumbled feta cheese. Bake for 30-35 minutes or until eggs are set and slightly golden around the edges. A knife inserted into the center should come out clean. Remove from oven and let cool for 10 minutes. Cut into squares and serve warm.
Serves 9
One Pot Pasta Primavera
Ingredients
16 oz spaghetti, uncooked (cut in half to fit pot)
1 small onion, halved and sliced thin
4 cloves garlic, minced
4 ½ cups chicken or vegetable broth
2 cups broccoli florets
2 cups white button mushrooms, sliced
2 tsp sea salt (more or less to taste)
2 tsp crushed red pepper (more or less to taste)
2 tsp dried Italian herbs
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper (more or less to taste)
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup grated parmesan cheese
½ cup shaved parmesan cheese
1½ cups cooked chicken, shredded
In a large, deep Dutch oven add uncooked pasta, onion, mushrooms, broccoli, broth, garlic, crushed red pepper, dried herbs, salt and pepper. Stir until everything is combined. Bring to a boil, cover and cook on medium heat for 12-15 minutes. Be sure to stir halfway through cooking. Remove lid and stir in grated parmesan cheese, chicken, and heavy cream. Top with parmesan cheese shavings.
Serves 8
No Bake Strawberry Icebox Cake
Ingredients
19 oz graham crackers
2 lbs fresh strawberries
3½ cups heavy cream
1 banana, sliced thin
½ cup powdered sugar
2 tsp vanilla
¼ tsp salt
Cream powdered sugar, vanilla and salt with the heavy cream in the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat until the cream mixture holds stiff peaks. Spread a thin layer of heavy cream mix in a 9x13 pan just to coat the bottom. Layer 7 graham crackers across the pan, breaking them as needed to fit. Spread a thick layer of heavy cream mix over graham crackers and top with a hearty layer of sliced strawberries. Place graham crackers on top of strawberries, then heavy cream mix, then a layer of thinly sliced bananas. Repeat the graham-strawberries-cream layers 1 more time (3 times total). Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight until the graham crackers have softened completely. Top with a few sliced strawberries or whole strawberries, if desired. Serve chilled.
Serves 12
Miso Soup
Ingredients
2 tsp dashi granules
4 cups water
3 tbsp miso paste
1 8 oz package silken tofu, diced
2 green onions, sliced diagonally into ½ pieces
In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine dashi granules and water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and whisk in the miso paste. Stir in tofu. Separate the layers of the green onion and add them to the soup. Simmer gently for 2 to 3 minutes before serving.
Serves 4
Focacia Breadsticks
Ingredients
¾ cup olive oil
7-8 cups of 2-3 day old focaccia or ciabatta bread sliced in finger sizes
½ tsp each kosher salt and fresh ground pepper
? cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
Preheat the oven to 350 ?. Drizzle the oil over the breadsticks in a large bowl. Add ½ teaspoon salt and pepper and toss gently until the sticks are evenly coated in the oil. Add the Parmesan and thyme and toss gently to combine. Spread the breadsticks out in an even layer on baking sheets. Sprinkle any remaining unstuck cheese and thyme over the tops. Bake, turning about halfway, until the sticks are deep golden and crunchy, about 12 minutes. Let cool on the baking sheets. Store any leftovers at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
/span>/span>/h3>- Author: Morris Lacey, Master Gardener
The Help Desk
Morris Lacey, Master Gardener
In 2018, my wife and I purchased a 4-in-1 plum tree. You know the kind: all the rage for plum lovers because the fruit ripens per variety over a longer period than a single varietal tree. We chose a spot in our backyard and planted it where it would be bathed in sunshine. It took off growing and we were confident it would excel in short order.
As a 2019 MG graduate, I remember one of the final exam questions dealt with a hotline call regarding a multi-varietal tree which the gardener complained the grafted branches were diminished and appeared to be dying. The tree was rather mature and there was no visual damage from pests. What could possibly have been going on? While most of my classmates and I got points for our answer, we were left in suspense as to what caused the reduced growth of the branches and what actions the gardener should take to improve the situation (as sometimes that happens with phone calls and pictures).
I did put some time in on the MG Helpline after graduation and remember seeing one call recorded with similar parameters. Again, it was a mature multi-varietal tree losing a grafted branch under its canopy with no noted infestation or disease. This spurred me to take a hard look at our 4-in-1 plum and observe what was happening to it. Could this future outcome be prevented with our tree?
Our tree had bloomed and produced fruit each year since being planted. In 2021, all the fruit ripened at the same time. Interestingly, two of the grafted scions appeared to be losing ground while the other two were raging. Was I setting us up for failure? What could we do to change the future?
We remembered our training: pruning can impact apical dominance and force growth to other branches. In our 4-in-1 plum, the root stock was one of the varietals and formed the largest branch, and a second varietal graft was as big as the main stock. The other two grafted branches were less than half the diameter of the other branches.
Proof is in the pudding! We pruned to give the smaller branches apical dominance and the result this year has been growth – both in height and branch-width. We are continuing to prune for apical dominance and ensure each of the varietals compete in par with each other for nutrition. It is very rewarding to see the smaller grafted branches gaining on the larger ones. We also thin the fruit, so the branches are not damaged by the weight of the fruit.
I am not completely sure the other two hotline calls I mentioned would have responded to pruning as mature trees, but I am certain our efforts on our tree will result in 4 varietals fruiting amply each year if we pay attention to managing the growth of each and balancing their growth as equally as possible.
/span>/h3>- Author: Regina Brennan, Master Gardener
Herb Study: Miner's Lettuce (Winter Purslane)
Regina Brennan, Master Gardener
Miner's lettuce gets its name from the workers who traveled to California during the Gold Rush. Needing a source of vitamin C, gold miners learned from the Native Americans that this wild growing green would prevent scurvy and other vitamin C-related issues. Miner's lettuce is native to the western coastal and mountain regions of North America and was spread to Europe in the late 1700s when it was brought back from an expedition to the new world. It grows wild in California from Sacramento to the San Joaquin Valley. It appears most often in the spring. Today, because of the availability of fruits and vegetables, scurvy is not as problematic as it was in the Gold Rush days. And, alas, this once valued wild green has been relegated to the status of yet another spring weed. It is, however, a good source of food for animals, providing a grazing source for cattle and flocking birds.
With no knowledge of the hidden health treasure of this wild green, I have been pulling it from my garden every year, along with the other abundant spring weeds, relegating it to the status of organic trash, and sending it off in the green cart picked up weekly. Yes, I compost, no I do not compost weeds.
Just as the gold miners were shown the health benefits of this abundant wild green, I learned of it when a neighbor brought me a bowl of soup she had made. The soup was tasty, but it had a very large glob of greens that had to be eaten with a fork. I asked her what the greens were, and if she had grown them. She proceeded to tell me that another neighbor had given them to her and that he called it miner's lettuce. My gardener's curiosity was peaked, and I discovered that his cover crop of delicious greens was identical to the annoying weed I had been treating with less than respect.
According to several online sources, Miner's lettuce is a native winter annual broadleaf plant in the Montiaceae family. The flowers, leaves, stems, and roots are edible. Young leaves can be consumed raw or cooked. The plant can grow up to 12 inches, but is generally smaller. It is similar to spinach and is best suited for both raw and cooked applications, such as steaming, boiling, stir-frying, or sautéing. To avoid the glob effect, I would suggest cutting the leaves and stems into smaller pieces before cooking. The leaves will keep three to four days when stored in a sealed container with a damp paper towel in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator.
What does Miner's lettuce look like? It is a small, herbaceous, slightly succulent plant. It is light green in color, and has round, disk-like leaves, which surround its smooth, tender stem. The stem passes directly through the round leaf, and this makes identification easy. After the plant has bloomed, there is a small white or pinkish color flower growing on top of its rounded leaves. Young leaves are tastiest, as older leaves can turn bitter in the summer in a hot dry location. According to a study in the journal of the American Dietetic Association, 100 grams of miner's lettuce contains a third of your daily requirement of vitamin C, 22 percent of vitamin A, and 10 percent of iron.
Who would have guessed that such a wild plant, aka weed, has such an interesting history? I hope that shedding some light on this humble plant will encourage you to look in your garden to see if you are lucky enough to find a nutritious green that is worthy of serving your family for dinner. Bon appétit!
HORTICULTURAL TERMS
by Cheryl Carmichael, Master Gardener
Allelopathy: noun: a-lee-low-pathy. the ability of one plant to produce and release chemicals that inhibit the growth of other plants either by inhibiting germination or growth; a form of chemical competition.
Allelopathic: a plant that produces toxic substances to restrict the growth of other plants.
Competition for space, water, nutrients and sunlight is the basis for allelopathy. Some plants use their chemical tools to win the competition to gain an advantage for available resources. Some work through their root system releasing chemicals that suppress or kill plants, often through interfering with another plants' chlorophyll production, causing withering and death. Some allelopathic chemicals are released as a gas from their leaves. The gas is absorbed by the leaves of other plants causing suppression of plants' vigor or death. When leaves fall from allelopathic plants they release their noxious chemicals as a way to inhibit seed germination or plant health. While most allelochemicals are stored in the leaves, allelopathic properties can be found in roots, bark, flowers, fruits, seeds, pollen and foliage.
Allelopathic plant pairings can operate as herbicides and pesticides in agriculture. There are numerous crop pairings that can provide weed and bug suppression in order to reduce herbicide and fertilizer use. For those of you who plant vegetable and fruit crops, a new, well-regarded book is available outlining pairings that can be useful to you, with good explanations for choices.
Walliser, Jessica: Plant Partners: Science Based Companion Planting for the Vegetable Garden.
Sources
Reza, Shamim (2016). “Plant Allelopathy”. Permaculture Research Institute.
Walliser, Jessica (2020). Plant Partners: Science Based Companion Planting for the Vegetable Garden.
- Author: Morris Lacey, Master Gardener
Pests of the Season
Morris Lacey, Master Gardener
Spring is either here or just around the corner, dependent upon your Hardiness Zone (those of you in the foothills still have a little longer to wait). In San Joaquin County, gardeners face the peskiness of our new “normal” warmer weather which wears on our patience and urges us to plant in early February - despite our data-based knowledge which keeps telling us to be prepared for frost as late as March 7 (Zone 9b, Old Farmer's Almanac). I remember my wife and I living in central New York and trying to be patient for May 31 to arrive to get us past the potential last date for frost. Our neighbor warned us our first year there as we began May with temperatures in the 70's. Everything was jumping out of the ground, and that fooled us into believing we had struck the lottery and could plant tomatoes in the garden early and unprotected. We found out different on the last day of the month. You guessed it, a hard freeze - with snow!
FROST can be pesky and, while it is not a “pest” per say, it should be dealt with simply enough by planning and staying the course of your Hardiness Zone recommendations. When in doubt, listen to your neighbors who have lived in the area for years – they should provide sage advice regarding frost and your plantingtimeline.
LAWN DIEBACK - Lawns should be thriving at this time of year, coming off late winter moisture in the form of rain, fog, or dew. Even without said moisture, the ground has yet to give up all the wet of winter as the weather continues to provide cool nights keeping the ground damp below the reach of the short hours of daylight warmth. Invariably, lawns may have a large spot or two of browned-out dying grass which begs the gardener to question “what is causing that?” Good question! But don't jump to conclusions – investigate scientifically and identify the cause.
The reason behind this “pesky” situation may be as simple as dog urine (small circles) or too much water too soon for a season still cool for the type of grass planted or not enough water because the rain expected didn't come! Our recent windy days did pull the humidity out of the upper portion of our yards and grass may be living on short roots from previous seasons of light watering as opposed to long roots from a good soaking. If you don't find any of these options plausible, look for grubs around the roots. If there are less than 6 cutworms or white grubs within one square foot, no treatment necessary. Conduct a soil drench test to identify possible other insect pests which may be causing the dieback. If you do not find insects in significant amounts, do not treat with pesticides. If you do find insects in significant amounts, identify which insect is doing the damage and modify the environment to discourage the insect if possible. As a last resort, choose an insecticide which targets your pest.
In the photo above, the area of lawn die-back exhibits a carpet of dead grass and soil which is damp to the touch with no evidence of insects. A healthy border of shrubs is between the lawn and the front porch of the house. This portion of the lawn has been in shade all winter and a sprinkler system watered the lawn all winter as the owner lost a loved one late last year and is just now getting around to the former tasks of the deceased relative.
Identify the aphids as the cause of the leaf curl and remove the curled leaves by hand (good method) and squish the aphids or use a good stream of water (better method) to wash off the aphids or use soapy water (best method) to knock them off and “suffocate” the little beasts.
Visit http://sjmastergardeners.ucanr.edu/index.cfm or call 800-555-1212 with your questions regarding specific issues you may encounter in the pursuit of gardening enjoyment.
Pest Notes Publication 7404 Aphids, Pest Notes Publication 7476 Lawn Insects
UCANR – U.S. Hardiness Zone Map