Pillars of the Idea: “Firescaping” is defined as designing your landscape in a strategic way to reduce the impact that a fire could have on your property. There are two key elements. The first is to minimize the amount of flammable vegetation that could “feed” a fire and the second is to interrupt the “path” of an approaching fire to slow its progress and ultimately prevent it from reaching a house or other structure.

Defending Your Space: According to studies by the National Fire Protection Association and others, most homes are not destroyed by a wall of flame but by wind-blown embers which ignite flammable materials on or near the structure. Many of the homes that survive in fire-devastated areas are those that are surrounded by 30 feet of defensible space. The good news: it's easy to see how keeping the area surrounding your home as fire resistant as possible can make an enormous difference.

Getting Into the Zones: Picture your house in the center of a circle with a series of concentric rings radiating outward. These represents the “zones” that will guide the type, placement/location and amount of maintenance and irrigation needed for creating an effective “firescape.”

Think of the first 5 feet around a house or other structure as a kind of “thin red line” when it comes to fire because preventing fire from reaching this area is crucial. It should be kept free of anything combustible, including plants. Unfortunately: “foundation plantings,” those familiar shrubs and planter boxes immediately next to the house, are highly problematic in a fire situation and need to go. (If you must have a plant right next to your house, make it a succulent in a ceramic pot that can be easily moved.) In addition to being flammable, tools, furniture, toys and pretty much “stuff” of any kind creates nooks and crannies for dry leaves to collect. In short: neatness really does count!

Next is the area between 5 and 30 feet away from your house or other structure. The terms often used to describe this area are “lean, clean and green.” In choosing plants for this area, limit the number of plants overall and make fire-resistant varieties the top priority. If properly maintained, these types of plants can trap and help to extinguish flying embers. When it comes to design, think in terms of clusters or groupings of plants with space in between. This type of arrangement makes it harder for flames to spread and climb. These areas should also be kept free of dry, dead debris. When you plant, incorporate plenty of organic soil amendments to increase the water-holding capacity of the soil and use inflammable rock mulches to hold in moisture. If flammable mulches such as “arbor” chippings are used, keep them on the perimeter and away from low lying branches and remove any large twigs or pieces of bark. Even fire-resistant plants can become problematic if not properly maintained so it is important to ensure that plants in this area get plenty of care and adequate irrigation.

30 Feet and Counting: If the perimeter of your property extends beyond 30 feet from your home, you have additional “zones.” Slope and overall terrain are complicating factors that must be considered but reducing the amount of flammable material that would allow fire to move inward toward your home and upward into taller trees is essential. This means removing all dead and dying trees, dead branches, and dried vegetation. Healthy trees should be trimmed so that lowest branches are both 10 feet from the ground and 10 feet away from other trees. Trees and shrubs that are spaced appropriately and with adequate separation from combustible materials will lower the chances of flames being able to make their way to your house.

Bottom Line: Whether or not you decide to make changes to your existing landscape, proper maintenance of the vegetation surrounding your home is a given. Anything dry, dead, or brittle should be considered kindling that even the tiniest spark could set ablaze. Also, good to know: the traditional method of shearing shrubs and hedges from the outside creates dense, flammable interiors. Diving inside on a regular basis to prune out shaggy bits, dry twigs and branches will make them less flammable. Removing any overhanging tree branches at least 10 feet away from your roof is also a must. This might require having a heart-to-heart with the folks next door and if this seems awkward, remember that minimizing the threat of fire takes a neighborhood. Ultimately, they will thank you.

For more on choosing fire-resistant plants go to:

For more on defensible space and fire-resistant landscaping go to:

https://ucanr.edu/sites/SAFELandscapes/Defensible_space_fire_safe_landscaping_and_fire_hazard_reduction/

 

The article was written by Maggie Mah who is currently the Marketing Chair for SM/SF UC Master Gardeners. The article was edited by Cynthia Nations.

Since 2016, Coastside Magazine has featured monthly articles written and edited by members of the San Mateo-San Francisco chapter of UC Master Gardeners. But what, exactly, is a “Master Gardener?” Presumably, “Master Gardeners” are really good at gardening, but what does the title really mean and where does it come from? The short answer is this: Master Gardeners are volunteers from your community who have been trained under the direction of the University of California Cooperative Extension to assist home gardens with science-based information. But there's more to it than that, so what follows is a bit of history, personal reflections from veteran UC Master Gardeners, and information about how you, too, can become a UC Master Gardener.

Roots of the Program
In 1862, Abraham Lincoln signed the Morrill Act, which granted federally owned lands to each state to use for the creation of public colleges and universities and led to the founding of the University of California in 1868. A revolutionary idea at the time, these “land grant” schools were centered around a practical curriculum of agriculture, science and engineering and made higher education widely available to people of modest means. Subsequent legislation led to the establishment of Cooperative Extension programs under the auspices of each land grant institution for the purpose of connecting farmers and growers directly with university research.

Growing with the Times

In 1972, Washington State University Cooperative Extension agents, being overwhelmed with calls from home gardeners, recruited and trained a team of volunteers to help and christened them, “UC Master Gardeners.” The University of California adopted the concept and created the UC Master Gardener program in 1980. There are now Master Gardener chapters in 52 counties across the state working under the auspices of The University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources (UCANR).

 

As agents of the University, UC Master Gardeners provide people in their communities with current research-based information on everything related to home horticulture, sustainable landscape practices, pest management and more. Education and outreach is accomplished through classes and workshops, personalized trouble-shooting via The Helpline and plant clinics, print and digital media, school and community gardens. These programs and services are offered at no charge and are largely self-funded by each chapter.

After training, First Year Master Gardeners must complete a minimum of 50 hours of volunteer service with additional requirements for continuing education in subsequent years. Many Master Gardeners amass hundreds and even thousands of hours while working on projects in their communities.

Although people decide to join for different reasons, each person enriches the program with their own culture and skills.

We asked two veteran Master Gardeners on why they joined and what they've learned.

 

For more information about becoming a SM-SF Master Gardener, four info sessions are being held for prospective applicants to our 2024 training program: https://smsf- mastergardeners.ucanr.edu/become-a-master-gardener/ . Attendance is required to receive an application and prospective applicants must register for the session of their choice.

The sophisticated cousin of the old-fashioned geranium, these lovely, fragrant plants come in a variety of colors and have velvety leaves full of fragrant oils that mimic rose petals, apples, lemons, chocolate mint, and many other flavors. Despite their talents, scented geraniums are very tolerant of a wide range of garden conditions. They grow quickly in sun and light shade, in practically all types of soil, need minimal water, are rarely bothered by insects or disease and deer won't touch them. They could be the perfect plant! Lightly crush a few leaves and add directly to lemonade and iced tea or simmer a handful in simple syrup to make a sophisticated infusion for mixed drinks.

 

This hardy Mediterranean native is a bushy plant that makes a great addition to anyone's garden. As a member of the pollinator pantheon, it is a favorite of bees and a companion plant for tomatoes, cabbage and strawberries. Borage is easily started from seed and grows quickly in sunny spots where it will self- seed year after year. Tender borage leaves have a delicate cucumber flavor but the electric blue blossoms are where the real drink action is. To turn even the plainest beverage into a showstopper, freeze the star-shaped blossoms in individual ice cubes and add them to the glass.

 

This attractive woody herb has shiny green leaves that taste and smell amazingly like lemon. Known as “Verveine” in France, the leaves are used to make a soothing herbal tea but the bright, citrusy aroma and taste lends itself to all kinds of potions including a liqueur similar to Chartreuse. It is compact, relatively slow growing and produces delicate sprays of small, pale lilac blossoms starting in mid- summer. Like most herbs, Lemon Verbena likes plenty of sun, low to moderate water and does well in containers. It is low maintenance and well-suited to mild coastal winter conditions. Lemon Verbena leaves are full of aromatic oils and retain their fragrance for many months when dried. Use the leaves straight or lightly muddled with sugar or simmer a few sprigs in a simple syrup and add to mixed drinks and spritzers.

 

These herbaceous flowers are native to South and Central America and come in a range of vibrant colors. Both the leaves and flowers are high in vitamin C and have a peppery flavor reminiscent of watercress and radishes. Nasturtiums grow rapidly in almost any kind of soil, do well in sun or shade and don't mind being neglected. Plant them in a corner of your garden or let them trail over a rock wall. They will self-seed and return year after year. Muddle a few blossoms with sugar and salt to rim a Margarita glass--easy and impressive!

Now, about that Margarita garden...

For more information and answers to questions about the plants in your garden, contact the UC SM-SF Master Gardener Helpline by sending an email to mgsmsf@ucanr.edu or calling (650) 276-7430.

Jamie Chan is a UC Master Gardener from the San Mateo-San Francisco Chapter. A San Francisco native, she is Director of Programs and Partnerships at The Gardens of Golden Gate Park and an adjunct professor at SF State University. The article was edited by SM-SF Master Gardeners Maggie Mah, and Cynthia Nations.