- Author: Deborah Schnur
Ever since Senate Bill 1383 took effect earlier this year, local governments and organizations across California have been scrambling to develop strategies to recycle organic waste. Schools are no exception. As I discussed in my February blog, SB 1383 requires our state to reduce organic waste disposal by 75% and increase edible food recovery by 20% by 2025 (relative to 2014 levels). California schools and universities generate over 560,000 tons of waste per year according to CalRecycle.[1] While implementing programs to reduce and recycle waste, schools are in a unique position to teach youth about a wide variety of environmental topics including resource conservation, composting, and food rescue.
A good way for schools to start developing a waste handling strategy is to conduct a waste audit. The main goal is to characterize the type, quantity, and source of materials being discarded. An audit is often part of a more comprehensive assessment to evaluate school district policies and procedures that affect waste generation. In 2014, CalRecycle performed a waste characterization study using 45 samples from K-12 schools.[2] The study showed that the largest components of the waste stream were organics (50.8%), paper (31.4%), and plastic (12.7%). The organics category included food, plant material, and some textiles.
I recently helped Cassidy Furnari, the Upland School District Farm to School Program Manager, conduct a lunchtime cafeteria waste audit at Upland High School. The Farm to School Program is part of the Nutrition Services Department, which is concerned about food waste and cost. Cassidy and I recruited members of the school garden club, GRO (Grow Recycle Organize), to participate in the audit to empower them to promote change on campus. The students are currently preparing to present their results at an upcoming Board of Education meeting.
The first step we took in planning our waste audit was to write a brief project plan. To keep the project manageable, we decided to perform an audit during a typical 30-minute lunch period. Upland High School has over 3000 students who all eat at the same time. Only seniors are allowed to leave campus during lunch.
To avoid influencing student behavior, we didn't make any major changes to the meal service or trash disposal. Rather than asking students to sort their own waste, we placed distinctive purple liners inside existing trash containers shortly before the lunch period. The week before the audit we counted over 90 trash containers in the areas where students eat lunch.
During the planning process, we informed and consulted with the school administration, cafeteria staff, custodial staff, and parents of the garden club members. We also asked for help from our friends at the Community Composting for Green Spaces Grant Program to tap into their experience with waste audits.
To design our data collection sheets, we considered what questions we wanted to answer. What is the total weight of the waste? How much of the waste is food, paper, plastic, aluminum, and glass? How much can be composted or recycled? How much uneaten cafeteria food can be recovered? By answering these questions and others, we can help the Nutrition Services Department make more sustainable and economical food purchasing and packaging decisions.
After a month of planning, the big day of the waste audit finally arrived on March 9th. Our team consisted of nine people from Upland Farm to School and Community Composting for Green Spaces. Our first tasks were placing purple bags in the trash receptacles and setting up a staging area to sort the waste. Before we knew it, the lunch period had come and gone, and the hard work of collecting the bags and sorting the waste began. Sorting was much messier and more tedious than I had expected, especially since we had over 30 waste categories. The garden club members joined us after school to help count, weigh, and record the items in different waste categories. We eventually finished tallying the results and cleaning up six hours after we started. It was a long day!
What did we learn from our waste audit? Although we're still analyzing the results, we've already answered our initial questions. The total waste generated in a single lunch period was 370 lbs. The two largest types of waste material by weight were food (63%) and paper (19%), and more than 80% of the waste was compostable or recyclable. Students threw away over 200 pieces of uneaten whole fruit and 40 unopened cartons of milk, which potentially could have been recovered. Every question we answer gives rise to new questions and new ways to examine the data. We're already thinking about performing a waste audit at an elementary school to see how the waste profile compares.
I hope this story inspires you to support waste reduction, recycling, and recovery efforts in your local schools. Stay tuned for an update on my journey into school waste auditing in a future blog!
[1] CalRecycle. School Waste Reduction Programs. https://calrecycle.ca.gov/recycle/schools
[2] CalRecycle. School Waste Composition. https://calrecycle.ca.gov/recycle/schools/composition
- Author: Margaret J O'Neill
Around the office and at events Roxana was always full of gardening questions and really showed an interest in learning more and improving her skills. Her genuine interest and enthusiasm for gardening was inspiring and she always wanted to the take the program but couldn't quite yet due to her busy schedule. During the COVID pandemic, Master Gardener Coordinator Maggie O'Neill graduated another class of Master Gardeners, including (lucky for us!) Roxana!
Right away she saw what a need there was to offer the classes and information we had for the public about growing food, sustainable landscaping and better living through gardening to the Spanish speaking audience. Roxana was ready to get started right away on translating presentations and teaching classes in Spanish. With her leading the way, we began offering classes in Spanish every month and also held “Ask a Master Gardener” times where we answered questions in Spanish for the public. With Roxana's help, other Spanish speaking Master Gardeners volunteered at information tables, events and gave presentations. Roxana's enthusiastic personality and genuine interest in growing her own knowledge as a gardener and program ambassador has helped us reach many new audiences! Her genuine desire to make a difference coupled with her knowledge about improving mental and physical health through gardening have made her an invaluable contributor to our Master Gardener program. We look forward to continuing to expand and develop our Spanish language gardening outreach with Roxana and know with her determination she is really “growing” places!!
Let's hear a little bit more about Roxana in her own words!
Hi there!! My name is Roxana Price, and I was asked to describe my experience as a Master Gardener with you. Before
I became a Master Gardener in 2021 through the online course (due to the COVID pandemic). I have to say, if it wasn't for the MG program being offered online at the time, perhaps I would not have been able to achieve such an endeavor, and that to me was the silver lining I needed. (But it would be a lie if I told you I did not miss the in-person interaction.)
Prior to becoming a Master Gardener, I remembered simple things I had learned in school long ago about flowers, seeds, the process of growing plants, and fruits, and vegetables. I realized I had become accustomed to purchasing my fruits, veggies, and plants at grocery stores, not making the connection that I too could grow, plant, harvest my own food. The Master Gardener class provided infinite possibilities and options for my family and me and provided another tool under my belt to better serve the community I work, and live in. Especially my gente (people), the Spanish speaking community, where now I can share evidenced based gardening tips in Spanish to!
Presently, I am experimenting with composting and preparing space for my future vegetable garden. I have learned that planning is key to successful gardening. I have learned to propagate my house plants and have gained a tip or two about proper watering techniques. I am far from being an expert on gardening, but I have discovered that the more I experiment and put what I have learned in the Master Gardener program to practice, the better my garden will be. I love being connected to the Master Gardener community, and the volunteers in it. I have plenty of resources, and plenty of volunteers that are willing to lend a hand or a tip. In addition, I get my “fitbit” steps at the events throughout the San Bernardino community I volunteer at as a Master Gardener and connect with members that, like me, enjoy gardening, and building community.
I look forward to continue to volunteer as a UCCE San Bernardino County Master Gardener for many years to come. I am also presently enrolled in the Master Food Preserver class. There is No stopping this chica (girl). That is right, I will be able to grow, harvest, and now preserve my own food 2022! I hope my husband is prepared to be the test taster! I am forever grateful to have had the opportunity to work, and learn, and play with the San Bernardino UCCE team. I hope that my shared experience inspires the next Master Gardener prospect to become certified Master Gardener too. Hope to see you around the gardening watering hole, peeps!!
By Barbara Dawson (on behalf of the UCCE San Bernardino County Master Gardener Drought Committee)
Landscape irrigation in California accounts for 1/3 to 1/2 of all residential water use. Due to the current drought and impacts of urban heat islands, planting drought and heat resistant, environmentally friendly landscape plants is important. Currently sixty-six percent of the state is now considered to be in a severe drought (drought.gov) with droughts expected to be more common and frequent over the coming decades.
Planning ahead is important! Let's reconsider the grassy cool-season lawn (tall fescue, bluegrass, ryegrass). While all living plants cools urban heat islands as they grow (through transpiration), cool season lawns require about 30% more water than warm season lawns (Bermudagrass, buffalograss) and many types of drought-resistant groundcovers. Also, since sprinkler irrigation is not as efficient as drip irrigation and much of the water applied never reaches the rootzone of the plants, even more water is often wasted. (Please remember that artificial grass, asphalt, and dark colored mulch super-heat our urban heat islands and should be avoided in inland and desert areas!)
If it makes sense in your specific situation to remove your lawn and replace it with lower maintenance plants that save time and money, what steps do you need to take to be successful? First and foremost, plan ahead. 
Once there is a plan it is time to get rid of the grass. This is no fun but keep the end goal in mind. There are several options: let the grass die (by not watering it), use a sod removal machine, or cover the grass with old carpeting or newspaper covered with mulch. Using a sod removal machine will gain the quickest results. The other options may take one to six months. Once the grass is gone check the remaining soil for sod netting although this doesn't necessarily need to be all gone before planting begins. When planting, group plants with like watering needs together (hydrozone). Check the plant tags for the height and width they'll reach when mature and make sure there's adequate space as well as their drought and heat tolerance. Consider this when planting. There will be some bald areas between the plantings at the start. Allow plenty of space if you're planning on adding trees! They should not be crowded out. Before adding new plants wait until the first ones fill out. It's ok to have a few plants that need moderate water but make sure they are in their own hydrozone.
Water regularly (once or more per week) until the plants are established (a season or two) and then go longer between waterings to let the roots dry down some and avoid root rot. Adding organic matter (such as compost) to planting sites that will not be used for trees may be useful since it helps retain water in sandy soils and enhances drainage in heavier clay soils. Check the soil to determine how often to water. Sandy soils require watering much more often than clay soils. Many natives and succulents require a fast draining soil. Continue to pull out weeds and grass clumps. After one year reassess the garden. Do you want to add more plants, take out those that are not working, add more rocks? Consider this a work in progress until you're satisfied.
One last comment. Like most gardens this will take work. But, in the end, your yard will attract pollinators and beneficial insects and you will save many gallons of water (which will result in a savings on the water bill). Southern California is an arid zone so let's create a more fitting space.
- Author: Margaret J O'Neill
Have you found yourself in the garden looking at a plant and wondering what is going on with those leaves? You think your plant is getting enough, but not too much, water but it just doesn't look right. Or have you been out checking your veggies and seen strange bugs and wondered what they are and if they and are they harmful to your plants? Do you have an old tree in the yard that is just not looking its best and wonder what to do?
Well, we have the resource for you!! Our Helpline is here for you! Our helpline is a free resource for the community where we answer questions on a wide variety of topics. Some examples include: what vegetables to plant this time of year; what is eating your plants; why are your plant's leaves twisting; what type of tree would be good for your area; why are your tomatoes not producing; how should I use compost or mulch in my garden; how do I fertilize my plants; what is the best way to manage ants and other pests in my yard; what type of tree is this in my new back yard……and much more…but you get the idea! We get questions about anything and everything gardening related and we love to help!
Kelly, one of our Master Gardener helpline volunteers says:
“We at San Bernardino Master Gardener Helpline learn from our clients every time we pick up the phone or read email inquiry. It's a mutual sort of learning like a cross pollination of information that occurs when fielding the broad range of questions from our residents in surrounding communities (& Sunset Growing Zones). Whether it's about identifying a strange crop from client photos or how to deal with pests in productive ways, researching these subjects to provide practical real-time answers is always interesting and fun, because gardens and gardening are ultimately about sharing food, flowers, information, and experiences. The MG helpline is a strong hub of researched information and resource gathering which helps us to grow our program, because we communicate with so many clients from all the surrounding regions and Sunset Growing Zones consistently, Monday through Friday of every week. I really enjoy being a part of the MG Helpline Team and serving as a San Bernardino Master Gardener since 2017. I think my fellow Master Gardeners would agree that working the MG Helpline has made us strong, more informed representatives for the Master Gardener Program in the field at events and working on community projects, and I look forward to learning more.”
Master Gardener Helpline volunteer Loleta adds: “The Helpline is one of the world's best-kept secrets. It's a place where people can get answers they can trust. Our answers are based in science and research, and they're specific to our western climate zones.” So, if you know about the helpline or have been using it be sure to pass the information on to friends and family so that everyone knows we are a free gardening hotline here to help you out every step of the way!! ….and don't forget that the only silly question is the one that you don't ask, so don't be shy…send us an email or give us a call today! We are looking forward to hearing from you and taking the mysteries out of gardening!
So how do you use this resource? It's free and available to you 24/7! Just send us an email or give us a call (contact information at end of blog) and leave a message and we will get back to you within a day or two and get to solving your challenges! It's great when you can send us photos of your troubled plants as well, and that is a big help in having us figure out what's going on in the garden.
Typically, a phone call to the helpline will go like this: you will call and leave a message with your question and contact information and then we will research the topic and get back to you. We often will get back to you with some follow up questions to help focus in on specific details so we can give you the best answer possible and follow up with an email if possible. Email questions are great since you can send photos! We respond to your emails in a timely way that often includes follow-up questions to clarify your issue/problem. Besides finding an immediate solution, our goal is to provide resources for you to use in the future that help you find solutions as problems occur, and mostly, to prevent the problems from occurring in the first place! As another one of our Helpline volunteers, Cindy, (who is also the Helpline committee lead, helping to organize Master Gardener volunteers and manage the Helpline infrastructure) says “I can tell that many of the people who use the Helpline have really come to depend on it in a personal way and that (we) are dedicated to helping them no matter how hard or mysterious the questions are. It's like being the detectives of the gardening world.” So let us help you with your garden mysteries!!
Many members of the public use this resource regularly and we are so happy to see that they know we are here for them to help with their gardening journey's and adventures, but still there are people out there who don't know about it!
Helpline Contact information for all areas of San Bernardino County:
Phone number: 909-387-2182
Email: mgsanbern@ucanr.edu
- Author: Gretchen Heimlich-Villalta
Integrated Pest Management: Building on the Basics
This month, I'd like to continue building on the basics of integrated pest management. If you recall, there are five main components to a successful IPM program1:
- Pest identification
- Field monitoring and population assessment
- Control action guidelines
- Preventing pest problems
- Integrating biological, chemical, cultural, and physical/mechanical management tools
Preventing Pest Problems
A large percentage of pest problems can be traced back to issues with cultural practices—that is, meeting basic plant needs through good water management, healthy soil, proper nutrients, and appropriate site and plant selection. A pathogen (a microorganism that causes disease) can only cause disease when three elements are present: a susceptible host, the pathogen itself, and a favorable environment. This relationship can be visualized in the disease triangle, with each element represented by a side of the triangle.
Preventive practices eliminate one or more of the elements of the disease triangle. The care you take as the manager of your landscape can improve your plant's ability to protect itself, giving it the best chance of enduring the things we can't prevent—like pathogens, pests, drought, weather extremes, and other stressors. Preventive practices can also make it more difficult for pests and pathogens to thrive. This will reduce the need for pesticides and other management strategies.
Starting with Soil
Plants are autotrophs, which means they can produce their own energy through photosynthesis. However, they rely heavily on the soil for elements crucial to their survival, like water, stability, and nutrients. Because the soil is so vital to plant health, caring for the soil must be central to any IPM program.
Soil Composition
Oxford languages defines soil as “the upper layer of earth in which plants grow.” It is made up of inorganic minerals, organic matter, soil organisms and microorganisms, gases, and water. From a physical standpoint, there are a few key soil terms and concepts you should understand. Let's go through them quickly
Soil inorganic minerals come from the weathering of rock, and are grouped by size; soil texture refers to the percentage of these groups—sand, silt, and clay—in a soil and is represented in the soil textural triangle below. Loam refers to a mix of these three groups. Soil texture largely determines a soil's nutrient- and water-holding capacity. Plant roots need both water and air, so good soil should have a balance of drainage and water-holding capacity. Soil with ideal moisture content will have 25% air and 25% water. Because of its larger particles, sandy soil tends to drain well, but doesn't hold water or nutrients well. On the other hand, finer-textured soils (clay and silt) hold more water and nutrients, but often don't drain well. However, adding soil organic matter to sandy soil will help it hold water, and adding it to fine-textured soils will help it hold nutrients.
Soil organic matter (SOM) is any soil material produced originally by living organisms that is returned to the soil and decomposed. This includes the soil organisms themselves (bacteria, fungi, plants, insects, animals, etc.), plus their waste and other byproducts. SOM is vital to soil function in many ways, so I'll go into more detail about it later.
Soil Structure
Soil structure refers to how soil particles and organic matter are arranged into aggregates, or groups of bound particles. Aggregate stability is the ability of aggregates to withstand breakdown by outside forces, like water. It's important for preventing erosion. Pores are the spaces between and within aggregates that allow movement of water and air into the soil—and the growth of plant roots! Adding organic matter to both sandy and fine (silt and clay) soil will encourage soil aggregation.
Compaction happens when soil aggregates and pores are broken down through activities like heavy traffic and tillage. It impedes root growth and the movement of air and water in the soil. Bulk density is an indicator of soil compaction calculated as the dry weight of soil divided by its volume.
Soil Nutrients
The 15 essential soil nutrients are the more well-known elements of soil. The macronutrients are needed in larger amounts by plants, and consist of: 1) primary nutrients nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), which are most often deficient in soils, and 2) secondary nutrients calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S), which tend to be deficient in soils less often. The nine remaining nutrients are micronutrients, which the plant requires in very small quantities. These are boron (B), chlorine (Cl), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), nickel (Ni), and zinc (Zn). In California, the most common deficiencies are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, and iron. Boron, chloride, and sodium, on the other hand, are more commonly present at toxic levels.
Soil pH
Another important physical component of soil is pH. pH is a measure of how acidic or basic soil is. It ranges from 0 to 14: 0 is most acidic, 14 is most basic, and 7 is neutral. Most crops prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.5. Acidity is a measurement of how many hydrogen ions are in the soil, and pH can impact soil chemistry in numerous ways. pH extremes may increase the solubility of toxic mineral elements like aluminum and manganese, or increase the concentration of soluble salts, all of which are detrimental to the plant. pH also impacts which organisms can survive in the soil, which will also impact your plant. Of chief concern to the landscape manager is that plant nutrients become insoluble in water, and unavailable to plants, if the pH is too low or too high. The table below illustrates this fact.
Soil Quality vs. Soil Health
If the information I've presented here feels overwhelming, don't worry. Many have shared your experience, including me. If you've made it this far, though, you've shown admirable perseverance and curiosity. And this information isn't going anywhere. Bookmark this page and come back to it periodically; it will start to make more sense over time. Understanding the physical attributes of soil, or soil quality, is not only important in its own right, but it's also foundational to what I'd call the more exciting stuff—soil health.
Soil health moves beyond the physical attributes of soil to include the whole soil ecosystem—all the life in the soil, great and small—not just plants. It is “the capacity of soil to function as a vital living system, within ecosystem and land-use boundaries, to sustain plant and animal productivity, maintain or enhance water and air quality, and promote plant and animal health”[i]. Soil health is critical not only to integrated pest management, but also to human health and the health of our planet. So check out my next blog to hear more!
Author info:
Gretchen Heimlich-Villalta is an ISA™ certified arborist who has been a San Bernardino County Master Gardener since 2014. She received her AS in Integrated Pest Management from Mt. San Antonio College, where she has helped teach IPM since 2020. She received BA degrees in Creative Writing and Photography, and is currently working on her Ph.D. in Plant Pathology at the University of California, Riverside, where she is researching citrus root and soil health; she also helps manage the Strub Avenue Community Garden in Whittier.
[i] Doran and Zeiss, 2000.
