- Author: Kathy Grant, Master Gardener
Being out and about in the cool, morning summer air can be a great source of joy and surprise as we encounter sudden beauty in our gardens. The slow-to-ripen strawberries and cherries suddenly are ripe all at once. Landscape flowers seemingly out of nowhere are in full bloom. Early summer's harvest brings savory cooking herbs, onions, and garlic to the table, as well as early potatoes and the last of the winter lettuce. Drying and curing will prolong the harvest. Carrots, Italian parsley, and beets are also for the picking. It is a rewarding time of year to wander and explore all our herbaceous borders and beds, so be sure to head out with your favorite gathering basket and a pair of clippers, while the day is still young.
Here are a few of my current garden favorites for storing up for the year:
Herbs—Most herbs are best harvested before the plants begin to flower. Clip off bundles of leafy stems and hang to dry, or leave in piles on a cloth, near an open window. Once crisp to the touch, a few weeks later, rub off the leaves, compost the twigs, and put dried herbs in a closed plastic bag or jar. Label and store for use. Small jars of dried herbs make wonderful gifts for friends or family. This year our family has dried oregano, thyme, and sage, ready for use in the kitchen.
Dried flowers for wreaths—Many flowers air dry well for posies or wreaths, and can be harvested and hung in many clever ways. One of my favorite flowers at this time of year is the yellow lollipop-looking flower, Craspedia, which, according to Wikipedia, “is a genus of flowering plants in the family Asteraceae commonly known as billy buttons, billy balls, and woollyheads.” Another favorite for bouquets or wreaths is German statice. UC has recommendations for storing. I simply hang in small bundles near good air flow. I have made a beautiful 16-inch wreath with a year's worth of dried flowers from a six-pack of colorful purple, mauve, and whitestatice transplants. About half of those plants are still going after two years in the garden.
Onions and garlic—Much debate circles around gardeners who can't agree when to harvest garlic. But generally, when the tops fall over, they are ready to harvest. Garlic leaves are a little less likely to flop, so look for the third leaf up from bulb drying out. Harvest gently by digging, not pulling. Let them dry on the ground, or outdoors on a bench or table, in the shade. Both onions and garlic can be braided and hung, after the stems have fully dried out. Store indoors in a cool place, 55-70 degrees F.
Potatoes—We planted our potatoes around St. Paddy's Day, March 17, and the plants started to flower in early June. Harvest is generally 90-120 days after planting, and the signal of maturity is when the tops flop and die back. We have learned not to let the potatoes go much past this point, because they get too big and don't seem to store well. For flavor, smaller is better.
There is also still plenty of time to plant a summer garden for fall harvest. Get yourself a good garden planting chart for success, for example, this one from the Master Gardener Handbook. The San Joaquin Valley is blessed to have a year-round growing season. By thinking ahead, you can begin to enjoy the fruits, veggies, and herbs of your labor and have plenty to share with friends.
- Author: Lee Miller, UCCE Master Gardener
Question: A few of my rose bloom stems have curled downward and I wonder what causes this?
This is not an uncommon phenomenon to see in the rose garden and is usually caused by a pest, the raspberry horntail, Hartigia cressoni. Rose cane tips wilt, droop, discolor and die back. This problem can also be caused by other rose culture factors such as over-irrigation and lack of soil aeration, but a close look can identify if the problem is caused by the horntail. If you see a small, circular discoloration of the cane, especially where the second and third leaves from the tip attach to the cane, the raspberry horntail is the problem. This area is where female wasp inserts her egg to develop and where the larva feeds inside the cane. Canes may also become slightly swollen when a larva has fed inside. Cutting open the affected area will expose a tunnel with brown, granular frass (excrement) and sometimes an immature raspberry horntail or its cast skin if the wasp has left. The horntail can also be a pest of other cane-producing plants, such as blackberries and raspberries, hence the name.
A description of the eggs, larvae and adult horntail as well as other information is provided in this publication of the UC Integrated Pest Management program:
The plant family Asteraceae contains over 32,000 distinct species of flowering plants that sport the traits known best as herbal: edible (or toxic) parts, aromatic leaves and flowers, and historical culinary, medicinal, and ornamental use with economic value derived from its uses. Within the family Asteraceae, we find the genus Artemisia one of the most unique, in that the aromatic nature of the plants is vibrant to say the least. Currently undergoing reclassification, this broad genus has between 200 and 400 species with varying levels of these aforementioned traits. Let's take a look at this group.
Members of this genus are typically perennial plants with multiple small yellow or greenish-yellow flower heads grouped into clusters. Leaves vary in color from green to gray-green to silver, usually divided and positioned alternately on the stem. Most are aromatic as essential oils are present and easily released. Their placement in the landscape often allows for smooth transition between intense colors or creates contrast from more dominant green plants.
Commonly named plants found within the genus Artemisia include Mugwort, Sagebrush, Sagewort, Southernwood, Tarragon, and Wormwood. Each of these common names comes with adjectives to specifically differentiate them from other plants similarly named but not in the genus Artemisia. It is important to be aware of a plant's true identity and the cautions necessary when touching and using them. The following represents ten of our favorites that we have encountered over the years.
Common Mugwort = Artemisia vulgaris: Why is it that Latin names are so vivid? Vulgaris certainly sounds awful coming out of one's mouth, so you would imagine this Artemisia would taste awful! You won't be disappointed—it is vulgar! Would you be surprised to know that this Artemisia has ornamental and medicinal value? (Cue Mary Poppins “Just a spoonful of sugar helps the medicine go down….”). Acupuncture practice incorporates burning it to make “moxa” (Mugwort burning) done over key points to stimulate the flow of Qi (pronounced chee), strengthen (thicken) the blood, and promote general health. Various Asian cultures also use it as a dream inducer.
Western Mugwort = Artemisia ludoviciana: This Mugwort is also known as White Sage (sagebrush), a handsome plant with soft, whitish leaves. It is an herbaceous perennial native to central and western United States and Canada in all temperature zones. It has a robust sage fragrance, hence the common name.
White Mugwort = Artemisia lactiflora: Lactiflora is also vividly descriptive, as the flowers of this species are milk white! This plant has silvery green foliage which enhances its ornamental use. The flowers are showy, bearing a resemblance to Astilbe (False Goat's Beard), and attract beneficial insects.
Big Sagebrush = Artemisia tridentata: Not to be confused with a trifecta and in no way related to “Trident” gum (which is cinnamon flavored), Tridentata is a very hardy species that tolerates arid environs. It plays a crucial role in its native Great Basin, surviving on minimal water while providing both food and shelter for members of the community. Utah State University researchers have found that this sagebrush has medicinal properties as a menstrual stimulant and avermifuge (expelling parasites from the body). The leaves are silvery green.
California Sagebrush = Artemisia californica: Grow this shrub in native plant gardens or use as a drought-resistant landscaping choice. Its silvery foliage exemplifies the Atremisia genus. California sagebrush is sometimes confused for a true sage (Salvia) due to its common name and leaves that smell like sage. It is a crucial part of the coastal sage scrub habitat.
Prairie Sagewort = Artemisia frigida: Also known as Prairie Sagebrush or Fringed Sage (sagebrush), this low-growing woody sub-shrub native to the Black Hills of South Dakota and Wyoming has silvery, frilled leaves that are very aromatic. Various Native American tribes identify this plant as one of their smudge plants.
Sagewort = Artemisia annua: This Artemisia is more commonly known as Sweet Annie or Sweet Wormwood, but is also known as Qing-hoa or Qing-guo. Different from most other members of this genus, it is an annual grown from seed as a late-flowering cultivar. Its cultivation in China began over two thousand years ago. The aromatic foliage is pervasive and pleasant. It contains a prominent level of Artemisinin, a drug incorporated into ACTs (Artemisinin-based Combination Therapies), which are the current treatment for malaria caused by Plasmodium falciparum as well as malaria due to other species of Plasmodium. Scientist Tu Youyou discovered this in 1972, resulting in a shared Nobel Prize in Physiology/Medicine awarded in 2015! Additionally, the aromatic branches placed in dried floral arrangements and scented wreaths really add flair to the handicraft.
Southernwood = Artemisia abrotanum: This woody shrub is native to the Mediterranean and is also very aromatic. It is lemon-scented and works very well as a moth repellent. It also makes a bitter tonic! Bitters add flair to foods in cooking applications and a punch to most dry liquors.
Tarragon = Artemisia dracunculus: French Tarragon is this actual species. While French Tarragon is the most popular culinary Artemisia in the world, people in fact grow more Russian Tarragon (A. dracunculoides) world-wide due in part to its adaptability. Both are green leaved and have a healthy anise flavor and aroma. French Tarragon is a little more difficult to keep happy in a garden due to its want for the perfect Mediterranean climate. But if you can create French Tarragon's happy place, you will not be disappointed. While other plants also have anise flavors, these two Artemisia are the bomb amongst Michelin-grade chefs!
Wormwood = Artemisia absinthium: You knew I wouldn't leave this one out! Absinthe was once the alcoholic spirit of choice in Europe, an anise-flavored spirit derived from the flowers and leaves of Artemisia absinthium, together with green anise, sweet fennel, and other culinary and medicinal herbs. The concern one should have with pure, untreated Wormwood is the chemical contained in its essential oil, Thujone. Research regarding this chemical confirms it to be a toxic ketone that can cause hallucinations and seizures. Warning! Danger Will Robinson! Danger! Don't get “Lost in Space.”
What an exciting group of plants! I hope you enjoyed the brief introduction.
For more information on Artemisia, click here.
- Author: Lee Miller, UCCE Master Gardener
The Fourth of July is a time of patriotic celebration and is also a target date for starting transplants for a cool season vegetable garden. It is an unusual time of year to be thinking cool, yet the summer solstice is past, days are getting shorter and fall approaches though many hot days lie ahead. I start my seedlings in wooden flats filled with compost in which I seed cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts. Recently, I have given up on the Brussels sprouts as they tend not to do well here. These winter veggies can be transplanted to the garden in late August-early September. Keep the flats watered and thin or transplant to other flats if the seedlings are too crowded.
Onion seeds can be started in a flat, about the 20th of August. Beets, kale, kohlrabi, carrots, chard, turnips, parsnips and lettuce can be directly seeded into the garden near the end of August. Sometimes using flats to start lettuce is a good defense against snail or slug attacks on vulnerable small lettuce seedlings that can happen when directly seeded in the garden.
If not done already, prop up those orchard trees that are weighty with fruit to avoid limbs breaking. July is a time for harvesting Gravenstein apples and other summer apples. In our hot climate, summer apples often soon leave the tree after ripening so pay attention and pick daily. You can refrigerate them for a few days until you have enough to make several batches of apple sauce or jelly.
It is a good time to do some summer pruning of apples and other fruit trees. Summer pruning reduces vigor. It will keep tree size manageable and will improve your crop for this year and next year too. There are videos on YouTube that will show you how to do it see:
Plan to begin harvesting tomatoes, peppers and eggplant. Peppers often sun scald in our hot climate so taking off some of the blossoms early to retard fruit development will encourage the plant to grow more foliage to shade the crop. Corn, zucchini and other summer squash need to be picked frequently. It is not too late to plant some beans, pumpkins, Hubbard squash, butternut squash and corn for fall harvest. Paste tomatoes such as Roma, San Marzano or Amish Paste are excellent canned for those soups, beans and stews next winter, and nothing beats the delicious sweetness of tomato juice canned from home grown tomatoes.
When blackberry harvest is over, it is time to prune out the floricanes and tie or direct the new primacanes in a vertical orientation and head them back at about 6 ft. If you have the trailing type, tie them to the wire horizontally.
If you remember to deadhead perennials such as coreopsis, dianthus, valerian and more blooms will be our reward. Pruning perennials is a complex task, so consult a good book on the subject such as “The Well-Tended Perennial Garden, Planting and Pruning Techniques” by Tracy DiSabato-Aust. This Fine Gardening article is helpful for deadheading perennials. Roses will bloom much more vigorously this fall if you deadhead the spring blooms, but remember to deadhead back to a 5-leaf leaflet just as you would when harvesting.
Dahlias need to be monitored for the appearance of spider mites. Water spray on the foliage to wash off dust and will help keep them in check, but if they persist, a spray of Safer soap or Neem oil will help control them. Thrips are also a problem for dahlias and weekly spraying with an insecticidal soap can help keep them under control. The Western Flower thrips is most likely the pest. They are yellow or brown and very hard to see even as adults as they are 1/20th of an inch long. Spraying daily with water also helps as thrips like dry conditions. Spinosad and Neem oil will also control them.
If you haven't already done it, mulching is in order for peppers, tomatoes, dahlias and landscape plants, to conserve moisture. For the vegetables use compost, for dahlias, use leaves or straw, and for the landscape plants, use wood chips or bark.
For lawns, mow high at 3 inches in July and August during summer heat and keep the blade sharp. If you haven't already adjusted your irrigation controller for hot summer higher irrigation needs, it is time to do so. September is time to dethatch, aerate and fertilize for cool season lawns of fescue or bluegrass.
Mid-September is a good time to sow California poppies and other wild flowers and time to plant annuals for winter color. Perennials such as dianthus, foxglove, coreopsis, geum, penstemon, phlox and yarrow planted in the fall will get their roots down better with winter weather. Or you can transplant to larger pots to let them grow larger before transplanting to the garden. It is also time to order fall bulbs to get top quality ones for fall planting. Plant daffodils for cheerful ones like these next spring! Happy gardening!
Every plant has a sole purpose in its life: it must propagate or become extinct. This interesting horticultural term highlights one of the more extraordinary means of seed dispersal.
Elaiosome, e-lay-o-zome, n. (Greek: elaio = oil + soma = body) meaning ‘oil body'. Some plant seeds have an attached structure that is filled with lipids and proteins. This oily knob attracts ants that carry the seeds back to their colony to feed the babies and adults. When the structure has been cleared the remaining seed is thrown in their garbage heap. This results in the seeds germinating in a rich compost pile away from the parent plant. It is an ingenious seed dispersal mechanism that is symbiotic with maintaining ant colonies and their health.
Research on the phenomenon counts between 11,000 and 23,000 species develop seeds with elaiosomes. This is less than 5% of plant varieties but still extraordinary numbers. Common examples include violets, bleeding hearts, myrtle, castor beans (for making castor oil – ick), hyacinths and trilliums.