- Author: Christine Casey
It's the first week of spring at the Haven and our plants are starting to look their best. For those of you who cannot make it to the garden this week, here's a brief tour of what's going on. For those who can make it, I've included some of the bees to look for.
The garden is currently open, although the cities of Davis and Sacramento are now recommending shelter-in-place. If this expands to other areas or becomes mandatory, the garden will close. Check our web page for the latest information.
Now blooming at the Haven:
Ceanothus, many species. For more detail on this genus, see this previous post.
Western redbud, Cercis occidentalis. This plant provides bright pink flowers early in the year, while leafcutter bees use its foliage for nest construction throughout the summer. This California native needs full sun and little to no summer water. It grows slowly, so it's worth buying a larger size for your own garden. It may be fed on by the redhumped caterpillar; damage occurs towards the end of the season so control is not needed.
Brandegee's sage, Salvia brandegii. This is a long-blooming California native sage. As you can see from the photo, which shows one plant, it can get quite large. Flowering from late January through May, pair it with the summer blooming native Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii) for season-long bloom. It also needs full sun and low summer water.
Bladderpod, Isomeris arborea. This is another long-blooming California native. It is at its peak in the spring, but will produce some flowers year-round. Our single plant is about 6 feet by 6 feet. Needs full sun and little to no summer water.
Firecracker penstemon, Penstemon eatonii. This bright red California native is used more by hummingbirds than bees, and adds a jolt of color to the early spring garden. It's soon to be followed by the foothill penstemon, a bee favorite. The firecracker penstemon can take part shade and will re-bloom if given some water after the first flush of flowers. Like most of our native penstemons, it will go dormant in the heat of the summer, at which point watering should stop.
Bees to look for this week include honey bees and the blacktailed bumble bee, Bombus melanopygus. The latter seems to like the Brandegee's sage, so look for it there.
- Author: Christine Casey
UPDATE March 17, 2020
Due to coronavirus restrictions, all programs at the Haven have been canceled through May. The September pruning class remains open for registration. We will reschedule the spring classes if possible. Thank you for your understanding.
I'm excited to announce our 2020 class schedule at the Haven, which includes old favorites as well as a new class. Continual learning and experimentation are at the core of what gardeners do, and I hope these offerings will help you expand your knowledge and success as a bee gardener. I'll be the instructor for all classes.
First up is our popular Planting the Bee Garden class. Bee pollination brings us much of our food and supports most of our wild plants. Interest in helping bee pollinators has never been greater, but what can you do in your own garden to make sure it is bee friendly? We'll review the basics of bee biology as a foundation for understanding how garden design and plant selection can be optimized for bees.
We'll also learn about some of the latest research on bees and gardens and how to incorporate this into your garden. The class will conclude with a tour of the Haven for a hands-on look at plants and bees. Registration includes light breakfast and snacks and course handouts.
This class is being offered twice; content is the same each time. April 25, 8am to 11am, register here. May 16, 8am to 11am, register here.
Returning from its initial offering last year is Bee Watching for Beginners. Observing and identifying live bees can be challenging. If you'd like to become more adept at identifying the bees in your garden, this is the class for you. We'll start with an overview of bee anatomy and learn how to distinguish bees from other insects.
We'll then look at key features of common bees that can be used to identify them in flight. The class will finish in the Haven for hands-on experience observing and identifying bees. Interested students will have the opportunity to use a microscope for closer examination of bee structure.
April 25, 12pm to 3pm, register here.
The final spring class is a new offering, Bee Photography. Bees are among the most challenging insects to photograph, and the goal of this class is to help you better document your own bee observations. We'll start with an overview of bee biology and movement in the garden, followed by a discussion of the tips and techniques used by insect photographers. Participants will have the opportunity to use some of the Haven's bee photography tools and to photograph identified bee specimens.
May 16, 12pm to 3pm, register here.
Also offered last year for the first time, Pruning the Bee Garden will be returning in the fall. Bee gardens are all about flowers, and pruning the Haven's plants is an essential part of creating ample flowers for our bees. In this class we'll learn about the physiology and science behind pruning of ornamental plants and fruit trees, discuss pruning strategies for increasing bloom, review pruning of California native shrubs, and practice pruning in the Haven.
The time for the class has been expanded from last year to allow a more in-depth lecture and ample time for student practice in the garden. Handouts and light refreshments included.
September 26, 9am to 12pm, register here.
- Author: Christine Casey
We've all seen them....garden catalogs or magazine articles with cute little bee houses hanging like birdfeeders, or entire fences made of nesting tubes for solitary bees. We even had them at the Haven -- for a while -- in the form of bee condos. The only problem? They often don't work, and may even do more harm than good.
This is not limited to bee houses; previous investigation by Mihail Garbuzov and Francis Ratnieks of the University of Sussex found similar misinformation surrounding bee plant lists. They reviewed lists published for various regions worldwide, and found large variation in recommended plants, even within the same region. The science behind the lists, such as university research or repeated monitoring by trained observers, was also often unclear.
So what's a conscientious bee gardener to do?
Bee houses
I've written extensively about solitary bee houses on this blog. In the wild, bees nest in abandoned beetle galleries in trees. This environment is dark, stationary, and made of wood, and can inform our choice of solitary bee housing. Consider the following:
1. Bees will use a nesting tube diameter that corresponds to their body size. A good range of sizes for common bees is 3/16 to 5/16 inch. Tubes should be 4 to 6 inches deep; anything shorter will produce predominantly male bees.
2. Bees will not use houses or nesting blocks that move or are open in the back
3. A shaded entrance is important; even a piece of burlap draped over the top of the nest can work
4. Bee houses constructed of wood seem to be preferred
5. Position house with entrance out of the prevailing wind
6. Pathogens can build up in bee houses as they are used; they cannot be sterilized with bleach or other disinfectants. 'Cleaning' the used nesting tube with a drill bit or brush is likely to push pathogens into the wood. Houses (in the case of wood blocks) or individual tubes should be replaced after they are used.
7. Consider all dimensions. Bees may nest in hollow stems that are not horizontal.
A fact sheet about building and using solitary bee houses is here.
Bee garden plant selection
- Author: Christine Casey
The Haven is all about teaching, research, and outreach to save the bees. Our programs are consistently rated highly by our visitors; we've grown every year of our existence and would love for that to continue. For details about our past accomplishments, please see our annual reports: 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, and 2014.
A grant that provided half of our support recently ended, and I am seeking your support to help keep these successful programs going.
What you can do:
1. Donate here. The Haven is supported solely by grants, donations, and volunteers. A generous Häagen-Dazs gift established the garden, but Häagen-Dazs does not provide ongoing support. Recent funding has come from the California Department of Food and Agriculture, the UC Davis College of Agriculture and Environmental Sciences, the USDA, and the California Center for Urban Horticulture.
Individuals and local clubs such as the Roseville Better Gardens Club and the Sacramento Area Beekeepers Association have also made much-appreciated donations.
If the 3500 people who've attended a tour, Haven event, or class so far this year each gave $10, we'd be covered for seven months. While large donations are great, many small donations are just as important.
2. Attend our fall fundraiser on September 21. Details will be posted soon on the Haven's web page.
Thank you. Together we can keep this unique garden going strong.
- Author: Christine Casey
I've had several questions recently about the Bambeco solitary bee house sold at Costco (they sell the Swiss Alps model), so I decided to head to my local store to check it out. While the price is amazing, the house has a few features that are not so ideal. For details on what makes a good solitary bee house, see here and here.
What's good:
The depth. At 4.5 inches deep, it is sufficiently deep to allow the production of female and male bees.
What's not so good:
The nesting tube diameter. While the variety of diameters is good, solitary bees need tubes from 3/16 to 5/16 in diameter. While other arthropods, such as spiders, may use the larger tubes, they will not be used by bees.
Limited protected overhang. The nesting tubes should be placed so that the entrance has a bit of protection. That's why we make our houses at least an inch longer than the tubes.
The nesting tubes are glued in place. Once a tube is used it should be replaced to help prevent the build up of pathogens.
March 13, 2019: winter update
The bee house is not holding up well to the winter weather. Here's a photo showing some superficial mold as well as separation of the sides from the base. Note that I added extra protection by attached redwood fence boards to increase the cover of the roof.
March 27, 2019: comments on the 2019 model
Update July 1, 2019
The Bambeco bee house shown above is not holding up well to the weather. After three months outside (there was one week of rain during this period), the paint on the roof is peeling.
Update October 7, 2019
I have discarded the 2019 bee house. The paint continued to peel and the wood on the roof started to split. I removed the wooden blocks in the front of the house and will use these next year. For folks who have been asking what a correctly designed bee house looks like, here is an example of the one we sell at the Haven. 
What makes it correct:
1. It's made out of redwood; studies have shown that bees prefer to nest in wood.
2. The depth and diameter of the nesting tubes are correct. The holes are drilled 5 inches deep, and the openings range from 3/16 to 5/16 inch in diameter.
3. Paper straws have been inserted into the 1/4 inch diameter holes (this is the only size straw available). This means that the tube can be cleaned out after use. I suggest plugging the others with wood filler after use so that they are not re-used.
4. The front of the block has a pattern to it. This may help the bees recognize their individual nest entrance. There is also evidence that a blue front is more attractive to one of the mason bee species.
5. The block has a piece of burlap shading the entrance. Bees are more likely to use the blocks if the entrance is shaded.
