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Elinor Teague

Welcome Elinor Teague

Elinor Teague
A note from Elinor Teague to the readers:  After writing gardening columns for the Fresno Bee for 18 years, it is a pleasure to be able to continue to offer readers gardening advice and tips here on the Fresno County Master Gardeners’ website. 

Catch her on KYNO for the "Master Gardener Minute" on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday at 7:40am, 1:40pm, and 5:40pm. 

Readers’ questions and comments are always welcome. 

Our Garden Helpline is working remotely by e-mail only.

 Questions? Send an email to mgfresno@ucanr.edu 

Including photos is helpful.  We are looking forward to hearing from you!

 

  • When there are summer heat spikes, trees need more water

    Jul 1, 2024

    Here in the Central Valley, summer heat spikes are becoming more frequent and lasting longer with extremely high daytime and nighttime temperatures. Regular deep, slow irrigation of mature landscape and crop-producing trees is key to keeping them in good health during heat spikes. The goal is to maintain soil moisture in root zones at a depth of 1 to 2 feet. 

    We need to deep irrigate more frequently than the previously recommended once a month and deep irrigation must begin at least one day before temps are predicted to be above 95 to 100 degrees for several days.

    Check soil moisture levels underneath large landscape trees and deep irrigate whenever the top 5 to 6 inches of soil is dry. That could be several times a month from June to October. Younger trees and bushes planted within the last three years also may need several soakings a month. Soaker hoses are the most efficient and effective means of delivering deep slow irrigation at the outer edges of the canopy where the feeder roots lie but small oscillating sprinklers will also work. Drip emitters are not as effective. It will take at least 3 to 4 hours of slow irrigation for water to penetrate and soak the root zone. 

    Insufficient water is the most common cause of poor crop set and premature fruit and nut drop. Fruit and nut trees need regular deep irrigation to maintain consistently moist soil from bloom until harvest time. Citrus trees need sufficient water in spring to set fruit and regular deep irrigation in summer through fall in order to hold and produce good-sized, juicy fruit.

    During heat spikes, monitor soil moisture levels under citrus trees and deep irrigate whenever the top three to four inches of soil has dried. Plan on irrigating citrus every 3 to 4 days during heat spikes in July and August and once a week during the warm fall months.

    Cool-climate redwood trees have been heavily planted in the hot and arid Central Valley to provide dense shade. Often in spaces too small for the mature tree. As a common practice, redwood trees are thinned and lower branches are removed. The heavy branch structure on redwoods creates a cooler microclimate in the interior of the canopy and thinning and removing branches on redwoods exposes the trunk and bark to the hot rays of the sun and high temperatures.  

    In July, the inner needles on redwood trees will turn brown and fall. It's a normal process referred to as redwood dieback. The fallen needles form a thick mulch that will help cool the soil for these shallow-rooted trees and also slow evaporation. Redwoods will benefit from increased deep slow irrigation in summer.

    Branch tip dieback is the earliest and most visible sign of drought-stress. Even one long-lasting heat spike without sufficient irrigation can cause tip die back on any type tree. Gusty winds now often accompany heat spikes. Dead branches can become hazardous projectiles and should be trimmed off when noticed, but corrective pruning to reshape branch scaffolding should wait until deciduous trees are dormant in late fall and winter. 


  • Abundant rainfall spurs tree growth, which may require pruning

    Jun 2, 2024

    After two consecutive years of normal and above-normal rainfall, trees, hedges and bushes whose growth was constrained during the drought years have shown a huge growth spurt this spring. My neighbor's magnificent loropetalum hedge is at least four feet taller and wider. The small ligustrum trees planted alongside my back fence increased twofold in size so that their branches reached into my neighbor's rain gutters; the flower clusters were enormous. The Meyer lemon tree in the center of my small backyard grew so large that the branches completely blocked the pathways.           

    It's so nice to have a lush garden again (however short the time until drought resumes) but the vigorous plant growth will cause problems this summer.

    Plants and trees that have suddenly outgrown their spaces this spring will obviously need to be trimmed back, but the trimming and pruning should not be a one-time major cut back. Reducing the size of the leaf canopy by more than 25 to 30 percent during the growing season removes too much of the plants' and trees' sources of energy and can cause stunted growth. A light pruning using thinning cuts to reshape the outer canopy of only those branches that are obstructing access or that risk causing property damage would be best during the summer. Leave the removal of larger branches and branch scaffold restructuring until winter when deciduous trees are dormant.

    The recent overgrowth on many plants will have shaded the soil underneath the larger canopy as well as the roots that extended to the edge of the enlarged canopy. Those roots may well die back in the hot soil. Expect to see some wilting and signs of heat stress after even moderate pruning.        

    The second caution on pruning overgrown plants this summer involves the risk of sunburn on newly exposed interior wood. We can expect that the Central Valley will experience several heat spikes, or long periods of high daytime temperatures (above 100 degrees) along with warm nighttime temperatures, in the next few months. Sunburn is a common problem on hedges that are pruned heavily during the summer in the Central Valley with the hedge tops showing most of the damage from the sun's rays. It's best to shear hedges lightly and frequently, every six to eight weeks, in the summer. To help reduce damage from sunburn, use a mixture of half water/half white latex paint on exposed wood, especially on citrus and other fruit and nut trees, to reflect some of the sun's harsh rays. The open center or vase-shaped pruning system on most fruit and nut trees should be maintained in the summer months.

    The UC ANR publication 8057 on pruning deciduous trees has line drawings of several pruning methods and a glossary of pruning terms, which provide very basic pruning information. A long time favorite pruning guide, Orthos' ‘All About Pruning,' is once again out of print but worth searching for in used book stores for its excellent detailed descriptions, drawings and photos of the proper pruning techniques specific to many tree and bush species. DK Publishing (one of the best publishers of garden books) has “Grow Pruning and Training" ISBN 9780744026832, $12.99, which seems to be a good replacement for the Ortho guide. 


Read Elinor's past articles