- Author: Jim Farr
(Editor Note: This blog first appeared in August, 2021 - it has been slightly modified for our current heat wave in July 2024)
This current July heat wave may have stressed your irrigation effectiveness and made you question your landscape plant selection. Even in this type of heat, being water-smart is a good strategy and we have tips that you can begin using today.
According to a University of California Report, residential landscape irrigation is estimated to account for about 50% of annual residential water consumption in California. While that amount varies widely from about 30% in many coastal communities to 60% or more in various inland suburban communities, bottom line, that is a lot of water.
So what can you do right now to save water and make a difference? You might be surprised by the steps you can take immediately that do not take much time or cost and will make a noticeable difference in your water usage. These steps apply to container gardening as well as in-ground landscaping. Some references specific to container gardening are given at the end of the article.
Where to Begin Saving Water In Your Garden
Tip One: Find Out How Much Water Your Landscape is Using
This will give you a benchmark to measure the impact of your water-saving efforts which will help encourage and motivate you as you see the things you are doing are really making a difference.
Measuring your landscape water usage can be a little difficult but there are ways to do it without spending a lot of time with paper and pencil.
If your city subscribes to Aquahawk your task is simple. Aquahawk is an online tool that can measure real-time water usage and makes figuring out your water usage as simple as logging in with your id and password. Unfortunately, only a handful of cities (mostly in the Tri-Valley) have access to Aquahawk.
If you don't have Aquahawk, then another way to estimate water usage is to pull up your water bills (hard copy or get online) and review your historic water usage. Assuming your landscape watering is minimal in winter, compare average water use in winter with average water use in the summer months. Given that other habits remain relatively constant, like washing dishes, laundry, showers, toilet flushes etc. then the difference will be primarily the water you are using for your landscape.
The Center for Landscape and Horticulture offer several online water calculators but these can be a little daunting to work through.
Now that you know your water usage, let's see how you can start to save water.
Tip Two: Mulch, Mulch, Mulch
This cannot be emphasized enough. Mulching has been described as the gardener's best friend and this is not an exaggeration. Imagine being able to minimize water usage by helping to slow down evaporation, reduce maintenance and weeds. In addition, cool the temperature of the soil and improve soil quality and fertility and even improve the look of your landscape! This is the magic of mulch. Mulching works for soils in raised beds and containers too.
What is mulch? Mulch is any material that is put on the surface of the soil to prevent water evaporation. Typically it may be straw or alfalfa pellets, wood chips, barks or hulls, or organic yard waste such as leaves or grass clippings. Mulch can be obtained free from your yard by using leaves or grass clippings or purchased at any home garden store or nursery.
You can learn more about types of mulch from the Master Gardeners of Sonoma County. Here is a website that will give you everything you need to know to start mulching:
To be effective, pile mulch six to eight inches deep, tapering down to three inches deep near the stems or crowns of plants. Mulch should not touch the stems of plants but should be approximately 10 inches away.
Tip Three: Composting
While you are mulching, consider adding compost to the soil or your containers. Compost is essentially organic mulches that have broken down to the point where plants can uptake the nutrients. Composts are typically worked into the soil unlike mulches which are layered on top. Besides improving the quality of the soil, compost acts like a slow release fertilizer. This will minimize the amount of extra fertilizer you use saving both money and water because over fertilizing plants causes excessive growth which uses more water. Additionally, compost helps to retain water especially in sandy soils where there is very little retention of water.
Tip Four: Check Your Irrigation System
Another extremely important step in saving water and eliminating waste is to turn on your landscaping watering system and observe. Check for broken lines and drip emitters and if you are watering grass check that the sprayers are functioning and spraying where they are supposed to.
While you are checking irrigation sprayers and lines, see if any water goes onto the sidewalk and down the gutter. Water down the gutter is water wasted. If necessary adjust your sprayers and irrigation timers to avoid any runoff.
Tip Five: Adjust Irrigation Times
Another step that takes only a few minutes but can make a significant difference is to set irrigation timers to water only between the hours of 9 pm to 6 am. This will minimize evaporation from the daytime heat and will utilize the irrigation water much more efficiently.
When you do this, consider adjusting your run time down some. If you have been watering outside of these hours chances are very good that you will be able to shorten your run times for each station on the timer. Water dedicated to landscape can often be reduced by 20 to 40 percent because over irrigation is very common. Gradually reduce the amount of water applied over a few weeks - giving lawns, trees and plants time to adjust.
To measure if you are applying enough water, the surface of the soil should be dry between watering but slightly moist about 2 inches down. Use the finger test, put your finger in the soil down to the second knuckle and if the soil feels slightly moist but not damp and a little bit of the soil sticks to your finger, then you are applying the right amount of water.
Many people overwater their landscaping so cutting back may actually improve the health of your plants. The signs of overwatering or under-watering are similar so checking the soil is the best indicator of whether your plants are being over or under-watered.
Step Six: Consider Using Cycling and Soaking Settings on Your Irrigation Timer
Step Seven: Check Your Irrigation Frequently
After the initial check of the irrigation system, it is a good idea to check the system occasionally looking for any water that is going down the gutter or hitting the sidewalk. Sometimes water pressure changes slightly or sprayers get a little clogged and water goes where it is not intended even though they were fine a few weeks prior.
Step Eight: Consider Planting Drought-Tolerant Plants
Drought-tolerant plants are sometimes misunderstood, “drought tolerant” doesn't mean they look like desert plants but many drought-tolerant plants have a surprising amount of color, pleasant fragrance, attract beneficial insects, and some are even deer resistant. Remember to plant drought-tolerant plants in late Fall so they can take advantage of the winter rains. All new plants require more water to get established, even drought-tolerant plants.
There are a number of great resources for identifying drought-tolerant plants. Below are a few resources that are available by just a click away. One of my favorites is the Alameda County Outstanding Plant brochures which are available online.
I find these particularly helpful because the plants are narrowed down to the plants that are proven to grow well in Alameda County, most are drought-tolerant and are readily available at local nurseries. Because these are nice, compact lists of plants that fit onto one piece of paper, you can easily take them to a nursery and use them as a guide for choosing plants. Keep a copy in your car and you will never forget to bring the list to the garden store.
These are steps you can take right now that will save water and lower your watering bill without affecting the health of your plants. Most of these steps can be completed in under an hour and a few others can be a nice weekend project, such as mulching your garden. So start saving water now and you will be doing yourself and the state of California a very big favor!
Water Saving Tips References
Water Calculators
Water Use Research
University of California Urban Water Use Study
Drought-Tolerant Plant Selection
- Outstanding Plants for Alameda County
- UC Davis Arboretum All-Stars
- EBMUD Water Smart Plants
- Water Use Classification of Landscaping Species (WUCOLS) – Very comprehensive database with a great searching tool
Water Wise Tips for Container Gardens
- Self-Watering Containers - University of Maryland Extension
- Growing Vegetables in Containers - Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County (pdf document)
- Container Gardening 101 - Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County (pdf document)
Have a gardening question? We'll help. You can reach us by:
- Emailing acmg@ucanr.edu. Please include a photo of the problem, if you can, plus your name, phone number, city and a description of the problem.
- Using our online form.
- By phone, during our office hours, 10 am to noon Wednesday and 11 am to 1 pm Thursday: 510-670-5645. At other times, please leave a message and we'll return your call during our office hours.
- In person at our Hayward office, during our office hours, only by appointment.
- Author: Jim Farr
Summer is a wonderful time for vegetable gardens, with plants thriving under the warm sun. However, it's also the peak season for pests, which can threaten your hard-earned harvest. Here's a guide to help you effectively identify, prevent, and manage common summer vegetable garden pests with safe, organic methods.
Some Basic Principles for Dealing with Summer Pests:
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Pests Are Natural: Don't get overly concerned because you see insects and other pests in your garden. They are a natural part of having a garden and cannot be avoided. Your garden is a buffet for bugs but the approaches below will help you minimize the damage they might do.
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Pests Have Specific Plant Favorites: Pests tend to be specific about the plants they eat. Knowing the affected plant narrows down considerably the possible pests.
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Most Common Pests Have Safe, Natural Solutions: For most pests, there is a safe solution to getting rid of it.
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Look for Pest Infestations After Changes in Weather: When the temperature changes suddenly from cool to warm or we get prolonged dry periods, insects often come out in high numbers, especially ants.
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Avoid Untested Information and Home Formulas From the Internet: Rely on trusted research-based sources like information from the University of California Integrated Pest Management (IPM) and Master Gardener websites.
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Always Follow Label Instructions On Any Product You Use: First, check that the product will work on the particular target and then follow all mixing instructions exactly. More IS NOT better.
A Systematic, Science-Based Method for Dealing with Pests: Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
In 1979 the Statewide IPM program was established at the University of California to provide a research-based foundation for pest management for both commercial and home gardens. The key steps are outlined below:
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Identify pests, their hosts and beneficial organisms before taking action. Finding the right solution depends on identifying the right target. Identifying the pest and applying the right solution will give you the best chance of mitigating or eliminating the pest.
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Establish a damage threshold for the pest. What is acceptable damage and what is the point where the pest needs to be dealt with? Not all plant damage is bad. This is an important point. Every garden will have pests, sometimes the damage is minimal or inconsequential to the purpose of the plant. Damage to a leaf on a plant where you eat the fruit may not be an issue. Pesticides can damage the ecology of your garden by killing beneficial insects.
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Evaluate and implement control tactics. Apply the safest, best environmentally sound solutions first.
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Monitor, evaluate and document the results. Write down what solutions worked and what did not for future reference. Don't expect immediate results but monitor to see changes over time. Sometimes the pests return but in smaller numbers where they can be more easily managed.
Common Summer Garden Pests
Insect pest populations grow fast during the spring and summer with the oncoming heat. Plants should be monitored for insects and insect damage frequently throughout the spring and summer.
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Ants: extremely common, sometimes swarm after rain storms or in hot weather. The best treatment are borate (similar but not the same as borax) based baits. These are attractive to ants that take them to their nest where it eventually kills the colony.
- Aphids: aphids (color varies) are common on many warm-season vegetables. Ants, lady beetles (ladybugs) and honeydew (a sticky substance that aphids produce) are often signs that aphids are present. Hose them off plants or prune out infestations when necessary. Encourage their natural enemies by growing flowers in your vegetable garden area that attract beneficials. Aphids have many natural enemies: ladybugs and their larvae, lacewings, beetles, and parasitic wasps. Natural, insecticidal soaps such as Neem Oil can also be effective.
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Caterpillars: Most caterpillars such as cabbage moth larvae, hornworms, loopers, cut worms, army worms etc, all can be treated with BT (Bacillus thuringiensis), a non-pathogenic microbial mix that kills all types of caterpillars. Using a floating row cover garden bug netting reduces the need for pesticides. If you see moths around your vegetables remember, that's a sign you may see caterpillars soon. For larger caterpillars like tomato hornworms, the best management is to hand-pick. Note: caterpillars are a valuable food source for your backyard birds.
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Cucumber Beetles: a small (1/4”) beetle most commonly found on vegetables in the cabbage family. Easily identified by the distinctive dots or stripes on yellow-green wing coverings. They are large enough to remove by hand or if necessary use insecticidal soap on nymphs.
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Earwigs: common in just about every garden. Small populations may not be an issue. Eliminating the places they hide in moist, dark locations can help. If they start causing substantial damage, a safe, soil bacterial-based mixture with Spinosad can be used. However, if you see the presence of beneficial insects around your plants do not use Spinosad.
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Leaf Miner: easily identified by the random white tracks on the leaves of vegetable plants. The tracks get wider towards the end of the tracks. Watch for damage on leaves throughout the growing season. Brush off eggs from the back of leaves. Remove affected leaves. No spraying is necessary or advisable. The best solution is to catch this early and remove affected leaves which greatly reduces the future damage by eliminating growing larvae in the leaves.
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Snails & Slugs: eliminate hiding places, hand pick and destroy. Iron-based pesticides are very effective, and provide the added benefit of providing iron to the plant. Tip: snails hide during the day and can be found often hiding in leafy greens such as swiss chard for example. Most likely you will not see slugs and snails during the day.
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Squirrels, rats and birds: vertebrate pests are best managed by methods that exclude them from the garden. Cover seeded areas and young plants with floating row cover (sometimes referred to as agricultural cloth) or make cages out of netting. Large netting will hurt birds - use finer netting to reduce injury to birds. Plants that are very attractive to pests may need to be protected through the season.
Some Useful Prevention Tips for Insects and Diseases:
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Healthy Soil: Start with healthy, well-draining soil. Healthy plants are less susceptible to pests. Add organic matter to improve soil structure and fertility.
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Crop Rotation: Rotate your crops each year as space allows to prevent pests, soil bacteria and viruses from becoming established in one area.
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Proper Watering: Water early in the morning to allow foliage to dry before evening; this reduces the risk of fungal diseases that attract pests.
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Mulching: Use mulch to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and help to prevent some pests from accessing your plants.
Some Common Organic Control Methods for Dealing with Insects:
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Handpicking: For larger pests like tomato hornworms and squash bugs, handpicking is an effective control method. Drop them into a bucket of soapy water.
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Neem Oil: This natural insecticide disrupts the life cycle of many pests. Spray it on affected plants, ensuring you cover both sides of the leaves until dripping wet..
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Insecticidal Soap: Effective against soft-bodied insects like aphids and spider mites. Spray it directly on the pests.
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BT (Bacillus thuringiensis): A safe, bacterial-based pesticide that targets a wide variety of leaf eating caterpillars. Read more about less toxic pesticides in this from the UC Integrated Pest Management Quick Tip online or as a downloadable pdf.
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Beneficial Insects: Encourage beneficial insects like lady beetles, lacewings, and parasitic wasps by planting a variety of flowering plants. These insects prey on common garden pests. When they are present they can be highly effective in controlling infestations.
Dealing with summer vegetable garden pests requires vigilance and a mix of preventive and active control measures. By maintaining a healthy garden environment, using organic methods, and regularly monitoring your plants, you can minimize pest damage and enjoy a bountiful harvest. Happy gardening!
Resources:
- University of California Integrated Pest Management (UC IPM) - Homepage
- UC IPM - Quick Tips Less Toxic Insecticides
- UC IPM - Natural Enemies Gallery
- UC IPM - Aphids Management
- Better Together - New Science of Companion Planting
Have a gardening question? We'll help. You can reach us by:
- Emailing acmg@ucanr.edu. Please include a photo of the problem, if you can, plus your name, phone number, city and a description of the problem.
- Using our online form.
- By phone, during our office hours, 10 am to noon Wednesday and 11 am to 1 pm Thursday: 510-670-5645. At other times, please leave a message and we'll return your call during our office hours.
- In person at our Hayward office, during our office hours, only by appointment.
- Author: James Farr
Soil testing is a helpful practice for gardeners aiming to achieve healthy plant growth and a bountiful harvest. Understanding the composition of your garden soil helps tailor gardening practices to meet the specific needs of your plants. This article provides an overview of laboratory soil testing, covering its importance, the key elements tested, how to collect a soil sample, and how to interpret the results.
Why Soil Testing is Important
Soil testing is valuable for several reasons:
- Nutrient Management: It provides detailed information about the nutrient content of the soil, enabling gardeners to apply the correct type and amount of fertilizer.
- pH Level Adjustment: Knowing the soil's pH level, which affects nutrient availability, allows gardeners to adjust it to the optimal range for their plants.
- Detecting Contaminants: Tests can reveal the presence of harmful contaminants like lead or other heavy metals, ensuring the safety of your garden produce.
- Cost Efficiency: By applying only the necessary fertilizers and amendments, gardeners can save money and prevent environmental pollution.
- Tailored Gardening Practices: Understanding soil health helps in making informed decisions, leading to better plant growth and yield.
- Troubleshoot Why Plants Aren't Thriving: If you've exhausted your attempts to amend soil with compost, a soil test can provide more detailed information to remedy the problem.
Key Elements Tested in Soil
A standard soil test can include analysis of the following elements:
- pH Level: Indicates the acidity or alkalinity of the soil.
- Macronutrients: Such as nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), which are crucial for plant growth.
- Micronutrients: Including elements like iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), and zinc (Zn), which plants need in smaller amounts.
- Organic Matter Content: Affects soil structure, nutrient availability, and water retention.
- Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC): Reflects the soil's ability to hold onto essential nutrients.
Collecting a Soil Sample
To obtain accurate soil test results, most labs will have specific instructions to follow. In general, These are the steps for collecting a soil sample:
- Choose the Right Time: The best time for soil sampling is when the soil is moist but not wet, typically in the spring or fall.
- Select the Area: If your garden has distinct areas with different crops, soil types, or problem spots, sample each area separately.
- Collect the Sample: Use a clean tool to take small amounts of soil from several spots within the sampling area. Mix these samples in a clean container to create a composite sample.
- Depth of Sampling: For lawns and gardens, a depth of 6-8 inches is appropriate. For trees and shrubs, sample at a depth of 6-12 inches.
Interpreting Soil Test Results
Soil test results will provide detailed information about the elements mentioned above. Here's how to interpret some of the key findings:
- pH Level: Most garden plants thrive in a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. Values outside this range may require the application of lime (to raise pH) or sulfur (to lower pH).
- Nutrient Levels: The report will indicate whether nutrient levels are low, medium, high, or excessive. Low or medium levels suggest the need for supplementation, while high or excessive levels mean you should cut back on those nutrients.
- Recommendations: Most soil tests come with recommendations for amendments and fertilizers. Follow these guidelines to adjust nutrient levels and pH accordingly.
Soil testing is a powerful tool that empowers gardeners to make informed decisions about managing their garden soil. By understanding the specific needs of your soil, you can optimize plant health, improve yields, and contribute to the sustainability of your gardening practices. Whether you are a hobbyist or a professional gardener, soil testing is a practice that yields long-term benefits for your garden and the environment.
This blog post is brought to you by the Help Desk of the Master Gardeners of Alameda County. Subscribe to our blog!
Resources
- Cornell Guide to Soil Testing: https://cwmi.css.cornell.edu/guidetosoil.pdf
- University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources – Soil Testing: https://ucanr.edu/sites/placernevadasmallfarms/files/142586.pdf
- UC Master Gardener Program of Alameda County: https://acmg.ucanr.edu/Over_the_Fence / Whats_In_Your_Soil/
- Soil 101: https://ucanr.edu/sites/soils/Soils_101/
- Soil Test Kits: https://ucanr.edu/sites/gardenweb/files/29075.pdf
- Evaluating and Testing Soil: https://marinmg.ucanr.edu/BASICS/SOIL_813/evaluate/
- Soil Health Testing: https://soilfertility.osu.edu/extension-and-outreach/soil-health-testing
Analytic Testing Laboratories for Home Gardeners
Soils, Water, Plants, Heavy Metals and More
- Contact the labs to confirm offered services, pricing and preferred procedures for sample collection.
- Testing labs vary in the types of available tests and recommendations they provide, if any. Be sure to ask for detailed information regarding tests, test fees and interpretation, and whether recommendations are included. Many of the websites provide supplemental information about tests and sampling.
- Resources regarding soils and soil testing:
A & L Western Laboratories, Inc. 1311 Woodland Avenue, Suite 1 Modesto, CA 95351 (209)529-4080 |
Test descriptions and fees available online.
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California Laboratory Services 3249 Fitgerald Road Rancho Cordova, CA 95742 (800) 638-7301 www.californialab.com |
Test descriptions and fees available online.
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Control Laboratories, Inc. 42 Hangar Way Watsonville, CA 95076 (831)724-5422 |
Test descriptions and fees available online under shipping info.
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Dellavalle Laboratory, Inc. 1910 W McKinley Ave., Ste. 110 Fresno, CA 93728 (800)228-9896 |
Test descriptions and fees available online. Call / email for fees.
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Fruit Growers Laboratory Inc 2500 Stagecoach Rd Stockton, CA 95215 (209) 942-0182 |
Test descriptions and fees available online.
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Harmony Farm Supply & Nursery 3244 Gravenstein Highway North Sebastapol, CA 95472 (707) 823-9125 |
Call for test availability, description and fees. https://www.harmonyfarm.com/services/
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Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply 125 Clydesdale Court Grass Valley, CA 95945 (888)784-1722 |
Test descriptions and fees online.
Videos of explanation of professional soil testing & results: https://www.groworganic.com/organic-gardening/videos/ Professional soil testing: |
Perry Laboratory 424 Airport Blvd Watsonville, CA 95076 (831)722-7606 |
Test descriptions and fees available online.
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Wallace Laboratories 365 Coral Circle El Segundo, CA 90245 (310)615-0116 |
In-depth explanations of test descriptions and fees available online: http://us.wlabs.com/services/
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Waypoint Analytical, Inc. (formerly Soil and Plant Lab) 4741 E Hunter Ave Ste A Anaheim, CA 92807 (714) 282-8777 |
Test descriptions and fees available online: Some videos: http://www.waypointanalytical.com/Videos
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Have a gardening question? We'll help. You can reach us by:
- Emailing acmg@ucanr.edu. Please include a photo of the problem, if you can, plus your name, phone number, city and a description of the problem.
- Using our online form.
- By phone, during our office hours, 10 am to noon Wednesday and 11 am to 1 pm Thursday: 510-670-5645. At other times, please leave a message and we'll return your call during our office hours.
- In person at our Hayward office, during our office hours, only by appointment.
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- Author: Erin Wright
No matter what you grow - trees, shrubs, flowers, veggies, turf areas - they all require some kind of irrigation in our Mediterranean climate. We had a good and late rainy season this year, so our plants were happy when the growing season kicked off and moisture ‘banks' were full. Dry and warm days are here, so now is a good time to test your sprinkler and irrigation systems to keep your garden happy and beautiful. Watering is one of the key cultural problems (culture in gardening means those activities involved in siting, selecting and caring for plants) master gardeners will ask about as they help to diagnose plant problems. Proper watering can keep some plant problems under control. Keeping ahead of irrigation problems by checking each sprinkler, drip head, or micro sprayer in your garden will ensure your plants receive the proper water to thrive and provide beauty, shade and food for your summer enjoyment.
Use this handy checklist and basic troubleshooting guide to check your watering system.
Warm Season Irrigation Checklist
Walk Your Garden
A visual inspection can help you identify problems with your irrigation system.
- Look for stunted or wilted plants that indicate a clogged or misaimed emitter or sprinkler.
- Turf areas will turn a dull gray color as they get too dry. Conduct a sprinkler/irrigation station test to reveal if there is enough water coverage for that spot. To test, turn on each irrigation station in sequence and observe the results.
- Check your plants for pests since plants suffering from under watering or over watering are more susceptible to pests and disease.
- Pay special attention to how much water is distributed during the station/zone test (see details below). Observe if all the plants are getting sufficient water, or if there is pooling under the plants or runoff onto the sidewalks
- Check any historic problem areas to ensure adequate irrigation coverage.
Irrigation Controls/Timers
If you have an automated sprinkler timer, here are the things to check as you head into the new growing season.
- If you turned off the system for the winter, turn the system back on.
- Replace the battery if your timer has one.
- Set the clock to the proper time and year.
- Check the timing for each valve and zone program
- Set time based on plant needs. You can find watering guidelines below in the Resources section.
- Set watering days and times of the week to match your water agency's watering guidelines/restrictions.
- Test each station/zone on your sprinkler timer (see below for troubleshooting repairs)
Sprinklers
Your station test from above should have helped you identify problems with your system.
- Replace broken sprinkler head “geysers” with a new sprinkler head. Most common sprinklers are easy to replace by untwisting the sprinkler from the riser (the part attached to underground piping) and replacing with the same type. Your sprinkler type may allow you to replace just the watering head. Check the manufacturer's website for full instructions.
- Use the same type of sprinkler in each zone. Not all popup sprinklers deliver the same volume.
- Use Teflon tape in the threads of the riser to ensure a leak-free seal.
- Adjust the sprinkler radius and spray pattern to get full coverage to reduce dry areas and water waste. You can find instructions for sprinkler adjustments on the sprinkler manufacturer's website as many offer instructional videos for the DIYer.
- Modern or smart sprinkler timers offer advanced settings to optimize how you water your garden. One feature, ‘cycle and soak' allows you to divide the total irrigation time into shorter intervals so the water has time to soak in. This setting is valuable for lawn areas as it promotes deep watering for root health. This also works well in sloped yards, raised beds, or heavy soils, preventing wasteful runoff. Even if your system doesn't have this feature, you can schedule several short consecutive watering times that provide the same effect.
Drip Systems
- Clean or replace clogged micro-spray heads.
- Adjust micro-spray head aim and coverage area. Squirrels, household pets and other garden visitors can knock them out of aim.
- Listen for weird squeaks, hums, whistles and gushing water noise that indicate a broken or missing drip emitter.
- Look for hard water buildup which can reduce water volume. Clean off or replace the emitter.
- Replace the broken emitter with an exact match.
- Join torn or broken drip pipes with connector pieces.
- Check that the supply tubing ends are closed to allow the system to build pressure.
- Adjust the drip system to deliver water where your plants need it now vs. when they were planted. Be sure to apply water to the entire root area. Mature plants may need another drip head or two added for adequate irrigation.
Add additional drip heads as needed for maturing landscape. Consult your irrigation design and manufacturer for the number of drip heads each zone can support. - Remove drip lines and heads in areas where they are no longer needed. It's easy to install a plug in the supply tubing.
Garden Hose and Watering Cans
If you water with a hose and watering can, don't let your trusty garden friends let you down when you most need them!
- Fully unreel your hose and inspect it for holes and cracks, smooth out hose kinks if you can and inspect bulging sides for failure. Repair or replace as needed.
- Replace hose rings at the faucet to get a tight drip-free fit.
- Replace hose rings in watering tools - wands, spray heads to keep the flow strong.
- Clean debris from watering can, inspect for holes, clogged spout and sprinkler head.
With this checklist, you have likely identified a few adjustments to your system before the temperatures soar. Continue to monitor your system for problems and make timely repairs for the best health of your garden and to avoid a surprisingly large water bill.
Resources
- Irrigating fruit and shade trees and shrubs
- Watering calculators from the Center for Landscape Urban Horticulture.
- UC Guide to Healthy Lawns
- Cultural tips for trees, shrubs and woody plants
- EBMUD Lawn and Landscape Watering Schedule (opens a pdf document)
Have a gardening question?
We'll help. You can reach us by:
- Emailing acmg@ucanr.edu. Please include a photo of the problem, if you can, plus your name, phone number, city and a description of the problem.
- Using our online form.
- By phone, during our office hours, 10 am to noon Wednesday and 11 am to 1 pm Thursday: 510-670-5645. At other times, please leave a message and we'll return your call during our office hours.
- In person at our Hayward office, during our office hours, only by appointment.
- Author: Judy Quan
Editor's Note: This blog post originally appeared on the Master Gardener Program of Alameda County website.
Thinking of planting a street tree?
Do you have space for a tree in the parking strip, that no man's land between the sidewalk and the street? If you do, there are many advantages to having trees grow in that space.
Why plant a tree?
- Trees are beautiful and welcoming. Trees have a calming and healing effect on people and community. They add value to the neighborhood.
- Trees help us to live with warming temperatures. Street trees, part of the landscape, help to reduce the effect of urban heat islands by providing cooling shade to sidewalks, buildings and other structures that capture heat.
- Trees fight climate change. Trees absorb and store carbon dioxide, also reducing greenhouse gas emissions to the atmosphere.
- Trees add to the natural habitat. They can provide habitat for birds, pollinators and other wildlife.
- Trees improve the local environment. They provide windbreaks, capture storm water runoff and muffle urban noise, among many other things.
“Unfortunately, their [street trees'] average lifespan in our cities is less than 1/4 of their potential due to poor selection and care.“ Janet Hartin, Environmental Horticulturist, UC Cooperative Extension, Trees for Tomorrow Start Today
Tips on Street Tree Selection
Gather information about the site (your parking strip)
- Check with the city. Find out whether the homeowner is allowed to plant a tree. In some cities, only the city can plant in the parking strips.
- Power lines? You need to determine whether the power lines are on your side of the street or not. If they are, then you are limited to small trees that are "ok" to plant under the high voltage lines.
- Width of parking strip? Then you will need to measure the width in inches of the parking strip where you are planning to plant your tree. Then you can compare your dimensions to those of the suitable tree basin width.
- Other considerations? Think about the type of soil you have, the availability of water, shade, proximity to buildings, and wind conditions.
Look around in your neighborhood to see what you like and don't like in street trees.
- Seeing a mature, full-grown specimen of a particular species of tree in your neighborhood is very different from seeing a photo of the tree on the internet. Often the in-person view will give you a really good feel for a tree's true appearance and it may also show you other aspects such as the amount of litter from flowers, seeds and leaves.
- Talk to your neighbors about the trees in your neighborhood.
- As you drive or walk around the city, look around at the street trees and take note of the ones that you like and where they are located.
- If your city has a public works department, parks department or an urban forester, you may be able to get help with the identification of the trees and may also get recommendations.
What trees are approved for street trees in your area?
- Many cities, but not all, have an approved list of street trees. These are the trees that are officially approved for planting in the parking strip. The list often has additional information as to how to select trees for a particular site.
- Many cities have an urban forester who manages the selection and care of tree populations in the urban setting. Often the forester may be part of public works or parks division of city programs. Sometimes there are programs that promote tree planting and financial incentives might be available.
- Local tree lists and planting information for some of the cities of Alameda County. Please contact your city hall or public works for information in your city.
Unincorporated communities of Ashland, Castro Valley, Cherryland, Fairview, San Lorenzo, and Sunol
What are the characteristics of the trees on your list?
- Research both the common name and the botanical name, so you will get more information on the tree including information on litter issues, root damage potential and mature size.
- Trees are either deciduous (lose their leaves in the fall) or evergreen (keep leaves/fronds/needles year-round). Just because a tree is evergreen, does not mean that you don't have leaf litter. Evergreen trees may drop some leaves more-or-less year around instead of the once-a-year leaf drop in the fall.
- Once you have narrowed your list down to a few trees, you might give the city a call and find out if there is information on where you can see that type of tree locally.
- Minimize potential damage to the sidewalk. To avoid or minimize sidewalk/curb damage/lifting, choose a smaller tree that fits your parking strip and be sure to water the tree appropriately.
Care of trees … things I wish I had known
Unfortunately street trees are sometimes not planted with the ideal tree selection/planting guidelines. Fortunately, many of these problems can be corrected if noticed early on, soon after the tree has been planted.
Here are some practical tree care tips from Janet Hartin, a UCCE horticulturalist.
Trees for Tomorrow Start Today
How to Avoid Common Ailments of Landscape Plants
You may find that you will use this information on care of trees directly if you end up planting your own tree, or you might find that you will use the information to make sure your tree is planted correctly by the city/contractor hired by the city.
4 Tips on Planting trees
- Plant the tree in native soil, with NO amendments or compost.
- The hole for the tree should be the same depth as its container and at least 2-1/2 times wider. Make sure that the flare of the crown is above ground. Remove the soil, gently place tree in hole, fill with original soil around the plant.
- Prevent circling and kinked tree roots. Straighten or cut off circling or kinked roots. Roots circle or become kinked when there is no space for roots to grow out, such as in containers or small plant holes or organic-filled plant holes. When holes are filled with organic material, roots may never grow beyond the boundaries of the original hole because the roots prefer the richer organic material.
- Check/remove the tree ties or stakes. Remove any tree ties that are too tight and cut into the tree trunk or branches. Tree ties should be loose enough so that your tree can sway with the wind. This movement allows the trunk of the tree to develop more strength and flexibility over time. The ties and stakes may be removed as the lower trunk becomes stronger and self-supporting. Find more detailed information about when to remove ties and stakes here:
- Apply mulch 2-4 inches deep around your tree. Keep all plants and mulch several inches away from tree trunks.
8 Tips on Watering Trees
- Keep tree trunks dry. They should not come into contact with water from sprinklers or hoses.
- Apply the right amount of water at the right time.
- Water newly planted trees regularly for a full season Many newly transplanted landscape trees die from the soil drying out too much between waterings. Regularly water newly planted trees. The tree root systems are small and need to be kept moist for a full growing season.
- Water the newly planted, drought-tolerant species too. This schedule of regularly watering newly planted trees holds true for drought-tolerant species as well as those that require more water. Once plants become well-rooted they should be watered less often but for longer periods of time.
- Water halfway to dripline and beyond. Since tree roots spread outward as well as downward, water should be applied beyond the dripline of the tree, if possible.
- Most established trees need water too. Most trees in California need supplemental irrigation above and beyond the naturally-occuring rains, especially in times of drought. Water established trees less often but more deeply to encourage deep rooting and structural balance above and below ground.
- Trees need to be watered slowly and deeply. If you use a garden hose, apply the smallest trickle of the water slowly, moving the hose every few hours to water the entire area around the tree. The deep watering encourages roots to grow downward and help prevent sidewalk damage.
- Do NOT water trees on the same irrigation/drip system as the one used for lawns and groundcovers. The light, frequent watering every few days that is appropriate for lawns/groundcovers discourages the deep growth of tree roots.
Tip on Pruning Trees
Prune trees only as needed and avoid topping them. Hire a credentialed and knowledgeable arborist to correctly care for your trees. Find a list of International Society of Arboriculture Certified Arborists in your area here.
Thinking about tree selection and predicted future climate change
You might select trees that are more suited for the future warming trends. Here is a very interesting article from the UCANR Green Blog on using location for time. For instance, in 2099 the climate in Berkeley may be more like that of Santa Ana.
“Urban foresters in inland cities of California should begin reconsidering their palettes of common street trees to prepare for warmer conditions expected in 2099 due to climate change,” said the study's co-author, Igor Lacan, UC Cooperative Extension environmental horticulture advisor in the Bay Area.
Street trees are important in so many ways:
Trees provide beauty and calm, help us to live with warmer temperatures, fight climate change, provide a natural habitat for wildlife including birds and pollinators. It is important to properly select, plant and care for street trees, so that the benefits of each street tree can be realized to its full potential.
Still need help?
Confused or need more information? Email us at acmg@ucanr.edu. Or contact us through our website.
More resources on the importance of trees, tree selection, tree care:
Four articles with more details on tree selection and tree care from Janet Hartin, UCCE horticulturalist:
- Trees for Tomorrow Start Today
- How to Avoid Common Ailments of Landscape Plants
- Landscape Tree Irrigation 101
- Plant a Tree. Leave a Legacy!
If you want more details of how to plant a tree with photos, here is a good source: “Save the Planet, (Learn How to) Plant a Tree” by Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott who is an ISA certified arborist and an ASCA consulting arborist. She is also WSU's Extension Urban Horticulturist and a Professor in the Department of Horticulture.
The importance of trees to cool urban heat islands
Lush urban forests can help communities face climate change
Trees also can have calming and healing effect on people and community
Cities in California inland areas must make street tree changes to adapt to future climate
Cooperative Extension San Joaquin County
Really good source of information on arboriculture and getting the most benefit from trees through good management.
UC study seeks street trees that can cope with climate change