- Author: Christine Casey
Spring is here, and planting is underway in bee gardens throughout California. And planting, especially if you're creating a new garden, means you are thinking about design. In this series of posts I will cover various aspects of garden design -- such as color, texture, shape, and size -- from the perspective of what bees need. Based on research, this information should provide a solid foundation for a successful bee garden.
This post will focus on color. An understanding of color theory is helpful in creating an aesthetically pleasing garden for us, but color is also relevant for bees. All color wheel screen shots shown here are from the Adobe web page.
1. Complementary colors. Colors opposite each other on the color wheel are complementary; this is one of the easiest ways to select colors. Using opposite colors together makes each color appear more vibrant.
2. Analogous colors. Colors adjacent to each other on the color wheel are analogous; using these colors can be a bit trickier, especially with hot colors like oranges and reds. One way to combine these effectively is to mix in white, as is done here with white gaura in this planting of the analogous colors pink (echinacea) and purple (tall verbena).
3. Shades of one color. This is the easiest combination to pull off. Cool colors (blues and purples) tend to create a calming effect and make the garden appear larger, while warm colors (reds and yellows) create energy and make the garden appear smaller. Here is an example of shades of a cool color (purple) used in the Haven:
So how do we meld this with bee biology? Here are some pointers:
1. Bees see color differently than we do. They don't see red at all, and see purple very well....there's a reason we have so many purple flowers in the Haven. Here's an example: the first photo shows a flannel bush flower in daylight, while the second shows it under ultraviolet (UV) light, which is the light spectrum where bees see. The 'invisible' nectar (to us) is a bright blue beacon to bees under UV light.
But, you might be thinking, I see bees on red flowers all the time! Well bees can use more than color to find a flower, which brings us to scent....I'll discuss this in a future post.
2. Does color pattern in the garden matter to bees? One study (Proc. R. Soc. London B. 2003. 270: 569-575) found that honey bee foraging distance was longer in simple landscapes; this makes sense because honey bees do best with a varied diet and need to travel further to find a mix of flowers in a simple landscape. Conversely, waggle dance activity was greater in complex landscapes because the patches of plants were more variable -- high quality and low quality plants were mixed together. So it's also important to ensure a good mix of high-quality bee plants in appropriately-sized patches.
3. Another aspect of flower color often not considered is patterns on the flowers themselves. Called nectar guides, these serve to guide bees into the nectary. Of course they pick up and deposit pollen as they do this, thereby pollinating the flower.
For lots more detail about how bees see, check out this article. My next post will cover shape, size, scent, and texture. I'll finish with suggested plant lists and planting plans. Here's to your successful bee garden!
- Author: Alison Collin
Part I: Chartreuse and gold-leaved plants.
Why wait until fall to enjoy spectacular leaf colors? There are plenty of plants that burst forth in spring with leaves of different hues adding interest to the garden while we wait for summer blooms.
The following plants are hardy to USDA Zone 7 and perform reliably in most of the Owens Valley.
I am particularly fond of chartreuse foliage to add a cheerful splash of color to borders. One of the best shrubs is the Ninebark, Physocarpus opulofolius ‘Darts Gold' which has much to offer. Sending out arching branches covered in brilliant citric-green leaves, numerous clusters of pollinator-friendly white flowers clothe it in spring, followed by red berries. The exfoliating bark also adds interest in winter. It will tolerate dry soils but does best with regular water. It is a fast grower, and the branches can be cut and used in flower arrangements.
There are numerous cultivars of Spirea with similarly colored foliage; Golden Elf, Lime glow, or Spiraea x bumalda 'Goldflame' which grows as a compact mound of foliage, topped by clusters of fluffy dark pink flowers, eventually followed by coppery-orange fall foliage.
Berberis thunbergii ‘Golden Rocket' (Barberry) is an upright shrub with bright golden foliage that turns to more orange shades in fall.
Little Honey oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia 'Little Honey') is a yellow leaved sport of the more common variety of this plant. For the best color it requires morning sun, but will not perform well if exposed to afternoon rays.
Sambucus racemosa Lemony Lace™ is an elderberry with bright yellow/green feathery leaves suitable for zones 4-7, so could be grown in the cooler aspects of the Sierra's Eastside.
Another effective bright chartreuse herbaceous plant is Agastache foeniculum 'Golden Jubilee'. This is a perennial which produces mounds of brilliant spring foliage from which develop stems to about 3' during the summer. These are topped with spikes of blue flowers which attract bees and hummingbirds. The foliage has a delightful licorice-odor when brushed or crushed, giving rise to its common name of Anise hyssop. It is said to be deer resistant too.
For a lower growing ground cover in the same color-range it is hard to beat Golden oregano, Oreganum vulgare 'Aureum'. This herb does double duty since it can be used as a culinary flavoring too.
Campanula "Dixon's Gold" can be used as a small scale ground cover, its typical campanula-blue flowers contrasting nicely with the foliage.
Modern plant breeding has resulted in many new varieties ofherbaceous plants and annuals with brilliant gold or lime green foliage: Hosta "Twist of lime", Heuchera "Citronelle" or "Lime Rickey" and Coleus 'Electric Lime' , as well as grasses such as the Japanese forest grass Hakonechloa macra 'All gold'.
If you are looking for a substantial tree 'Chief Joseph' Lodgepole Pine (Pinus contorta var. latifolia 'Chief Joseph') might be worth considering, although it is dull green during much of the year it becomes a brilliant gold in winter.
These plants form striking contrasts with other foliage colors such as burgundy and dark greens, or with flowers in the purple/blue hues. In a desert environment they make a welcome change from the grays and dull greens of the natural vegetation while in more wooded settings they can liven up a dark corner.
A word of warning: Don't overdo these colors or they will tend to lose their striking impact, or even worse your borders may give the impression that they are seriously deficient in nitrogen!
- Author: Bud Veliquette
Zinnias are from the family Asteraceae, and there are many species. The most familiar, Zinnia elegans, is originally from Mexico, and is therefore sun and heat loving plant that grows up to 3’ high.
They have become one of my favorites for cutting because of their intense and varied colors, which make it perfect for a tabletop vase.
I have them planted right now in one of my 4x4’ mini farm boxes, and they have been doing very well for the past two months after a slow start. I put in 6-6 packs of the State Fair Mix last May. The young starts took hold, but showed signs of fertilizer burn for the first 6-8 weeks, which now in retrospect makes sense because of the fresh bagged potting soil they were planted in. However, now, they have more than compensated for their earlier malaise, as they have almost outgrown their container. I pick enough weekly to have a fresh arrangement or two for the house, or to give away. Cuts are made about 12 inches down, but above the side shoots, which will allow new blooms to grow.
This time of year some of the lower leaves have powdery mildew, from too many overcast mornings in Sunset Zone 17, and in spite of hot afternoon sun. However, this is not a problem, since most of the leaves are stripped when they are brought in for arrangements.
For strictly ornamental garden beds, dwarf zinnias (Zinnia angustifolia) look great for instant color, and also as a butterfly attractant. They come in brilliant colors of orange, yellow and white, and they are more resistant to powdery mildew. Mixed with pockets of electric blue Lobelia (Lobelia erinus), they make a stunning garden display.
- Author: Val Whitmyre
Of all the plants that grow well in Napa Valley, camellias are among the stars. They shine from October through April, with their glossy evergreen leaves and variety of blooms and growth patterns.
My first visit to the annual Napa Valley Camellia Society show was an eye opener. Long ago, I thought that camellias were just flowers that plop onto the ground after blooming, leaving a mess to clean up, so I was astonished with the beauty before me as I entered the show. All messy images instantly disappeared.
This year's show will be particularly special because camellia lovers from as far away as New Zealand, all members of the American Camellia Society, will be joining the Napa group for the annual national convention.
On Saturday, February 2, the Napa Valley Camellia Society will again present its exquisite show from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. at the Napa Senior Center. The public is encouraged to attend. There is no admission fee.
If you grow camellias, you may want to bring one of your favorites to be judged. You might win a prize. More importantly, you can learn a few facts about these incredible flowers before you run to a nursery to buy them.
There are six different types of camellias: single, semi-double, formal double, rose form, peony and anemone. All have clusters of golden stamens.
Camellias are evergreen shrubs or small trees first discovered in Asia. You can see them in the older sections of downtown Napa, still healthy after many years.
Known as understory plants, they grow well under Douglas fir, redwood and old oak trees. These trees provide protection from the elements and a greenhouse effect to help keep the camellia roots healthy and warm.
Camellias are almost carefree and, in my experience, withstand drought and moderate frost. The major problem is exposure to hot summer afternoon sun and drying winds.
Camellia blight, a fungal disease, turns the flowers an ugly brown. The disease is common in rainy years, with white and pale pink varieties especially susceptible. In general, camellias like cool winters, lightly acid soil and excellent water drainage. They thrive in filtered shade and in soil rich with organic matter. In other words, they do well in conditions that mimic the forest locations where they were first found.
For camellia care, it is easier to tell you what not to do. Camellias have a shallow root system, so avoid any digging that might injure delicate feeder roots. They respond well to a thick layer of organic mulch to help protect these roots. They don't need any particular pruning, although cutting out thick foliage that might prevent air circulation may be helpful. You may also remove any branches that seem out of place.
Camellias need moderate watering, with perhaps a bit more during hot summer weather. Use a camellia fertilizer in the spring after flowering, following directions on the package. In the fall, use only 0-10-10 fertilizer to promote healthy roots and flowering.
Although there are hundreds of different camellia species, only a few are considered show-worthy. These are the popular Camellia japonica, C. reticulata and crosses between these two species. Large blossoms are four to five inches across, very large ones over five inches.
Other species are notable for other uses and characteristics. Sasanqua camellias may be grown as landscape shrubs, container plants, espaliers, hedges and bonsai specimens. Their flowers are considered small to medium, at two and a half to three inches across, but other characteristics make them desirable landscape plants. They drop their petals one by one and some are fragrant. One of my favorites, ‘Jean May', is a delicate shell pink reminiscent of a fragile china cup, yet it withstands rain and frost. My newest Sasanqua, ‘Old Glory', is so lovely, with large white wavy petals that remind me of a rare butterfly.
C. sinensis provides us with tea, and C. oleifera gives us cooking oil. The species camellia, C. nitidissima, known as the golden camellia, is used to introduce the color yellow into other camellias. Another species, C. lutchuensis, provides fragrance in hybrids.
Most camellias bloom in variations of pink, red and white. Occasionally a sport will appear on a branch, with blossoms that display white stripes or blotches or other unusual markings that differ from the original color. This sport is the result of a systemic viral mutation. It doesn't seem to harm the plant; in fact, some hybridizers duplicate this mutation with lovely results. Look for these mutations when you go to the show. See you there. I'll be wearing a camellia on my lapel.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners (http://napamg.ucanr.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4221 or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions?
- Author: Denise Seghesio Levine
In the coldest days of winter we can all use a little splash of color in the garden. This month your nursery or garden center should have plenty of bedding plants to fill the bill. Look for upright, colorful primroses in bold, primary colors; mischievous-faced pansies in yellows and blues; and delicate Iceland poppies in translucent salmon, pink, white and yellow.
The word primula is the Latin feminine diminutive of primus, meaning first (prime), and is applied to flowers that are among the first to open in spring.
Primroses (Primula vulgaris) do well in Napa Valley, bringing color to our grayest season. They thrive in the winter chill. While many varieties of primrose bloom through spring and summer, the English, Chinese and fairy primroses are especially good choices for winter.
The flower stalks of primroses shoot up from low, ground-hugging rosettes of thick green leaves. Whether the stocky English variety or the more ethereal-looking fairy type, most primroses bloom for weeks.
Primroses will grow in shady, damp parts of the garden that might thwart other flowers. Try them on the north side of the house or under deciduous trees. They appreciate sun in the spring but do better in shade when the summer heat hits.
Primulas prefer slightly acid soil rich in organic compost or leaf mulch. Most varieties require well-drained soil, but there are exceptions: Helodoxa, Bulleyana and Beesiana will grow in relatively wet soil, and Florindae and japonica will even thrive in wet, boggy spots.
When you buy primroses, choose plants that still have unopened blossoms. These will grow vigorously when you set them out in well-dug soil amended with compost or leaf mulch. Primroses are easy to transplant, but beware: some gardeners develop itchy dermatitis after transplanting primroses. Pull out the gloves for this chore.
Space primulas six to eight inches apart, and plant so that the crown is even with the soil. Mulch and water well. Primulas are usually pest free, although slugs and snails can do some damage.
Perky-faced pansies (Viola tricolor) in a multitude of colors make wonderful bedding and container plants for winter. Pansies and their cousins, violets and violas, are perennials but are normally grown as annuals or biennials because they tend to get leggy after one season.
Pansy "faces" are made up of five flat petals: two top, two side and one lower petal. Typically, each flower exhibits two or three colors. The side and bottom petals often have contrasting veins radiating from the center of the bloom, teasing the imagination into seeing perky little faces. For gardens designed to delight youngsters, pansies, violets and violas are essential components. They create magical habitats and memories that last.
Pansies grow successfully in a well-drained, sunny spot. Bring home six-packs or flats and plant them directly in the garden. Pansies normally grow about nine inches high with most blossoms measuring two to three inches across.
Pansies look great planted in mass in a bed, or in flower pots or containers on porches and decks where you can see their cheery faces up close. Never overwater pansies, but if rain is not keeping the ground moist, give them a good soak once a week.
As for Iceland poppies (Papaver nudicaule), they do best in cool weather. They grow about a foot tall with cream, white, pink, red, salmon, orange or rose-colored papery petals on tall, leafless stems.
Plant Iceland poppies carefully as their roots do not appreciate being disturbed. Make sure the crown is just slightly below the soil surface to avoid rot. Water weekly if rain is scarce.
Iceland poppies make wonderful cut flowers, and a handful can make a whimsical bouquet. Your poppies will bloom more prolifically if you pick them often. Iceland poppies will stop blooming when the weather gets hot, so enjoy the winter color and their frilly blossoms indoors and out.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners (http://napamg.ucanr.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4221, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions?