- Author: Lauren Fordyce
- Contributor: Roger A Baldwin
In this blog article we answer some frequently asked questions about moles, voles, and gophers and their management.
How can I tell if I have moles, voles, gophers, or something else?
Moles: look for circular or volcano-shaped mounds with the plug in the middle, or a plug may not be apparent. The soil of mole mounds tends to be clumpier than gophers. Moles sometimes leave a raised ridge just beneath the soil surface while hunting for food.
Voles: look for aboveground runways that connect burrow openings. Grass usually covers the burrows. Voles can girdle trees aboveground while gophers girdle trees belowground.
Gophers: look for crescent or horse-shoe shaped mounds with a plug off to one side. Tunnels are 6-12 inches below ground.
Can gophers climb fences or into raised garden beds?
To some extent, yes. It is important to have an above-ground exclusionary device in place to keep them out of desired areas. Usually 12 inches of fencing is sufficient since they are not great climbers.
Should I use gopher baskets or underground fencing?
Gopher baskets can be used to protect individual plants. Underground fencing might be justified for valuable ornamental shrubs, landscape trees, or garden beds. Keep in mind metal wire will rust and disintegrate after several years to prevent plant roots from being strangled. Galvanized wire, and especially stainless-steel wire, will last much longer. Read more on gopher exclusion. For voles, wire fences or aluminum flashing around gardens can be effective. Learn more about vole exclusion. Installing a vertical underground barrier may provide temporary relief for moles. Read more about mole exclusion.
Should I treat the soil to remove insects or grubs to prevent moles, voles, and gophers from feeding?
Treating the soil with an insecticide would have no impact on gophers or voles because they feed on plant material, not insects. Doing so might reduce mole activity, but the effectiveness of this approach has not been proven.
What plants deter these pests?
Plants, including Euphorbia lathyrus, castor bean, Ricinus communis, and garlic have not proven through conducted research trials to be effective at protecting plantings from moles, voles, or gophers.
Are there any natural repellents that work?
Repellents containing castor oil have shown some repellency for moles in the eastern U.S., but their effectiveness against moles in CA is unknown. No other repellents have proven effective at protecting gardens or other plantings from moles, voles, or gophers. They are also not practical as you must apply them before damage occurs and some products may not be labeled for use on edible plants.
What traps are most effective?
The most effective trap is going to depend on which animal is present.
For gophers, 2-pronged pincer traps, such as the Macabee, Cinch, or Gophinator, can be used. Another popular type is the choker-style trap, such as the Gopherhawk. Learn more about gopher traps. For voles, a standard mouse trap can be effective. Learn how to place traps correctly. Harpoon, scissor-jaw, and pincer-style traps can be used for moles. Learn more about trapping moles.
Can I flood their burrow to kill them?
Flooding mole and vole burrows is ineffective at controlling them. For gophers, flooding can force them out of their burrows but you must kill them when they exit the burrow, otherwise they will return once it dries out. Since their burrows can be extensive and deep, flooding is usually just a waste of water.
What fumigants can I use?
Burrow fumigants with smoke or gas are not effective for moles, voles, or gophers.
The general public cannot use aluminum phosphide. This is a restricted use pesticide and often cannot be used in residential areas. You must have a pesticide applicator license to use it.
Pressurized exhaust machines and carbon dioxide injection devices are expensive and only practical for large infestations.
Are poison baits dangerous for nontarget wildlife and predators? How can they be used safely?
Toxic baits can harm nontarget wildlife, but since baits are placed inside burrows and the pest usually dies inside the burrow, predators and other wildlife are less likely to encounter the toxic bait and poisoned animals. Certain baits, known as first-generation anticoagulants (e.g., warfarin and chlorophacinone) generally require consumption over the course of several days to be effective–making them a potentially safer option. Always be sure to read the product label and make sure it will work against your specific pest, and be sure to understand the potential risks when using these toxicants. Note that not all products are legal for all 3 pests.
Will predatory birds, dogs, or cats control them?
Many predators including coyotes, foxes, badgers, weasels, cats, gulls, and especially hawks and owls eat voles and gophers. However, in most cases predators can't keep their populations below damaging levels. Installing barn owl boxes will likely not be enough to control these burrowing animals in urban settings either.
Do ultrasonic, sound-emitting, or vibrating devices work?
Electromagnetic or ultrasonic devices settings are ineffective against voles. Gophers and moles are not frightened by these devices.
How can you tell if a burrow or mound is active?
For moles and gophers, always look for the freshest activity as indicated by moist soil on the mound. The fresher the mound, the more likely the animal is still using the tunnel. For voles, look for fresh grass clippings and fecal pellets around burrow entrances and along runways.
How do I prevent moles, voles, and gophers from establishing?
Limit dense vegetation including weeds and heavy mulch that provide them protection. They are less common in non-vegetated areas.
How can you dispose of dead moles, voles, or gophers?
Bury them or place in a plastic bag in the trash. Never touch them with your bare hands as they can carry infectious pathogens and parasites.
To learn more about management of these pests, visit the Pest Notes fact sheets below:
Questions for this FAQ collected from the Moles, Voles, and Gophers webinar on May 16th, 2024.
For the third year the UCCE Stanislaus County Master Gardeners is presenting its popular A Lavender Experience Workshop. Participants will:
- Explore the history of lavender and its uses.
- Learn about different types of lavender and how to grow them.
- Learn to make a lavender wand* and a stem lavender basket* (NEW!).
- Snack on lavender flavored goodies like lavender lemonade, salad, and shortbread.
- Get recipes for food made from lavender and dried culinary lavender to make your own recipes.
- Take home some lavender soap and scrub made by our UC Master Gardeners. (NEW!)
- Get a lavender plant to put in your garden.
Where: location mailed to participants
When: Saturday, June 24 9:30 AM - 12:00 PM
Cost: $30
Note: 35 spaces available
Questions? (209) 525-6862
Sign up online: https://ucanr.edu/lavender/2024
Master Gardener Instructors: Heidi Aufdermaur, Doone Cockrell, Denise Godbout-Avant, Bonnie Jones-Lee, Karen Jorgensen, Connie Lundgren-Gardner, Sandy Mann, Stephanie Ranon, Janet Wickstrom
If you cannot afford to pay full price for this workshop, please contact Anne at (209) 525-6862 or aschellman@ucanr.edu for a partial scholarship (while supplies last).
*Lavender wands and baskets can be placed in clothes drawers or cabinets to release a fresh scent and may last for years. You can also keep your wand or basket near your desk and inhale its relaxing fragrance when needed. Baskets can be used to store dried flowers, potpourri, or small items.
The lavender field image is from Pixabay and was published prior to July 2017 under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication license https://web.archive.org/web/20161229043156/https://pixabay.com/en/service/terms/
/span>- Author: Jennifer DeDora
My favorite ride in Walt Disney World in Florida isn't one of the roller coasters, 3D rides or even one of the major headliners. It is Epcot's “Living with the Land”. It is one of the most inspiring and meticulously curated gardens in the world. The ride vehicle is a spacious slow moving boat that comfortably fits 10 people. The ride starts with a meander through life sized dioramas depicting many different climate zones from around the world and ends with a float between many different giant fish tanks used to demonstrate aquaculture, the farming of fish for consumption. But the best portion of the ride, in my opinion, is the middle portion where the food scientists experiment and display many new and innovative ways to grow and curate plants.
The garden is fully enclosed within a beautiful geodesic dome to allow plenty of light in while allowing for complete climate control inside. Sustainability, wise water use and space saving measures are the main focuses within the dome. A few of my favorite demonstrations are the vertical growing of normally low growing plants such as squash and melons, it's pretty amazing to see cantaloupes and watermelons growing up in the air held up in little mesh cradles! And the gravity fed, perpetual drip systems that seem to work like magic. Another fun aspect of the ride is to watch the kids and adults on the boats with you marvel at the fruits and vegetables all around them, many do not fully understand where and how the food they eat is curated or even what it looks like in the “wild”. Much of the food that is grown here can be eaten at a few of Epcot's finer restaurants, that was sure a bonus to me because i saw and experienced the love put into growing and harvesting these plants.
I hope that with all of the technology put into fancy rides and shows Epcot never loses the not so hidden gem that is “Living with the Land”. It is a not to miss attraction for any gardener and in my mind, any person, for it might just inspire anyone to become a steward of the land and maybe try out one of the exciting ways to grow food and flowers!
P.S. The plants and stands are decorated for every holiday so at certain times of the year there are a few hidden surprises.
- Author: Sherry Blunk
The 2024 MG's booth would not have been possible without a strong showing from our MG volunteers, the majority derived from our recently graduated 2024 training class! These newest Master Gardeners represent a strong, enthusiastic future for our Program. A huge thank you to the 2024 FCD MG volunteers: Charlene Clavelli (MG class of 2024), DJ Andriessen (2024), Jalena Rusaw (2024), Jamie Cannon (2024), Jill Shepherd (2009), Kathy Hill (2011) , and Sherry Blunk (2016).
- Author: Ann Edahl
There are hundreds of varieties of mint. The two most common are peppermint (Mentha piperata) and spearmint (Mentha spicata). Peppermint is used mostly for cooking, flavoring, and oils — for example, in gum, soaps and candy. Spearmint is often used fresh, such as in teas, other drinks and sauces (mint sauce, anyone?).
Other mint types that are usually easy to find include apple mint, pineapple mint and chocolate mint. And yes, chocolate mint, a type of peppermint, really does smell like a chocolate mint when you rub a leaf between your fingers!
Mint is a hardy perennial, meaning the plant comes back every year, and it can handle temperatures well below freezing. Depending on the variety, mint plants grow about one- to two-feet tall. They can grow in lots of different types of soil but prefer rich soil. Mint grows in full sun to part shade and needs moderate water. Its ability to thrive in part shade is a plus for many gardeners.
Although mint is often disease and pest free, it can be susceptible to rust and powdery mildew, two diseases caused by fungi. Some insects can also cause damage to mint, including aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, spider mites, mint caterpillar and mint root borer. See the University of California IPM (integrated pest management) mint page, linked below, for more information and tips on controlling these diseases and pests.
How do you grow mint? Mint spreads naturally by runners, by what we call “layering” — where the mint begins rooting where the horizontal stems you see growing above the soil surface touch the soil. You can also grow mint from seed, by dividing the plant and with root cuttings — mint roots in water quite easily and you might even have luck with rooting it by sticking a stem of mint directly into the soil. Which brings us to the biggest point to consider when deciding to grow mint: its tendency to spread easily and fast!
Mint is vigorous and will spread rapidly if there is no physical barrier to stop it. To help prevent mint from becoming a nuisance, the solution is to plant it in a container. The pot should be at least six inches deep, and placing a saucer or some type of paver between the pot and the ground will prevent the mint from eventually escaping through the drainage hole. You will want to give it a good watering when the soil is dry, especially during the heat of the summer. The smaller the pot, the faster the soil will dry out. But even if you wait too long and the mint wilts, chances are it will come back. It is one hearty (and hardy) herb!
Or you can grow mint in the ground but in a large pot buried in the soil. When burying the pot, do not bury it flush with the soil, but make sure to leave a one- to two-inch lip sticking out of the ground. This will help keep the mint contained. Even then, be on the watch for mint runners trying to escape over the lip since it really, really wants to spread! Also, if planting mint in a container in the ground, make sure it's a sturdy pot. Terra cotta is okay but may disintegrate over time. Five-gallon-size paint buckets are the perfect size, deep enough that the roots of the mint cannot easily escape. Be sure to add drainage holes on the bottom if you go this route.
Now that you've planted your mint, you'll soon be ready to harvest! It's best to wait to harvest after the plant has reached three to four inches. Young leaves will have the best flavor although you can harvest at any time. To conserve the flavor in the leaves, pinch off any flowers that form.
And you're set! On our next 100-degree day, go out in the morning, pick some of those mint leaves — spearmint and apple mint are two of my favorites — steep them for a few hours in a pitcher of ice water and get ready to be refreshed!
Read more:
UC IPM. Pests in Gardens and Landscapes: Mint — Mentha ssp.
UCANR Cooperative Extension–Sacramento County. Environmental Horticulture Notes: Culinary Herb Profiles. EHN 70.