- Author: Thomas Getts
While typically associated with timber production and arborists, chainsaws are one of the tools available to those tasked with removing non-desirable woody vegetation. What a fun, powerful, and dangerous tool they are! Ranging from small light electric saws to two-stroke saws with 30 inch bars, there is a chainsaw manufactured to fit your needs. After working a saw all day, the old adage “less is more” may come to mind, as smaller saws are easier to handle over long hours.
Recently, I have been helping out with a document focused on non-chemical control methods for weeds. While contributing to the section on chainsaws, it made me reminiscent of work I conducted in graduate school. The project I worked on focused on removing Russian olive, which is invasive within riparian areas of the arid west. I thought it would be worthwhile sharing a few tips and pointers when considering using a saw, and what to do after the cut has been made.
The first step to using a saw is being comfortable with the tool's operation. This point cannot be overstated! Even small saws have tremendous potential to injure the user. Likewise, trees are large heavy objects that have potential to injure or damage anyone or anything within the height of the tree. Even straight trees do not always fall where the feller intends. Training in proper felling technique is the second point, which cannot be overstated. Personal protective equipment is essential: gloves, helmet, face shield, ear protection, and a good pair of chaps are all necessary.
I am not going to get into the details of chainsaw operation, as I want to focus on what happens after the cut. However, there are three tips I want to share:
- Keep the area around your feet clear while making a cut, and always have an escape path if things do not go as planned.
- Proper chain tension is essential - too tight and the chain will not spin, too loose and it can come flying off the from the bar at high velocity. (It only takes throwing a chain once to pay close attention.)
- Use the chain brake whenever an active cut is not being conducted. The chain brake keeps the chain from moving and is there to keep you safe.
For effective control, cuts need to be made low to the ground, as tall stumps can be cumbersome for future management actions on site. Sometimes a low cut is best achieved by felling the tree first, and making a second cut of the shorter stump close to the ground. Rocks, dirt and terrain can often prevent a low cut being made in all instances. Keeping the chain free of debris is essential to keeping the teeth sharp and functioning properly. Keeping the chain clean, while making a low cut is a fine line, and may be a bit of a catch-22 situation. Rocks can be especially problematic, especially in the heat of the summer when a single spark can start a fire.
Coniferous tree species are an excellent target for control with chainsaws. Western Juniper, a native species, has expanded its range in the Intermountain Region of California over the past 100 years, as land management practices such a fire suppression have changed. Chainsaws are one of the first tools mangers reach for to remove large juniper trees in restoration projects, with goals such as protecting sage grouse habitat. Coniferous species typically will not re-sprout after being cut low to the ground, below any green material. (However, there have been reports of occasional re-sprouts from juniper.) The general lack of suckering/sprouting from conifers make chainsaws an excellent tool to remove the woody vegetation. After the trees are cut, it is still important to monitor these areas for saplings initially missed, or for new seedlings.
Above: Large and small juniper in Lassen county. Notice the expanse of juniper on the hills in the distance.
Many of the invasive tree species in our state are deciduous, and deciduous trees are typically not as easy to manage with chainsaws alone. Eucalyptus, tree-of-heaven, and tamarix, are just some examples of deciduous woody species that are invasive within California. Unlike coniferous tree species, many deciduous trees will vigorously re-sprout from the stump or roots after being cut. Chainsaws are a good choice to remove mature vegetation, but they must be combined with secondary control methods to kill the roots. Continual cutting of the regrowth multiple times a year for multiple years will suppress the root system, but may not kill it. Chainsaws are one of the tools used to trim suckers, but other tools such as sawzall's, loppers, or brush cutters may be more effective. Suckers can also be dealt with using a physical barrier. Tarps, black plastic, or rubber can be stretched over the stumps after cutting to physically prevent sprouts from reaching any sunlight. For some deciduous woody species, there has been evidence that cutting before the dry season can help limit the number of suckers which grow after cutting.
Above: A chainsaw would be the tool needed cut these Eucalyptus. Follow up with herbicides or tarps would be needed to control the regrowth.
Chainsaws are often combined with an herbicide application for woody vegetation control. The applications are referred to as “cut stump” treatments on various product labels. Two of the most common herbicides used are triclopyr and glyphosate. (Many other herbicides are also labeled for cut stump treatments). Ideally, the tree should be felled and applications should be made to a fresh cut where the concentrated herbicide can be painted or sprayed onto the stump. It is important to get adequate coverage of the cambial layer (inner bark) on the surface of the cut, and down the bark on the shoulder of the stump. These systemic herbicide applications will translocate down to the roots of the removed woody vegetation, helping to prevent suckering. Cut stump treatments are not just used for invasive plants, but can also be an effective way to deal with sprouting stumps in urban landscapes.
Whatever invasive woody vegetation is being targeted with chainsaws, it is important to monitor the site for trees that may have been missed, suckers from old root systems, or seedlings germinating in from the seedbank.
This article first appeared in the UC Weed Science blog.
- Author: Edward Walbolt
Late in the winter, amateur arborists in Solano County find it an ideal time to prune their trees. It is the time of the year when most of the trees are free of cumbersome leaves which are time consuming to clean up after a trim. Leaves also tend to hinder branch identification by obstructing their view. The fact is the winter is the time of year when deciduous trees are easiest to work with. Consequently, it is also the time of year when we see when catastrophic tree injury caused by an individual, uneducated in horticulture, with a chainsaw and good intentions. Before you set out to prune, remember the serious do’s and don’ts for the amateur arborist to consider before taking that chain saw to that precious tree. The first rule when pruning a tree is not to stub or head the tree branches, instead remove the entire branch so that another branch can assume the new lead-this method is called thinning. An equally important tip is to never top a tree, it ruins the natural shape of the tree and leaves it more vulnerable to pests and disease as it ages. The final piece of advice is to never make a flush cut down to the trunk of a branch, instead leave a small collar at the base of every branch but don’t leave a long stub either (the photo attached shows stubs left far too long). The final piece of tree trimming is to remove any diseased or dead branches and smaller competing limbs. The idea is to thin the branches equally around the entire tree. This is a topic that I recommend you speak with an arborist or master gardener about if you have any questions because trees are such an important investment in your landscape.
- Author: Betsy Lunde
This blog is for all you “Paul (and Paulette) Bunyans” out there who want to cut something down; specifically, a tree with a chain saw. We’ve all seen people (usually men) operating chain saws with wood chips flying around, shrub or tree becoming a smaller and rather tidy pile of wood and brush. Ever wonder if you too could accomplish this job? Earn bragging rights: “Oh, by the way, I cut down that old tree in the backyard this morning and have a supply of wood for the fireplace, ready to go!” Or did you figure to save the money you’d pay a tree service? You can, but you need the basics first. I run chainsaws in the course of my job, and there is no safer way to operate one of these machines, electric or gas-powered than by knowing the basics and following them every time. Let’s start out with some basics:
The first thing to do before even looking at a chainsaw is to prepare for the task. This means having the correct protective gear or items. Personal Protective Equipment (or PPEs) is your first line of safety when work with machinery.
In this case, a hard hat (helmet) will protect your head from falling limbs or branches. The best helmets will also have a face guard. But, you say, I’m not going to have limbs and branches falling; a helmet will also protect your face from branch/limb tips that may rake across your face while working and prevent large pieces of material from poking you around the eye area.
The next PPE would be safety glasses or goggles; these prevent smaller pieces of debris from your eyes as well. If you wear glasses, use goggles; these are designed to fit snuggly over glasses so that your eyes are totally protected.
Ear muffs or ear plugs will protect your ears from permanent injury from the noise generated by chainsaws. Noise from some gas-powered chain saws can exceed 100 decibels. A hard hat that includes ear muff and a face shield is the best PPE chainsaw work. For the hands, lightweight gloves which fit snuggly, preferably leather will protect your hand from cuts, scratches, and scrapes.
Always wear trim-fitting clothing with, buttoned sleeves; no rings, watches, or jewelry. Loose clothing can snag easily on branches, debris or even the chainsaw itself!
Wear chainsaw chaps to protect your legs from saw kickback. These chaps are made of ballistic nylon fibers that, when cut, clog the chain saw and stop it from cutting any deeper. A side note: I have a pair of chaps at home that have a 10 gash in them at the thigh area. This occurred when I used my thigh to balance a chainsaw when cutting. I’ve never done that again!!!
Last PPE item is good-fitting leather work boots with a minimum of 6” high tops and steel toes to protect your feet.
Remember to know First Aid, especially for severe bleeding, 2nd degree burns (the muffler can get extremely hot), and that all persons in the area know where the First Aid kit is. Please also remember that running a chainsaw is not a 1-person show; even professionals also have 2 people in the area just in case there is an accident.
Now that you are dressed for the occasion, let’s go on and prepare the saw. I’m assuming at this point that you have read the instruction booklets that came with your saw which deal with familiarizing yourself with the operation and care of the chainsaw. Please don’t skip this important step –remember that a chainsaw is not a toy or something to fool around with; treat is as you would treat any piece of machinery, with care and respect!
Make sure that the chain is sharp and tensioned properly. Your operator’s manual will have this information. A chain that is too loose can derail (throw) and can whip back at you; a chain that is too tight will bind and wear out prematurely. Make sure that your saw is clean, with a clean air filter, good spark plug, and have an effective muffler. All the skill in the world will not overcome a dirty, not fully functioning chainsaw. Make sure that it is full of gas and chain saw before staring out. If using an electric saw, make sure that you have a long enough extension cord which is compatible with the amperage of the saw.
Before starting the engine, set the saw on a firm surface in an open arena free of debris or combustible material. Make sure the chain brake is engaged (this stops the blade until you release it). Maintain good balance and have secure footing. Grip the handlebar firmly with the left hand and press down to keep the saw from moving around once it starts. With your right hand, pull out the starter cord until there is a definite resistance and give a brisk, strong pull.
When operating the saw, always hold the chainsaw firmly with both hands; wrap your fingers and thumbs around the handles. Grip the front handle with your left hand and the rear handle with your right hand, even if you are left-handed like me. With your hands in this position, you can best oppose and absorb the push, pull, and kickback forces of the saw without losing control. Keep proper footing and balance at all times. Never use a chainsaw with only one hand!
Finally a list of chainsaw “don’ts”:
When operating a chainsaw, never do the following:
- Work alone
- Work on a ladder or any other insecure support
- Hold the saw above shoulder height
- Overreach to make a cut
- Work in a tree
- Put pressure on the saw when reaching the end of a cut (the pressure may cause the bar and rotating chain to pop out of the cut, go out of control and strike you or some other object.)
- Work at night or in dim light
- Allow other people in the general work area, even when starting the saw
- Operate the saw indoor or in poorly ventilated conditions
- Use the saw to pry or shovel away limbs, roots, or other object
- Refuel a hot saw
- “drop start” a saw as you may drop it after it is started and running
Yes, the above list seems a little on the “Duh!!” side, however, remember that this list exists because someone has done all of these things.
A chainsaw, much like other motorized machinery, can help make a job faster and easier –But only when used properly!