One simple, cost-effective way to reduce your water use is to set up a greywater system that allows you to capture and redirect water from your washing machine for use on landscape trees, shrubs, ground covers, and lawn. (It should not be used on vegetable gardens where you are growing root crops or where edibles touch the ground.)
On average, a laundry-to-landscape system will recapture 17 gallons a day per person. For a family of four over one month, that amounts to a whopping 2,000 gallons for reuse.
Some counties offer rebate programs that cover all or part of the material costs for setting up a greywater system. The Santa Clara Valley Water District offers a Graywater Laundry to Landscape Rebate for properly connecting your washing machine to a greywater irrigation system. For most cities in the district the rebate is $200; some, such as Cupertino, are subsidizing the program and offering $400 per household.
According to Justin Burks, manager of the rebate program, “laundry to landscape greywater systems are simple, relative to other greywater systems. Most folks are able to set the system up over a long weekend or two.” But if you aren't all that handy, or just don't have the time, there are many trained professionals who can do the job for you. Installation prices range from around $700 to $1,000, including materials. A properly maintained system should last about 10 years.
Greywater can't be stored; it needs to be distributed to one or more areas that have been dug out, backfilled with mulch and are large enough to absorb the water. The mulch basin must be large enough to prevent runoff or pooling, and tubing needs to labeled appropriately so the water isn't used for drinking.
When you apply for the rebate, the water district will provide you with the square footage needed for a minimum mulch basin, based on your washer's age and type, the amount of laundry you do and the soil type on your property. In many areas, no permit is needed, but customers must verify that with their local planning or building department before starting the project.
No pre-inspection by the water district is necessary, but after installation, an inspector will visit to verify the system was set up and is performing properly. After passing the post-inspection, applicants will receive their rebate checks in four to six weeks.
When using the system, you will need to use biodegradable and non-toxic detergent (widely available) and avoid bleach, since it can be harmful to plants and soil. It's also best to avoid using greywater to irrigate acid-loving, pH-sensitive plants, such as blueberries, ferns, camellias, and rhododendrons.
“Recycling and reusing every drop of water that you possibly can not only saves you money, it's the right thing to do,” says Richard Santos, vice chair of the district's board of directors. “Using water wisely, especially on your landscape, is a win-win!”
But before you reach for that toolkit, go to the website valleywater.org to check out the rebate requirements and fill out the application. Wait to receive a Notice to Proceed before starting work.
Although a greywater system may not be at the top of your holiday wish list, it truly is a gift that will keep giving back — to you, your family and the planet!
by UC Master Gardener Rebecca Jepsen
This article first appeared in the December 10 print issue of the San Jose Mercury News.
If you want to stay ahead of the game in the garden, now is a good time to do some, or all, of the things on today's list.
Fruit-tree pruning
Fruit-tree pruning is best done this month and in February. Trim off dead or damaged branches. Open up the tree's canopy by removing crossing branches. After pruning, apply a dormant oil spray to ward off scale, mealy bugs, whiteflies, and mites. Pruning should be completed by the end of February before buds begin to open. Aso see the UC Publication on Fruit Trees: Training and Pruning Deciduous Trees.
Don't prune frost damage yet. Tender plants may have suffered from our December frosts, but pruning them early can do additional harm. Wait until the chance of frost has passed, probably mid-March, before removing unsightly leaves and branches.
Fireproofing
Fireproofing the area within 30 feet of your home can mean the difference between saving or losing it in a blaze. Never plant pines, junipers, eucalyptus or greasewood trees within this zone, since they are high in oils and resins, and so extremely flammable. Keep brush and small branches trimmed back from structures. Small plants, no taller than 18 inches, and fire-resistant groundcovers are recommended. See UC's publication on Home Landscaping for Fire for more information.
Lawn care
Moss and algae in the lawn is usually caused by neglect. Specifically, it may mean poor drainage, too much water, soil compaction, restriction of airflow, too much thatch or a soil imbalance. Reduce watering, dethatch, aerate to reduce compaction and/or perform a soil test. The pH level should have an acidity range between 6-7. An application of fertilizer will with help eliminate the moss, while algae needs a reduction of fertility.
Protect plants
Frost-protect sensitive plants by keeping soil moist and covering plants with a blanket or cloth during the night when there are warnings of a possible freeze. If possible, move outdoor potted plants under eaves, preferably on the east or south side of the house.
Move houseplants to a bright, sunny location. Clean foliage by washing sturdy leaves with a moist cloth or rinsing the entire plant under a tepid shower. Dust leaves of succulents with a soft brush.
- Find a complete list of January Gardening Tips.
By bare root: artichokes, asparagus, blackberries, grape vines, onions, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries, roses, fruit trees, perennials.
By seed: arugula, Asian greens, bell beans, broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce, peas, salsify, spinach.
- Find a list of cool-season vegetables that do well in Santa Clara County.
by UC Master Gardener Rebecca Jepsen
Pruning photo: Kenneth Silver/Newport News Daily Press
Bare root plants photo: Courtesy DIY Network
This article first appeared in the January 7 print issue of the San Jose Mercury News.
And what about those trees, plants, and landscapes?
Forest fires are a needed natural occurrence. They clear out overgrown areas, allowing sunlight to reach the forest floor — and encouraging a resurgence of native plants and an abundance of wildflowers. Native birds, bugs, and bees are drawn to the new growth, and they can reestablish themselves and thrive.
Fire can destroy invasive species (including weeds) and eliminate, or reduce, plant disease and insects that can cause significant damage to old-growth forests. When the humus layer is reduced, several unwanted pests can be eliminated as well, including sawflies, red pinecone beetles, and maple leaf cutters.
How do some trees and plants survive, when everything around them has burned? Native plants have root structures that can grow to 25 feet deep, and such roots are generally unaffected by a fire. They bring moisture up, allowing the plant to sprout just a few days or weeks after the fire.
Many trees that grow in fire-prone areas develop thick bark, which protects the inner (cambium) layer from damage. This layer is responsible for moving water and nutrients to keep the tree alive.
Ponderosa pine is a good example. It has thick, flaky bark and drops its lower branches – which protects it from some fires. Other species, like the shortleaf pine or California buckeye, have extensive root systems and dormant underground buds that quickly re-sprout after a burn.
Some species of pine (Jack, lodgepole, hickory) regenerate by fire-stimulated seed dispersal. They have serotinous (hard, thick, resin-sealed) cones that can hang on the tree for many years. Only when the resin is melted by fire are the cones able to open and release their seeds.
Other plants such as Ceanothus, Coffeeberry, and Redberry have seeds with tough coatings and depend on fire to break their dormancy.
Ash from burned trees and decaying plants can be beneficial, too. Nutrients (potassium, calcium, magnesium and other trace elements) that were held captive in old, decaying plant matter are released into the soil in ash, benefiting surrounding vegetation.
Without wildfires, plant diversity can diminish significantly or disappear entirely. And without plant diversity, the ecosystem of native birds, bees and bugs would fail, leading to the extinction of some species.
So, what should you do after a fire? Although it is difficult, patience is the best approach. Trees may need six to 12 months to show signs of recovery. Here are some steps to take:
- First, hose down your trees and plants. Wetting everything down will allow the surviving leaves to transpire (“breathe”) and will help nutrient-rich ash seep into the soil.
- After the waiting period, have large, dead limbs removed, but try to leave all new growth intact so that the plant can manufacture food.
- After about two years, you can start to make appropriate pruning cuts to reshape the plant or tree into a healthy and appealing form.
- Small plants that have been severely damaged can be cut to the ground. Many will re-sprout from the roots.
- If you have a prized tree or plant that you want to save, the worst thing you can do is move too quickly! It needs as many branches as possible in order to produce enough new leaves to recover.
If you suffered significant or total landscape loss, you have an opportunity to rethink what you really want and need in your landscape. Consider replanting only native or Mediterranean plants, low-water options.
Think about creating a fire-safe zone around your home by building concrete or stone walls, patios, and walkways. Don't over-plant vegetation close to your home — that will only add fuel to any future fire that gets started. Create fire-breaks using flower beds, gardens and appropriate ground covers close to your home.
by UC Master Gardener Rebecca Jepsen
This article first appeared in the November 12 print issue of the San Jose Mercury News.
Benefits of banding
Banding refers to the practice of creating a band of fertilizer that runs alongside and a little below your rows of seeds. Banding your seeds with these “starter fertilizers” makes valuable nutrients available to early roots, helping seedlings to grow faster and bigger. This gives them an advantage over weeds. Also, placing nutrients within easy reach means less is wasted.
Before you start banding
Before jumping on the fertilizer bandwagon (sorry, I couldn't resist), you need to learn what is in your soil. You can't know what to add if you don't know what is missing. Most Morgan Hill soil already has an abundance of phosphorus, but yours might not. Adding more could be detrimental to your plants, and it's a waste of money.
Adding any unnecessary fertilizer also puts the environment at risk. Before adding fertilizer to your soil, find a reputable, local soil test company and submit samples for testing. The results are fascinating and useful. (Over-the-counter soil test kits are not useful yet.) If your soil already has plenty of everything, banding is unnecessary. If your soil is lacking any of the big three plant nutrients, banding can help your seeds overcome this handicap.
Choosing the right fertilizer for banding
All fertilizers are required to provide information about the percentage by weight of nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potassium (K). This means that a 10-pound bag of 10-20-10 fertilizer contains 1 pound nitrogen, 2 pounds phosphorous, 1 pound potassium, and 7 pounds of filler. After you have gotten the results from your soil test, you can select the best fertilizer for your crop.
Banding at planting time
After removing summer's bounty and preparing your garden for cool season crops, make two rows for each row of seed, instead of one. One row is for the seeds and should be the recommended depth, depending on the type of plant. The row next to it should be two inches deeper and two inches to the side. Lightly apply fertilizer to the deeper row and plant your cool season crops in the shallower row. Cover both rows with soil and add a little water.
Before you know it, your cool weather crops will be thriving, all thanks to good information and a little banding.
You can learn more about winter gardening at the South County Teaching and Demo Garden, found at St. Louise Hospital, 9400 No Name Uno, in Gilroy. Free classes are regularly offered to the public.
For more information, check our events page or call 408-282-3105 between 9:30 a.m. and 12:30 p.m., Monday through Friday.
by UC Master Gardener Kate Russell
Photo: University of Massachusetts Course website, PLSOIL 120, Organic Farming and Gardening, Guide for Fertilization of Horticultural Crops
This article first appeared in the November 8 – 21, 2017 issue of Morgan Hill Life.
Assuming that the Morgan Hill area gets its much needed rain this winter, growing flowers and vegetables during the winter months can provide a delicious harvest, while reducing erosion and promoting soil health. So what can you do to care for your winter crops?
Add organic soil amendments
Whether you plan for your garden to work or rest this winter, adding organic soil amendments now can replenish nitrogen levels and improve soil structure. Popular soil amendments include alfalfa pellets, blood meal, and fish emulsion. Aged manure or compost can also be dug in, or used as a top or side dressing to feed winter crops right away, or spring crops later in the season.
Mulch! Mulch! Mulch!
The benefits of mulching cannot be overstated. Covering the ground with two to six inches of mulch is one of the best ways to protect your Morgan Hill crops and soil. Mulching prevents runoff and erosion. It stabilizes soil temperatures and makes it more difficult for weeds to get started. You can often get free wood mulch from local tree trimmers. Just be sure to keep mulch a few inches away from tree trunks and plant stems. Continuous exposure to moisture can lead to fungal diseases.
Cut your losses
Some summer annuals may be hanging on, but they are not going to benefit anyone except local pests. Dead and dying summer plants can play host to many different pests and diseases. Toss diseased plant material in the trash and compost everything else. This is also a good time to prune fruit and nut trees. Cut out any dead, diseased, or crossed limbs. Do not prune apricot trees or grape vines in the rainy season, or you may create an entry point for Eutypa dieback, a fungal disease that can kill a tree or vine.
New plantings
While colder temperatures slow the growth of most plants, there are still several cool season crops you can start in October.
These crops include artichoke, arugula, asparagus, beets, bok choy, Napa cabbage, chard, cilantro, collards, dill, fennel, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, peas, radishes, spinach, and turnips.
Late summer plantings of broccoli, cauliflower, fava beans, leeks, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage should be well on their way by now. Adding side dressings and mulch can provide nutrients and protection to these cool weather crops.
You can learn more about winter gardening at the South County Teaching and Demo Garden, found at St. Louise Hospital, 9400 No Name Uno, in Gilroy. Free classes are regularly offered to the public.
For more information, check our events page or call 408-282-3105 between 9:30 a.m. and 12:30 p.m., Monday through Friday.
by UC Master Gardener Kate Russell
This article first appeared in the October 25 – November 7 issue of Morgan Hill Life.
