Contents:

1. Home Gardeners Are Important Keepers Of Biodiversity
2. Growing Succulents is Easy and Fun
3. Fruit Tree Pruning
4. Add a Splash of Citrus to Your Yard

Home Gardeners Are Important Keepers Of Biodiversity

by Hillie Salo

Seed share station at Martial Cottle Park, by Hillie Sato

What's important about diversity? Similar to your financial assets, where it is recommended to have a diverse portfolio, a diverse gene pool affords greater protection in times of crisis; if one individual fails, diversity will allow for the survival of others and the species.

Saving and sharing seeds is an important step towards building, strengthening, and preserving this biogenetic diversity. Individually, we each have a very small gene pool, probably not much larger than the palm of your hand or a small seed packet. But together, a community can create a much larger gene pool preserving greater diversity.

Seed saving and sharing is so important that it has warranted a note by the CA legislature: “Noncommercial seed sharing activity contributes significant value to the health of our communities and the resilience of our food system.”

Seed sharing opportunities can be found at your local Seed Library. The basic idea behind Seed Libraries is seeds are “checked out” and planted in the garden. Successful plants are let go to seed. The seed is collected, and then a portion is returned to the Seed Library, ready to be planted by future gardeners, thus creating a circle of seed saving and seed sharing in your local community. This process builds genetic diversity and gives access to locally grown seeds. Those seeds may be adapted to local conditions increasing their ability to survive and produce. Common bean seeds have been shown to exhibit signs of adaptation within three years.

Local Seed Libraries can be found at many city public libraries, including San Jose Public Libraries at the Almaden, Berryessa, Calabazas, Tully, and Willow Glen branches, as well as the Santa Clara City Library, Mountain View Public Library, and Santa Clara County Library, Gilroy branch. If your search for a seed library does not reveal one at your local library, you might like to suggest that one be added to their services. Every community can benefit from a Seed Library, even and especially school libraries.

 More info:

• Home Gardens: Neglected Hotspots of Agro-Biodiversity and Cultural Diversity, ResearchGate
• Homegardens in a micro-regional scale: contributions to agrobiodiversity conservation in an urban-rural context, Ethnobiology and Conservation
• Biodiversity in residential gardens: a review of the evidence base, Biodiversity and Conservation
• Food Gardens for a Changing World, UC Food Observer
• Seeds of change? Social practices of urban community seed sharing initiatives for just transitions to sustainability, The International Journal of Justice and Sustainability, Volume 27, 2022 - Issue 6

Growing Succulents is Easy and Fun

by Angie Chiappa

Succulents are plants with thick fleshy stems and leaves that collect and store water. They come in all shapes and sizes, many quite dramatic with beautiful flowers. They are also very easy to grow and are adaptable to many environmental conditions. Although sun loving, often just very good light is enough for them to grow. You can grow them in the ground or in pots, inside or outside. If they have air circulation and good drainage, they can be grown among other types of drought tolerant plants. If you are a new gardener or struggle to grow plants, succulents are for you! All cactus plants are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. Many succulents do not have thorns and instead have rosettes, fleshy leaves, tall and thin, short with small leaves, and all sizes and shapes in between.

Like all plants, succulents have a particular growing season. Propagate or replant winter-growing succulents in the fall and summer-growing succulents in the spring. The growing season is not necessarily the time of flowering. The flowers can appear before, during, or after the growing season.

About soil: The Master Gardeners succulent group at Martial Cottle Park in San Jose uses regular potting soil and mix in pumice.

About propagation: Propagate using a small plant piece and stick it directly in the soil after the cut dries. If there are no roots, do not water much. When the roots show, then you can water. Another way to propagate very fleshy leaves is to lay them on a slightly damp bed of soil. See the photo below.

Caring for succulents has one big rule: DON'T OVER WATER.

Water deeply once, then let it dry out. Throwing a little water on top every day will not make the plant thrive. When in doubt, DON'T water. Too much water rots the crown and stems, thereby killing the plant.

If the succulent shrivels from lack of water, it can be revived just by watering it.

The amount of sun, size and type of containers, location (outdoors or indoors) and temperatures (close to freezing or very hot), determine when to water and whether the plant will thrive.

Succulents close to dying can be revived with some care and experimentation. If you receive a half-dead succulent snippet or an item decorated with succulents, cut off the dead parts and try growing the healthy snippet. You may be surprised and end up with a nice plant!

Looking for some succulents? The Master Gardeners succulent group sells succulents on the third Saturday of every month, from 9 am–noon at Martial Cottle Park. There are hundreds of plants to choose from. We hope to see you there.

The succulents webpage on our website has more info.

Below is a repurposed tabletop water fountain decorated with succulents. A good idea during a drought when every drop of water is precious. Also, it's a great time to grow succulents during a drought.

More info: 

• Succulents and Cacti, El Dorado Master Gardeners
• Growing Succulents, Santa Clara Master Gardeners
• Propagation of Cacti & Succulents, Ernesto Sandoval talk at the 2017 Convention of the Cactus and Succulent Society of America, YouTube
• Cacti and succulents identification, plantsam.com

Fruit Tree Pruning

by Amanda Crooks

The time to prune dormant fruit trees is here. With the exception of apricot and cherry trees, winter is the best time to prune most deciduous fruit trees. Apricot and cherry trees should be pruned in the summer, when there is a higher chance of no rain for 6 weeks after pruning, to reduce the risk of Eutypa dieback.

Here are some general pruning tips.

• Gather your tools
• Hand pruning shears
• Lopping shears with 24–30" handles
• A folding or fixed handled pruning saw, with 8–15" curved blades and wide set teeth
• Make sure the blades are sharp to cut as cleanly as possible. Dull blades can leave rough cuts and increase the potential for disease or pests to affect the tree.
  
  
• When deciding which branch to cut and where to cut it, keep in mind:
• Topping a vertical branch encourages vegetative growth and opens the tree to more sunlight.
• Topping a horizontal branch renews fruiting wood and thins out excessive fruit. Horizontal branches left uncut will bear earlier and heavier crops.
• Do most of the pruning in the top of the tree so that the lower branches are exposed to sunlight. Branches exposed to sun will remain fruitful and produce the largest fruit. Shaded branches will eventually stop fruiting.
• Remove suckers, water sprouts, and most competing branches that grow straight up into the tree. Also remove any downward-bending branches.
  
  
• Tree-specific guidelines on how much to prune:
• For peach and nectarine trees, remove about 50% of last year's growth.
• For fig, apple, pear, plum, and apricot trees, remove about 20% of last year's growth.
• For cherry trees, only prune in the first 5 years of the tree's life, focusing on creating a proper structure with an open center and adequate spacing between scaffold branches.
  
  
• Try to prune when there is little to no rain in the forecast. Rain shortly after pruning can increase the risk of disease and pests affecting the tree.
  
  
• If you have a “fruit salad” tree with multiple varieties grafted onto a single tree, prune only the tips of branches in the summer to avoid removing all grafted material.
  
  
• Research does not support the use of wound sealing or tree sealant materials on pruning cuts; leave them exposed to the air after pruning.

If you have any overgrown or neglected fruit trees in your yard, it is possible to revive them through pruning. However, it's important to note that if fruit production is your goal, it may be best to replace the tree with a new one. Some things to keep in mind when trying to prune an overgrown fruit tree:

• It can take two to three years to prune a neglected fruit tree adequately enough to encourage fruit production.
  
  
• Focus on rejuvenating the tree into one that is structurally sound, functional, manageable, and attractive.
  
  
• A few large pruning cuts accomplish more than many small cuts. Avoid over-pruning.
  
  
• Stand back frequently and look at the tree several times to visualize where to prune and the future structure you desire.

More info:

• Eutypa dieback, UC Integrated Pest Management
• Pruning and Training, UC ANR Publication 8058
• Reviving Neglected Fruit Trees, UC ANR Publication 8058

Add a Splash of Citrus to Your Yard

By Karen Seroff

Let's talk about citrus! Besides being a wonderful source of vitamin C, citrus fruits are often used for garnishes, for adding a bright flavor to culinary dishes, and even displayed in a bowl to add color to a kitchen. Their fragrant blossoms are attractive to people and pollinators alike. Citrus are evergreen plants that can live and produce fruit for many years. They can be grown as a bush or shaped into a tree form as they grow taller, or even espaliered, adding beauty and interest to your landscape.

But what citrus plants grow best in Santa Clara County? Do they need special care to be productive? Let's explore a few of the varieties of citrus that are recommended for our area and how to best care for them.

Some recommended citrus varieties for Santa Clara County:

• Oranges: Lane's Late Navel, Valencia, Washington Navel, Robertson's Navel, Trovita, Cara Cara
• Blood Orange: Moro
• Sour Oranges: Chinotto, Seville, Bergamot, Bouquet de Fleurs
• Mandarins: Clementine, Dancy, Fremont, Kara, Kinnow, Page, Satsuma, Encore, Nova, Shasta Gold
• Grapefruit: Oro Blanco (grapefruit/pomelo hybrid)
• Lemons: Eureka, Lisbon, Meyer, Pink, Improved Meyer (free of tristeza virus)
• Limes: Bearss
• Kumquats: Meiwa, Nagami
• Tangelos: Minneola
• Unusual Citrus Varieties:
  • Buddhas Hand Citron
  • Makrut Lime (Thai or Indonesian Lime)
  • Kumquat hybrids-Limequat, orangequat, and calamondin

Many other varieties may also do well in Santa Clara County. The above list is based on UC Master Gardener trials, taste tests, and feedback from local growers.

Where to Plant:  Citrus will do best if planted in a sunny, warm location. Southwestern exposure or a location near a patio or driveway will maximize natural and reflected warmth. Avoid planting citrus in a lawn or near areas where they will receive excessive water.

When to Plant:  Although citrus can be planted at any time of the year, the best time is after the last frost in spring (mid-March to April).

Planting Instructions:  Dig the planting hole slightly less deep than the root ball and twice as wide. Avoid adding amendments, as the tree will grow best in native soil. Plant with the root ball about one inch above the surrounding soil for good drainage. Create a watering basin around the plant, sloping down away from the trunk. Trunk sunburn can be prevented by painting the trunk with white interior latex paint diluted 1:1 with water. Add a 3–4 inch layer of mulch around the tree to conserve moisture and reduce weeds. Make sure mulch is at least 6 inches away from the trunk. Citrus can also be planted in containers. Look for naturally smaller trees. Use at least a 15-gallon container. Water when the top 2–3 inches of soil is dry, and fertilize once or twice a month. Be prepared to transplant to a larger container when it becomes necessary.

Harvesting Citrus Fruit:  The first 3–4 years after planting a citrus tree are considered “nonbearing” years. There may be some light fruit production, but most of the plant's energy is used in developing root and branch growth. Trees will often drop some fruit and may be alternate bearing (heavy crop one year, light crop the next). It is important to let the fruit develop on the tree, as it won't continue to ripen once picked. Tasting fruit periodically will help indicate when it is best to pick. Color is not always a good indicator of ripeness.

Freeze Concerns:  Citrus trees are subtropical to tropical in nature. Therefore, freezing temperatures can cause severe damage and possibly even death of the plant. You can help protect your citrus by watering several days before an expected freeze and draping the tops of citrus trees with blankets or plastic. Remove the covering once the weather warms up to prevent the trees from overheating.

More Information:

• Growing Great Citrus, Santa Clara County Master Gardeners
• Citrus Cultural Tips, Pests and Disorders, UC Integrated Pest Management
• Citrus, The California Backyard Orchard, UC ANR
• Frost Protection for Citrus and Other Subtropicals, UC ANR Publication 8100

1. Saffron, UC Master Gardeners, Santa Clara County
2. Crocus sativus, Missouri Botanical Garden
3. UCCE Central Coast & South Region, Center for Landscape and Urban Horticulture
4. Grow Your Own Saffron, Washington State University
5. Colchicum, North Carolina Cooperative Extension

Photo via UCCE Santa Clara County Master Gardeners

Attracting Hummingbirds - Nature's Aerial Acrobats

By Catherine Wire Roberts

 

The whir of tiny wings is an unmistakable and welcome sound to a gardener, announcing the presence of an efficient pollinator and fantastic flier. These tiny birds are nature's best acrobats - besides hovering, they can fly in reverse, sideways and upside down! Not only are they fun to watch, they are expert pollinators, covering more territory than insects can in the same amount of time.

 

We are fortunate that several species of hummingbird make their home in Santa Clara County, or come through our area during their migration. In fact, Mount Umunhum, which towers over Santa Clara Valley, was named after this little bird by one of the area's indigenous tribes – “Umunhum” is Ohlone for “Resting place of the hummingbird.” [1]

 

Depending on migratory patterns, six species of hummingbirds, either reside in, or migrate through, California [2]:  

• Allen's Hummingbird (Selasphorus sasin) - breeds in coastal areas from Southern California to Oregon, a close relative of the Rufous Hummingbird and similar in appearance.
• Anna's Hummingbird (Calypte anna) - the largest hummingbird in California, a year-round resident, able to sing.
• Black-chinned Hummingbird (Archilochus alexandri) - breed in the U.S. during summer and travel to Western Mexico for winter. Prefer habitats close to water.
• Calliope Hummingbird (Selasphorus calliope) - smallest breeding bird in North America - the weight of a penny! Spends summers in mountain habitats from Southern California to Oregon.
• Costa's Hummingbird (Calypte costae) - can be found in California's deserts and along the coast. Has a distinctive voice.
• Rufous Hummingbird (Selasphorus rufus) - travels from summer in Alaska to winter in Mexico - one of longest known migratory flights. Populations are in decline.

A Hospitable Habitat

Some hummingbird species are threatened by climate change and human stressors on critical habitat. These include limited availability of nectar-producing plants impacted by temperature changes; loss of forested areas (critical to the life cycle of more than 80% hummingbirds) from invasive plant species or human actions like timber harvesting. Additional threats include wildfire, groundwater pumping, insect or disease outbreaks, and pesticide use.[3] You can help counter these and enjoy the antics of these special birds by providing a welcoming habitat.

 

Here are a few ways to make your space hummingbird-friendly:

 

Offer flowering plants: Colorful, tubular flowers are favorites, and it's true hummingbirds are attracted to red. Bees, who are red/green colorblind, will pass up the red flowers, leaving more nectar available for hummingbirds to enjoy uncontested. You can find pictures and inspiration in the UC Davis Arboretum's Hummingbird Plant List. Three plants recommended by the California Native Plant Society[4] to plant for winter blooms are:

• Franciscan manzanita (A. franciscana) —  a 1' tall mounding groundcover with pink and white flowers
• Chaparral currant (Ribes malvaceum) —  a small fragrant shrub with pale pink hanging flowers.
• Fuchsia-flowered gooseberry (Ribes speciosum) — a large, easy-to-shrub with abundant hanging red flowers.

Avoid pesticides: With such a tiny body, even ingesting a minor amount of pesticide could be fatal. Additionally, hummingbirds do not live solely on nectar. Entomologist Doug Tallamy of the University of Delaware says that “hummingbirds like and need nectar, but 80 percent of their diet is insects and spiders.” [5] If those are diminished by pesticides, the hummingbirds will lack a sustainable food source.

 

Provide clean water: These tiny treasures enjoy a bath! If you have a water feature, make sure it stays clean to minimize the spread of disease.

 

A word about feeders: liquid feeders can attract hummingbirds to your garden and can be conveniently placed to capture the acrobatic action. If you choose to have a feeder, make sure you clean it regularly, so harmful bacteria does not accumulate, and keep it free from ants and bees. Also consider that if they are consuming the nectar freely at the feeder, they are not pollinating other plants in your garden.

 

Attracting hummingbirds is a matter of providing the right environment with plenty of nectar to power their flight. With a little extra care and savvy plant choices, you can enjoy these special birds by providing a resting place in your own outdoor space.

 

Sources:

1. Sierra Azul Preserve History
2. USDA: Maintaining and Improving Habitat for Hummingbirds in California
3. https://westernhummingbird.org/habitat/
4. https://www.cnps.org/gardening/hummingbird-gardening-5098
5. What You May Not Know About Hummingbirds 

 

More information:

1. UC Davis Hummingbird Gateway Garden
   
2. UC Davis Hummingbirds in Your Garden
3. Western Hummingbird Partnership

  .

Seed Saving: Harvest and Storage

By Hillie Salo

 

The first consideration when harvesting seeds is the practice of selecting seeds from the most vigorous and healthy plants that have fruits with traits that are desired. Next is determining seed maturity. Mature seeds have the highest germination rates. In order to ensure that the seeds reach greatest maturity, they need to be left on the plant to ripen for as long as possible.

 

Seed harvest can be divided into wet seeds and dry seeds. Wet seeds include tomatoes, capsicums, chillies, and eggplants (aka as the Solanaceae plant family) and melons, squashes, and cucumbers (the Cucurbitaceae family).

 

For wet-seeded crops, the most mature seeds will be found in fruits that are over-ripe and just past the edible stage. Cut open the fruit, remove the seeds, then wash and dry. Tomatoes and cucumbers can benefit from a ferment for a few days.

 

There are some signs to look for in dry seeds that indicate they may be ready for harvest. Most seeds will exhibit some change of color, usually from light to dark. They may easily release from the plant or rattle when shaken. Noticing how dry the pod or seed feels may help determine if the seeds are ready to harvest. Seed pods can be harvested individually as they mature or wait until 60-80% of your seeds are ripe to make a whole crop harvest.

 

Many flowers can be easy to collect seeds from including alliums, nigella, poppies, cosmos, calendula, zinnias, cleome, sunflowers, honesty and foxgloves,

 

Seeds need to be extremely dry before storing. Some considerations when drying include making sure that there is plenty of air circulation and temperatures do not exceed 95°F (35°C). It is not recommended to dry seeds in direct sunlight.

 

There are a couple of tests to help determine dryness in seeds. For thin seeds such as melon seeds, bend the seed. If the seed snaps then the seeds are dry enough for long-term storage. If instead the seed bends, it will need more drying.

 

For larger seeds, such as bean seeds, take a hammer to the seed. If the seed shatters, it is ready for storage. If it should smash or mush, continue drying until able to pass the hammer test. Another easy test is to bite the seed. If a tooth mark is visible, it still needs more time to dry.

 

When seeds are dry enough, they need to be separated from the non-seed material, known as chaff. Threshing is the method that separates the seeds from the plant. This is done by some mechanical means, such as beating with a flail.

 

Before seeds can be stored, they need to be as clean as possible. Non-seed material can lead to mold and rot. Cleaning seeds can be done by winnowing and screening. Winnowing is a process that uses weight to separate seeds from the chaff. The lighter chaff is blown away separating it from the heavier seeds as they fall.

 

Screening uses size to separate seeds from the chaff. With two screens together, one a little larger than the seed and the other a little smaller, most of the chaff can be filtered out.

 

Once your seeds are clean and dried, they are ready for long-term storage. The rule for seed storage is cool, dark, and dry. A closet can be a fine place for storage for many years for most seeds. For longer storage, a refrigerator or freezer can add even more time for any special seeds.

 

Seeds should be stored in airtight containers such as Mason jars. Make sure to label your seeds. The more information the better, but at a minimum: name and date. Consider leaving a label inside with the seeds as added insurance in case the first label is lost.

 

To check for viability in your seeds, a simple germination test can be useful. On a damp paper towel, lay out 10 Seeds. Roll up the paper towel and place it in a plastic bag. Leave a small opening for the seed to breathe.

 

Check your seeds after 3 days, continue checking for the next 10 days. Most seeds sprout between 7–10 days. Divide the number of sprouted seeds by the total number of seeds started and multiply by 100. This will give you the germination percentage. If your percentage is less that 70%, adding additional seeds when you plant may increase the number of plants that may germinate in your garden.

 

Happy Seed Saving and don't forget to check the UCCE Santa Clara Master Gardener Saving Seed Basics page for more information.

 

More information: Seed Saving Basics 

 

 

The Tale Of Two Dwarf Alberta Spruce Christmas Trees in Santa Clara County
by Jeffrey Jenks

Dwarf Alberta spruce tree exhibiting reversion

Planted over 30 years ago, this mature dwarf Alberta spruce (Picea glauca var. albertiana ‘Conica') in Cupertino has reverted and is now growing like a normal white spruce. This phenomenon is called “genetic reversion.”  

How did this happen? Originally, buds or cuttings from an Alberta spruce plant were grafted onto a spruce rootstock and remained true to form. This is how many cultivars, such as Alberta spruce, originate. However, just as the original genetic mutation occurred to produce the cultivar, occasionally a reverse mutation occurs and portions of the plant “revert” back to the species' normal growth.

A blog post from the UC Master Gardener Program of Napa County describes this same reversion with a confirming photo. 

What should have been done when the reversion occurred? Examine the tree to determine where the reversion originated and prune the branch back to that point. Often, reverted shoots grow more vigorously than the rest of the tree. Unfortunately, this dwarf Alberta spruce was left with multiple un-pruned, reversions that now dominate the tree. 

This has created a difficult decision that may result in removing the tree completely since it has outgrown its place in the landscape, pruning out the normal white spruce branches leaving “holes” in the conical shape, or pruning the outgrowths to be flush retaining the conical shape. It's best to “nip it in the bud” when a reversion first appears. 

Transplanted from a nursery in about 2020, this dwarf Alberta spruce Christmas tree in the same yard in Cupertino is dead. How did this happen when the same species of tree grew to maturity in the backyard as shown above? One explanation is that dwarf Alberta Spruce is only hardy in USDA zones 3–8. Cupertino is in USDA zone 9b.

What can be learned from these stories about two dwarf Alberta spruce Christmas trees?

• If you want to take the dwarf Alberta spruce Christmas tree that you bought at the nursery and transplant it in your landscape and have it be hardy, check to be sure you are in USDA zones 3–8.
• If you do plant a dwarf Alberta spruce Christmas tree and you want it to retain its conical shape and avoid reversion, then at the first sign of a branch emerging that is below the graft union prune the branch back to the point of the reversion. 
• Finally from the Holiday Ideas section of the UC Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County, consider renting a tree from Our City Forest as it's on its way to a permanent home in the community.

Fall is here, which means it's time to start harvesting fall tree fruits. If you have any apple, pear, pomegranate, persimmon, or nut trees in your yard, you may be closely monitoring the fruit to harvest it at the right time. Read below for some fall fruit harvesting tips.

Some general fruit harvesting and storage tips include:

• Use your senses to determine when the fruit is ripe enough to pick. Look at the color, feel it, and pay attention to the size.
• Harvest when the fruit is cool (ideally in the early morning) and keep the harvested fruit cool to promote fruit quality and shelf life.
• Twist and lift the fruit up to remove it from the tree; don't pull straight down on it.
• Handle harvested fruit carefully to avoid bruising or puncturing the skin.
• If needed, let the fruit ripen in a cool, dry place inside. Then store in a refrigerator or other cool storage to maintain freshness.
• Fruit on the same tree may ripen at different rates, so you may need to harvest at different times.

Apples

Apples can either be left to ripen on the tree, or you can pick them before maturity and let them ripen after harvest. But don't leave them too long, as apples left on the tree tend to drop off the tree and can also become mealy. After harvesting your apple crop, fertilize the tree and remove any fallen fruit to control for codling moths. After leaves fall, remove and discard or compost them to prevent the spread of apple scab. 

Two pears ready to pick, and one left too long on the tree (photo credit: Amanda Crooks)

Pears

Unlike apples, pears must be picked before they're ripe. Do not let them ripen on the tree. Follow similar horticultural practices with pears as you would an apple tree post-harvest. Note: this is different for Asian pears. The Clemson Extension says: 

There are also several differences between Asian pears and the more common European pear. Asian pears reach optimum quality when allowed to ripen on the tree, similar to apples and peaches. European pears are usually harvested in a green stage and allowed to ripen at room temperature.

 

Two persimmons starting to change color. (photo credit: Amanda Crooks)

Persimmons

Persimmons should also be harvested before they fully ripen. Harvest after the skin has turned orange, but before they begin to soften. Make sure to use some shears or snippers to cut the persimmon off the tree; don't twist and pull them off like pears and apples. 

Pomegranates

Look for shiny, red, leathery skin and large firm fruit before harvesting pomegranates. Like persimmons, pomegranates should also be clipped off the tree using shears rather than pulled off. Wear thick gloves and protective clothing to avoid getting poked by thorns. Pomegranates are highly susceptible to damage, so handle them carefully. 

Nuts

Depending on the nut tree you have, look for changes in size, color, or cracks or changes in the hulls before harvesting. Most nuts will drop easily off the tree when they're ready to harvest. You'll want to cure some nuts, such as hazelnuts or walnuts, before consuming. 

Sources: 

1. The California Backyard Orchard UCANR
   
2. Harvesting Fruit: UC Master Gardeners of Alameda County 
   
3. UC Davis Fruit and Nut Resource & Information Center 
   

Welcome to Thyme to Garden, the new blog from the UC Master Gardener Program of Santa Clara County.

We look forward to offering you content that is thought-provoking, informative, and helpful in your gardening adventures. We hope we can provide you with some of those “I learned something new” moments and that you'll look forward to each seasonal issue of Thyme to Garden! Subscribe to receive our quarterly blog in your inbox!

Pollinators Need Our Help

By Rhonda King-Curry

You've probably read that pollinator populations are declining worldwide. Pollinators are important. They are responsible for 1 of every 3 bites of food we eat. Mounting evidence shows that home gardens can make a big difference in helping pollinators. How can you help? In addition to skipping the pesticides, pollinators need three things: food, shelter, and water.

Food: Grow flowers of different sizes, heights, shapes, and colors that are planted in clusters (3'x'3 drifts) that offer different blooms almost year-round. Growing different kinds of flowers will ensure there's something for everyone. Pollinators will be busy from late winter through the end of autumn foraging at flowers, so having a variety of flower types will ensure different pollinators have something just right for them.

Tiny native bees need tiny flowers—let some of your herbs make their tiny flowers. Umbel-shaped (umbrella-like) and flat flowers allow landing pads for butterflies and medium-sized bees. Tubular-shaped flowers are good for hovering pollinators like hummingbirds or larger bees that grasp onto the petals of flowers to hang on. Don't worry about focusing on planting only red tubular flowers for hummingbirds. They'll forage at all flower colors. With red flowers, they have less competition from bees because bees only see ultraviolet light. Bees can't see red, so they generally leave red flowers to the hummers, and are instead attracted to colors such as white, blue, and yellow.

Why grow flowers that bloom in late winter? Some native bees, such as bumblebee queens, emerge from their nests early. They'll fly in rainy cold weather while honeybees stay in their hives. After hibernating all winter, bumblebee queens are hungry, so Manzanitas, Ceanothus, and other early bloomers are quite the welcome sight. 

In California, we have about 1,600 different species of native bees. Most are solitary, meaning they don't live in large hives or cooperate with organized divisions of labor like the non-native honeybee. Native bees, without a colony or hive to protect, are not aggressive and rarely sting people. They come in all sizes and most are generalist feeders, so they'll forage at all flowers. But some native bees are specialists, so they'll only be interested in particular flowers or flower families. Having a variety of flowers for bees to choose from will ensure something for everyone.

Shelter: Most native bees are cavity-nesters (either in hollow stems above ground or in tunnels underground). When deadheading plants with hollow stems, leave some taller stalks for the native bees. Also, don't cover your entire yard with deep layers of mulch. Many native bees need bare soil to make nests. Leave some unmulched soil, perhaps behind taller shrubs, for nesting sites.  

Water: A shallow dish of muddy water will help pollinators stay hydrated. Why muddy? Because butterflies engage in a behavior called ‘puddling' where they suck up nutrients necessary for reproduction that nectar can't provide. Bees find water by smell, so if the water is too clean, they might miss it. Bees can't swim, so add some wine corks, large pebbles, or marbles to the shallow dish so they have somewhere to land. 

Summer Seed Saving

by Hillie Salo

As we transition from spring to summer, consider letting your plants go to seed. You can then harvest your seeds for future plantings.

The easiest crops to save seed from are of those that self-pollinate, such as lettuce, peas, beans, and tomatoes. Self-pollinating plants reduce concerns of cross-pollination and will produce seeds true to type; that is, future fruit just like the parent. Hybrid seeds will not breed true.

As the weather warms, lettuce will become noticeably bitter to taste. Soon the plant will start to bolt. Bolting is the process where a stem shoots up and a seed head forms. At first, yellow daisy-like flowers will appear, which then turn white and fluffy. Under the fluff, you will find seeds. The seed heads do not ripen uniformly and can be harvested individually as they ripen. If this is too tedious, you can wait until about 50% of the seed heads are fluffy, then cut the stalk. Place the stalk and seed heads into a paper bag until totally dry and most of the seed heads have ripened.

Though peas can be grown in spring and fall, they are best saved as we go into the warm season. The heat of summer will reduce issues with powdery mildew. Peas and beans are best left on the vine for as long as possible to dry. When they dry and rattle in their pods, they can be harvested individually or you can pull the whole vine. Then, let the pods continue to dry for another week or two. When the beans are totally dry, put them into the freezer for a few days to kill weevils.

Tomatoes are best harvested at just past peak ripeness. Squeeze or scoop out the seeds into a jar and leave for a few days to ferment. This will let the seed gel surrounding the seed dissolve, which allows for easier germination and will rid the seed of some seed-borne diseases.

Useful seed saving resources:

UCCE Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County seed saving basics 

Seed Savers Exchange

Seed Alliance: A Seed Saving Guide for Gardeners and Farmers

Seed to Seed, book by Suzanne Ashworth (copyright 1991)

Mornings At Martial Cottle School Field Trips

by Pamela White 

Master Gardeners host native bee and pollinator field trips at Martial Cottle Park. The half-day morning field trip is offered to school groups, homeschoolers, and scout groups throughout Santa Clara County. Children rotate through four teaching stations spread across our 4-acre garden. The trip includes introductory lessons about native and non-native bees and ways of observing bees. The curriculum is based on life science standards for elementary grades, and the different learning styles of students are considered using a multi-modality approach. The closure lesson uses riddles to review what was learned and songs to review key concepts. There's even a bee waggle dance!

At the honeybee station, students create a hive with manipulatives (these are physical tools of teaching which engage students visually and physically with objects such as coins, blocks, puzzles, etc), learn what different types of honeybees do, and what jobs they have throughout their lifetime.

At the walk and talk station, students observe and learn about the Yellow-Faced Bumblebee, the Valley Carpenter Bee, and the Ultra-Green Sweat Bee. They tour the gardens, learn how to protect habitats for bees, learn about social and solitary bees, ground and cavity nesters, and different ways bees collect nectar and pollen.

At the bee anatomy station, students learn about bee anatomy and create a model of one of the native bees. They also sing a song about bee anatomy parts to reinforce learning.

At the pollination station, they learn what pollination is, the different ways plants are pollinated, and how bees navigate to locate, collect, and transfer pollen. The children make seed balls to use later to start their own small pollinator patch.

Interested in learning more about our school field trips?

'Mornings at Martial Cottle Park: Lessons In The Garden' are provided each spring and fall. These field trips are offered to students throughout Santa Clara County. Lessons are about plant life cycles, nutrition (why we eat all colors of vegetables and fruits and that we eat all parts of a plant), pests and beneficial insects in the garden, and insect anatomy. Lessons are based on life science standards taught in the elementary grades. Master gardeners and community volunteers provide these hands-on lessons.

Make a reservation request for a field trip and get more info on the UCCE Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County website. 

The Fountain of Youth: Look No Further Than Your School Garden

by Lisa Fraboni

Since 1493, when Ponce de Leon, a Spanish explorer, attempted to reach the island of Bimini (now Puerto Rico) in search of the Fountain of Youth, mankind has sought the mythical spring in which youth is restored to anyone who drinks or bathes in its waters.

Research has shown that youthfulness can be maintained and even restored with proper exercise, time spent outdoors, and a quality diet rich in fresh fruits and vegetables. Today, most Americans, including children, spend most of their time indoors. Today's children devote an average of seven minutes a day to unstructured outdoor playtime. An August 2022 article, from The American Academy of Pediatrics states, “The prevalence of childhood obesity in the United States is high, and obesity in early life is linked with long-term poor physical and mental health.”  

School gardens have been found to be an effective way to promote lifelong healthy eating habits and connect students to the natural world. Gardening provides educators with opportunities to enhance student education through practical, reality-based learning. Benefits of school garden programs include:

Academic Achievement: The goal of every school is to excel in academia. The school garden is the perfect environment for hands-on learning, observation, and experimentation in all core curriculum subjects. Children can use scientific methods through plant-related experiments to measure plant growth, or observe the effect of sunlight on the quality of fruit, or analyze the quality of soil and water on food production.

Environmental Enlightenment: School gardens bring desperately needed green space to urban landscapes. Children can rest, heal, and meditate while experiencing the natural environment. These opportunities often lead to better mental health.

Healthy Lifestyle: California school-age children are increasingly overweight and unfit. They do not exercise regularly, nor do they eat the recommended daily servings of fruit and vegetables. These behaviors are directly related to increases in diabetes and heart disease. One in three school-age kids is considered overweight. Gardens are not only academic learning environments, but they also offer a place for children to learn where their food comes from. Children that are exposed to the process of growing and caring for their food show an increased interest in trying new foods which leads to a higher consumption of fruits and vegetables.

Regardless of socioeconomic standing, school gardens introduce children to diverse and varied food. Lastly, maintaining a garden requires students to dig, plant, and weed their beds, a great way to get quality outdoor exercise.

Social Skills: Maintaining a school garden introduces students to life-long social skills: responsibility, teamwork, ownership, and leadership. A school garden program also fosters a sense of community, bringing students, parents, teachers, administration, and community members together for a common purpose.

Sensory Enrichment: Gardens are the perfect place to create a sensory environment. Students can touch fuzzy Lamb's Ears, taste Chocolate Mint, hear the rustle of Broom Corn in the breeze, or see the vibrant colors of a Carnival Zinnia.  Time in gardens has been directly linked to alleviating ADHD symptoms in children.

The Fountain of Youth is not a mythical spring but a way of thinking and living. School gardens bring the natural environment into the classroom and the students into the garden. Maybe we were looking for the Garden of Eden all along.

If you would like more information on the Master Garden School Advisory Program, please go to the site and complete a request form. Master Gardeners can answer school garden questions and if needed, come to your site and provide a garden consultation.  

Six Plant Palettes to Quench Your Thirst

by Monique Frappier

Not so different from creating a habitat for native garden pollinators, the Garden-to-Glass Demonstration Garden holds a collection of nourishing plants to help sustain people. Focused on representing home gardeners with small spaces, as is the case for many county residents, and being alert to the need to conserve water, the idea emerged to showcase a compendium of edible plants to be used for crafting refreshing drinks.  

The Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County carried on with the fun theme at the intersection of two realms where conservation meets the end game of creative concoctions. The Garden-to-Glass Demonstration Garden at Martial Cottle Park was established in 2020 to encourage home gardeners of all ages to ‘Drink What You Grow' through an evolving display of six raised garden beds, each one featuring its own potable plant palette. 

•  The Lots of Lemon palette is made up of plants with a taste and fresh scent of lemon to grow in a raised bed if one is short on space for a lemon tree. One of these plants is Lemon thyme, an herb for a Lemon thyme Prosecco! Lemon Verbena (Aloysia citrodora), Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), and Lemon grass (Cymbopogon citratus) aptly fit in this plant assemblage to eventually also get snipped and sipped. 

• A Refresh & Rehydrate palette includes plants to use as ingredients to flavor water – think agua fresca or spa water. To craft cool season smoothies, we grow kale, parsley, beets, fennel, and celery amongst the pollinator-friendly perennials; such as French Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus), Mexican Mint Marigold (Tagetes lucida), and Anis Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum). All three re-sprout in the spring to supply us with licorice-like leaves that expand our repertoire of sweet-flavored drinks from around the world. And, from the tip of your tongue, the famous ‘La Vie en Rose' song rolls out when you sip on a Spritz made from the easy to grow Rose-scented Geranium (Pelargonium capitatum, ‘Attar of Roses'). This is another must-have plant in any palette and a great indoor plant as well.

• The Mint & More garden bed holds a palette of plants from the mint family, including basils (Ocimum spp.), bee balm (Monarda spp.), and shiso (Perilla fructescens). These offer up a mint-like flavor to any drink without worrying about them invading your garden like true mints. While Shiso is oftentimes grown as an ornamental in border gardens, packing a punch of chartreuse or maroon against a dark green backdrop, it is however ‘shisolicious'! Imagine basil, cinnamon, and mint all rolled into one as Shiso juice; it pairs wonderfully well with cucumbers.

• Our Soothing Sips palette is a mix of some popular plant choices to infuse, like culinary Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia ‘Munstead') and calming German and Roman Chamomiles (Matricaria recutita and Chamaemelum nobile). Additionally, the not-so-well-known North American native plant of Yaupon Holly (Ilex vomitoria), the only North American source of caffeine, is a plant we included in dwarf form. It's doing wonderfully. We are eager to start roasting some leaves to brew some tea.

• We also have one bed to showcase a Flower Power palette, where one can find examples of blooms to be used to flavor, color, and let's not forget garnish your drinks. Be mesmerized by, for example, the evocative fragrance of Violas (Viola odorata), the elegance of purple-star-shaped borage (Borago officinalis), or the tasty red tartness of karkade tea made from hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa) sepals.

• And finally, one raised bed holds the Close to Home palette, inspired by low-water, native plants that grow in similar climates to ours. Native strawberries (Fragaria vesca) and olive herb (Santolina rosmarinifolia) are some of the plants that have found a home here only to make their way to either a shrub or a bitter for a twist on the classic Negroni. We must mention Yerba Buena (Clinoposium douglassii), an overlooked low-water, ground cover that thrives in partial shade. The best thing about this mighty yet delicate plant is its leaves; which can be dried to steep a tea with hints of spearmint and bubble gum.

Even though the number of plants to include in the Garden-to-Glass Demonstration Garden is innumerable, we have doubled down on promoting water conservation, polyculture, and high-density planting in small spaces – all ways to improve plant health and yield. And, let's not forget that quenching your thirst with the plants you grow connects us, together, with nature. Cheers!

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Happy Gardening!

We are proud to introduce a new video, 3 Sisters Garden, now available on our YouTube channel. Over a year and a half in the making, the video was made possible through the hard work of the 3 Sisters Garden crew and the inspired production of our video team. Enjoy watching squash, beans, and corn, growing together in perfect harmony!