- Author: Cynthia Nations
- Author: Maggie Mah
- Editor: Maggie Mah
Like many things in life, the best results are achieved by working together. This is especially true with plants!
Although you may have heard about plants that are thought to aid in insect control, disease prevention or the benefits of pairing particular plants in certain areas, the latest research on “companion planting” goes far beyond random recommendations or traditional lore. The latest research reveals the need to look at our gardens in a more holistic way: as ecosystems where plants interact with each other to create a healthy, bio-diverse place. Key to understanding this concept is that plants actively affect each other. They do this through fungal associations, chemical messaging and allelopathy, which is the ability of one plant's chemistry to affect the growth and development of another. They also share resources, attract pest predators, and improve each other's nutrient availability and absorption.
When we plant one type of plant in an area, whether it's tomatoes or other vegetables, we create what is known as a “monoculture.” Although it makes large scale farming possible, monoculture leads to increased reliance on pesticides and chemical fertilizers. However, when we choose different plants to grow together, we create a “polyculture,” which leads to biodiversity. Why is this important? Biodiversity means a more stable environment for veggies and other plants to thrive by enhancing nutrient cycling, water conservation, fewer pests and ultimately, more carbon sequestration.
What is modern research-based companion planting? Scientists prefer terms like inter-cropping or inter-planting to describe creating a polyculture to achieve desired benefits in the garden. Using a scientific approach helps us to understand the why and how of successful planting combinations.
Jessica Walliser, author of “Plant Partners: Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden,” provides plant partnerships that have undergone scientific scrutiny and shares plant pairings that help to reduce pests, minimize disease, support pollination and improve soil fertility. Walliser's findings are the basis of this article.
Using science as your guide, gardening with companion plants will help you learn about your own unique corner of the world. Have fun as you experiment with plant combinations and create a bio-diverse habitat outside your door. You'll look at your garden in a whole new way as you observe the changes in color and texture--all the while appreciating the overall health in your garden.
Cynthia Nations is a UC Master Gardener who is currently learning and employing companion partnerships in her garden in El Granada. The article was co-authored and edited by Maggie Mah, a UC Master Gardener, who is trying to catch up with Cynthia Nations.
- Author: Stu Dalton
- Editor: Cynthia Nations
- Editor: Maggie Mah
Growing roses on the coast can be more of a challenge than in other parts of the Bay Area. Wind, higher humidity, cloudy weather, and salty air can thwart the gardener's quest for lovely blooms. However, conditions in coastal communities are highly variable—a rose that does well in one neighbor's yard might not thrive next door. But if you love roses and want to grow them in your coastal garden, here's what you need to know:
Some varieties are more likely to succeed:
Rose varieties that produce flowers with lots of petals are prone to rot if temperatures are too cool. If you are determined to have these big, “cabbage-y” blossoms, find a warm, sheltered area with lots of sun. If your location receives a lot of wind, “standard” or tree roses will need shelter and sturdy stakes to avoid being rocked or knocked down by the wind. Higher humidity means higher likelihood of fungal diseases such as rust and black spot so look for varieties that are disease resistant. The good news is that some roses are very tolerant of wind, salty air and poorer soils and actually thrive in harsher environments. Among these hardier types are “Rugosa” varieties, which are very similar to wild roses.
Pruning: it's not just for winter
There's nothing quite as lovely as the first exuberant flowering of our favorite rose bushes. This is what rose aficionados refer to as the first “flush.” Subsequent blooms of rose varieties that bloom multiple times are often smaller and/or less profuse so making some judicious mid-season cuts can help. Start by“deadheading” the spent blossoms by pruning the stems back to 1/4 inch above an outward facing five leaf set. Also prune out inward facing shoots to allow more air and light to reach the center. This will reduce the chances of fungal disease. Cut out any dead, diseased, or crossing canes. Note: make clean cuts, and disinfect your pruning shears before moving to the next bush to prevent spreading disease.
Roses that bloom once in a season require different treatment. These roses bloom on last year's wood so to have lots of blossoms in spring, do not prune them in winter. After they are done blooming, just shape the plant to fit your space and cut out any dead or diseased material.
Feed them well:
Roses are heavy feeders so start fertilizing after the last frost and as soon as growth starts to accelerate, usually around March. A good rule of thumb is to fertilize after each bloom cycle, gradually reducing the amount by half each time. Stop fertilizing 6-8 weeks before the start of the coldest nighttime temperatures to avoid new growth that would be susceptible to damage. Use a good “balanced” organic rose or flower fertilizer. “Balanced” means that the “NPK” numbers on the label are equivalent. “N” means nitrogen for growth above the ground or “Up.” “P” means phosphorous for root growth below ground and “K” stands for potassium, which is necessary for all around vigor. An easy way to remember is this time-tested expression, “Up, Down and All Around.”
Roses need small amounts of micronutrients so check the label to see if the fertilizer includes them. If you choose a time-release fertilizer with micronutrients, work them well into the soil near the root zone. Since they work slowly, they are less likely to burn than other concentrated forms of fertilizer and can therefore be closer to tender roots where nutrients can be utilized sooner.
Feed the soil, too, by adding plenty of organic materials such as compost and well-aged manure to your rose bed. Other great sources of organic material include alfalfa, cottonseed meal, fish emulsion or meal. Alfalfa is a balanced fertilizer that contains triacontanol, a growth stimulant. A convenient and economical source for alfalfa pellets is your local feed store. Check the label for pure alfalfa and avoid any kinds with molasses. You can also add beneficial fungus and bacteria (mycorrhizal plus “endo” and “ecto” bacteria). These provide a great boost to the nutrient absorbing power of the roots.
Water wisely:
Roses prefer deep, infrequent watering over light, daily watering. Deep watering promotes deeper, stronger roots and uses less water overall. If you use drip irrigation, make sure there are enough emitters to cover the root zone to the drip line.
Mulch is a must:
Mulch cools the ground, reduces water evaporation and makes for more fertile soil.
Apply at least 2 to 3 inches of mulch, keeping it about 6 inches away from the base of the rose. Replenish when it starts to break down. You can buy mulch from nurseries and home supply stores and many arborists are happy to supply you with wood chips for free.
Stu Dalton is a UC Master Gardener whose family has farmed in California since the 1850s. He is the former president of the Peninsula Rose Society. The article was edited by UC Master Gardeners Maggie Mah and Cynthia Nations.
- Author: Cynthia Nations
- Editor: Maggie Mah
Glorious, homegrown tomatoes are the rock stars of the summer garden. But since tomato plants usually need lots of sun and heat, what's a coastal gardener to do? Good news: there are tomato varieties that do well in areas that are cooler and where the summer sun is often obscured by marine layers or fog. Follow the growing tips below for a successful tomato season.
Seek out varieties that have been developed and tested to do well in microclimates that receive a lot of “coastal influence;” i.e., foggy and windy with typical daytime temperatures in the 60's and low 70's. These areas are classified as Zone C on the UCANR Climate Zone chart: https://smsfmastergardeners.ucanr.edu/files/259005.pdf
Note the number of days from transplanting the seedling to the first mature fruit (Days to Maturity--DTM). During this critical period, tomato plants will need at least 6 hours of full sun a day. Warm temperatures at night are also important so monitor air and soil temperatures. If it's not above 55 degrees, you will need to wait until mid-May before transplanting your seedlings. This means that the growing time for Zone C is going to be shorter so fewer days to maturity means that you will still have time for tomatoes to ripen.
Also good to know: planting too early increases the odds that your plants will succumb to disease. Also: be aware of wind patterns in your growing area and provide protection if necessary.
When you are ready to plant, dig 3-4 inches of compost into well-drained soil in that all-important sunny location. Plant seedlings 18-36 inches apart and ensure that only the top leaves appear above the soil. Don't remove the lower leaves as you cover them with soil; both stems and leaves will develop roots. Add a 3-inch layer of mulch around the plants a few inches from each stem. Water when the soil feels dry a couple of inches from the surface and be careful not to let water splash onto the leaves. Fertilize with a balanced slowrelease or water-soluble organic fertilizer. After 6 weeks, boost the level of available nutrients by adding compost around each plant or water every two weeks with a cup or two of compost tea. Use tomato cages or stakes to ensure the plants are upright and to keep tomatoes from touching the ground.
To see a list of tomato varieties with information on zones, disease resistance, Days to Maturity, growth habit and flavor characteristics, go here: https://smsf-mastergardeners.ucanr.eduand click on “Tomatoes” under
“Spring Edibles Plant Library.” These varieties will be offered at the annual UC Master Gardeners Spring Garden Market on April 9, 2022 from 9 am to 1pm at the San Mateo Event Center, Redwood Hall. All tomatoes, veggies, and succulents are grown by the UCCE Master Gardeners of San Mateo and San Francisco Counties. If you can't make the sale, the list below will assist coastal growers when selecting seeds or seedlings at your local nursery. Happy spring planting!
Classic Varieties
Cultivar |
Description |
Color |
Growth Period |
DTM |
Bush Early Girl |
Flavor: Balanced—More disease resistant that its big sister “Early Girl.” This variety has larger fruit and is more productive. |
Red |
Determinate |
54 |
Carmello |
Flavor: Full, mild—Among the most productive tomatoes ever bred with exceptional flavor. Produces heavy clusters of fruit, even in cooler weather, and is also very disease resistant. |
Red |
Indeterminate |
70 |
Defiant |
Flavor: Full, bright—High-yielding, medium-sized plants are widely adaptable. This mid-size slicer has high resistance to late blight and intermediate resistance to early blight. |
Red |
Determinate |
65 |
Early Wonder |
Flavor: Sweet, well-balanced—This extra-early-maturing, compact variety makes an impressive crop of round, dark pin tomatoes. Good for containers. |
Dark Pink |
Determinate |
55 |
Polbig |
Flavor: Sweet, mild—First early determinate for cool climates. High yields of very good tasting, meaty, glove shaped fruit. |
Red |
Determinate |
60 |
Stupice |
Flavor: Rich—Czech origin, with potato-type leaf, very early, cold tolerant, highly productive, very flavorful fruit. |
Red |
Indeterminate |
52 |
Taxi |
Flavor: Sweet, zesty—The best tomato variety for an early, lemon-yellow tomato with meaty, uniformly-round, delicious fruit.
|
Yellow |
Determinate |
68 |
Cherry Varieties
Cultivar |
Description |
Color |
Growth Period |
DTM |
Artemis |
Flavor: Rich, sweet—Vigorous vines are disease resistant and robust, producing lot of trusses with 15-20 crisp fruits. |
Red |
Indeterminate |
65 |
Black Cherry |
Flavor: Rich—High yielding, early producing, delicious variety |
Reddish Brown |
Indeterminate |
65 |
Blush |
Flavor: Complex, bright—An elongated, plum, bullet-shaped cherry that is large enough to slice, yet still small enough for snacking out of hand.
|
Golden with Red Streaks |
Indeterminate |
70 |
Chocolate Sprinkles |
Flavor: Sweet—Elongated, bit-sized tomatoes with striking, forest green streaks over deep coppery-red. Very sweet and crack resistant.
|
Red with Green Stripes |
Indeterminate |
70 |
Gardener's Delight |
Flavor: Sugar, sweet—Crack-resistant red fruits arranged in clusters of 6 to 12. Rates high with gardeners for its big yields of sugar sweet tomatoes.
|
Red |
Indeterminate |
65 |
Juliet Hybrid |
Flavor: Sweet—Elongated, crack-resistant cherry tomatoes grow in grape-like clusters and really load up on vigorous vines.
|
Red Glossy |
Indeterminate |
60 |
Mountain Magic |
Flavor: Bold acidity and sweet--A cross between a large-fruited tomato and a very sweet grape tomato. Abundant long clusters of tomatoes are crack-resistant, so they hold up very well after harvest.
|
Deep Red |
Indeterminate |
72 |
Pink Bumble Bee |
Flavor: Sweet, rich—Vigorous and attractive plants with dramatic coloring; tolerates tough conditions. |
Pink with Yellow Streaks |
Indeterminate |
70 |
Purple Bumble Bee |
Flavor: Sweet, rich—Vigorous and attractive plants with dramatic coloring; tolerates tough conditions. |
Red, Purple, Green Stripes |
Indeterminate |
70 |
Sun Gold |
Flavor: Extra sweet with intense fruity flavor--A favorite with children, very popular. |
Bright tangerine orange |
Indeterminate |
57 |
Sunrise Bumble Bee |
Flavor: Sweet, tangy—Vigorous and attractive plants with dramatic coloring; tolerates tough conditions. |
Orange with Yellow and Red Streaks |
Indeterminate |
70 |
Sweet Million |
Flavor: Sweet, classic—Very disease resistant plant; produces loads of fruit in grape-like clusters
|
Red |
Indeterminate |
65 |
Washington Cherry |
Developed by Washington State University for cooler growing regions. Compact, prolific, regular-leaf tomato plants that yield huge amounts. |
Red |
Determinate |
60 |
Beefsteak Varieties
Cultivar |
Description |
Color |
Growth Period |
DTM |
Big Beef |
Flavor: Sweet, balanced acidity--Large, juicy, early, flavorful beefsteak variety that will even ripen in cooler areas. |
Red |
Indeterminate |
70 |
Pruden's Purple |
Flavor: Rich, sweet—Medium-tall, potato-leaf plants produce large, smooth, crack resistant fruits. |
Dark Pink |
Indeterminate |
67 |
San Francisco Sunrise |
Flavor: Classic flavor with fruity notes—A must-try, fog-friendly beefsteak! Developed by UC Master Gardener in SF, Bruce Neal Goren. Performs very well in the Bay Area's fog zones, multi-lobed with uniquely attractive coloration, produces large tasty fruit in the long cool growing season of Sunset Zone 17—Pacific Coastal. |
Orange and Red Stripes |
Indeterminate |
90 |
Cynthia Nations is a UCCE Master Gardener who grows many of these tomato varieties on the coast. This article was edited by Maggie Mah, UCCE Master Gardener who can't wait to plant her tomatoes.
- Author: Maggie Mah
- Editor: Cynthia Nations
Spring along the Northern California Coast can be unpredictable. Without summer's marine layer, it can be warm and sunny during the day and very chilly once the sun goes down. It can be rainy and wet or bone dry. Or all the above! It's good to be prepared for just about anything and focus on getting ready for the months ahead when the weather pattern settles down. Here are things to do right now that will serve you well in the months ahead.
Weeding: It's Good for the Soul
Pull those weeds now while the ground is still moist (it's so much easier!) and before pesky plants can scatter their seeds for next year. Although it might seem like drudgery, try thinking of this simple repetitive act as a very constructive form of meditation! Once the unwanted vegetation is gone, put down a new layer of mulch around (not on!) plants you want to maintain. The mulch will suppress weeds, conserve moisture, and gradually add nutrients to the soil.
Feed Almost Everything.
Many landscape plants can use a good feeding now--everything except California natives! Manzanitas, ceanothus and other native plants, which are so glorious this time of year, will soon start to slow down in preparation for the dry summer months ahead when the plants require fewer nutrients. However, roses and other summer bloomers are getting ready for show time so the time to start feeding is now. Choose good organic fertilizer with balanced nutrients for each type of plant. Roses love alfalfa, which supplies them with nitrogen and other essential nutrients. An inexpensive way to add alfalfa is in the form of pellets designed for horse and rabbit feed. Check your local feed store for alfalfa pellets without added sugar or molasses.
Getting in shape
The best time to prune camellias and rhododendrons is after they have finished blooming, usually early to mid-March. Trimming and tidying now gives the plants time to produce new growth before the next bloom cycle. After they have flowered, give them a boost of nitrogen with diluted fish emulsion and an application of organic azalea/camellia/gardenia food. It's also the best time to shop for new camellias, rhododendrons, and azaleas.
Let it be
Resist the temptation to remove the foliage from spent winter and early spring blooming bulbs such as paper whites and daffodils. It might look messy, but those yellowing leaves are supplying the bulbs with food through photosynthesis and re-charging them for next year. After flowering, let the stems wither (braid them if you must!) and know that patience will be rewarded with even better bulbs next year.
Make your Beds
It's still too early to plant tomatoes and other summer vegetables outside, but it's a great time to prepare the soil. Add 3 to 4 inches of organic compost to your garden beds and dig it in well. You can also add worm castings and a good, all-purpose organic fertilizer for extra nutrients. Do this now to allow micro-organisms in the soil to get established for transplanting seedlings in mid-April.
Plan now for summer color:
Plant summer blooming bulbs like gladiolas and dahlias now for a surprise of color later. Also add annuals like cosmos, marigolds, zinnias, and sunflowers to attract beneficial insects. Tip for fall: when these plants are done blooming, don't pull them up, cut them off at ground level and let the roots gently decompose and enrich the soil over the winter.
Test the water:
The time to check your irrigation system is now—before warmer weather descends in earnest. Check for leaks, malfunctioning or damaged emitters and sprinklers as well as any tubing that might have become dislodged. Remove sprinkler heads and other fittings from upright pipes and allow water to flow for a second or two to flush out dirt, debris and the occasional earwig.
Mark Your Calendar:
April 9th, 2022 for the San Mateo-San Francisco Master Gardener Spring Garden Market and Educational Fair at the San Mateo County Event Center in San Mateo.
This article was written by UC Master Gardener, Maggie Mah and edited by UC Master Gardener, Cynthia Nations.
1march2022 spring garden housekeeping mah
- Author: Maggie Mah
- Contributor: Cynthia Nations
- Contributor: Lisa Erdos
- Contributor: Stephanie Erskine
The Bad News: “Fire Season” is now year-round in California. More Bad News: wildfires are no longer confined to areas with overgrown forests: homes in suburbia are increasingly vulnerable to devastation. The Good News: there are things you can do to improve the odds of your home surviving a wildfire. But please don't wait until the arrow on the “Fire Danger Today” indicator moves to yellow. Act now.
Here's how:
Create “defensible spaces” around your home. “Defensible space” is a term used by firefighters and means that key areas around your house have been designed and maintained to reduce the risk of fire so that firefighters will have the best chance of defending your home. Picture your house at the center of three concentric rings. Each ring is a “zone” of defensible space.
Zone #1: This area extends from the house outward to a distance of five feet.
Because most homes are destroyed when embers ignite flammable items on or near the structure, this area should be kept free of anything combustible. Check the roof, gutters, nooks and crannies around the house and under decks for dry leaves and pine needles. Relocate your woodpile away from your house, stow brooms and flammable lawn furniture somewhere safe and replace natural fiber doormats with non-flammable alternatives.
All plants—even green ones—are flammable so relocate any shrubs next to your house to suitable areas farther away. Replace wood and other flammable mulches with decorative rocks and crushed stone. Plants in this area, if any, should be widely spaced, low-growing, non-woody and herbaceous.
Zone #2: is the next circle, between 5 and 30 feet from the home.
Key words for this space are “lean, clean, and green.” “Lean” means a limited amount of vegetation with adequate spaces in between to prevent flames from climbing or “laddering.” “Clean” means the area is kept free of dead, dry plant debris. “Green” means plants in this zone receive adequate irrigation, especially during fire season. You can increase the water holding capacity of the soil by incorporating organic soil amendments before planting and by using rock mulches instead of highly combustible bark mulches.
Zone #3: is the outermost circle, the area 30 to 100 feet away from your home.
Here, the objective is to minimize fuel that would allow fire to spread inward toward structures and to inhibit flames from moving upward into the crowns of trees.
Preventive action includes removal of dead or dying trees, dead branches and piles of dry twigs and bark. Thin trees so that branches are separated by at least 10 feet. For taller trees, prune branches so the lowest are 10 feet from the ground. (Note: If your property does not extend this far, work with your neighbors to come up with a plan for mutual safety.)
Which plants to plant?
No plants are “fire proof” but there are plants that are fire-resistant. These types of plants store water in their leaves and stems and when subjected to fire conditions, can reduce the intensity with which a fire spreads by acting as “heat sinks.” Look for higher moisture plants with low levels of flammable oils and resins, an open branching habit and a relatively low volume of total vegetation. They are typically slow-growing, tidy and do well with limited watering.
Many plants native to California meet fire resistant criteria. Since they have evolved in our local environment and tend to be slower growing, they produce less flammable material, are usually low maintenance and require less water. Here are a few examples:
- Annuals: Red Maids (Calandrinia mensiesii), Mariposa Lily (Calachortus venustus), and Tidy Tips (Layla platygloss)
- Evergreen Shrubs: Bush Poppy (Dendromicon rigida), Lemonade Berry (Rhus integrifolia), Coffeeberry (Frangula californica), and California Lilac (Ceanothus-many forms)
- Deciduous Shrubs: Flowering Currant (Ribes sanguineum var. glutinosum), Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus), Mock Orange (Philadelphus lewisii)
- Perennials: Douglas Iris (Iris douglasiana), Common Yarrow (Achillea millefolium), California Buttercup (Ranunculus californica), California Fuschia (Epilobium canum), Foothill Penstemon (Penstemon heterophyllus)
- Large Shrubs and Trees: Coast Live Oak (Quercus agrifolia), Mountain Mahogany (Cercocarpus betuloides), Western Redbud (Cercis occidentalis), Western Sycamore (Platanus racemose)
For more on choosing fire-resistant plants, check the UC Cooperative Extension website.
For more on fires, defensible space and preparedness, check out these websites:
- What's Behind California's Surge of Large Fires?
- Fire in California: Defensible Space
- Wildfires: Protecting Our Homes-and Our Forests
"Firewise landscaping: Make your home safer now" was written by Maggie Mah, UC Master Gardener of San Mateo and San Francisco Counties, and published in the San Mateo Daily Journal on February 14, 2022.