- Author: Melissa Berg
Unfortunately, the predominant grasses promoted by Scott's were brought from European locales with abundant annual rainfall. After World War II, the advent of the lawn mower and powerful chemical fertilizers truly brought residential turf to the masses. However, attempting to homogenize installation of the same grass seeds (Kentucky Blue and Bent grasses) across all locales required a massive influx of irrigation, fertilizers and potent weed killers.
A NASA funded report in 2005 demonstrated that over 50,000 acres of residential turf was actively being cultivated by homeowners in the United States alone. That same report included data from the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) citing the annual water use, exclusive of rainfall, by the typical suburban lawn at 10,000 gallons.
It is not, therefore, surprising that more and more homeowners, municipalities, business owners and academic institutions continue to consider viable replacement(s)for their existing expanses of turf grass. California, in particular, has been active in promoting “water wise” landscaping in light of persistent drought conditions.
The first Model Water Efficient Landscape Ordinance (MWELO) was established in 1992 for new and renovated properties. The original focus was to limit landscape space larger than 2500 square feet to no more than 50% turf grass. In 2010, a revision was adopted to reduce water usage by 14%. (It was commonly thought that newer, more efficient sprinkler technology would allow users to maintain their existing landscape while using less water.) MWELO was again amended in 2017 to further reduce water usage.
Municipalities, Long Beach and Los Angeles for example, have offered rebate programs aimed at providing homeowners cash incentives to remove residential turf and replace it with water wise landscaping options (such as xeriscaping, native and drought resistant plants and rock or hardscape). Limited funding and mixed residential results have compromised widespread success rates for such programs.
It is no secret that white clover (Trifolium repens) varieties are already a regular addition to ornamental turf seed currently available at retail locations across the nation. Both Dutch and New Zealand white clover varieties stand up to most foot traffic when paired with grasses, are low growing, are hardy in USDA zones 3-13, and set nitrogen as a benefit to those grasses (thereby reducing fertilizer needs).
There are currently a few schools of thought circulating when it comes to utilizing clover as a turf alternative. The first is whether or not the intent is to over-seed, i.e., leaving all or part of the existing turf in place and simply using micro-clover to cover bald or problem spots (such as excessive weed or soil-based issues). The second is simply opting to establish a monoculture of either clover or micro-clover after complete removal of the existing turf. A third concept uses a blend of multiple clovers in addition to low growing wildflowers (successfully in use by the city of Richmond, BC) to create an alternative urban setting that conserves all resources and reduces costs.
Unlike municipal or academic settings which often have more than one usage requirement for their turf sites (sport fields, parks and public access, etc.), the average suburban homeowner need only consider how and why they use or want to use their existing lawn. Is it merely ornamental or is the exterior living space in regular use by children, adults and pets?
Specific clover attributes to consider in the decision-making process include:
- micro-clover, unlike white clover, does not flower (for those with allergies).
- both clovers will grow to about six inches in height for a more pasture appearance but will tolerate mowing to three inches to encourage spread.
- both tend to successfully compete with most weeds found in lawns and tend to discourage insect pests.
- both are relatively deep rooted but neither does particularly well in heavy traffic areas.
- both do very well as niche growers between pavers or stepping stones.
- both tolerate compacted soils, and
- neither will yellow in response to pet urine.
While establishing a monoculture of clover or micro-clover would likely yield the greatest long-term benefits for a homeowner by eliminating mowing, reducing water consumption once established, attracting pollinators with white (or red) clover, improving soil and eliminating the need for fertilizer to name a few, it would require the complete removal of the existing lawn in order to properly prepare, seed and germinate clover either in the springtime or in late fall.
If, on the other hand, sites are well used by families, then over-seeding with clover could help reduce fertilizer needs and improve soil conditions. Either way households should realize a varying degree of reduced costs from water consumption, chemical application (whether fertilizer or weed abatement), labor costs (i.e., gardeners) and reduced time and maintenance investments.
The clover blend developed for use in British Columbia consists of Microclover (Trifolium repens var. Pipolina), White Dutch Clover (Trifolium repens), Sheep Fescue (Festuca ovina), Western Yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Baby Blue Eyes (Nemophila menziesii), Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima), English Daisy (Bellis perennis), Roman Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) and Perennial Ryegrass (Lolium perenne). To date, both installations of pasture setting at five-inch height and manicured cover at three inch height have been a resounding resource and investment success.
Despite its overwhelming benefits, white clover does have a few drawbacks. It is, in fact, drought tolerant, but will not thrive and spread when consistently denied water in hot conditions. This may cause some degree of aesthetic concern for homeowners, if, during the first season after sowing, insufficient seed has been installed and results in sparse growth. Installing in late fall often takes advantage of the wet season in order to sufficiently germinate seed however it can result in seed migration if water ponds at any point in the yard. Careful monitoring of the site and over-seeding will cure this problem and result in a thicker spring growth. As it is naturally invasive, defined parameters of containment are often required. It will grow, but not flower, in some shady locations and, most important, broadleaf herbicides will kill the clover if applied.
In a era where homeowners have become increasingly pressed for time and resources, sowing additional clover as a symbiotic supplement to turf, utilizing replacement clover blends to fashion a suburban pasture or establishing a monoculture of clover all appear to be promising options which provide suburbanites with viable alternatives for their exterior yard space; each according to their individual outdoor needs and functional desires.
- Author: Sue Davis Master Gardener
Soft green leaves and delicate flower heads celebrate spring and renewal. Now is the time to renew gardens and home landscapes. One chore per week, just four per month, will keep a garden going.
April Ideas
Check all the sprinklers and drip lines to be sure they are working properly and not wasting water. There is a comprehensive spring tune-up guide for sprinklers in the 2010 April - June Master Gardener Newsletter which can be found here.
Lawns will thrive with an application of fertilizer now. Use a balanced slow release or organic fertilizer and apply it according to package directions. Organic fertilizers react more slowly, but will provide a lush result. If crabgrass has been a problem in past years, consider a pre-emergent/fertilizer mix. Help preserve our waterways by avoiding getting granules on hardscape surfaces.
If a new tree or shrub will need planting, make a hole about twice the width of the root ball. Build a cone of soil in the center of the hole tall enough so the new plant will be level or slightly above the surrounding soil when placed on top of it. Gently knock the plant from its pot. Use fingers to uncoil and separate any bunched-up roots. If the root-ball is solid, use a knife to score four 1/2-inch-deep cuts around the sides and one on the bottom (don't do this on bougainvillea). Set the roots atop the cone, refill the hole, and water thoroughly to eliminate air pockets. The beginning of the root flare on trees should be visible at or above the surrounding soil. Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around the plants, keeping the mulch about an inch away from trunks and stems. This is a good time of year to plant citrus trees.
Spread compost as fruits and vegetables are planted; it will give them a good start and help produce a larger yield. Compost is easy to make. To process a compost pile quickly, keep it as damp as a wrung-out sponge and turn it frequently. If it isn't feasible to turn the compost as frequently as needed, don't forget that the “let-it-rot” method also works; it just takes longer.
In May
Fill out a flower garden and add a little height by starting with flowers in six packs. Planted in May, these little gems will explode with summer color in a few weeks. If instant color is needed, think about 4-inch pots instead. Shorter bedding plants get the front row spot followed by tall, upright bedding plants and finished with some summer-blooming vines grown on a sturdy structure that is set in the garden at the same time planting occurs. It is difficult to add the structure once the plant needs it. As the vine grows, train the shoots to the support with self-gripping Velcro, plant tape, or twist ties.
Fill ou vegetable gardens with transplants of tomatoes and peppers. Around the middle of May is a great time to plant seeds of pumpkins, beans, corn, squash, cucumbers, and melons. For interesting and unusual fall decorations, consider growing pumpkins or winter squash that are not the ordinary jack-o-lantern choice.
This is always a fun chore … do nothing … to those green leaves and stems left once the flower from a bulb has finished performing. The bulbs should be left in the ground until the foliage is dry and crisp.
Lawns that get a lot of heavy fool traffic develop compacted soil which makes it difficult for water, fertilizer, and oxygen to reach the roots. If a screwdriver can't be pushed up to its handle into the turf, it's time to aerate. Use an aerator that either produces a core or a water wash to dig holes. Spike aerators just add to compaction. If using a machine aerator, be sure to mark and avoid all sprinkler heads. Some machine aerators require a lawn to be moist, but not soggy. Irrigate a day or two before aeration if soil is dry.
June Notes
Bees are essential pollinators. A variety of flower shapes and colors will attract bees to a garden. Look for flowers and plants that are native to this area for growing ease, adaptation to the local climate, and to serve as an attractant to honeybees.
Basil and cilantro planted now will produce fresh herbs all summer. Both annuals do well in pots, love sun and ample water (easy to control if the herbs are in pots). Start basil from seedlings, but sow cilantro seeds directly in the pot – they germinate quickly. Begin harvesting when plants reach 6 inches tall.
Deep-water established plants often enough to prevent wilt and promote deep rooting as temperatures start to rise. Check the soil moisture around roots with a moisture meter probe or by digging down with a trowel. Soaker hoses apply water directly to the soil with very little evaporation.
Lawns need about two inches of water per week during the summer heat. To determine lawn sprinklers' output, place several flat-bottomed containers (such as tuna cans) around the lawn, turn on the sprinklers for a half hour and then measure the water in the containers. Adjust the sprinkler coverage if needed and reset the amount of time they water according to the results of the timed test.
- Author: Regina Brennan, Master Gardener
Spring is indeed a wonderful time of year. Perennials that have been in a rest-and-relaxation mode suddenly burst into glorious color with no effort from the custodians of the landscape: the home gardener. The sudden burst of color reminds us that there is indeed a season for everything under heaven. The months of April, May, and June are busy with excitement of what to plant, what needs maintenance, and what needs to be eliminated. High on the elimination list are the annual spring weeds and non-performing landscape plants. Our winter preparation and planning are over and it is time for action. For all of us who are senior gardeners, it is also a time of discovery. We may notice that parts of our aging bodies that worked fairly well last year may not be able to do as much or last as long while working to maximize the beauty of our landscape. The saying that we desire to “do as much as we can for as long as we can” takes on new meaning. Mindfulness is an essential component to keep with us as we tackle the chores of spring gardening.
- APRIL: Divide perennials before they leaf out and make room for them to grow. Fellow gardeners usually enjoy swapping with others to get new colors or varieties. It is definitely more fun to gift others with something new rather than dump them in the compost bin.
- Clean up any remaining debris from winter which can often hide snails and slugs. Don't kill a population of beetles or other insects found under garden debris. There are many beneficial insects that feed on undesirable pests. Do some research so beneficial insects can be recognized and protected.
- Keep on top of the weeds and remove them before they go to seed in order to keep weeding chores to a minimum. Letting seed heads fall back into the soil is planting a new crop of weeds for next year.
- Dig out spring bulbs when their foliage has browned unless the intent to let them naturalize. Not all bulbs do well the following year if they are left in the ground.
- Feed both flowering plants and edibles. Keeping up with fertilizing will ensure lovely flowers and bountiful crops.
- MAY: Check and repair irrigation equipment. If you find yourself in over your head, seek help from a professional.
- If planning an edible garden, seeds should be planted to take advantage of the warming soil before the heat of summer sets in.
- Maintain garden tools. Hoes and weeders get a heavy workout going after weeds. Keep them sharp, clean, and in good working order. If the tools are no longer comfortable to use, go shopping at a well stocked nursery and purchase ones of the newer ergonomically designed tools for arthritis.
- Replenish mulch. Fresh mulch will give a fresh new look to the landscape. Even the weeds look better.
- Remove fall planted annuals. Even though they may still look good, they will quickly die when the summer heat arrives.
- JUNE: Deadhead flowering plants to keep them blooming longer.
- As spring days turn warmer towards the coming heat of summer, be sure to monitor the water needs of your landscape.
- As problems or questions arise, help is available through the Master Gardener website: http://sjmastergardeners.ucanr.edu, the Master Gardener at helpline: 209-953-6112, or the UC IPM website www.ipm.ucdavis.edu.
Source material: Sunset Western Garden Book
A Valley Gardener's Journal for Year-Round Blooms: SJC Master Gardeners UCCE
- Author: Morris Lacey, Master Gardener and Master Food Preserver
It is spring, and I can hear Lou Rawls on the radio in my mind singing “You are going to miss my Lovage!” While not late in the midnight hour (baby), if you have ever had it and now lack it, you are missing lovage. Mine has yet to reappear from the winter rest!
Ever find yourself without that key ingredient for a special meal or drink? No celery, parsley, or cilantro for that 
Lovage is a tall perennial plant and is the only species in genus Levisticum (making it Levisticum officinale). European gardeners have long been familiar with this plant, using the leaves as an herb, the roots as a vegetable, and the seeds as a spice. The plant is suited well to our area/zone (3-9) and comes back after a dormant period from the ground, often being one of the first up. It can grow to 7' and may be used as a background border to any garden. It likes full sun but will tolerate partial shade while remaining a smaller version of itself when grown in well-drained sandy-loamy soils of 6.5 pH. Allow some room for this 32” wide plant. Lovage is a great companion plant for potatoes and other tubers.
This herb is loaded with vitamin C and several B vitamins. Leaves are used in various broths in comparable amounts to dill and parsley. Seeds can be substituted for fennel. Both uses provide a more intense flavor of the herb/spice.
The root is also edible. It contains furanocoumarins (as does grapefruit) and can lead to photosensitivity, so please take note. Some European countries use lovage dried root and seeds to flavor cabbage and cucumbers (quick pickling). It also provides a lovely flavor to bread and butter pickles!
Uniquely, the stem is rhomboidal and somewhat hollow – which allows for its use as a straw with your Bloody Mary at brunch. It can also be substituted for celery in bread stuffing or soup flavorings.
Plants may be generated from seed with significant effort (may require starting indoors – soil needs to be 60°F); however, the plant is available at many nurseries. It reseeds readily in and around the mature plant and may be shared with your friends as new plants emerge! Seeds will arrive in late summer from umbels of yellow flowers. In the United Kingdom, the seeds are used to produce an alcoholic cordial used with brandy for a winter drink. Seeds may also be used to flavor oils and vinegars.
Oh boy! The radio in my mind is now playing Gary Lewis and the Playboys “Love Potion #9”. While the recipe below doesn't “smell like turpentine” or “look like India ink”, it does produce a nice tea made from the lovage plant. Folklore can provide insight into so many of life's mysteries.
LOVE POTION #9: Grind one handful of dried lovage (blossoms, leaves, stems, and roots) to a coarse powder. Place one tablespoon of powder in a tea strainer and pour boiling hot water over the strainer in a cup. Steep for 15 minutes. Share with a close friend - and sip slowly!
While your lovage grows, take care to keep your eyes open for aphids and leaf miners. These are the primary pests of this beautifully delicious addition to your garden! Consider companion plants which deter/repel these pests – marigolds or chrysanthemums are good choices.
- Author: Lee Miller, Master Gardener
One that I am interested in planting at my new home this year is ‘Appalachia' an eastern redbud with special qualities that makes it a good choice for a low maintenance, small shade tree. It reaches 15 to 25 feet tall with a similar spread. It blooms in March-April with Fuchsia pink to red blossoms which attract bees and hummingbirds. It can handle part shade to full sun with medium water requirements and can handle clay soils. It is adapted to handle temperatures in zones 4-9. It also has golden foliage in the fall so a tree with many positive features. They tolerate some shade as the genus has evolved as an understory tree.
There are also weeping redbuds that are smaller and get only about 8-10 feet tall. One is ‘white weeping vanilla' which has white flowers and another two with tradition flower colors are Ruby Falls' and ‘Lavender twist'.
Annual:
Scabiosa are smaller fringier flowers and the Precious line are more compact plants with 4-inch blooms. You can usually find single colors for sale or a mix of colors. For a look at cultivars of Zinnia see:
https://www.johnnyseeds.com/flowers/zinnias/?sz=18&start=18Or: https://www.swallowtailgardenseeds.com/annuals/zinnias.html
