You say you don't have a green thumb, or you don't have a yard for gardening? No problem! You can easily grow fresh, nutritious microgreens all year long in a sunny window in your home. All you need is soil, seeds, a container, and water.

Microgreens are vegetables, lettuces, and herbs that are harvested very young. It takes less than two weeks after you have planted the seeds to harvest crisp greens that can be added to salads, tacos, sandwiches, and sautés. When harvested as young seedlings the plants contain four to six times more nutrients than the full-grown variety. They contain vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and phytonutrients.

Microgreens are larger than sprouts and smaller than baby lettuces. They can be grown from almost any vegetable or herb seed. You can find microgreen seed packets at most nurseries and online through seed catalogues. You can use single packets of seeds or make your own mix. When mixing a variety of seeds, make sure that the germination time for each type is about the same, so they can be harvested together. That information will be on the outside of the seed packet.

Experiment to find a flavor or combination of flavors that you enjoy. Try growing some spicy herbs and vegetables like radishes, mustards, arugula, or basil. Other good options for this method of growing are beets, broccoli, kale, peas, chard, cress, and sunflowers (sunflower sprouts have a nutty flavor and crunchy texture).

A south- or west-facing window is best for growing microgreens, but they will grow in an east-facing window, if they get at least four hours of sunlight each day. In mild climates microgreens can be grown outdoors. The growing conditions they require are moist soil, sun, and water. Fertilizing is not required.

To grow microgreens indoors start with preparing a container. Re-purpose an old plastic lettuce container or a plastic ‘flat' that came from the garden center. Kits that include a container, a soil mix, and seed are available online. Whatever you use for a container, make sure it has drainage holes and a soil mix that drains well. If you are using a plastic ‘flat' cover the bottom with burlap or weed cloth. Choose a soil mix or seed starting mix that is labeled organic or free of chemicals. The microgreens will draw most of their nutrition from the soil and water. Their green leaves manufacture carbohydrates using sunlight and carbon dioxide from the air.

Fill the container with moistened soil mix to within one inch from the top. Sprinkle seeds generously over the entire area. Cover very lightly with soil and use a spray bottle to moisten the top. You want to moisten, but not drench, the soil. Place the container in a sunny window.

If you plant microgreens outdoors in a native soil garden bed, make sure to start with a rich loosened seed bed soil. Outdoor containers should be filled with a soil mix that drains well (rather than simply your garden soil). Plant in full sun in the spring; but in the summer you will want to plant in a spot with partial shade because our summer heat is too intense for the seedlings. Keep the soil moist.

In less than two weeks you should be able to harvest your microgreens. The plants are ready for harvesting once they have two ‘true' leaves. When a seed germinates it produces cotyledons, which look like small leaves. After the cotyledons appear, ‘true' leaves follow. At this point the plants will be about two inches tall. Use a pair of scissors to snip a cluster just above the soil line. Once you have cut the microgreens you can rinse them gently but make sure to dry them with a salad spinner (or kitchen towel) to prevent them from wilting. They can be refrigerated for a short time. It is recommended that you use them right away so that they keep their crunchy texture and freshness.

Once you have snipped all the microgreens from the container the remaining roots will not grow back. These remaining roots are good sources of organic matter, so you can leave them in place and simply scatter more seed and soil on top. It is a good idea to start a new batch weekly, so you might like to use two containers; plant them one week apart, then alternate between them.

Growing microgreens is a simple way to add fresh, nutritious produce to your diet. They taste great and have a quick turn-around time. If you have children at home this is a fun project to do together. You can introduce the kids to the satisfaction of growing some of their own food and the fun of experimenting with their microgreens in everyday dishes.

The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, call the Hotline at (530) 538-7201 or email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.

Record numbers of people are gardening this spring and victory gardens are rapidly sprouting across the nation. Now is a better time than ever to learn how to save seeds.

People have saved plant seeds for millennia. Saving seeds from home grown vegetables is a connection to our ancestors, allowing future generations to enjoy the same varieties of tomatoes and great-tasting beans that great-grandma grew. Because successful plants reproduce, saving seeds can also increase one's gardening success over time. Plants successful in Chico will be adapted to the hot dry environment of the Central Valley, and their seeds will produce plants that tend to fare better in hot dry conditions than plants from seeds produced in a radically different environment such as the cool foggy coast. Saving seeds helps maintain the genetic diversity of our food supply, possibly helping adapt to new pests and diseases as well as changes in climate. Perhaps the biggest advantages of saving seeds are cost savings and self-sufficiency.

The process of saving seeds ranges from simple to complex, depending upon the vegetable. Seeds from hybrid plants will not grow true to type. In other words, the offspring will not resemble the parent plant, but will instead revert to characteristics of one of the two plant varieties that were crossed to create the hybrid. For seed-saving choose “open-pollinated” varieties, which will produce seeds with characteristics identical to the parent plant. Save seeds from healthy plants that exhibit the qualities you wish to preserve--definitely plan to save seeds from the heirloom tomato plant that produces the biggest and best-tasting tomatoes.

Some vegetables, like beans and peas, are self-pollinating. These are less likely to cross with other related varieties through insect pollination. Self-pollinating varieties are excellent choices for the beginning seed saver, as some pods can simply be left on the vine to dry out. Once completely dried, remove seeds from pods, place them in envelopes labeled with the variety and date and store them in an airtight container in a dry dark place. A mason jar placed in the refrigerator or freezer makes a good receptacle for seed packets. Properly stored bean and pea seeds should remain viable for three years.

Tomatoes are also largely self-pollinating, so with adequate separation between types (ten feet apart is recommended) several varieties can be grown for seed in the same garden. Harvest over-ripe fruit from several different plants of the same variety to maintain genetic diversity. Squeeze the pulp and seeds into a container and cover it, letting the seedy pulp ferment on your countertop for 3 days. The viable seeds will sink to the bottom of the liquid. Pour off the liquid, strain out these viable seeds, rinse and allow them to dry on a plate or paper towel. Once completely dried, they can be transferred to packets, and then labeled and stored as described above. Properly stored tomato seeds will remain viable for four or more years.

Peppers cross easily due to pollination. You may notice your sweet bell peppers suddenly take on a spicy hot pepper quality if you don't separate pepper varieties by at least 100 feet or plant barrier crops in between varieties. But pepper seeds are some of the easiest to save; just remove seeds from the fruit and dry them for two to three days on a plate or paper towel. Properly stored pepper seeds remain viable for up to two years.

Quickly growing lettuce is another ideal crop for the beginner gardener and seed saver. Lettuce can be harvested in the “cut and come again” method by harvesting outer leaves only and allowing the center to grow to maturity and set seed. They can also be grown as heads and harvested at once, but some plants will need to be reserved as seed producers. Use screens to separate mature seeds from the fluffy chaff which can harbor diseases, then label and store. Plant your saved lettuce seeds within three years.

Some vegetables require much more care to ensure that seeds do not carry mixed or unexpected character traits. While corn is an American staple in the garden and whole cobs are easily dried, wind pollination leads to easy crossing between different varieties. If you want to save corn seed, grow only one variety in a large patch (or in patches of different varieties separated by 1,000 feet, if you have that much space). Members of the squash family within the same species readily cross and must be separated by a half mile or hand-pollinated to ensure a pure strain. Similarly, cole crops are all varieties of a single species, Brassica oleracea. Cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, cabbage, turnips, collard and bok choy will all cross with one another; therefore, growing only one variety at a time is recommended if you plan to save the seed.

Whatever your level of expertise, saving seeds can be a rewarding pursuit for gardeners of all ages. Try your hand at saving seeds from your garden bounty this summer and enjoy the fruits of your labor for many more years to come.

For more information on saving seeds of all types, consult The Complete Guide to Saving Seeds by R. E. Gough and C. Moore-Gough, Seedsavers Exchange at www.seedsavers.org, your local seed lending library, or Beginner's Guide to Seed Saving” by Paul McCollum, UC Master Gardener of Monterey Bay.

The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.

Most gardeners are aware of plant diseases that can wreak havoc in their gardens. If you grow fruit trees, you may be confronted with curled, reddened peach leaves (peach leaf curl fungus). If you grow apples or pears, your trees may sometimes look like they were scorched with a blow torch (fire blight bacterium). But did you know that viruses can also lurk in the leaves, stems, and fruit of your garden vegetables and flowers? A virus infection can reduce a plant's growth, lower its yield, and/or result in inferior fruit, vegetables, or flowers.

Viruses are often very host specific. No plant viruses are known to affect humans, so feel at ease in your garden when dealing with them. They consist of genetic material (DNA or RNA) surrounded by a coat of proteins. They require a host in order to replicate and have a high rate of mutation and are so small they cannot be seen with a light microscope.

Viruses attach to cells, penetrate, uncoat, replicate, assemble, and then are released. The time between initial introduction and systemic plant infection varies from a few days to a few weeks. Transmission to other plants completes a virus's life cycle.

History

The first plant virus to be discovered was found on the leaves of tobacco plants in the late 19^th century. Researchers found that sap from infected tobacco leaves caused green and yellow mottling (“mosaic”) symptoms in healthy plants. Unlike bacteria, this virus could not be filtered out, but boiling the sap destroyed the infectiousness. Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV), the first plant virus discovered, remains one of the most common plant viruses. It attacks not just tobacco but also other members of the nightshade family (Solanaceae), including eggplant, cucumber, pepper, potato, tomato, petunia, snapdragon, delphinium, and marigold.

Virus Transmission

Transfer of virus-infested sap may occur during agricultural practices (through damage caused by tools or hands) or naturally (by an animal feeding on the plant). Plant viruses can also be transmitted by insects, nematodes, fungi, and through pollen, seed, or vegetative propagation from infected parent plants.

Insect vectored viruses can only be transmitted when the insect vector feeds on an infected plant and then feeds on a healthy plant. Insect transmission occurs in one of three ways: non-persistent, semi-persistent or persistent. In non-persistent transmission, a virus attaches to the distal tip of insect mouth parts and inoculates the next plant the insect feeds on. In semi-persistent viral transmission, the virus enters the foregut of the insect and can be transmitted to many plants. Viruses that pass into insect blood and then to the salivary glands are known as persistent, and these may be propagative or circulative. Propagative viruses replicate in both the plant and insect, whereas circulative viruses cannot propagate in the insect. Most viruses are actively transmitted to healthy plants in a matter of seconds, hours, or days by their vectors. Vectors (most often insects) can be very specific, often only transmitting one type of virus.

There are many, many plant viruses that collectively have the potential to infect virtually all species of plants. Fortunately, host ranges of individual viruses vary from very narrow to very broad. Plants can prevent viral infection through either passive or active defenses. In passive defenses, some plants simply don't produce one or more of the factors required for a particular virus to reproduce and spread within that species. Active defenses detect and destroy or wall off virus-infected cells by the action of resistant genes in the plant.

Virus Symptoms

Viruses typically spread throughout the whole plant and cause a systemic infection. A plant's response to infection can range from completely symptomless to severe disease and plant death, depending on the host and the particular virus.

Typical leaf symptoms of a plant virus include mosaic patterns, chlorotic (yellow) or necrotic (brown) lesions, yellowing, stripes or streaks, vein clearing (becoming translucent), vein banding (where bands of a lighter or darker color occur alongside veins), and leaf rolling and curling. Flower symptoms include deformation and changes in the color and pattern of the flowers. Fruit and vegetable symptoms may include mosaic patterns, stunting, discoloration or malformation, and chlorotic ringspots. Stems may develop stem pitting and grooving or tumors in response to virus infection.

Disease Management

Understanding a virus disease is the first step. Consult the UC IPM website to help identify virus disease possibilities that might infect the plant species of concern. There is no cure for a virus disease once a plant is infected. Prevention or reducing spread between plants is the only possibility. Some viruses are spread by aphids and other insects that suck plant juices so controlling them on vegetables can be helpful.

Herbaceous ornamentals and certain vegetables are generally more susceptible to serious injury or death from viruses, especially when plants are young. Prevention includes using certified virus-free seed or plant material and elimination of virus reservoirs in surrounding vegetation. Grow virus resistant cultivars when available. Provide proper cultural care to improve plant vigor. Management depends on how a virus enters the plant, how it is transmitted between plants, and where it survives when susceptible vegetables are not present. Dig out and destroy virus-infected plants.

Tobacco mosaic virus (TMV) is also known as tomato mosaic virus. It commonly appears at this time of year. TMV infects a plant by entering a break in the cell walls caused by insects or other physical damage. Leaves infected with this virus become mottled with yellow and green spots. The dark green spots often appear thicker and somewhat raised, giving the leaves a blister-like appearance. Mottled areas may turn brown and wither. Plants infected with TMV may be stunted and produce very little fruit.

To manage TMV, remove and destroy any symptomatic plants. Avoid use of tobacco around tomato plants. Use only certified virus-free seed. Sanitation is the single most recommended practice to control TMV, because transmission of the virus from plant to plant usually occurs from contaminated tools or hands. The most common sources of infection are the debris of infected plants that remains in the soil. After removing diseased plants, wash your hands and decontaminate tools. Surface sterilize seeds with bleach before planting. There are no chemical sprays that will prevent, control or eradicate viruses.

Viruses rarely kill woody plants but may alter their appearance with line patterns or ring spots on their leaves. When available, planting certified virus-free stock is the best approach. Rose mosaic virus, is a common example that often has clear visual symptoms in the leaves, especially in cool spring weather. Controlling insects is not an effective method of preventing virus infection in woody ornamentals since low densities of pests can spread viruses throughout the life of perennial shrubs and trees. Virus infected ornamentals should be removed if severe stunting compromises the value of the plant in the landscape. Locally, many very productive almond orchards continue to be hosts of a mild plant virus. There is some debate in the commercial nursery industry as to whether or not this needs to be addressed with certified virus clean stock when trees are propagated for new orchards.

Several other viruses that affect garden plants and vegetables will be discussed in the next Real Dirt column.

The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, call the Hotline at (530) 538-7201 or email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.

 A virus can reduce a plant's growth, lower its yield, and result in inferior fruit, vegetables and flowers. Viruses are often very host specific. Recognizing symptoms can help you take appropriate action, where possible, to manage a virus and hopefully prevent its spread. The following are several viruses that can plague the home garden.

Mosaic Viruses

Viruses of this type can be identified by green and yellow mottling (“mosaic”) symptoms. In addition to the common Tomato Mosaic Virus (TMV) discussed in the previous article, mosaic viruses can affect cucumber, cauliflowers and lettuces. Choose resistant plants when available for your garden. Mosaic viruses are mostly spread by insects, especially aphids and leafhoppers. Try covering your plants with a floating row cover or use aluminum foil mulches to prevent these insects from infecting your plants. Some types of weeds may serve as hosts of the virus, so controlling weeds may be a deterrent.

Cucumber Mosaic Virus (CMV) is one of the most common mosaic viruses. It is usually spread by aphids. It was first found on cucumbers, hence its name; but it can affect many other woody and herbaceous plants, including tomato, melon, and squash. Symptoms include leaves mottled with yellow and/or light and dark green spots or streaks. Young plants may have twisted leaves and become stunted.

Tomato plants infected with CMV are stunted and exhibit “shoestring syndrome,” in which the edges of the leaves fail to develop. Leaf veins appear as long, narrow strips. Tomatoes are small and misshapen, and yield is reduced.

Once plants are infected with CMV, there is no control. Remove and destroy all the infected plants. Disinfect gardening tools that have come into contact with infected plants.

Cauliflower Mosaic Virus (CaMV) primarily infects plants such as cabbage, brussels sprouts, cauliflower, broccoli, rape seed and turnip. It is transmitted in a non-circulatory manner by aphids, which can acquire this virus within one minute of feeding on an infected plant and can transmit the virus to a healthy plant just as quickly. Systemic symptoms include vein clearing – a condition in which the veins on a plant's leaves become translucent. Later, a striking mosaic pattern may develop. Plants can be stunted, and infected cabbage heads develop internal brown flecks and spots when stored in the refrigerator.

Temperatures between 61 and 68 degrees favor symptom expression in plants. CaMV is often found as a mixed infection along with Turnip Mosaic Virus, resulting in more severe symptoms than when either virus is present alone.

Eradicate cruciferous weed hosts (such as wild mustard, wild radish and wintercress) and incorporate crop debris immediately after harvest.

Lettuce Mosaic Virus (LMV) is spread by aphids and infected seeds. It is seedborne in lettuce and can infect numerous other crops and weeds. With this virus, the leaves of young plants become stunted and deformed and leaves may show a mosaic pattern.

Infected plants may reach full size, but the older outer leaves will be yellow, twisted, and otherwise deformed. On head lettuce, the plant may not form heads or the wrapper leaves may curve away from the head. Developing heads may be deformed or brown, necrotic black or brown flecks occur on the wrapper leaves.

Plant resistant lettuce varieties when available and use certified seed that has been tested for the virus. Control weeds to remove potential virus sources and destroy post-harvest residue from crucifers, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, and mustard.

Practice good aphid management. Control aphid-protecting ants, knock off aphids with a stream of water, or use a silver-reflective mulch to repel the aphids. Apply fertilizer only as necessary.

Beet Curly Top Virus (BCTV) is spread not by aphids, but by leafhoppers. This virus causes leaf curling and distortion, rigidity, stunting and eventual death in beets, Swiss chard, spinach, tomatoes, beans, peppers, cucumbers, squash and many other vegetables. Leaves may turn yellow with purple veins. Fruit may be deformed or fail to develop. The disease spreads by leafhoppers in a random fashion.

To determine the difference between wilting from lack of water and wilting from curly top virus, soak the soil around plants in the early evening. If the plant doesn't revive overnight, it's likely the plant has Curly Top Virus.

There is no cure or chemical control for curly top. Shade cloth can be placed over plants using stakes to discourage leafhoppers and to help tomato and pepper plants grow better and produce more fruit during the hottest summer months. Remove and destroy diseased plants.

Viruses that affect ornamental plants

Some viruses have actually been encouraged for their aesthetic effect on flowers or leaves. The most famous example of this is the Tulip Breaking Virus which can create flame patterns on tulip flowers and led to the speculative market in tulip bulbs that gripped much of Dutch society in the early 17^th century. Today, “broken” tulips with patterns on the flowers are the result of breeding, not viral infection.

There is a virus that affects Abutilon spp. (flowering “maple” or Indian mallow) and is considered desirable. Abutilon Mosaic Virus (AMV)is transmitted by infected sap moved on cutting tools and through grafting. This virus causes yellow to whitish blotches on leaves. It causes no apparent harm and propagators select infected plants to sell.

Much less attractive and desirable is the Rose Mosaic Virus Complex (RMVc), which is one of the most widespread rose diseases in the United States. This virus may be a complex of more than one pathogen. Symptoms in leaves include yellow line banding in a zigzag or “oak leaf” pattern, mosaic, and watermarking (characterized by faint yellow swirls or squiggles). In vein banding, the veins are yellow, and the leaf is green. This virus may also cause distorted or stunted blooms.

Symptoms of Rose Mosaic Virus are more pronounced in spring and fall. In summer heat, growth appears normal and the virus seems to disappear. A plant may be several years old before showing any symptoms. Damage can range from mild and easily overlooked to seriously stunting. Virus-infected plants may grow more slowly, produce delayed or fewer flowers, and become more susceptible to frost damage.

No rose is immune to these viruses. They spread through grafts and circulate through the plant. They are not spread by insects or pruning tools, but infect through budding, grafting, or rooting cuttings from infected plants. A rose can be symptomless until growing in the landscape; once infected it remains infected throughout its lifespan. Pruning is ineffective because the virus is spread throughout the plant. Replace infected roses if their performance is unsatisfactory. Purchase roses that have been tested and certified to be virus free.

The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, call the Hotline at (530) 538-7201 or email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.