By Donna Woodward, U. C. Master Gardener of Napa County
Twice a year, Napa County Master Gardeners conduct vegetable field trials. Members of the field-trial committee plant three different varieties of the same vegetable and monitor the results so we can share what we have learned with the public.
In the spring of 2018, we chose sweet peppers for our trials. The three varieties chosen were Gypsy (a hybrid), Golden Giant (a hybrid) and Jimmy Nardello (open-pollinated).Seeds for both hybrid varieties were purchased from Burpee; the Jimmy Nardello seeds came from Baker Creek.
We started the seeds in 4-inch pots in a greenhouse and planted the seedlings in our gardens between April 25 and May 5. Drip irrigation was recommended. Since peppers like rich soil, we were advised to amend the soil with compost and add a balanced fertilizer, such as 5-5-5. We planted the peppers 18 to 24 inches apart and were cautioned to keep them well-watered in hot and dry weather but to avoid getting water on the fruit.
All three varieties produced plenty of tasty sweet peppers. Jimmy Nardello was a pretty, bright red pepper with a sweet, slightly spicy flavor. Gypsy was a yellow-green pepper which also had a piquant flavor. Golden Giant, true to its name, produced very large, rounded fruit with thick flesh. The others were elongated, tapering from broad shoulders to a pointed tip.
Our committee generally reported good results for all three varieties. All benefited from some support, but it was especially important for the Golden Giant. Small tomato cages worked well. The peppers did not suffer much insect damage, the only report being in mid-September. All three varieties were somewhat vulnerable to sunburn and blossom-end rot.
Participants completed a survey rating the three varieties, on a scale of 1 to 5, for flavor and productivity. The scores were all high, ranging from 4.3 to 4.6, with Gypsy taking the honors.
However, in accumulating the participants' comments, a more complicated picture emerged. Individual experiences were often contradictory. The only variety that got predominantly positive reviews was the Jimmy Nardello. It received the most praise for flavor and was also the most prolific. It was the earliest to mature, about a month earlier than the other two, and continued to produce long into the season.
Reactions to the other two peppers varied widely. Comments regarding Golden Giant's flavor included “bland,” “delicious,” “good but not outstanding” and “bitter.” Comments on Gypsy were also at odds: “prolific and tasty;” “not prolific enough and not tasty or sweet;” and “best taste; pretty colors.”
How do we explain the difference between the numerical scores and the comments? Apparently rating by numbers doesn't tell the story. The comments bring out some of the variables that can influence outcomes in such trials.
Growing conditions can vary widely within Napa Valley. Soils, sun exposure and elevation can differ even within a small area. The pepper variety that performs best for you may well depend on the conditions in your garden. There was also some variability in how participants followed recommended cultivation guidelines. A few tweaks in growing practices might yield different results. We gardeners all know that trial and error is a great teacher.
Perhaps naming a winner isn't the most important outcome of this trial. All three of these pepper varieties can produce excellent fruit, as can many other sweet pepper varieties. The most valuable lessons relate to growing peppers in general:
Peppers are susceptible to sunburn. Planting them close enough for the leaves of plants to just touch will help protect them from sunburn.
Leaf puckering is a symptom of phosphorus deficiency. Phosphorus affects the health and growth of the plant and helps the fruit to set and develop. Dig some into the planting hole when transplanting. Most pepper plants appreciate a few tablespoons worked and watered into the soil every couple of weeks during the growing season. If leaf puckering occurs, use more.
Garden-grown sweet peppers are delicious. They are a wonderful addition to green salads, stir fries and other dishes, adding color, flavor and nutrition. If possible, make room for sweet peppers in your vegetable garden this spring.
Workshop: “Sustainable Vegetable Growing” (Four-Part Series) on Sundays February 23, March 1, March 8 and March 15, from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., at the University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. For more details & online registration go to Online registration (credit card only) or call 707-253-4221.
Workshop: “Spring and Summer Vegetables” on Sunday, March 8, from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m., at the Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. Do you want nutritious, easy-to-grow and utterly fresh food from your garden this spring and summer? To register, call the Parks & Recreation Department at 707-944-8712 or visit the department's web site.
The UC Master Gardeners of Napa County are volunteers who provide UC research-based information on home gardening and answer your questions. To find out more about upcoming programs or to ask a garden question, visit the Master Gardener website (http://napamg.ucanr.edu) or call (707) 253-4221 between 9 a.m. and noon on Mondays, Wednesdays or Fridays.
By T. Eric Nightingale, UC Master Gardener of Napa County
Spring is finally here and that means that tomato season is around the corner. Don't get too excited, though. Even though seedlings will be showing up in nurseries, it's best to wait to plant them.
Tomatoes need warm air and soil, as well as a lot of sunlight, to grow strong and healthy. Planting too early can leave them spindly and weak.
Should you want to be sure the time is right, test the soil temperature with a soil thermometer. It should be 60°F or more at a depth of two to three inches. Usually this occurs in early May.
Choosing a proper location for your tomato garden is important. The spot should get several hours of sunlight each day. You may have a prime spot but don't overuse it. Like other members of the nightshade family, tomatoes nurture the soil fungi Fusarium and Verticillium. The soil can become infected if tomatoes are planted in the same location too many years in a row. Rotating your tomato planting locations, or changing out the soil in a raised bed, will prevent the fungus from affecting your vegetables.
Plant tomatoes deeply. First, remove any leaves below the top eight inches. Place the seedling at a slight angle in the hole so that only the top eight inches sit about the hole. The plant's buried stem will push fresh roots, giving the young plant increased access to water and nutrients. Tomatoes also need a good deal of room to grow, so plant them at least two feet apart.
After your seedlings are all snug in their beds, they need some nurturing. If you are concerned about hungry animals or other threats, cover the tomatoes with the top half of a large soda bottle. Not only can this keep them from becoming someone's midnight snack, but it provides them with a personal greenhouse to keep them warm.
Tomatoes thrive with water, especially in the early days. Make sure to give them enough that the water soaks deep into the soil. This will ensure the plants get enough water immediately but will also encourage their roots to follow the water deep into the soil, helping the plants stay hydrated later.
As your plants grow, they will likely require support. Some tomatoes are “determinant” and grow into a shrub only a few feet tall. Many others are “indeterminate,” however, and will continue to grow like a vine until cold weather arrives.
For these motivated climbers you will need a tomato cage or other device. I have used a few stakes placed in a circle around the plant, with loose string or plant tape strung between them. This structure provides enough support while also allowing me to easily harvest the fruits of my labor.
Tomatoes can self-pollinate, so it's possible to get fruit while growing only one plant. The pollen still needs to move from one flower to the next, though. To be sure this happens, give your plants a light shake every morning. This jostling will knock some pollen airborne and help the process along.
One common disorder often seen on Roma or elongated tomatoes is blossom-end rot. You'll recognize the symptoms when you see fruit with an ugly brown sunken circle on one end. This condition can be caused by heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizer and extreme fluctuations in water supply. To avoid this problem always use a fertilizer with balanced amount of nitrogen and phosphorus and provide regular deep watering. Use a mulch around the base of the plants to reduce the loss of moisture from the soil.
Healthy transplants should not need much fertilizing until flowering and fruit set begins, too much nitrogen will give vigorous leaf growth delay flowering. Use a balanced fertilizer to grow healthy tomatoes, Nitrogen, is the nutrient responsible for leaf and stem growth and phosphorus for bud development. Fertilize every 4-6 weeks following the instructions on the label. Avoid applying more than is need so extra fertilizer doesn't leach beyond the root zone and
into the ground water.
Experiment and find what practices work best in your garden. With hard work and a little luck, you will be on the path to a bountiful harvest.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County (http:/napamg.ucanr.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.