We often experience ants in our homes when weather conditions change. They are typically looking for food, water, warmth, and/or protection from extreme weather conditions. Ants belong to the insect order Hymenoptera and are close relatives of bees and wasps. The most common outdoor ant found in California is the Argentine worker ant. The Argentine worker ant is approximately 3mm long, dark colored and does not sting. They have no natural enemies. Their colonies have multiple queens and only the queens lay eggs. An ant's life cycle moves from egg to larva to pupa to adult. Their nests are normally found in moist soils, under debris or along sidewalks and driveways. Argentine ants are drawn to sweet foods but will also feed on protein (e.g. dead bugs). The Argentine ant will venture up to 100 feet away from the nest to find food, water and shelter inside buildings. Once inside, if ants find food, they will continue to invade until the food source is removed and/or the entryway sealed.
Minor Indoor Problem (small trail of ants observed infrequently). Prevent further intrusion by:
1) Identifying the location where the ants are getting into the house. Inspect baseboards, floors, electrical outlets, vents, pipes, drains and walls for any entryways and seal them off (caulk is good for this). Destroy any nesting sites found close to the house. Cut back trees, shrubs or wooded material touching the house and clear away mulch or debris that is next to the house.
2) Clean up food and water sources in the home. All sources of “attractive” food should be removed or securely sealed. Use soapy water to kill ants and eliminate their trails.
Moderate (trails of hundreds of ants) and Severe (several hundred to thousands of ants continue to invade for weeks or months). Supplement steps 1 and 2 above with the addition of bait stations as follows:
Following the 3-step approach above should correct home ant invasions. For more information see the UC IPM Pest Notes on ants.
The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or call (530) 538-7201.
An astounding number of species populate the wild buckwheat genus Eriogonum - over 250, according to the CALFLORA website. And, due to their propensity to hybridize, active speciation continues as we speak. There are species for almost every letter of the alphabet, from A (E. abertianum) to Z (E. zionis).
But first, let's address a common question: do the wild buckwheats native to North America supply the gluten-free buckwheat flour used in pancakes and other baked goods? The answer is no. Although young stems and leaves from our wild buckwheats were eaten by Native Americans, the buckwheat flour we bake with today is a product of the cultivated European common buckwheat, Fagopyrum esculentum. Both genera are in the same family, Polygonaceae. To further complicate matters, another plant in that family, Fallopia convolvulus or black-bindweed, is also called wild buckwheat. This is where taxonomic nomenclature is so very helpful in plant identification, if not always user friendly.
Not content to just colonize tough niches in our state, wild buckwheats provide crucial late summer food for pollinators. They continue to flower after other natives have become dormant to protect themselves from drought and heat. Jewell observes that buckwheats “reliably attract a whole symphony of pollinators including native bees, wasps, flies, butterflies, beetles, and birds.”
St. Catherine's Lace is one of the many buckwheat species that provide food to a wide variety of pollinators; it is also a beautiful landscape plant, especially for larger spaces. Its species name, giganteum, reveals its claim to fame; this is the largest of all the wild buckwheats, with the ability to grow up to ten feet high and wide. It prefers fast-draining rocky soil but will tolerate heavier clay soils if seldom watered and can also handle alkaline conditions. Although this species is native to California's Channel Islands, it easily adapts to summer temperatures in the Valley, and will withstand winter lows of 15 to 25 degrees F.
Depending on conditions, St. Catherine's lace can flower from May through August (one source claims it can bloom until December!). The bloom consists of large, dense, flat clusters made up of many small white or pinkish flowers which turn reddish-brown later in the season. The abundant flowers attract a variety of pollinators, including native bees, pollinator flies, wasps, and several species of butterflies. St. Catherine's Lace is what is known as a “honey plant” which means that honeybees collect its nectar for making honey. Finches and other migratory birds feast on its seeds in the fall. And large mature plants offer sheltering habitat to birds and lizards.
Endemic to the Channel Islands of Southern California, St. Catherine's Lace naturally populates Coastal sage and chaparral ecoregions. Three distinct species have developed on three of the eight Channel Islands: Santa Barbara Island buckwheat (var. compactum); San Clemente Island buckwheat (var. formosum); and Santa Catalina Island buckwheat (var. giganteum).
Each of the 256species in the genus Eriogonum offers its own version of habitat value and native beauty. Visit the CALFLORA website to view detailed photos of each of the wild buckwheats and decide which is your favorite.
Jennifer Jewell, “Beneficial Buckwheats,” Pacific Horticulture Newsletter, April 2013
The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, call the Hotline at (530) 538-7201 or email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.
Is there an area in your garden where you are battling noxious weeds or other invasive plants? If so, soil solarization is a solution that avoids the use of herbicides and saves you from the on-going work of pulling up the invaders. Our hot summer months are the ideal time to employ this method.
Solarization most effectively controls soil-borne fungal and bacterial plant pathogens such as those causing Phytophthora root rot, Southern blight, Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt, damping off, crown gall, tomato canker and potato scab.
Nematodes can be controlled but not completely eliminated by solarization, because they are mobile and can move through the soil. Control is most effective in the top 12 inches of soil.
While solarization kills many soil pests, beneficial soil organisms either survive or recolonize the soil rather quickly. Earthworms can retreat to lower depths. Beneficial fungi such as mycorrhizal fungi and bacteria that parasitize plant pathogens quickly reestablish themselves.
Solarization is most effective when days are long, temperatures are hot, skies are clear, and winds are mild. June to August is therefore the most effective time in the Central Valley. Prepare the soil by removing weeds, rocks or other debris. Break up dirt clods and create a smooth soil surface.
Use clear plastic to snugly cover the smooth soil surface. Lay the plastic as close as possible to the soil surface so there are few air pockets. Thin clear plastic (1 millimeter) provides the greatest heating potential but is more susceptible to tearing. Slightly heavier plastic (1.5 to 4 millimeters) may be best. The type of drop cloths used in painting work well. The plastic sheeting should be slightly bigger than the area to be solarized. Dig a trench around the area. Cover one edge of the plastic with soil to hold it down. Pull the plastic tight across the soil and bury the opposite edge. Do the same with all sides. Keep the plastic as close to the soil surface as possible.
The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, call the Hotline at (530) 538-7201 or email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.
- Author: Laura Lukes
If you seek a peaceful place to explore nature and local history on foot or by bicycle, it may be time to explore Verbena Fields. This 20-acre site was historically a floodplain for Lindo Channel and later became used as a gravel mine for road construction.
The area was restored in partnership with state and local agencies, including the California Water Resources Board (a major funder), the CSU, Chico Research Foundation, Big Chico Creek Watershed Alliance, Streaminders, and the Mechoopda tribe. The restoration plan included input from neighbors, along with experts in wetland restoration, urban runoff mitigation, native plants, and local fauna. Together, these entities transformed a pile of rocks, broken asphalt, and noxious weeds into a natural refuge for humans, animals, and plants.
A wide, level path of crushed gravel (handicap accessible and suitable for small children and strollers) meanders along the perimeter of Verbena Fields. A second path bisects the site approximately at its midsection. We enter at the southwest corner, where Verbena Lane and East First Avenue intersect. Signage lets you know that your dog is welcome, on a leash, and at this corner there is a drinking fountain and a dog bag dispenser. To the left, a level strip of small trees, shrubs, and wildflowers borders the backyard fences that make up the western boundary of the site. To the right, desire lines (informal paths) lead from level ground to the Mechoopda Gathering Circle, a lowland area that features a beautiful tile mosaic depicting aspects of tribal life.
To the right is the open grassy area that comprises the bulk of the site and surrounds the wetland expansion portion of the project. The bisecting trail runs through the lupine and poppy (and also star thistle) that grow among the grasses. This middle trail affords access to a heavily shaded grove in which someone has fashioned a 10 to 12-foot- tall teepee from lumber scraps. An old rug has been placed inside, and it looks like a peaceful place to meditate, or the perfect place to play a game of fort.
Springtime at Verbena Fields is particularly beautiful: grasses are green and supple, redbuds, poppies, and lupines combine to make a palette of bright color, and fresh leaves bud from the limbs of the deciduous trees. Summer is dryer and crisper, but the shady groves of large trees and the low-lying cool spots offer respite from the heat. Fall brings the changing of colors when the grasses mellow to shades of heather, and in winter (if we are lucky with the rains) one can appreciate the value of the bioswales and wetlands features, as well as the view of the foothills to the east.
Whatever the season, Verbena Fields is a delightful place to visit. Just follow East First Avenue eastward, away from the busy bustle of traffic, to find it.
A virus can reduce a plant's growth, lower its yield, and result in inferior fruit, vegetables and flowers. Viruses are often very host specific. Recognizing symptoms can help you take appropriate action, where possible, to manage a virus and hopefully prevent its spread. The following are several viruses that can plague the home garden.
Viruses of this type can be identified by green and yellow mottling (“mosaic”) symptoms. In addition to the common Tomato Mosaic Virus (TMV) discussed in the previous article, mosaic viruses can affect cucumber, cauliflowers and lettuces. Choose resistant plants when available for your garden. Mosaic viruses are mostly spread by insects, especially aphids and leafhoppers. Try covering your plants with a floating row cover or use aluminum foil mulches to prevent these insects from infecting your plants. Some types of weeds may serve as hosts of the virus, so controlling weeds may be a deterrent.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus (CMV) is one of the most common mosaic viruses. It is usually spread by aphids. It was first found on cucumbers, hence its name; but it can affect many other woody and herbaceous plants, including tomato, melon, and squash. Symptoms include leaves mottled with yellow and/or light and dark green spots or streaks. Young plants may have twisted leaves and become stunted.
Tomato plants infected with CMV are stunted and exhibit “shoestring syndrome,” in which the edges of the leaves fail to develop. Leaf veins appear as long, narrow strips. Tomatoes are small and misshapen, and yield is reduced.
Once plants are infected with CMV, there is no control. Remove and destroy all the infected plants. Disinfect gardening tools that have come into contact with infected plants.
Cauliflower Mosaic Virus (CaMV) primarily infects plants such as cabbage, brussels sprouts, cauliflower, broccoli, rape seed and turnip. It is transmitted in a non-circulatory manner by aphids, which can acquire this virus within one minute of feeding on an infected plant and can transmit the virus to a healthy plant just as quickly. Systemic symptoms include vein clearing – a condition in which the veins on a plant's leaves become translucent. Later, a striking mosaic pattern may develop. Plants can be stunted, and infected cabbage heads develop internal brown flecks and spots when stored in the refrigerator.
Temperatures between 61 and 68 degrees favor symptom expression in plants. CaMV is often found as a mixed infection along with Turnip Mosaic Virus, resulting in more severe symptoms than when either virus is present alone.
Eradicate cruciferous weed hosts (such as wild mustard, wild radish and wintercress) and incorporate crop debris immediately after harvest.
Infected plants may reach full size, but the older outer leaves will be yellow, twisted, and otherwise deformed. On head lettuce, the plant may not form heads or the wrapper leaves may curve away from the head. Developing heads may be deformed or brown, necrotic black or brown flecks occur on the wrapper leaves.
Plant resistant lettuce varieties when available and use certified seed that has been tested for the virus. Control weeds to remove potential virus sources and destroy post-harvest residue from crucifers, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, and mustard.
Practice good aphid management. Control aphid-protecting ants, knock off aphids with a stream of water, or use a silver-reflective mulch to repel the aphids. Apply fertilizer only as necessary.
To determine the difference between wilting from lack of water and wilting from curly top virus, soak the soil around plants in the early evening. If the plant doesn't revive overnight, it's likely the plant has Curly Top Virus.
There is no cure or chemical control for curly top. Shade cloth can be placed over plants using stakes to discourage leafhoppers and to help tomato and pepper plants grow better and produce more fruit during the hottest summer months. Remove and destroy diseased plants.
Viruses that affect ornamental plants
Some viruses have actually been encouraged for their aesthetic effect on flowers or leaves. The most famous example of this is the Tulip Breaking Virus which can create flame patterns on tulip flowers and led to the speculative market in tulip bulbs that gripped much of Dutch society in the early 17th century. Today, “broken” tulips with patterns on the flowers are the result of breeding, not viral infection.
There is a virus that affects Abutilon spp. (flowering “maple” or Indian mallow) and is considered desirable. Abutilon Mosaic Virus (AMV)is transmitted by infected sap moved on cutting tools and through grafting. This virus causes yellow to whitish blotches on leaves. It causes no apparent harm and propagators select infected plants to sell.
Much less attractive and desirable is the Rose Mosaic Virus Complex (RMVc), which is one of the most widespread rose diseases in the United States. This virus may be a complex of more than one pathogen. Symptoms in leaves include yellow line banding in a zigzag or “oak leaf” pattern, mosaic, and watermarking (characterized by faint yellow swirls or squiggles). In vein banding, the veins are yellow, and the leaf is green. This virus may also cause distorted or stunted blooms.
Symptoms of Rose Mosaic Virus are more pronounced in spring and fall. In summer heat, growth appears normal and the virus seems to disappear. A plant may be several years old before showing any symptoms. Damage can range from mild and easily overlooked to seriously stunting. Virus-infected plants may grow more slowly, produce delayed or fewer flowers, and become more susceptible to frost damage.
The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, call the Hotline at (530) 538-7201 or email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.