- Author: Regina Brennan
A Weed, a Pest, and a Disease
Nutsedges are common weeds in our area, but not common in my garden. This past spring, however, brought an invasion of an unfamiliar grass-like weed that was overtaking an area normally occupied by colorful yellow lantana. Quick research revealed that this intruder was probably lying dormant in the soil and was awakened by our long rainy winter of last year. Sedges thrive in waterlogged soil and their presence often indicates poor drainage and too frequent irrigation. As often happens, weeds do not always follow the game book written by experts. They have taken up residence in a sloped, well drained area normally occupied by drought tolerant lantana. Research confirms that nutsedges are perennial plants that spread by tubers and once established are difficult to control. Tubers are key to nutsedge survival. To limit tuber production, small plants must be removed about every 2 to 3 weeks in summer. Continually removing shoots eventually depletes the energy reserves that would go into producing more tubers. Mature tubers can resprout more than 3 times. Unfortunately, the best way to remove small plants is to pull them by hand or to hand hoe. Tilling to destroy mature plants only spreads the infestation around. Few herbicides are effective at controlling nutsedge because most herbicides aren't effective against tubers. For more information on controlling sedges, see UCIPM Pest Notes Publication 7432
Thinking of these insects brings memories of the damage they do to my succulents. Naturally occurring predators and parasites often keep mealybugs (mealies) under control, but my experience has shown that small infestations quickly turn into colonies resulting in leaf distortion, premature leaf drop and shoot dieback when I am not vigilant n detecting their arrival on my succulents. Mealybugs are small, oval, flat and are usually covered with white, fluffy, or powdery wax. Mealybugs often develop into white, cottony masses. As they are sucking insects, mealies produce honeydew which brings ants and the growth of black sooty mold. I have a number of succulents that have survived mealybug damage but bear the scars of the battle to live. Mealybugs often hide where leaves join stems and can advance undetected without frequent checking. Forceful sprays of water are not always practical for succulents and insecticidal soaps or oils are only partially effective. I have found that an old home remedy of rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip applied directly to the mealies provides effective control. Severe infestations need to be pruned out to avoid spreading. Avoid using broad-spectrum insecticides that may also kill beneficial insects.
Rust diseases are quite common among different trees and shrubs, particularly roses. Rust appears as red or orange spore masses on the surfaces of the infected host. Each type of rust is specific to particular hosts. Close inspection of your landscape will probably reveal several areas of rust. Although rust is unsightly, it is not a cause for alarm, as it is rarely fatal. Low levels of damage can be tolerated. Rust diseases like cool, moist weather. Among the recommendations to prevent rust is to select resistant varieties and to plant them in a sunny location. This is especially true for roses. Normally, you want to avoid overhead watering, which spreads rust spores. On roses where rust or black spot are problems, do not use water sprays alone to control aphids. During winter, it is especially important to rake and remove infected leaves. Prune out and destroy infected shoots and branches to prevent spreading. Although I could not find any references to rust spores causing problem with allergies, it is still a good idea to wear a mask when raking and removing any debris that contains dust and spores, whether they be mold, mildew, or rust. Fungicides generally are not recommended to control rust diseases in the landscape.
- Author: Corinne Bachle
Reprint from 2017 Article by
Budding and Grafting: Methods of plant propagation used to grow more than one variety, and in some cases, more than one species, of fruit on a single tree.
Scion: A branch, shoot, or bud removed from one plant and grafted onto another (the stock or rootstock). Also, the aboveground portion of a tree that is asexually produced from a single parent by budding or grafting.
Rootstock: The plant to which the scion is attached. A union forms as the result of the tissue connection that is formed between the rootstock and the scion by the cambium, a thin layer of actively dividing cells located between the wood and the bark of a tree.
Cambium (Vascular Cambium): An actively dividing layer of cells found between a plant's bark and its wood that generates new sapwood (xylem) to the inside and new bark (phloem) to the outside. The cambium causes stems and roots to grow in diameter and it forms a tree's annual rings. In grafting, at least a portion of the scion's vascular cambium must match up with that of the stock.
Phloem: Inner bark tissue that conducts carbohydrates, hormones, and other organic compounds from the site of production to tissues and organs throughout the tree.
Xylem: The complex vascular tissue located at the inner edge of the vascular cambium through which most of the water and nutrients in a tree are conducted in an upward direction.
Source: The Home Orchard – Growing Your Own Deciduous Fruit and Nut Trees. Chuck A. Ingels, Pamela M. Geisel, and Maxwell V. Norton, Technical Editors. 2007
- Author: Constance Starner
We are fortunate to be able to grow a variety of citrus trees in our area. Because they are subtropical plants, the first consideration is to choose a site that is sunny, warm, and protected from wind in well-drained soil. Most citrus can be grown in pots, but they shouldn't be planted in lawns, because their water and fertilizer requirements are very different from grass.
Watering
Newly planted citrus trees need frequent watering to keep the soil moist; for established trees the top 3-6 inches of soil should be allowed to dry out before watering. Water deeply (4-6” of water) 1-2 times per month, covering the area slightly beyond the drip line and avoiding the trunk. Add 3-4 inches of mulch, keeping it away from the trunk.
Fertilizing
Nitrogen is the main nutrient needed by citrus trees; they should be fertilized each month from May to August, following the package instructions for amounts. If yellowing between the veins on new growth is observed, the tree may need a complete citrus fertilizer with micronutrients iron, zinc, and manganese.
Pruning
Citrus trees respond well to pruning. Suckers, vertical branches, dead or crossing branches, and any that touch the ground should be removed. Opening the center of the tree to light improves yield. The best time for pruning is spring to summer.
Pests
Citrus trees can tolerate some pests without significant damage. Common pests—aphids, whiteflies, scale, and mealybugs—all suck juices from leaves and excrete honeydew, which can lead to sooty mold, a fungus that grows on honeydew. These pests can be managed by controlling ants with sticky material applied to a paper wrap on the trunk. Another preventive measure is to avoid insecticide use and to plant flowering plants nearby to encourage predatory and parasitic insects that control pests.
A major concern is a bacterial citrus greening disease—Huanglongbing or HLB—caused by infected Asian citrus psyllids (ACP), which has the potential to decimate entire orchards.
An early symptom of HLB is the yellowing of leaves on an individual limb or in a sector of a tree's canopy. Disease symptoms also include twig dieback, yellow leaf veins, and green misshapen fruit. The California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA) has instituted a monitoring program and has set up a hotline at 1-800-491-1899 for residents to report suspicious insects or disease symptoms in their citrus trees.
Frost:
While San Joaquin County has a climate favorable to growing citrus, frost can be an issue. In general, when temperatures fall to 29 degrees F for 30 minutes or longer, some frost damage to citrus plants will occur, with the extent of the damage depending on the type of citrus. Grapefruit and orange trees have a medium sensitivity to frost; lemons and limes are more highly sensitive.
One way to minimize frost damage is to be sure the trees are well watered before a cold snap. Pruning and applications of fertilizer stimulate new growth, which is more susceptible to frost, so these activities should be done in the spring and early summer. If a severe frost is predicted, a 100-watt outdoor lamp placed in the interior of the tree will reduce frost damage.
Harvesting:
Don't worry if your tree drops young fruit—this is normal. Many varieties also alternate between heavy and light bearing years. For the best flavor, fruit should be left on the tree until it is fully ripe, because it will not continue to ripen after it is picked. A taste test is the way to determine this, so you can best enjoy your delicious crop!
For more information:
Frost Protection for Citrus and other Subtropicals.
https://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/8100.pdf
Deadly Citrus Greening Disease: A Better Lure for Asian Citrus Psyllids.
https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=3162
Growing Fabulous Citrus. https://ucanr.edu/sites/mgscc2016/files/319461.pdf
- Author: Francha Barker
What might you do to gain gardening knowledge? Congratulations! You are doing it! 65% of people prefer visual information, so reading helps most of us. Apart from learning new things, reading activates our cognitive brain functioning and staves off decline. We become changed people.
Some of the best aspects of learning can be to view it as a journey, becoming surprised by the joy of the serendipitous discoveries along the way. Here is a smattering of search sites and resources as trusted guides for travel. Choose the best websites to use as resources and to avoid gardening myths and companies' sales tactics.
.edu
Websites ending in .edu signal a page from a college or university. Sites associated with those institutions' extension departments can be a gardener's dream! Like UC Davis, land-grant (or Extension) universities are institutions that provide research-based programs and resources for residents within their state. There is at least one land-grant institution in every state and each one is designated by the state legislature or Congress to receive benefits. The initial intention of having land-grant universities was to provide practical education to agriculture and industrial workers. Now education resources are much broader and available to the public. Relevant topics may include beekeeping, pest management, weed and plant management, tree species and information, water-efficient landscaping, youth gardens, yard and garden resources. Educational courses and tips and counsel are offered through free tips through emails, social media, websites, video tutorials, courses, and events. All this readily available and practical research interfacing through caring and knowledgeable people like your county Master Gardeners!
cagardengardenweb.ucanr.edu “Advice to Grow By...Ask Us!”
ipm.ucdavis.edu “Solve your pest problems with UC's best science.”
ucanr.edu “Garden Notes: San Joaquin Master Gardener Learning Landscape” How about a full sensory learning experience? Visit The Learning Landscape located at the Robert J. Cabral Agriculture Center, 2101 E. Earhart Avenue. Themed gardens: Entry Garden, Foliage Garden, Arboretum All Stars, Edibles Garden, Pollinator Garden, Mediterranean Garden, California Natives, and Cutting Flowers Garden
arboretum.ucdavis.edu This enriching site introduces our next category of knowledge growth.
.gov
Websites ending in .gov are pages from U.S. federal, state, or local governments. Here's a couple that popped up when searching gardening topics (and adding .gov in the search bar).
Usda.gov Oakland, CA City Slicker Farms People's Gardens
Started in 2009 by then Secretary of Agriculture and named in honor of Abraham Lincoln who created the USDA and called it the People's Department. The People's Garden celebrates gardening and educates the Public: Gardening Advice, Soil Health, the importance of pollinators, People's Gardens Webinars: Composting Awareness, Pollinators, Gardening to Bring Cultures and Communities Together, Climate Smart Agriculture
Betterhealth.vic.gov.au Gardening for Children Topics: Children Learn From Growing Things, Getting Children Interested in Gardening, Child Safety in the Garden, Plant Selection for Children, Different-aged Children in the Garden, Activities for a Child in the Garden.
Ncbi.nim.nih.gov an interesting and affirming abstract titled Gardening for health: a regular dose of gardening.
Podcasts
On Tuesdays, UC Davis Arboretum and Public Garden Superintendent Emeritus Warren Roberts joins the podcast Garden Basics to discuss his plant of the week. Other days Farmer Fred, a U.C. Certified Master Gardener since 1982 discusses the likes of: Codling Moth Controls for Apples, which aired 5 days ago as of this writing.
And lastly:
unexpected places! This from a not-so-local local store flyer:
“Our organic cranberries are cultivated in colder regions...where sandy soil allows roots to grow deep, even though the cold weather inevitably comes early. While this makes for a shorter growing season, it naturally permits fewer insects—eliminating the need for insecticides.”
- Author: Janet Swanson
As Autumn is coming to an end and Winter is quickly approaching, it is a good time to look around your garden for the remnants of the past season. Gather dried pods, seed heads, dried flowers, herb stems, and even weed plumes. Also, Oak galls, acorns, and pinecones are some more of nature's gifts. If you have a grape plant, cut the vines and wind them into a circle to form a wreath. Weave the vine to help hold it in place or use jute or wire to secure it tight.
Now this is when the fun begins, gather all your supplies to make some home decorations from nature. Their beauty will keep on giving as you create décor from your own yard. You will need flowers, stems, leaves, moss, wire, twine or string, glue, floral form, scissors, ribbon, and wire cutters. Also, wreath forms and containers.
Wreaths are just one of the creations to make. Also, arrangements, garlands, and swags lend themselves to this art form.
For the wreaths, use small, tied clusters of 3 to 5 flowers, tie to the wreath using wire or twine. Do the same with the other items you have collected. Go all around the wreath until your wreath is filled. Tuck in some sphagnum or reindeer moss here and there, use hot glue if needed. Add a bow if you like, burlap will coordinate well with the natural wreath. If you do not have a grapevine wreath, use an embroidery hoop or thick wire to make a circle or heart shape. Or purchase a wreath form at the craft store.
To make a garland, start with a length of jute or wire, 2 to 3 feet works well. Tie or bend the 2 ends to create loops for hanging. Use the same method of gathering the flowers into small bundles and tie or wire them to your jute. Add plenty of moss to fill in the gaps. Use hot glue to add single flowers or leaves in bare spots. Display by hanging on 2 hooks using the loops.
To make a swag, use a piece of floral foam and decide if you would like it vertical or horizontal. Attach a piece of wire through the foam for hanging. If the floral stems are weak or break easily, wrap a 4” piece of wire around the stems and insert the other end of the wire into the foam. Place your flowers in an appealing design. Use glue and moss to cover the foam base. Add a bow if desired. Another way to make a floral swag is to gather long stemmed flowers and herb stems, tie, hang upside-down, tie with a pretty ribbon.
Thinking ahead to later in the year: for the Thanksgiving table, use large, dried leaves and write your dinner guests' names using a gold pen. Or tie a small bouquet of flowers, attach a tag with your guest's name.
Get creative, have fun, and make something beautiful from nature.
