- Author: Maggie Mah
- Editor: Cynthia Nations
This article was originally published in Coastside Magazine on
Since 2016, Coastside Magazine has featured monthly articles written and edited by members of the San Mateo-San Francisco chapter of UC Master Gardeners. But what, exactly, is a “Master Gardener?” Presumably, “Master Gardeners” are really good at gardening, but what does the title really mean and where does it come from? The short answer is this: Master Gardeners are volunteers from your community who have been trained under the direction of the University of California Cooperative Extension to assist home gardens with science-based information. But there's more to it than that, so what follows is a bit of history, personal reflections from veteran UC Master Gardeners, and information about how you, too, can become a UC Master Gardener.
Roots of the Program
In 1862, Abraham Lincoln signed the Morrill Act, which granted federally owned lands to each state to use for the creation of public colleges and universities and led to the founding of the University of California in 1868. A revolutionary idea at the time, these “land grant” schools were centered around a practical curriculum of agriculture, science and engineering and made higher education widely available to people of modest means. Subsequent legislation led to the establishment of Cooperative Extension programs under the auspices of each land grant institution for the purpose of connecting farmers and growers directly with university research.
Making of a UC Master Gardener: What does it take?Anyone 18 years and older who is a resident of San Mateo or San Francisco Counties may apply to become a SM-SF Master Gardener. Once accepted, applicants must complete an intensive course of training on everything related to plants including Abiotic Disorders, Botany, Bugs, Composting, Pruning, Plant Taxonomy, Water Management, Weeds, Invasive Plants and more. Trainees are also required to hone their presentation and public speaking skills. Master Gardeners are volunteers from your community who have been trained under the direction of the University of California Cooperative Extension to assist home gardeners with science-based information.
After training, First Year Master Gardeners must complete a minimum of 50 hours of volunteer service with additional requirements for continuing education in subsequent years. Many Master Gardeners amass hundreds and even thousands of hours while working on projects in their communities.
Q: What is the most valuable thing you have learned about gardening that you would like to pass along to Coastside readers?
BW-S: We are a part of nature. To be healthy ourselves, we must take care of the soil beneath our feet and the air we breathe and the water we drink. What is good for us will probably be good for the earth so eliminate plastics (landscape cloth/artificial turf), pesticides, and herbicides; rejoice at bugs, birds, and butterflies in your garden. Feed them native plants so they are plentiful and will pollinate the foods that keep us healthy.”
CO'D: I've had time to form deep friendships with like-minded Master Gardeners, especially cherished during Covid when we could garden together.
CO'D: I have to confess—TOMATO. They're nutritious, and delicious. But my fascination lies in the variety of different, beautiful, tomato varieties. In 2007, I lead a Master Gardener Tomato Trial on Kelly Avenue in Half Moon Bay to see which of 27 different varieties grew well on the coast. You guessed it—Cherry and Plum tomatoes.
The article was written by Maggie Mah who is currently the marketing chair for SM/SF UC Master Gardeners. The article was edited by Cynthia Nations
- Author: Jamie M. Chan
- Editor: Maggie Mah
- Editor: Cynthia Nations
While it may not be top of mind when you sip a Margarita, nearly all of the beverages we consume come from plants. Apart from plain water and traditional dairy milk, virtually everything else--coffee, tea, cocoa, wine, beer, fruit and vegetable juices, cola, vodka, bourbon—the list goes on!—starts in a garden. In addition to the basic beverages we consume every day, the flavor, aroma, and visual excitement of unique plant ingredients has also become an essential part of the carefully crafted cocktails and other drinks we enjoy. You might be surprised to learn that some of the most interesting and flavorful edible plant ingredients are actually easy to grow and make attractive additions to an existing landscape. Down the road, you might even be inspired to go all out and create a unique, drink-themed section of your garden. For now, here is a list of unfussy, coast-friendly plants that will take your mixology skills to a new level.
Now, about that Margarita garden...
For more information and answers to questions about the plants in your garden, contact the UC SM-SF Master Gardener Helpline by sending an email to mgsmsf@ucanr.edu or calling (650) 276-7430.
Jamie Chan is a UC Master Gardener from the San Mateo-San Francisco Chapter. A San Francisco native, she is Director of Programs and Partnerships at The Gardens of Golden Gate Park and an adjunct professor at SF State University. The article was edited by SM-SF Master Gardeners Maggie Mah, and Cynthia Nations.
- Author: Cynthia Nations
- Editor: Maggie Mah
If you want to enjoy your own fresh, homegrown tomatoes this summer, April is the time to get started. Unless you are a hardcore gardener and start your own from seeds, most likely you will be buying young tomato plants (“seedlings”) from a nursery or plant sale. More about that later! Once you have your plants home, knowing what comes next is important to ensure that they remain healthy and productive later on. Here's how:
Plant properly
Provide support
Most tomatoes need some type of stake, cage or trellis to prevent fruit from touching the ground and to keep branches from bending and breaking. This is particularly true of indeterminate varieties, which continue growing throughout the season. There are many types to choose from and you may even be inspired to invent your own! Once you choose the option that works best for your situation, install it soon after your planting is complete.
Water wisely
Water your plants regularly to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. In general, tomatoes need approximately 1-2 inches of water per week. Check the soil by inserting a skewer or stick a few inches into the ground near the edge of planting hole. It should feel moist but not too wet. Signs that your tomatoes are not getting enough water include drooping stems and wilting leaves. Later, tomatoes that don't get enough water may split or fall off. A condition known as “blossom end rot” (BER), where tomatoes turn brown opposite the stem, is caused by a complex interaction of available water and the plant's ability to take up calcium.
Cynthia Nations is a UC Master Gardener coastside resident who grows many different varieties of tomatoes each summer. This article was edited by UC Master Gardener, Maggie Mah.
- Author: Bruce N. Goren
- Editor: Maggie Mah
- Editor: Cynthia Nations
The late comedian George Carlin once posed the question: "Why is there no blue food?” He speculated that the absence of “blue food” was due to the fact it was actually the secret to immortality and therefore not available to the rest of us. Fast-forward 50 years and, although George argued that blueberries were actually purple, it turns out he might have been onto something. The “blue” in blueberries comes from a group of phytochemicals called anthocyanins, powerful antioxidants which may help your body defend itself against a long list of diseases. Eating blueberries is not likely to make you immortal but there is no doubt that they are highly nutritious and, as such, are commonly touted as a “Superfood.”
In addition to being delicious, blueberries are easy to grow and make attractive additions to the home garden with profuse clusters of white or pink blossoms in early spring and colorful foliage in the fall. Since nothing is healthier or more delicious than fresh picked blueberries, here's how you can grow your very own “Superfood.”
Blueberry plants that do well in the mild winter conditions of our coastal areas include Southern Highbush, a hybrid of native Highbush and Southern Lowbush Blueberry varieties. These cultivars are also known for producing lots of sweet, flavorful berries. Other variations on Southern Highbush blueberries include Reka, O'Neal, Gulf Coast, Jubilee, Misty, Georgia Gem, and Marimba.
Unless you want to share your blueberry harvest with the local bird population, you may want to protect your harvest with bird netting. (Note: netting is a bit pesky, and it won't deter squirrels!) Install the netting just as the first green berries show a blush of violet. Once berry production slows down and your main harvest is done, you can remove the netting and allow your feathered friends to enjoy what's left of the berries. They will return the favor by removing any lurking caterpillars. After several years, you may see that your original plants have sent out rhizome shoots and multiplied the number of fruit producing stems in the garden bed.
For more information, check out these resources:
Bruce Goren is a Master Gardener who has developed his own tomato variety, San Francisco Sunrise. Bruce is also doing experimental grafting to see if fruit trees can produce sub-tropical fruits in chilly San Francisco. You can find more about Bruce's work, read his comments, and see his photography on Instagram at IG-@SFfruitGardener. This article was edited by UC SM/SF Master Gardeners Maggie Mah and Cynthia Nations.
- Author: Ali Williams
- Editor: Maggie Mah
- Editor: Cynthia Nations
enticing and the task seems simple enough: just lay it on the soil, cover with an attractive layer
of mulch and the foul demon weeds that lie in wait will wither and die in the darkness. At last,
you will be free from the tyranny of weeding! Hang on--there's more you should know about
this stuff! Although the promise of a neat, easy to maintain landscape may be hard to resist, the
reality isn't quite what it's cracked up to be, and you may end up doing more harm than good.
scale agriculture operations and to provide stability for structures such as retaining walls. Weed
Manufacturers claim that the materials are permeable, help to retain moisture, prevent weeds
from growing, and can therefore reduce the need for chemical herbicides.
Does it work? Landscape fabric does help to suppress weeds, but the effect is only temporary.
When freshly laid down, fewer weeds will appear on the surface because seeds that are already
opportunistically seek tiny holes in the fabric and utilize pinpoints of light to sprout through the
fabric-mulch layer and emerge triumphantly on the surface. You might admire their tenacity
before pulling them out but unfortunately, the tough fabric covering makes it difficult to get at
the root--a crucial aspect in the battle against weeds. Most likely, a bigger hole has also been
created in the process, making it easier for more weeds to germinate.
Is it permeable? Landscape or “weed blocking” fabric is made of tightly woven fiber, usually
polyester or plastic, both of which are derived from petroleum. There are different grades and
thicknesses, which will have correspondingly different degrees of permeability. Initially, they
are somewhat porous, allowing a certain amount of water and air to move through the fabric.
Unfortunately, permeability decreases in short order as the small holes that create porosity
gradually become clogged with dirt and debris. This is where the trouble starts.
What goes on below the surface? While not visible to the naked eye, healthy soil teems with
billions of beneficial organisms that depend on the movement of water and vital gases (oxygen,
carbon dioxide) between the atmosphere and the soil. As permeability decreases, these
components become more and more restricted. Deprived of oxygen, carbon dioxide and water,
soil microorganisms die off, leading to a downward cycle. Natural processes start to shut down
and plants start to appear less and less healthy. Once uncovered, the degraded soil may appear
cracked, compacted, and will very likely smell rotten. This is because the natural process of
decomposition has been interrupted and the healthy microbial community has died off.
Rooting for roots. Plants that are surrounded by increasingly clogged landscape material have a
hard time, too. Vegetation that is planted in good, properly irrigated soil grows deep roots in
the process of seeking out nutrients and moisture. This leads to healthy plants that are more
resilient to stress. Conversely, plants that are surrounded by a cover of landscape fabric (which
can be bone dry even after a deep, soaking rain) soon spread their roots out closer to the
surface. Eventually, roots may appear at the edge of the landscape fabric but despite a
gardener's best efforts, plants in this scenario will not do well.
Mulch: always good? Landscape fabric is often topped with a layer of organic mulch such as
wood chips. Although mulch is normally a very good thing and a top dressing of it certainly
looks more attractive than naked landscape fabric, it can't do what it does when it is in direct
contact with the native soil and becomes counterproductive. Why? Instead of the usual process
of decomposing and adding valuable organic matter to the soil, the mulch particles just break
down on top of the fabric and add more particulates to clog things up even more.
Still in the weeds? If you are determined to get the upper hand in the battle against weeds,
consider sheet mulching and other beneficial practices that will minimize time and effort and,
at the same time, help your garden to thrive.