But what if late summer – and then early fall – happen to slip right by? And there you are with the first week of November staring you in the face. Too late to plant most of the delicious veggies I've listed above, my friend. But no worries, you can still plant garlic! Placed an inch or so beneath the soil, 6 inches from each other, in rows 12-16 inches apart, each clove will wait patiently underground until temperatures are just cool enough to trigger germination. Water your garlic enough to keep the soil moist until you see slender green leaves poking up to remind you that, yes, there is in fact something planted in that bed.
If you plant garlic now, it will be ready to harvest by early summer. Watch for the green tops to turn yellow, which is a good indicator to stop watering them. Allow them to dry out for a week or two in the ground and then lift the bulbs carefully out of the ground. Avoid nicking them as damaged garlic doesn't store well. Find a warm, dry place to hang your garlic for 2-3 weeks, then trim back the roots and top growth. Once the skin of the garlic bulbs feels papery, then it's time to store them in a cool (not too cold or it will sprout), well-ventilated spot. I'm usually able to grow and store enough of garlic to supply my allium-infatuated household for most of the year. In just 60 square feet. And I always set aside a few heads for re-planting in fall.
There are a number of online vendors who sell high quality, organically produced seed garlic. It's usually best to order it several months before planting time, so at this point you may find that their selection is pretty limited. However, even if UPS isn't delivering garlic to your doorstep (I forgot to order mine on time this year) local nurseries and feed stores usually have heads of garlic for sale to save the day. If you've never experienced the juicy, spicy cloves of fresh garlic that snap (not bend) between your fingers, then now is your chance. Go plant some!
by UC Master Gardener Cayce Hill
This article first appeared in the October 12 issue of the Morgan Hill Life.
Garlic, a member of the Allium — onion — family, is easy to grow and takes up very little space in the garden.
There are more than 600 varieties of garlic grown, and although China produces most of the world's garlic, California produces more than any state in the nation.
Garlic is believed to prevent cardiovascular problems, reduce cholesterol and lower blood pressure, and has been used to treat asthma, diabetes, atherosclerosis and a host of other ailments.
Santa Clara Master Gardener Sue Zaslaw, an expert on the stinking rose, says homegrown garlic is more nutritious and much more flavorful than supermarket garlic. By growing your own, you can choose the varieties based on size, shape and, of course, taste.
Sue inspired me so much that I planted seven varieties last fall. I was completely surprised by how different each tasted and the assortment of cloves' sizes.
Most garlic is either hardneck, with a hard, woody center stalk, or softneck, which lacks a central stalk. Hardnecks tend to have fewer cloves — 4 to 12 — and have more flavor. They grow well in cooler climates, but don't store as long as softnecks. They also produce flowering tops, called scapes, that are delicious when cooked.
Softnecks can produce up to 30 cloves and have a milder taste. The stalks can be braided for hanging storage. If you have both, use your hardnecks first as they will not last as long as the softnecks.
The best time for planting garlic is now through the end of November. Break the bulbs into individual cloves just before planting. Remove the outer papery wrapping, but be sure to leave the covering on the individual cloves.
Plant pointed side up, 2 inches deep in well-draining, well-amended soil. Space cloves 4 to 6 inches apart in rows that are 10 to 12 inches apart. Fertilize once after planting and once again in the spring when the weather warms up.
Make sure your soil or planting medium is damp before planting. Garlic likes water, but not too much or it will rot. If we have winter rains, you won't need to provide supplemental water, but if we have a dry winter, water when the soil dries out.
Harvest in June or July when the tops begin to turn yellow or brown and are starting to fall over. Carefully lift the bulbs out of the soil using a spade or garden fork, and let them cure in an airy, shady spot for a couple of weeks before using.
Once dry, brush off the excess soil and trim off the roots and leaves. Braid softnecks together and hang them in a cool, dry location. For hardnecks, or if you don't want to braid softnecks, cut off the roots and tops, and store them loosely in wire baskets, mesh bags, or on a slotted shelf. They need good air circulation to prevent rotting. With proper storage, your garlic will keep for about a year.
You should harvest up to 10 times the amount of garlic that you planted. Save some of the biggest and best bulbs for next year's planting.
by UC Master Gardener Rebecca Jepsen
This article first appeared in the October 16 issue of the San Jose Mercury News.