UCR wages $11+ million war against citrus greening disease
Three projects win funding to fight tree-killing bacteria
Invasive Fruit Fly Quarantine
What to know as a SJV citrus grower?
Sandipa Gautam
Area Citrus IPM Advisor
UC Statewide IPM Program Operations
Several species of invasive fruit flies that belong to the family Tephritidae are considered serious pests of hundreds of agricultural crops including citrus. These flies lay eggs on or near the fruit surface, and when the maggots hatch, they bore into the fruit, making it unfit for human consumption and causing major losses to fruits and vegetable production. California is experiencing an unusually high number of invasive fruit fly detections in the 2023/24 season and several areas in California are now under a fruit fly quarantine. For many invasive fruit fly species, quarantine is triggered when two or more adult flies are caught in a trap or by a single detection of larvae or pupae indicating a breeding population. Core area is 0.5-mile radius around the detection site and a quarantine area is 4.5-mile radius around each detection.
Counties Currently Impacted by Invasive Fruit Fly Quarantines:
Why is fruit fly quarantine concerning to citrus growers?
Citrus is a known host to all invasive fruit fly species. Fruit fly life cycle begins as eggs laid by adult female on surface or under the fruit rind maggots hatch and bore into the fruit and develop inside the fruit (Figure 5). They drop to the ground and pupate. Many fruit fly species are known to overwinter as prepupae or pupae, but some species like Medfly can overwinter in all life stages inside fruit or as pupae on the ground. Adults emerge in early spring and the life cycle continues. Because eggs and immatures can be present inside the fruit, movement of infested fruit may accidentally transport them to a new area where fruit fly has not been detected.
Invasive fruit flies – what to look for?
Four species of fruit flies are currently regulated in California. The adults may look similar to houseflies but are distinctly different in color and the markings on the body. They are about 5-8 mm in size, much bigger than spotted wing drosophila, another invasive species that has been established in California.
Figure 1. Oriental fruit fly adult with identifying characters (left) and areas in California under quarantine as of January 2024: Contra Costa, Riverside, Sacramento, San Bernardino, and Santa Clara Counties (right).
Figure 2. Mediterranean fruit fly adult with identifying characters (left) and areas in California under quarantine as of January 2024 – Los Angeles County (right).
Figure 3. Tau fruit fly adult with identifying characters (left) and areas in California under quarantine as of January 2024: Los Angeles County (right).
Figure 4. Queensland fruit fly adult with identifying characters (left) and areas in California under quarantine as of January 2024: Ventura County (right).
You can find more information about invasive fruit fly species including interactive quarantine maps, regulatory information and pest profile information below: https://www.cdfa.ca.gov/plant/PDEP/treatment/index.html
Figure 5. Fruit fly larvae are white, legless maggots. They bore into the fruit and feed on pulp. Infested fruit may drop and decay.
What is happening to prevent fruit fly spread?
The California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA), in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) and County Agricultural Commissioners, has initiated local regulatory measures to eradicate and prevent the statewide spread of Queensland fruit fly, Tau fruit fly, Mediterranean fruit fly and Oriental fruit fly. California Citrus Quality Council (CCQC) in coordination with researchers is developing a systems approach that allows for post-harvest treatment of citrus fruit for movement from the core to pack.
What can you do?
If you are a grower inside the quarantine area, follow regulations about harvesting, processing, or storing fruit. Contact your County Ag Commissioner about the latest regulations, or review FAQs here: https://www.cdfa.ca.gov/plant/fruitfly/docs/Invasive_Fruit_Fly_FAQ_Industry_1-18-24.pdf . If your property is under fruit fly quarantine, follow either pre or postharvest treatment protocols from USDA to move fresh fruit
With three new grants totaling more than $11 million, UC Riverside is helping lead the fight against citrus greening or Huanglongbing, a disease threatening citrus industries in the U.S. and worldwide.
The disease is from bacteria transmitted to citrus trees by a tiny flying insect, the Asian citrus psyllid. Infected trees produce no fruit, or fruit that is bitter, small and worthless. Despite intensive research for the past 15 years, there is no known cure for it. It has reduced citrus production in Florida by more than 75%, and it has already been detected in Texas and California.
Because California supplies the country with 80% of its fresh citrus, and because 267,000 acres of Golden State lemons, oranges, grapefruits, and mandarins are at stake if operations are permanently lost, the USDA National Institute of Food and Agriculture is making an emergency investment in citrus disease research with three projects at UCR.
These projects focus on instilling tolerance to the disease with three different approaches: below ground, in the rootstocks, above ground in the shoots and branches, and systemically, with a peptide that would move throughout the tree.
The largest of the projects, at $6.8 million, is being led by Danelle Seymour, assistant professor of genetics in the Botany and Plant Sciences Department at UCR. Their focus is on breeding Huanglongbing or HLB-resistant rootstocks, and the project depends on collaboration with Kim Bowman, a citrus breeder at the USDA Agricultural Research Service in Ft. Pierce, Florida.
“In Florida, nearly every single tree is infected. It's terrible for growers, but wonderful for breeding,” Seymour said. “We can't do this research at large scale in California because the disease isn't as widespread here.”
The classic way to improve resistance or encourage new qualities in crops is through genetics, making crosses between one plant that has a favorable trait, and one that doesn't. “We hope the result is better than the parents,” Seymour said. “When you work in wheat or tomato, you can do these crosses and perform evaluations every year. In citrus, it takes 10 - 15 years to evaluate a new generation of trees.”
Because of the long lag time, the research-ready trees in Florida represent an opportunity for Seymour's team to begin examining new crosses now. The breeder, Kim Bowman, has evaluated over 10,000 trees and unique hybrids, from which a handful will be selected for release to growers.
In addition to evaluating these select few new hybrids for their HLB tolerance, the researchers will be watching the Florida-grown trees' responses to the different environmental conditions in California. “Can they perform well in response to different salinity levels in the soil, different humidity, as well as other pests and pathogens that we have here? We'll find out,” Seymour said.
Chandrika Ramadugu, a project scientist also in UCR's Department of Botany and Plant Sciences, is leading a project to develop HLB-resistant scion varieties that can be grafted to rootstocks. A scion is an above-ground portion of a plant, such as a bud or shoot, that can be used for grafting.
For trees, grafting can be equated to an organ transplant. The scion from one tree is attached to the trunk or rootstock of another with the hope of creating a new plant with combined attributes.
With its grant of $3.28 million, this project will analyze second-generation hybrids that are bred for ten years using Australian lime as a source of disease resistance.
Ramadugu will evaluate 24 novel hybrids in California, Florida, and Texas to assess resistance to HLB. Ideally, in addition to having enhanced disease tolerance, the new plants will also be able to produce good-tasting fruit.
There is little genetic diversity in cultivated citrus. When new pathogens arrive, the genetic uniformity can result in disease epidemics and dire consequences for the crop. In addition to the potential benefits of this project for the fight against HLB, the new hybrids may also help protect citrus from other pests and pathogens.
A third project, granted $1.36 million, will utilize a peptide found in Australian finger limes that is known to impart HLB resistance. Led by Hailing Jin, Microbiology & Plant Pathology professor, the project is developing ways to infuse trees with the peptide.
“The antimicrobial peptide in the finger limes are more efficient at killing bacteria as compared to antibiotics currently used in the field, and much more stable at high temperatures,” Jin said.
Because spray applications are expensive, Jin's project aims to spread the peptide throughout the trees' insides. In collaboration with University of Florida professor Svetlana Folimonova, Jin's team utilizes a natural citrus virus with almost no symptoms to deliver the peptide into the trees.
“You infect the tree with the virus, and it will spread in areas where the bacteria reside,” Jin said. “It would move systemically through the tree, and it would be very cost efficient for growers. No need to buy more insecticides.”
These grants were enabled by the 2018 Agricultural Improvement Act, which authorized the Emergency Citrus Disease Research and Development Trust Fund to fight HLB. With these and other projects, the USDA is bringing together the nation's top scientists to find scientifically sound solutions to the problem in a financially and ecologically sustainable way.
A few observations on a rainy day when there's time to check on the winter garden.
Many varieties of citrus and other fruit trees have set a bumper crop of small fruit this season. Alternate bearing or the setting of fewer fruit every other year or two is normal for fruiting trees, but this year's bounty of mini fruit is unusual. The cause could be last season's long, cool, wet spring weather that delayed blossom set and pollination. Or it could be that the immature heavy crop of fruit should have been thinned early. The fruit is juicy and sweet. Just remember that the best way to store citrus fruit is to leave it on the tree until it falls off.
Rose leaves are still bright green and firmly attached to most bushes. Roses will set flowers all winter long if temperatures don't drop to freezing levels. In the Central Valley with its mild, short winters, rose lovers usually strip browning leaves from their bushes in mid-November to force dormancy by using water from a hose to blast off the dead and dying leaves. But you might need to hand strip green leaves from roses this winter. Do it after you've pruned to minimize the work.
Weed seeds germinate quickly when the soil temperature warms above 50 degrees. That often happens during winter warm spells like those we had during December. As you are using a wiggle hoe to cut down tiny weeds, you'll notice that it's much easier to till of the soil in areas that have been kept covered with a three- to four-inch layer of mulch. Those of us who have begun spreading the fall leaves into planting beds instead of raking them up are seeing that the leaf mulch does reduce weed germination, but because we haven't had much rain yet this winter, the dry fall leaves have barely begun to decompose. Rake or blow the leaves to turn them and encourage faster decomposition.
Container gardening is enticing. We love the option to grow plants where space and sunlight might otherwise limit our choices. Most perennials, shrubs and trees are better off planted in the ground, but, with care, we can maintain our larger woody plants in containers.
We must carefully monitor and nurture our container plants since nutrients and water are confined to what is available in the container. Woody plants such as trees and shrubs need larger containers and more care over the years since they have larger root systems than most annuals and perennials.
The periodic repotting of container plants is an important aspect of care that is often neglected. Over time, as plants mature, plants naturally produce more leaves above ground and more roots below ground. Most container plants tend to become root-bound, meaning the roots outgrow the container, and the roots overlap each other, often circling the bottom of the container and growing back up its sides. Being root-bound results in stunted growth and poor plant health. The organic portion of the potting soil slowly decomposes over time and compacts, losing pore space, air space and drainage space.
Generally, containers should be repotted every two to three years.
Signs that indicate the need for repotting:
It is important to have the right size container. You need enough space for roots, and enough room for soil for hydration, thermal insulation and fertility.
Selection of container, usually you need half wine barrel size to accommodate a larger plant like a tree or a shrub. TIP: Having a plant caddy with quality wheels that turn easily can make the job of moving the barrel and the plant ball much easier. There are plant caddies that are built to deal with the weight of a fully loaded half barrel filled with potting soil and a tree or shrub. Plant caddies are also helpful to monitor drainage.
Make sure that there are adequate drainage holes in the bottom of the container. No need to add rocks or gravel as they can interfere with proper drainage and take valuable depth from soil. To stop soil from leaking out, a mesh screen works well. Avoid sealing the hole.
Plan to elevate the wine barrel to provide air space so that wood will have a chance to dry out underneath.
Plants in containers do not do well using ordinary garden soil, especially clay soil; they need a more porous soil mixture to thrive.
If you are buying potting soil, remember you get what you pay for. Consider getting potting soil from your local nursery. Another way to get quality potting is to mix your own. Here are links to some recipes: Soil Mixes for Container Gardening by UC Master Gardeners of Napa County
It is good practice to refresh containers with additional new potting soil or to replace all the potting soil with new potting soil. Prepare the potting soil that you are planning to use. If you are using old and new potting soil, mix the two. If you add compost, mix well with the potting soil. Never exceed 1/3 of the mix when adding compost.
Mix in some slow-release 16-16-16 fertilizer. The slow release is recommended since plants in containers need to be watered more frequently than those in the ground, and nutrients are lost as the water drains out of the container.
During the growing season, apply a water-soluble fertilizer every 2 to 3 weeks, supplementing the slow-release fertilizer.
Whatever fertilizer you use, be sure to follow the directions on the label.
Remove the plant from the pot. Resist the temptation to pull by the top of the plant or its trunk. Loosen soil around the edges. Lift from the bottom because roots can be easily damaged.
Break down sides of a worn-out wooden barrel by tapping on metal rings and they should just drop down allowing you to take out the wooden slats, exposing the root ball.
Remove any diseased or damaged roots. When the plant is out of the container, gently separate the roots.
If the plant is root-bound, slice off outer 1/2 inch of roots including soil and root mats. Trim circling roots and any roots growing upward. Make sure not to remove more than 1/3 of the roots.
Begin filling the container with potting soil. Build a mound in the center. Roots should be placed around the outer edge in a lateral, radial, slightly downward manner.
Place the plant on top of the soil mound, arranging roots away from the stem. Try to help roots avoid circling and being tangled with one another. Spread the roots apart as much as you can.
Identify the plant's root crown. The crown is located where the first lateral roots start to appear. Estimate the location of the crown when it is planted in the container so it is at or slightly above the soil level. Positioning the root crown is especially important for trees since below soil level placement may lead to crown rot diseases. Crown Rot in the Garden - UCANR Pest Note
Be sure to keep track of the crown and keep it above the soil level as you are adding potting soil. Avoid packing the soil down. You can gently pat the soil just enough to remove big air pockets
Check by feeling the soil to make sure that the root ball is moist. When the root ball has dried out, it may be difficult to re-wet the root ball. A very thorough soaking may be necessary more than once. When you are finished, you can add some mulch.
Check the top 2-3 inches of potting mix in the container for moisture over the next few days since it may be drier than you anticipate. You may need to add some additional potting soil once the soil has settled more.
When it is dry, the plant needs water. Plants need more frequent watering when in smaller containers, higher temperatures, higher wind, and direct sun. Mature plants are more likely to need frequent, perhaps daily, watering in warm or hot weather., especially if located near heat-retaining hardscapes such as concrete, rocks, bricks, pavers, or stone.
Sometimes we realize that our plants are not thriving in their containers, no matter what we have done, and we need to plant them in the ground. Follow the same steps of separating the roots, and cutting and removing the roots mats that are at the bottom of the container. The holes should be wider than the root ball so that the roots can radiate out. Large rooted plants should be arranged so the roots are not tangled or only on one side. Remember, however the roots are placed, that is how they stay and grow. Repotting or transplanting plants in-ground often results in happier, healthier plants.
Container Planting by Oregon State Master Gardeners Clackamas County (PDF)
Outdoor Container Flower Gardening by UC Master Gardeners of San Joaquin
Planting Landscape Trees - UCANR (PDF)
Repot Your Plants by UC Master Gardeners of Napa County (potting soil mix recipes included)
Repotting and Fertilizing Houseplants by University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension
Repotting Basics - Tips to Ensure Vitality in Woody Contain Plants, University of Georgia
Healthy Garden Tips -- Soil Mixes for Container Gardening by UC Master Gardeners of Napa County
Tips For Beginners: How to Transplant a Container-Grown Plant, Virginia Tech
This blog post is brought to you by the Help Desk of the UC Master Gardeners of Alameda County.
Our last newsletter may have prompted you to have more questions about citrus. The good news is, the topic for January Classes at Stanislaus County Libraries is (you guessed it) Growing Citrus Trees! We hope to see you at one of these free classes.
You can also see a list of our classes on our calendar by visiting our website at https://ucanr.edu/sites/stancountymg/Calendar/
p.s. February's topic is Spring Vegetable Gardening, stay tuned for more information!