- Author/Editor: Cynthia Nations
- Author/Editor: Maggie Mah
Growing more fruits and vegetables than your family can eat is a great gardening “problem” to have. What did you grow last year that you shared with others? You probably won't have to think very long, because sharing is powerful, makes everyone happy, and creates lasting memories. During the contemporary plague known as COVID, many of us turned to our gardens as a way to maintain our physical and emotional well-being. Now, as we (hopefully) return to some sort of normal, our gardens can help us reconnect to others in very meaningful ways.
Vegetable gardens reach their peak in late summer. Tomatoes ripen at a rapid pace, squash and beans can't be harvested fast enough and people in your household start rolling their eyes at your latest zucchini creations. Figuring out what to do with all that fresh produce can be a dilemma. Some may channel their pioneering (or hippie) forebears by drying, freezing, or canning. All of these methods of preservation are laudable, but frankly take more time, space, and know-how than most of us have. Rather than having your produce go to waste or ending up in the compost pile, share the abundance you created with friends, neighbors, and even your whole community. Although this might provoke images of going door to door with a wheelbarrow (or providing a really good rationale for acquiring a vintage pick-up truck!) you can donate your fresh produce to local food banks. On a larger scale, two organizations are partnering to create a sustainable system of providing high quality vegetables and fruits to people with limited resources.
Each Green Corner (EGC, https://www.eachgreencorner.org) is an all-volunteer group that works to bridge the gap between home gardeners and places where members of the community can obtain fresh, healthy produce, thereby strengthening the connection between food security and public health. Inspired by the fact that interest in non-commercial agriculture was increasing throughout the area, the all-volunteer group saw the potential to leverage smaller, underutilized plots of land scattered throughout the area (residences, schools, parks, etc.) to grow fresh food for the culturally diverse population in the greater community. EGC works with home gardeners (each person “hosting” a garden is referred to as a “Garden Steward”) educating them to grow produce using sustainable practices that can supply produce to food-insecure community members in San Mateo County. EGC-supported gardens are not limited to private residences, however. Any underutilized plot of land, such as out-of-the-way areas of schools, community properties and other public spaces are considered fair game for creating gardens. In combination, each small-scale effort becomes part of something far more significant in the effort to create and maintain a healthier world.
EGC was founded as an official 501(c)(3) not-for-profit organization in 2018 and since then has worked to educate and assist people to harvest excess produce from each garden and donate the surplus to local non-profit food distribution organizations. To date, EGC has donated over 6500 pounds of produce from 15 sites throughout San Mateo County. EGC was recently named one of San Mateo County's Sustainability Heroes of 2022 (See https://sustainablesanmateo.org/). Each year, Sustainable San Mateo County (SSMC) recognizes the efforts of local organizations that make significant contributions in protecting the planet.
The University of California Master Gardeners Harvest for Neighbors project (H4N - https://smsf- mastergardeners.ucanr.edu/projects/harvest-for-neighbors/) aims to reduce food waste by ensuring all fruits and vegetables grown locally get used, to introduce more people to gardening, and to promote best practices of sustainable gardening. With the missions of H4N and Each Green Corner so closely aligned, it seemed only natural that they should work together. The two organizations have recently formed a partnership wherein UC Master Gardeners provide research, education, experience, and expertise to EGC “Garden Stewards” to assist them in developing and maintaining their gardens.
Bottom line: working together in gardens and donating fresh produce to food pantries in the Bay Area fosters a win-win scenario for all. Growers who are passionate about working in the garden can feel confident knowing that their skills have made a difference as their produce is shared.
If you like the idea of working with others to promote better nutrition and quality of life in your community but can't go all-in, there are great options to consider. One is to grow an extra row of whatever fruit or vegetable you might have in your garden. Another might be to volunteer at one of the Each Green Corner locations. More information can be found in the links provided above. The websites listed also contain information about food pantries that welcome home-grown food in the Bay Area.
The article was written and edited by UC Master Gardeners Cynthia Nations and Maggie Mah.
- Author: Maggie Mah
- Editor: Cynthia Nations
- Editor: Terry Lyngso
- Editor: Kelly Torikai
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We're learning a lot about micro-climates and how small variations in temperature, humidity, wind, and other factors determine what grows best in a particular location. There's not much one can do about any of those factors, but there is something you can do that will have a positive impact, no matter where you live or what might be going on in Earth's biosphere: you can improve any garden anywhere by improving the soil. It's easy to do, the results are dramatic, and the benefits extend beyond your garden.
Sand, Silt and Clay: Texture is here to stay
The soil beneath your feet has a basic nature according to the geological history of your location and the type of “parent material” (rocks) from which it was formed. “Soil texture” is defined according to the percentages of sand, silt, and clay. This is good to know because different soil textures have different properties and will affect things like water filtration and nutrient availability. Soil texture does not include organic matter. Here's where things get interesting: you cannot change soil texture, but you can make major changes to how it functions by adding organic matter.
Imagine a pile of rocks, a bucket of sand or a lump of clay as various types of soil texture. Now imagine trying to grow something in any of them. Without organic matter, it's not going to happen. So, what is organic matter? Simply put, organic matter is anything that is alive, or was once alive: plants, animals, insects, microbes are all broken down by the microbial community. Organic matter improves the capacity of soil to infiltrate and hold onto water and nutrients, and this makes it possible for plants to grow and thrive.
Healthy Soil: It's like a good party
Soil with plenty of organic matter teems with life. Like a good party, there are lots of interesting guests (microbes such as bacteria and fungi. Also insects, etc.), plenty of good food and drink (available nutrients and water), enough room to move (loose, non-compacted soil), and plenty of action. Viewed through a powerful microscope, a handful of healthy soil would reveal billions of organisms doing their job. Although organic matter may only make up 5% of your soil, it is the 10% of microbial life in the organic matter that is essential for all soil functions like water infiltration, nutrient cycling, carbon sequestration and plant health.
At the other end of the spectrum is unhealthy soil. Like a ghost town, the microbial residents have vanished, and the place is dusty. It cannot infiltrate and retain water effectively and is easily eroded. This sad state can be caused by several things including no plant or mulch cover, repeated tilling, compaction, excessive use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides.
How can I be sure my soil is healthy?
Effective use of organic materials such as compost can provide steady supplies of nutrients. This will create and maintain a desirable environment for the beneficial microorganisms that are essential for healthy soil. Did you know that leaving lawn clippings in place and allowing fallen leaves to remain is an effortless way to improve your soil? These are organic materials that break down quickly.
Keep it covered: Keeping soil covered with plants, leaves and organic mulch moderates soil temperature, conserves moisture, and prevents erosion while adding habitat and providing food for beneficial organisms. Remember all mulch eventually breaks down, so more needs to be applied either from leaves dropped by plants or from mulch applied by you.
Do not disturb: Avoid tilling or turning the soil. Instead, add a thin 3⁄8” layer of compost with a 2-3” layer of mulch on top and let nature do the work of aerating and opening things up. Be careful with leaf blowers by limiting their use to hardscape areas. This helps preserve valuable organic matter and topsoil and the beneficial microbes that live there.
Beyond the Garden Wall: Healthy soil has global implications
Carbon capture: Unlike carbon in the atmosphere, carbon stored in the soil is a good thing. Through a process known as “carbon sequestration,” soils can retain carbon in the form of organic matter, some of which is stable and some of which cycles. It is important to remember that plants and soil life are responsible for development of the organic matter that is held in soils. Recent studies show that soils alone trap about 25 percent of the world's annual fossil fuel emissions. So, if we want to sequester more carbon in the soil, we need more plants growing in a microbial diverse community.
Pesticide reduction: Just as healthy humans can more easily fight off diseases, plants grown in healthy soil are more naturally resistant to diseases. That means less reliance on pesticides.
Water efficiency: Healthy soil acts like a sponge: it holds onto water, so water is available to plants over an extended period. Good news for our climate with only winter rainfall. According to the USDA, every 1% increase in organic matter increases the soil's water holding capacity by as much as 25,000 gallons per acre. When water is stored in the ground, it also recharges groundwater. Healthy soil improves water quality by filtering out pollutants.
For more information on improving your soil, go to: https://marinmg.ucanr.edu/BASICS/SOIL_813/
For more help with your garden, ask a Master Gardener! Send your questions to mailto:mgsmsf@ucanr.edu
This article was written by Maggie Mah (who is surprised to be so excited about compost) and edited by Cynthia Nations, Terry Lyngso, Kelly Torikai, Nancy Kruberg, and Nick Landolfi, SM/SF UC Master Gardeners.
- Author: Cynthia Nations
- Author: Maggie Mah
- Editor: Maggie Mah
Like many things in life, the best results are achieved by working together. This is especially true with plants!
Although you may have heard about plants that are thought to aid in insect control, disease prevention or the benefits of pairing particular plants in certain areas, the latest research on “companion planting” goes far beyond random recommendations or traditional lore. The latest research reveals the need to look at our gardens in a more holistic way: as ecosystems where plants interact with each other to create a healthy, bio-diverse place. Key to understanding this concept is that plants actively affect each other. They do this through fungal associations, chemical messaging and allelopathy, which is the ability of one plant's chemistry to affect the growth and development of another. They also share resources, attract pest predators, and improve each other's nutrient availability and absorption.
When we plant one type of plant in an area, whether it's tomatoes or other vegetables, we create what is known as a “monoculture.” Although it makes large scale farming possible, monoculture leads to increased reliance on pesticides and chemical fertilizers. However, when we choose different plants to grow together, we create a “polyculture,” which leads to biodiversity. Why is this important? Biodiversity means a more stable environment for veggies and other plants to thrive by enhancing nutrient cycling, water conservation, fewer pests and ultimately, more carbon sequestration.
What is modern research-based companion planting? Scientists prefer terms like inter-cropping or inter-planting to describe creating a polyculture to achieve desired benefits in the garden. Using a scientific approach helps us to understand the why and how of successful planting combinations.
Jessica Walliser, author of “Plant Partners: Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden,” provides plant partnerships that have undergone scientific scrutiny and shares plant pairings that help to reduce pests, minimize disease, support pollination and improve soil fertility. Walliser's findings are the basis of this article.
Using science as your guide, gardening with companion plants will help you learn about your own unique corner of the world. Have fun as you experiment with plant combinations and create a bio-diverse habitat outside your door. You'll look at your garden in a whole new way as you observe the changes in color and texture--all the while appreciating the overall health in your garden.
Cynthia Nations is a UC Master Gardener who is currently learning and employing companion partnerships in her garden in El Granada. The article was co-authored and edited by Maggie Mah, a UC Master Gardener, who is trying to catch up with Cynthia Nations.
- Author: Stu Dalton
- Editor: Cynthia Nations
- Editor: Maggie Mah
Growing roses on the coast can be more of a challenge than in other parts of the Bay Area. Wind, higher humidity, cloudy weather, and salty air can thwart the gardener's quest for lovely blooms. However, conditions in coastal communities are highly variable—a rose that does well in one neighbor's yard might not thrive next door. But if you love roses and want to grow them in your coastal garden, here's what you need to know:
Some varieties are more likely to succeed:
Rose varieties that produce flowers with lots of petals are prone to rot if temperatures are too cool. If you are determined to have these big, “cabbage-y” blossoms, find a warm, sheltered area with lots of sun. If your location receives a lot of wind, “standard” or tree roses will need shelter and sturdy stakes to avoid being rocked or knocked down by the wind. Higher humidity means higher likelihood of fungal diseases such as rust and black spot so look for varieties that are disease resistant. The good news is that some roses are very tolerant of wind, salty air and poorer soils and actually thrive in harsher environments. Among these hardier types are “Rugosa” varieties, which are very similar to wild roses.
Pruning: it's not just for winter
There's nothing quite as lovely as the first exuberant flowering of our favorite rose bushes. This is what rose aficionados refer to as the first “flush.” Subsequent blooms of rose varieties that bloom multiple times are often smaller and/or less profuse so making some judicious mid-season cuts can help. Start by“deadheading” the spent blossoms by pruning the stems back to 1/4 inch above an outward facing five leaf set. Also prune out inward facing shoots to allow more air and light to reach the center. This will reduce the chances of fungal disease. Cut out any dead, diseased, or crossing canes. Note: make clean cuts, and disinfect your pruning shears before moving to the next bush to prevent spreading disease.
Roses that bloom once in a season require different treatment. These roses bloom on last year's wood so to have lots of blossoms in spring, do not prune them in winter. After they are done blooming, just shape the plant to fit your space and cut out any dead or diseased material.
Feed them well:
Roses are heavy feeders so start fertilizing after the last frost and as soon as growth starts to accelerate, usually around March. A good rule of thumb is to fertilize after each bloom cycle, gradually reducing the amount by half each time. Stop fertilizing 6-8 weeks before the start of the coldest nighttime temperatures to avoid new growth that would be susceptible to damage. Use a good “balanced” organic rose or flower fertilizer. “Balanced” means that the “NPK” numbers on the label are equivalent. “N” means nitrogen for growth above the ground or “Up.” “P” means phosphorous for root growth below ground and “K” stands for potassium, which is necessary for all around vigor. An easy way to remember is this time-tested expression, “Up, Down and All Around.”
Roses need small amounts of micronutrients so check the label to see if the fertilizer includes them. If you choose a time-release fertilizer with micronutrients, work them well into the soil near the root zone. Since they work slowly, they are less likely to burn than other concentrated forms of fertilizer and can therefore be closer to tender roots where nutrients can be utilized sooner.
Feed the soil, too, by adding plenty of organic materials such as compost and well-aged manure to your rose bed. Other great sources of organic material include alfalfa, cottonseed meal, fish emulsion or meal. Alfalfa is a balanced fertilizer that contains triacontanol, a growth stimulant. A convenient and economical source for alfalfa pellets is your local feed store. Check the label for pure alfalfa and avoid any kinds with molasses. You can also add beneficial fungus and bacteria (mycorrhizal plus “endo” and “ecto” bacteria). These provide a great boost to the nutrient absorbing power of the roots.
Water wisely:
Roses prefer deep, infrequent watering over light, daily watering. Deep watering promotes deeper, stronger roots and uses less water overall. If you use drip irrigation, make sure there are enough emitters to cover the root zone to the drip line.
Mulch is a must:
Mulch cools the ground, reduces water evaporation and makes for more fertile soil.
Apply at least 2 to 3 inches of mulch, keeping it about 6 inches away from the base of the rose. Replenish when it starts to break down. You can buy mulch from nurseries and home supply stores and many arborists are happy to supply you with wood chips for free.
Stu Dalton is a UC Master Gardener whose family has farmed in California since the 1850s. He is the former president of the Peninsula Rose Society. The article was edited by UC Master Gardeners Maggie Mah and Cynthia Nations.
- Author: Cynthia Nations
- Editor: Maggie Mah
Glorious, homegrown tomatoes are the rock stars of the summer garden. But since tomato plants usually need lots of sun and heat, what's a coastal gardener to do? Good news: there are tomato varieties that do well in areas that are cooler and where the summer sun is often obscured by marine layers or fog. Follow the growing tips below for a successful tomato season.
Seek out varieties that have been developed and tested to do well in microclimates that receive a lot of “coastal influence;” i.e., foggy and windy with typical daytime temperatures in the 60's and low 70's. These areas are classified as Zone C on the UCANR Climate Zone chart: https://smsfmastergardeners.ucanr.edu/files/259005.pdf
Note the number of days from transplanting the seedling to the first mature fruit (Days to Maturity--DTM). During this critical period, tomato plants will need at least 6 hours of full sun a day. Warm temperatures at night are also important so monitor air and soil temperatures. If it's not above 55 degrees, you will need to wait until mid-May before transplanting your seedlings. This means that the growing time for Zone C is going to be shorter so fewer days to maturity means that you will still have time for tomatoes to ripen.
Also good to know: planting too early increases the odds that your plants will succumb to disease. Also: be aware of wind patterns in your growing area and provide protection if necessary.
When you are ready to plant, dig 3-4 inches of compost into well-drained soil in that all-important sunny location. Plant seedlings 18-36 inches apart and ensure that only the top leaves appear above the soil. Don't remove the lower leaves as you cover them with soil; both stems and leaves will develop roots. Add a 3-inch layer of mulch around the plants a few inches from each stem. Water when the soil feels dry a couple of inches from the surface and be careful not to let water splash onto the leaves. Fertilize with a balanced slowrelease or water-soluble organic fertilizer. After 6 weeks, boost the level of available nutrients by adding compost around each plant or water every two weeks with a cup or two of compost tea. Use tomato cages or stakes to ensure the plants are upright and to keep tomatoes from touching the ground.
To see a list of tomato varieties with information on zones, disease resistance, Days to Maturity, growth habit and flavor characteristics, go here: https://smsf-mastergardeners.ucanr.eduand click on “Tomatoes” under
“Spring Edibles Plant Library.” These varieties will be offered at the annual UC Master Gardeners Spring Garden Market on April 9, 2022 from 9 am to 1pm at the San Mateo Event Center, Redwood Hall. All tomatoes, veggies, and succulents are grown by the UCCE Master Gardeners of San Mateo and San Francisco Counties. If you can't make the sale, the list below will assist coastal growers when selecting seeds or seedlings at your local nursery. Happy spring planting!
Classic Varieties
|
Cultivar |
Description |
Color |
Growth Period |
DTM |
|
Bush Early Girl |
Flavor: Balanced—More disease resistant that its big sister “Early Girl.” This variety has larger fruit and is more productive. |
Red |
Determinate |
54 |
|
Carmello |
Flavor: Full, mild—Among the most productive tomatoes ever bred with exceptional flavor. Produces heavy clusters of fruit, even in cooler weather, and is also very disease resistant. |
Red |
Indeterminate |
70 |
|
Defiant |
Flavor: Full, bright—High-yielding, medium-sized plants are widely adaptable. This mid-size slicer has high resistance to late blight and intermediate resistance to early blight. |
Red |
Determinate |
65 |
|
Early Wonder |
Flavor: Sweet, well-balanced—This extra-early-maturing, compact variety makes an impressive crop of round, dark pin tomatoes. Good for containers. |
Dark Pink |
Determinate |
55 |
|
Polbig |
Flavor: Sweet, mild—First early determinate for cool climates. High yields of very good tasting, meaty, glove shaped fruit. |
Red |
Determinate |
60 |
|
Stupice |
Flavor: Rich—Czech origin, with potato-type leaf, very early, cold tolerant, highly productive, very flavorful fruit. |
Red |
Indeterminate |
52 |
|
Taxi |
Flavor: Sweet, zesty—The best tomato variety for an early, lemon-yellow tomato with meaty, uniformly-round, delicious fruit.
|
Yellow |
Determinate |
68 |
Cherry Varieties
|
Cultivar |
Description |
Color |
Growth Period |
DTM |
|
Artemis |
Flavor: Rich, sweet—Vigorous vines are disease resistant and robust, producing lot of trusses with 15-20 crisp fruits. |
Red |
Indeterminate |
65 |
|
Black Cherry |
Flavor: Rich—High yielding, early producing, delicious variety |
Reddish Brown |
Indeterminate |
65 |
|
Blush |
Flavor: Complex, bright—An elongated, plum, bullet-shaped cherry that is large enough to slice, yet still small enough for snacking out of hand.
|
Golden with Red Streaks |
Indeterminate |
70 |
|
Chocolate Sprinkles |
Flavor: Sweet—Elongated, bit-sized tomatoes with striking, forest green streaks over deep coppery-red. Very sweet and crack resistant.
|
Red with Green Stripes |
Indeterminate |
70 |
|
Gardener's Delight |
Flavor: Sugar, sweet—Crack-resistant red fruits arranged in clusters of 6 to 12. Rates high with gardeners for its big yields of sugar sweet tomatoes.
|
Red |
Indeterminate |
65 |
|
Juliet Hybrid |
Flavor: Sweet—Elongated, crack-resistant cherry tomatoes grow in grape-like clusters and really load up on vigorous vines.
|
Red Glossy |
Indeterminate |
60 |
|
Mountain Magic |
Flavor: Bold acidity and sweet--A cross between a large-fruited tomato and a very sweet grape tomato. Abundant long clusters of tomatoes are crack-resistant, so they hold up very well after harvest.
|
Deep Red |
Indeterminate |
72 |
|
Pink Bumble Bee |
Flavor: Sweet, rich—Vigorous and attractive plants with dramatic coloring; tolerates tough conditions. |
Pink with Yellow Streaks |
Indeterminate |
70 |
|
Purple Bumble Bee |
Flavor: Sweet, rich—Vigorous and attractive plants with dramatic coloring; tolerates tough conditions. |
Red, Purple, Green Stripes |
Indeterminate |
70 |
|
Sun Gold |
Flavor: Extra sweet with intense fruity flavor--A favorite with children, very popular. |
Bright tangerine orange |
Indeterminate |
57 |
|
Sunrise Bumble Bee |
Flavor: Sweet, tangy—Vigorous and attractive plants with dramatic coloring; tolerates tough conditions. |
Orange with Yellow and Red Streaks |
Indeterminate |
70 |
|
Sweet Million |
Flavor: Sweet, classic—Very disease resistant plant; produces loads of fruit in grape-like clusters
|
Red |
Indeterminate |
65 |
|
Washington Cherry |
Developed by Washington State University for cooler growing regions. Compact, prolific, regular-leaf tomato plants that yield huge amounts. |
Red |
Determinate |
60 |
Beefsteak Varieties
|
Cultivar |
Description |
Color |
Growth Period |
DTM |
|
Big Beef |
Flavor: Sweet, balanced acidity--Large, juicy, early, flavorful beefsteak variety that will even ripen in cooler areas. |
Red |
Indeterminate |
70 |
|
Pruden's Purple |
Flavor: Rich, sweet—Medium-tall, potato-leaf plants produce large, smooth, crack resistant fruits. |
Dark Pink |
Indeterminate |
67 |
|
San Francisco Sunrise |
Flavor: Classic flavor with fruity notes—A must-try, fog-friendly beefsteak! Developed by UC Master Gardener in SF, Bruce Neal Goren. Performs very well in the Bay Area's fog zones, multi-lobed with uniquely attractive coloration, produces large tasty fruit in the long cool growing season of Sunset Zone 17—Pacific Coastal. |
Orange and Red Stripes |
Indeterminate |
90 |
Cynthia Nations is a UCCE Master Gardener who grows many of these tomato varieties on the coast. This article was edited by Maggie Mah, UCCE Master Gardener who can't wait to plant her tomatoes.
