- Author: Lisa Nedlan
I can name that flying insect in 3 clues – how about you?
Match the clue to the insect's image. Place an X in the appropriate column.
Resources:
UC IPM, Syrphids (Flower Flies or Hover Flies) https://ipm.ucanr.edu/natural-enemies/syrphids/
University of Florida, European honey bee https://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/misc/BEES/euro_honey_bee.htm
University of Minnesota Extension, Syrphid flies https://extension.umn.edu/beneficial-insects/syrphid-flies
US Forest Service, Syrphid fly (Sphaerophoria philanthus) https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/pollinators/pollinator-of-the-month/syrphid-fly.shtml
Utah State University Extension, Beneficial Predators: Syrphid Flies https://digitalcommons.usu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2969&context=extension_curall
Photo credits:
Honeybee photo by Leo Kriss: https://www.pexels.com/photo/macro-photography-of-honeybee-perched-on-blue-petaled-flower-754313/
Syrphid Fly photo by Leslie Saunders on Unsplash
- Author: Denise Godbout-Avant
Bees are pollinators. Pollinators are crucial to the success of flowering plants by transporting pollen, thus allowing fertilization to occur. We would not have fruits and vegetables on our kitchen tables without them. They are vital to California's agriculture industry.
California's wide diversity of habitats supports a corresponding diversity of pollinators. Bees are the main pollinators with butterflies, other insects, and some birds such as hummingbirds also playing important roles. California has an estimated 1,200 – 1,500 native bees and over 200 species of butterflies.
What do Pollinators Require?
Due to climate change, the reduction of native habitats, and environmental chemicals, many pollinators are struggling. Providing plants in our gardens that attract pollinators can produce lovely, colorful landscapes while also benefiting pollinators.
Visit La Loma Native Plant Garden's Festival
You can see native plants that attract pollinators by visiting La Loma's Native plant garden on 1805 Encina Avenue in Modesto anytime. Or attend the Pollinator Festival, a free event held by the North San Joaquin Chapter of the California Native Plant Society on Saturday, April 13th 2024 from 10am – 2pm. Stop by the UC Cooperative Extension Master Gardener booth to see our insect collection and get a free packet of flower seeds.
The event will have a pollinator parade at 10:15, as well as face painting, music, food, and more! You can also hear from an entomologist on the importance of pollinators.
Learn More In-Depth Information About Pollinators at Library Talks
Denise Godbout-Avant has been a UC Cooperative Extension Master Garden in Stanislaus County since 2020.
/h3>/h3>/h3>
- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
Sometimes overlooked as pollinators are the syrphid flies, also known as "hover flies" or "flower flies."
Unfortunately, they are often mistaken for honey bees. Hey, if it's a critter on a flower, it's a bee, right?
Not necessarily!
Syrphid flies are easily distinguished from honey bees. Among the differences: (1) honey bees don't hover, (2) syrphids have only one pair of wings, while honey bees have two (3) syrphids have short, stubby antennae, while honey bees have long, bent antennae called genticulate antennae and (4) syrphids belong to the order Diptera, while honey bees are in the order Hymenoptera.
We spotted this syprhid fly soaking up some early-morning sun It stayed still for a dorsal photo and then sensing danger, slipped under a leaf.
Scientists estimate that there are more than 6200 species of syrphid flies in the world, and more than 3000 in California alone.
The UC Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program (UC IPM) has this to say about syprhids in its Natural Enemies Gallery post: "Adults are robust to slender flies 1/8 to 1 inch (4–25 mm) long, varying by species. The broad head is about the width of the abdomen or wider and has large eyes with distinct antennae. The body of many adults is black with bands or stripes of orange, yellow, or white, resembling stinging bees or wasps. Some species are mostly brown, metallic blue or green, yellow, or combinations of these or other colors. For example, adults of ant-predaceous Microdon species are blackish to brown or bright to dark greenish."
Many syrphids prey on aphids and mealybugs, so they're good guys and gals to have in your garden.
Says UC IPM: "Most species are predaceous, most commonly on aphids or mealybugs. Some syrphids prey on ants, caterpillars, froghoppers, psyllids, scales, other insects, or mites."
The good guys and gals of the garden...
“Kill your lawn!” has become a popular phrase and landscaping trend in recent years. Whether you are looking to completely remove your lawn or just renovate it, this article will give you useful information to help you decide how best to do away with your existing lawn and prepare for your new design.
There are many reasons someone might be looking to get rid of their lawn.
- Can be costly to maintain (water, landscapers, time, equipment, fertilizers, etc.)
- Aesthetics (desire a different look)
- Create habitat (plants for birds, pollinators, natural enemies, etc.)
- Replace groundcover (plant different grass type, install turfgrass alternative)
- Save water by using drought resistant or low-water needing plants
On the other hand, someone might decide to keep or install a new lawn for many reasons.
- Use by children and pets (soft outdoor area for moving around and playing)
- Can be low maintenance (compared to certain plant selections)
- Aesthetics (prefer the look of a lawn)
Whatever your reasoning for killing your existing lawn or removing sections of it, there are several methods you can use to do so, both chemical and non-chemical. You may also choose to use a combination of both.
Sheet mulching
A low-cost method for killing your lawn is to cover it with cardboard or several layers of newspaper. Closely mow the grass and place 1 to 3 layers of unwaxed cardboard or newspaper on top to prevent sunlight from allowing the grass to grow. Top with 1 to 2 inches of compost and 3 to 4 inches of mulch.
Soil solarization
This method works to “cook” the existing lawn by trapping heat from the sun under a clear plastic tarp. Intense sunlight and high temperatures are required for this method, so it is best done in the summer, in areas that receive full sun. Cloudy or foggy regions, or shady parts of the yard won't be as effectively killed. Dig out or closely mow the existing lawn. Wet the soil in the area that you intend to cover. Tightly cover with a clear plastic tarp. Leave the tarp on for 4 to 6 weeks, and maintain soil temperature below the tarp between 110º to 125°F. For more in-depth soil solarization instructions and information, see the UC IPM Pest Notes: Soil Solarization for Gardens & Landscapes.
Hand-digging or machine use
You can remove a lawn manually by digging it out, using a sod cutter, or using a rototiller machine. These methods are more physically demanding so they are better for smaller spaces. Moisten the soil prior to removal to make it easier to dig or cut out. To dig out your lawn, use a flat shovel and dig parallel to the soil to remove the top 1 to 2 inches of lawn. A sod cutter can be rented to similarly remove the top 1 to 2 inches by cutting the lawn into strips.
Herbicide application
One of the quickest and less labor-intensive ways to kill an existing lawn is to apply a nonselective, systemic herbicide like diquat or glyphosate that will kill most weeds and the turfgrass and their roots. It may take up to 7 days after the application for the grass to completely absorb the material and plant damage to start showing. Depending on temperature, it can take up to 2 weeks for the entire lawn to die.
Herbicides that work on contact like acetic acid (vinegar) and ammonium salt of fatty acid (herbicidal soap) are not as efficient as they do not kill weeds and grasses to the root. Multiple applications of the contact herbicide are likely needed as well as hand-removing the plant material.
For more detailed information on lawn removal see Lawn Removal Methods by the UCCE Master Gardeners of Sacramento County.
You've successfully killed your lawn, now what?
If you want to reestablish your lawn and reseed, you'll need to think about irrigation, amending the soil (if needed), and choosing a grass variety that is best suited for your area and goals. To learn more about lawn renovation and how to establish and care for a new lawn, see the UC Guide to Healthy Lawns. If you're considering installing artificial turf (fake grass), evaluate the risks involved by visiting https://gba.org/blog/artificial-turf-fields-health-and-environmental-concerns/.
If you'd like to replace your lawn with mulch or rocks, see our Mulch resource page to learn about this option. Prior to applying wood or rock mulch to an area, you may want to place landscape fabric or sheet mulch (cardboard or paper) over the soil to prevent weeds and grasses from growing.
If you wish to replace your lawn with an alternative, like clover or thyme, see the Lawn & Lawn Alternatives resource from the UC Marin County Master Gardeners. For more information about replacing your lawn with flowering plants to attract pollinators and beneficial insects, or reduce water use, visit:
- UC Master Gardeners
- UC Davis Arboretum's Planting Plans
- California Native Plant Society's Native Plant Lists and Planners
- UC IPM Insectary Plants
- CA. Department of Water Resources Water Efficient Landscaping
Keep in mind that none of these methods will absolutely prevent weeds and grasses from invading your lawn or landscaped areas in the future. Keeping weeds out and preventing undesirable grassy areas from regrowing, requires diligence and a combination of control methods. To learn more about weed management in landscaped areas, see the UC IPM Pest Notes: Weed Management in Landscapes. For weed management in lawns, see the UC IPM Pest Notes: Weed Management in Lawns.
/h2>- Author: Kamyar Aram
Autumn is in the air, and while it is still high season for harvest for many crops, shorter days and cooler temperatures inevitably bring to mind that winter prep tasks are not far off. And while the winter is the off-season for most crops in our region, it is definitely the on-season for cover crops. This is because, in California where irrigation water is a premium resource, we typically rely on winter rains to water cover crops. While it is ideal to make plans in advance and get the seed order in ahead of the fall rush, there is still time to think about getting a cover crop in before winter storms settle in.
What are cover crops and what are their benefits?
Cover crops include a wide range of herbaceous plants grown with the primary goal of producing biomass for the soil. They offer many opportunities to address specific soil concerns, in addition to improving and maintaining soil health, in general.
Cover crops can:
- Improve soil physical & biological functions
- Improve water infiltration
- Contribute and retain soil nitrogen
- Allow machinery earlier access to wet fields
- Suppress weeds
- Support pollinators & other beneficial insects
Water infiltration is one of the main issues that motivate growers to plant cover crops in California, as roots open new channels and feed underground life. This is especially helpful in orchards and vineyards where soil compaction is especially difficult to remedy. Cover crops can also contribute significantly to nutrient management, both in the use of nitrogen-fixing legume species, or by just foraging left-over nitrogen at the end of the season and keeping it from leaching out of the soil profile. The organic matter that cover crops contribute also improves soil structure and how much water and nutrients it can hold.
Cover crop types and their applications
Cover crops are often broadly grouped by plant types that differ in their primary benefits. For example, grasses generally produce dense stands with extensive, fine, fibrous roots that improve water infiltration and are excellent at mining nitrogen. They are more amenable to driving on at earlier growth stages, and are usually easy to mow. Legumes can actually add nitrogen to the soil through their symbiosis with bacteria that sequester nitrogen from the atmosphere. Because of their high nitrogen content, their biomass generally decomposes more quickly than other cover crops, which can mean a quicker turnaround in a tight planting schedule. Plants in the mustard family produce deep, thick tap roots that open up the soil, and their flowers are favorites of pollinators and other beneficial insects, but if allowed to mature, their sturdy stems may take more work to chop and more time to decompose.
These different types can be used singly or in combinations. There are mixes that incorporate all three types to "hedge bets" against conditions that might disfavor one or another type, and to take advantage of the way that they can complement one another. Many seed companies have developed their own mixes with characteristics to serve specific needs and circumstances.
2022 Orchard Cover Crop Trial
Cover cropping can be as much art as science, if not more so, which means that experience and experiment are essential. To this end, in the fall of 2022, I teamed up with Tom Johnson of Kamprath Seed and a local walnut grower to test out some different cover crops with the hope to improve water infiltration in the orchard. Our trial included a winter triticale, a hybrid grass known for abundant root production without too much aboveground growth, a mustard “pollinator blend” that included a mix of mustard and radish types, and Kamprath Seed's walnut mix, which includes a full complement of grasses, mustards, and legumes. The grower added a forage, spring triticale, which has more of an upright growth, adding a second triticale type for comparison. It turned out to be a lucky year to have cover crops in the orchard, as it was an exceptionally wet winter, putting many fields feet underwater, especially where infiltration was poor. Overall, all of the cover crop types established rather well in most of the planted rows, though there was a great deal of variation throughout the orchard, showing how conditions can affect the crop. Nevertheless, the walnut mix (with legumes, mustard, and grasses) consistently produced the highest total biomass, even in places where the mustard mix and straight triticale came up somewhat thin (see chart below). This highlights the advantages of diversity, but as Tom pointed out during our spring field day for the trial, results may vary considerably from year to year, and each type or blend will have advantages and disadvantages. You can learn more about the trial and the qualities of different cover crops in a video version of the field day on my YouTube channel.
Getting started with cover crops
If you are inspired, I think it is with good reason. Cover crops are tools with great potential and they really engage farming know-how and problem-solving muscles. As in all new things, it's always best to start small and experiment. There are many resources available for learning the basics or refining your existing knowledge about how to effectively employ and benefit from cover crops. In 2021, UCCE and the Resource Conservation District in Contra Costa County together developed Cover Cropping Opportunities in Specialty Crops, a series of recorded webinars and virtual site visits that explore the world of cover cropping from many different angles. These videos offer a wealth of information, instruction, and demonstrations from experienced practitioners and experts.
In addition, below are listed some other excellent UC resources on cover cropping:
Cover Cropping Opportunities in Specialty Crops video series by Contra Costa County Resource Conservation District and UC Cooperative Extension
Grasses, Mustards, & Legumes: An Orchard Cover Crop Field Day video featuring Tom Johnson of Kamprath Seed by UCCE Specialty Crops in the East Bay/Mt Diablo Region
Covercrops for California Agriculture UC ANR Publication Number 21471
Cover Cropping for Vegetable Production UC ANR Publication Number 3517
Cover Cropping in Vineyards: A Grower's Handbook UC ANR Publication Number 3338
Cover Crop Management in Annual Farming Systems Blog Post by UCCE Agronomy Advisor, Sarah Light
Cover Crop Best Management Practices published by the Almond Board of California in collaboration with UC Davis and UC ANR.
Cover Crops for Walnut Orchards UC ANR Publication Number 21627e
Cover Crop Selection tool by UC ANR SAREP
/span>/span>