And what about those trees, plants, and landscapes?
Forest fires are a needed natural occurrence. They clear out overgrown areas, allowing sunlight to reach the forest floor — and encouraging a resurgence of native plants and an abundance of wildflowers. Native birds, bugs, and bees are drawn to the new growth, and they can reestablish themselves and thrive.
Fire can destroy invasive species (including weeds) and eliminate, or reduce, plant disease and insects that can cause significant damage to old-growth forests. When the humus layer is reduced, several unwanted pests can be eliminated as well, including sawflies, red pinecone beetles, and maple leaf cutters.
How do some trees and plants survive, when everything around them has burned? Native plants have root structures that can grow to 25 feet deep, and such roots are generally unaffected by a fire. They bring moisture up, allowing the plant to sprout just a few days or weeks after the fire.
Many trees that grow in fire-prone areas develop thick bark, which protects the inner (cambium) layer from damage. This layer is responsible for moving water and nutrients to keep the tree alive.
Ponderosa pine is a good example. It has thick, flaky bark and drops its lower branches – which protects it from some fires. Other species, like the shortleaf pine or California buckeye, have extensive root systems and dormant underground buds that quickly re-sprout after a burn.
Some species of pine (Jack, lodgepole, hickory) regenerate by fire-stimulated seed dispersal. They have serotinous (hard, thick, resin-sealed) cones that can hang on the tree for many years. Only when the resin is melted by fire are the cones able to open and release their seeds.
Other plants such as Ceanothus, Coffeeberry, and Redberry have seeds with tough coatings and depend on fire to break their dormancy.
Ash from burned trees and decaying plants can be beneficial, too. Nutrients (potassium, calcium, magnesium and other trace elements) that were held captive in old, decaying plant matter are released into the soil in ash, benefiting surrounding vegetation.
Without wildfires, plant diversity can diminish significantly or disappear entirely. And without plant diversity, the ecosystem of native birds, bees and bugs would fail, leading to the extinction of some species.
So, what should you do after a fire? Although it is difficult, patience is the best approach. Trees may need six to 12 months to show signs of recovery. Here are some steps to take:
- First, hose down your trees and plants. Wetting everything down will allow the surviving leaves to transpire (“breathe”) and will help nutrient-rich ash seep into the soil.
- After the waiting period, have large, dead limbs removed, but try to leave all new growth intact so that the plant can manufacture food.
- After about two years, you can start to make appropriate pruning cuts to reshape the plant or tree into a healthy and appealing form.
- Small plants that have been severely damaged can be cut to the ground. Many will re-sprout from the roots.
- If you have a prized tree or plant that you want to save, the worst thing you can do is move too quickly! It needs as many branches as possible in order to produce enough new leaves to recover.
If you suffered significant or total landscape loss, you have an opportunity to rethink what you really want and need in your landscape. Consider replanting only native or Mediterranean plants, low-water options.
Think about creating a fire-safe zone around your home by building concrete or stone walls, patios, and walkways. Don't over-plant vegetation close to your home — that will only add fuel to any future fire that gets started. Create fire-breaks using flower beds, gardens and appropriate ground covers close to your home.
by UC Master Gardener Rebecca Jepsen
This article first appeared in the November 12 print issue of the San Jose Mercury News.
Benefits of banding
Banding refers to the practice of creating a band of fertilizer that runs alongside and a little below your rows of seeds. Banding your seeds with these “starter fertilizers” makes valuable nutrients available to early roots, helping seedlings to grow faster and bigger. This gives them an advantage over weeds. Also, placing nutrients within easy reach means less is wasted.
Before you start banding
Before jumping on the fertilizer bandwagon (sorry, I couldn't resist), you need to learn what is in your soil. You can't know what to add if you don't know what is missing. Most Morgan Hill soil already has an abundance of phosphorus, but yours might not. Adding more could be detrimental to your plants, and it's a waste of money.
Adding any unnecessary fertilizer also puts the environment at risk. Before adding fertilizer to your soil, find a reputable, local soil test company and submit samples for testing. The results are fascinating and useful. (Over-the-counter soil test kits are not useful yet.) If your soil already has plenty of everything, banding is unnecessary. If your soil is lacking any of the big three plant nutrients, banding can help your seeds overcome this handicap.
Choosing the right fertilizer for banding
All fertilizers are required to provide information about the percentage by weight of nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potassium (K). This means that a 10-pound bag of 10-20-10 fertilizer contains 1 pound nitrogen, 2 pounds phosphorous, 1 pound potassium, and 7 pounds of filler. After you have gotten the results from your soil test, you can select the best fertilizer for your crop.
Banding at planting time
After removing summer's bounty and preparing your garden for cool season crops, make two rows for each row of seed, instead of one. One row is for the seeds and should be the recommended depth, depending on the type of plant. The row next to it should be two inches deeper and two inches to the side. Lightly apply fertilizer to the deeper row and plant your cool season crops in the shallower row. Cover both rows with soil and add a little water.
Before you know it, your cool weather crops will be thriving, all thanks to good information and a little banding.
You can learn more about winter gardening at the South County Teaching and Demo Garden, found at St. Louise Hospital, 9400 No Name Uno, in Gilroy. Free classes are regularly offered to the public.
For more information, check our events page or call 408-282-3105 between 9:30 a.m. and 12:30 p.m., Monday through Friday.
by UC Master Gardener Kate Russell
Photo: University of Massachusetts Course website, PLSOIL 120, Organic Farming and Gardening, Guide for Fertilization of Horticultural Crops
This article first appeared in the November 8 – 21, 2017 issue of Morgan Hill Life.
Assuming that the Morgan Hill area gets its much needed rain this winter, growing flowers and vegetables during the winter months can provide a delicious harvest, while reducing erosion and promoting soil health. So what can you do to care for your winter crops?
Add organic soil amendments
Whether you plan for your garden to work or rest this winter, adding organic soil amendments now can replenish nitrogen levels and improve soil structure. Popular soil amendments include alfalfa pellets, blood meal, and fish emulsion. Aged manure or compost can also be dug in, or used as a top or side dressing to feed winter crops right away, or spring crops later in the season.
Mulch! Mulch! Mulch!
The benefits of mulching cannot be overstated. Covering the ground with two to six inches of mulch is one of the best ways to protect your Morgan Hill crops and soil. Mulching prevents runoff and erosion. It stabilizes soil temperatures and makes it more difficult for weeds to get started. You can often get free wood mulch from local tree trimmers. Just be sure to keep mulch a few inches away from tree trunks and plant stems. Continuous exposure to moisture can lead to fungal diseases.
Cut your losses
Some summer annuals may be hanging on, but they are not going to benefit anyone except local pests. Dead and dying summer plants can play host to many different pests and diseases. Toss diseased plant material in the trash and compost everything else. This is also a good time to prune fruit and nut trees. Cut out any dead, diseased, or crossed limbs. Do not prune apricot trees or grape vines in the rainy season, or you may create an entry point for Eutypa dieback, a fungal disease that can kill a tree or vine.
New plantings
While colder temperatures slow the growth of most plants, there are still several cool season crops you can start in October.
These crops include artichoke, arugula, asparagus, beets, bok choy, Napa cabbage, chard, cilantro, collards, dill, fennel, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, peas, radishes, spinach, and turnips.
Late summer plantings of broccoli, cauliflower, fava beans, leeks, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage should be well on their way by now. Adding side dressings and mulch can provide nutrients and protection to these cool weather crops.
You can learn more about winter gardening at the South County Teaching and Demo Garden, found at St. Louise Hospital, 9400 No Name Uno, in Gilroy. Free classes are regularly offered to the public.
For more information, check our events page or call 408-282-3105 between 9:30 a.m. and 12:30 p.m., Monday through Friday.
by UC Master Gardener Kate Russell
This article first appeared in the October 25 – November 7 issue of Morgan Hill Life.
Planting berries
Raspberries and blackberries can be planted from late fall through early spring. These plants tend to spread, so select a location that will naturally limit their growth. Placing them next to fences and buildings is ideal because they can provide trellising. To install plants, dig a wide, shallow hole that can contain all the roots. Trim off any dead or damaged root tissue and spread the roots out, within the hole. Roots should not be planted more than 2 inches deep. Cover with soil and press down firmly to eliminate any air pockets. Water well to settle the soil and hydrate the canes. Cut newly planted canes to a height of only 6 inches. Red raspberry plants are generally spaced 2 to 3 feet apart, while black and purple varieties are spaced 3 to 4 feet apart.
Training berries
Cane berry plants produce more fruit and stay healthier when they are trellised. Cane tips that reach the ground will start producing roots, rather than flowers and fruit. Only the largest canes should be retained.
All others should be pruned out because smaller canes produce smaller fruit. Also, tip back canes to prevent them from getting longer than 6 to 8 feet. The further a berry is from the crown of the plant, the smaller it will be. Canes should be fanned out for good air circulation and to make it easy for pollinators to reach the flowers. Before removing older canes, check to see when your particular variety produces fruit. Some canes produce fruit on one-year-old canes, while other produce on older canes.
Watering cane fruits
Raspberries and blackberries use a lot of water, but they do not tolerate standing water or soggy soil. Frequent watering is very important during bloom time. Too much heat and water stress at bloom time can eliminate an entire season's crop in a condition called “berry blast.” Soaker hoses and drip irrigation are excellent tools for keeping your berry plants healthy and hydrated without wasting water.
Other benefits of berries
Adding berries to your landscape also provides pollen and nectar for beneficial insects, food for indigenous birds and wildlife, and most casual thieves won't brave a blackberry bramble to get to your back door.
Raspberry and blackberry canes grow well in Morgan Hill, and they are easy plants to add to your landscape. Try them today.
You can learn more about growing berries and other edibles at the South County Teaching and Demo Garden, found at St. Louise Hospital, 9400 No NameUno, Gilroy. Classes are regularly offered to the public. For more information, check the events page or call (408) 282-3105 between 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Monday through Friday.
by UC Master Gardener Kate Russell
This article first appeared in the September 27 – October 10, 2017 issue of Morgan Hill Life.
Even if you are not planning to plant many veggies and herbs this fall, you should definitely invest the time to plant a cover crop in both your garden and raised beds. Cover crops take very little effort. You plant them once, water initially to get them started, and then let Mother Nature take over — assuming we are blessed with another wet winter.
Here in the Bay Area, the primary need is to add nitrogen to our heavy clay soil in order to loosen it up and feed our plants. Excellent nitrogen-fixing crops include vetch, cowpeas, fava beans, and crimson clover. Buckwheat is a great choice if you want a quick fix. It germinates in about five days and is ready to be turned under in about a month. You can feed your soil now, and still get a great fall garden planted.
For information and cool-season crops, don't miss the upcoming Fall Garden Market at Martial Cottle Park's Harvest Festival Oct. 7. The festival celebrates the agricultural heritage of Santa Clara Valley. There will be food, entertainment, activities for the kids, park tours, and more.
You will find seedlings of many Asian and Italian greens such as Chinese broccoli, pak choi, tatsoi, chicory, escarole, and radicchio. There will be dozens of varieties of beets, cabbage, and cauliflower. Try growing a few leafy greens that are great in soups, stews, and stir-fry meals, such as chard, kale, and mustard. They are cut-and-come-again plants that will keep on giving through next spring. And, if like me, you can't live without a fresh salad, you will find a variable salad bar of lettuce, spinach, arugula, cress, and mache to grow; all you'll need for serving them is a little vinaigrette!
And yes, there will be peas, turnips, onions, and even kohlrabi, collards, and artichokes.
Don't miss out on the blooming beauties: Agrostemma, Clarkia, Delphinium, Larkspur, Linaria, Snapdragons, Sweet Peas. Flowers not only add beauty, but bring in the bees and beneficial insects necessary for pollination and fending off the “bad bugs” that can damage your garden.
Whether you are a seasoned-gardener or just starting out, you can pick up lots of tips from the festival's free educational talks — Amazing Succulents, Cool Season Vegetables, Glorious Garlic, and Native Plants.
Growing your own food, whether with your family or by yourself, is not only enjoyable but truly important! You will conserve water, waste less (no one wants to throw away what they have worked to grow), avoid using harmful chemicals, nurture your soil, and help support and feed our native birds, bees, and other insects. And most importantly, you will make a huge, positive impact on your children; kids actually will eat what they grow! So head on out to one of our upcoming Fall Markets, and dig in!
Upcoming Fall Fall Markets
There are three upcoming Santa Clara County Master Gardeners Fall markets The main event will be at San Jose's Martial Cottle Park (5283 Snell Ave.) on Oct. 7, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Admission is free, but there is a $6 parking fee.
Other Master Gardener Fall Garden Markets will be presented Sept. 23, 10 a.m.-noon, Palo Alto Demo Garden, 851 Center Dr., Palo Alto; and Oct. 14, 10 a.m.-1 p.m., Guglielmo Winery, 1480 E. Main Ave., Morgan Hill.
by UC Master Gardener Rebecca Jepsen
Photo courtesy of Rebecca Jepsen
This article first appeared in the September 17 issue of the San Jose Mercury News.
