VP Glenda Humiston and I have made the decision to change the 13/24-month option in ANR's academic advancement process to a new 18/30-month option. Before seeking an advancement, first-term academics usually complete at least two years for those in a two-year term cycle, or three years for those in a three-year term cycle. ANR merit and promotion guidelines have allowed an exception to this policy by allowing first-term academics to submit a merit or promotion advancement under a 13/24-month option, i.e., to seek advancement after at least 13 full months for those in a two-year term cycle, or after at least 24 full months for those in a three-year term cycle. In both options, the academic must show the equivalent of 24 (or 36) months of performance in the reduced review period.
Due to an increase in advancement requests for 13/24-month options, the number of service years for requests going down in the last five years, and several cases of first-term academics being denied due to lack of performance equivalency, we are changing the option to an 18/30-month option, respectively. Starting with the 2024/25 advancement cycle, first-term academics may seek advancement at the earliest after at least 18 full months for those in a two-year term cycle, or after at least 30 full months for those in a three-year term cycle. The change will ensure equity with previous years' advancements when fewer 13-month requests were requested and avoid the additional burden of negative outcomes (for academics, supervisors, and UC ANR at large). The change was discussed with the AAC-Personnel Committee in the annual advancement debrief and will be clarified in the eBook.
We will continue to strive for academic excellence, and I assure academics that a critical element of our merit and promotion system remains to reward outstanding achievements and performances. At the same time, we must ensure that early advancements and acceleration requests remain exceptions to the rule and do not become standard requests.
I also want to remind everyone that, as of October 2023, VP Humiston has approved an early-career CE advisor academic market-equity adjustment (for Assistant CE Advisor and Associate CE Advisor ranks). Leadership continues to review academic salaries and the advancement process to ensure salaries align with salaries in the labor market for comparable academic positions.
Brent Hales
Associate Vice President for Research and Cooperative Extension
- Author: Melissa G. Womack
A scorching summer heat wave is bringing triple digit temperatures and excessive heat alerts to much of California. The National Weather Service is predicting temperatures upwards of 105 and 115 degrees for several days in a row. Many home gardeners are wondering how they can help their plants, trees, or shrubs survive the intense summer heat.
“We are getting a lot of questions from around the state from people worried about how the extreme temperatures are going to affect the plants or trees in their yard,” says Missy Gable, director of the UC Master Gardener Program. “With a little extra planning, you can help your garden beat the heat and survive the hot summer weather.”
UC Master Gardener volunteers are available to help answer gardening questions and provide advice. Here are seven quick and easy ways to help make sure your plants and trees survive the hot summer months:
- Take care of yourself first, only garden during the cooler times of the day in the early morning or evening hours. Limit the time spent outdoors during the peak temperatures. Drink plenty of water, wear lightweight loose clothing, a brimmed hat, and work in the shade whenever possible.
- Shade your plants. Use a shade cloth, patio umbrella or other temporary structure to protect sensitive plants from the direct sun. This can reduce the heat stress on plants and prevent scorching of leaves.
- Water in the morning. Watering plants in the early morning helps to minimizes water loss due to evaporation, which is less prevalent during the cooler part of the day. This practice allows your plants to absorb water efficiently and become fully hydrated before the heat intensifies.
- Water trees deeply and less frequently. Water trees deeply and less frequently—yes, that's right, less frequently! The key is to water "deeply." Deep watering, promotes a robust network of deep roots, which helps the tree access water from deeper in the soil and become more drought-tolerant.
- Mulch, mulch, and more mulch. When temperatures get extreme, having a good layer of mulch prevents soil from heating up excessively and loosing water to evaporation. Apply 4-6 inches of a medium shred bark mulch to insulate the soil.
- Group container plants together: Placing container plants close to each other may help create a microclimate that retains moisture and reduces temperature fluctuations. Consider temporarily moving container plants to shadier areas.
- Watch for radiant heat. Pay special attention to plants located near walkways, patios, and other structures that radiate heat. These plants are often the first to show signs of heat stress and may require extra water to cope with the increased temperature.
- Don't fertilize plants or trees during hot summer months. Fertilizers aim to increase the growth of plants and trees. When a fertilizer is applied, especially one that is high in Nitrogen, a plant is triggered to produce more green growth. An increase in growth means an increase in water and nutrient needs. During hot spells, it is especially hard to keep up with plant water and nutrient needs as soils dry out quickly and water may not be readily available.
Thankfully,
we're not trying to garden on the surface of the sun. Unfortunately, sometimes it can feel like it. Stay cool, and don't forget to plan for your garden in the fall—it's the perfect excuse to stay inside with the air conditioning and an ice-cold beverage.
Ask your local UC Master Gardener Program
Have a gardening question? UC Master Gardener volunteers are available to help. Click here to Find a Program and connect with your local UC Master Gardener Program. You will be redirected to your local county website and contact information. UC Master Gardener volunteers are available to help answer questions for FREE. Happy gardening!
- Author: Jeffrey P Mitchell
CASI's Mitchell on MyAgLife podcast June 28, 2024
July 1, 2024
Jeff Mitchell, CASI member and Professor and Cropping Systems Cooperative Extension Specialist in the Department of Plant Sciences at the University of California, Davis, appeared in a 39-minute podcast with host Taylor Chalstrom on June 28, 2024 to talk about conservation agriculture in general and the recently-published article in California Agriculture on the 20-year study in Five Points, CA. The podcast is available at
https://spotifyanchor-web.app.link/e/JuQ7qakGSKb
You may need the podcast platform, Spotify, to listen to it.
/span>- Author: Heather Hamilton
I have recently noticed how amazing geraniums are. I think many people like myself have seen them, and they are pretty standard, so they probably don't appreciate all they have to offer. They continuously bloom all year in places with mild winters, don't require much water, don't really get a lot of bugs or diseases, and are just tough as nails! I had them at one place I lived, which was in a brick bed that hardly got any water and just bloomed and bloomed. They are commonly called geraniums because they resemble wild geraniums in Europe but are actually considered pelargonium, which was reclassified by Carl Linnaeus. They come in a ton of different colors and have six common varieties. The ivy geranium which offers a great plant for cascading flowers in a hanging basket. The regal is a specific variety that often comes in multicolored flowers like pink and white. The inter-specific is a cross between a zonal and ivy, with the most common one having deep red flowers and long blooming in warm climates because it is heat resistant. The scented tends to have smaller flowers but can be highly fragrant with smells such as citrus and mint. The zonal are the most common and have large flowers and even double varieties that bloom all summer. The fancy-leafed are zonal but have been bred to have colorful and boldly patterned leaves in addition to their flowers. Geraniums can be grown from seed and cuttings. They also do well as cut flowers. With a little deadheading, the plants can be kept up very nicely. With so many colors and varieties to choose from, I am really looking forward to adding some of these to my garden. So, next time you turn your nose up to this plant, you might remember all the benefits and colors it has to offer!
- Author: Lisa Nedlan UCCE Master Gardener
The effectiveness of olla irrigation lies in the interaction between soil moisture and the plant's roots. This dynamic creates a unique suction force, where the plant's roots 'pull' the water out of the olla if the soil is dry. Conversely, if the soil is wet from rainfall or surface watering, the water remains in the olla until the surrounding soil dries, ensuring a balanced and efficient watering system.
Implementing olla irrigation is not just about watering your plants; it's about fostering deep watering and dense root growth. This, in turn, enhances nutrient and water uptake, leading to healthier plants. Additionally, the controlled moisture levels prevent the extremes of wet and dry that can cause bitterness in greens and cracks in tomatoes and melons. As a bonus, the relatively dry soil surface acts as a natural deterrent to weeds and some unwanted insects, further enhancing the health of your garden.
Crops with fibrous root systems, such as tomatoes, squash, melons, and chiles, respond well to olla use. When using ollas with plants with shallow root systems, consider the shape and size of the olla and where the water will be in the soil. You can also use ollas with young perennial landscape plants (trees, vines, and shrubs.) Plants with woody roots might break an olla. If you notice that you are having to fill the pot more frequently, consider that a crack has formed in the olla.
Ollas are inefficient for densely planted annual crops due to the number of ollas necessary for even coverage.
Tips for using ollas
- Bury the olla, leaving 1 – 2 inches above the soil surface to keep dirt and mulch from getting inside. Gently pack the soil around the olla to prevent air pockets. Air pockets will prevent water from moving into the soil and keep roots from growing.
- To maximize impact, place ollas every 2 – 3 feet in the garden. Larger ollas, with a 2 or more-gallon capacity, can be placed up to 3 – 4 feet apart.
- If your soilis very deep, place a saucer or drainage tray under the olla at the bottom of the hole. This will promote water seepage outwards instead of downwards.
- Check the water level frequently and refill as necessary. Soil type, plant density, and weather can influence how often you need to refill. Refill times can vary from every seven days or more or as frequently as every other day.
- Cover the olla opening with a lid, rock, or plate to minimize evaporation and prevent mosquito breeding.
- Ollas are best suited for coarse-textured and/or sandy soil. Soil with a high clay content does not dissipate water well.
- When planting seeds, plant a few inches away from the olla opening. Water the entire planting area. If your olla isn't keeping the top 2 inches of soil moist, you may need to surface water until the seeds germinate.
- Know where your ollas are buried. Mark them with rocks, a pin flag, or something else to prevent someone from stepping on the olla.
- If you live in an area with hard freezes, dig up your olla each winter to prevent cracking underground.
Several types of ollas are available for purchase at garden shops, online, or from your local potter. There are several methods for making your own from clay or terracotta pots. Consider your space, the cost, how many ollas you will need, and how often you are willing to refill them. If you would like to make an olla from terracotta flower pots, click here.
Resources
How to use olla irrigation
https://wateruseitwisely.com/blog/olla-irrigation/
Olla Irrigation
https://images.nativeseeds.org/pdfs/Ollairrigationhandout.pdf
University of Arizona, Irrigating with Ollas
https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1911-2021.pdf