Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request: Good Morning Gardeners! I drive by your beautiful community garden (MGCC's “Our Garden” in Walnut Creek) every morning on the way to my daughter's preschool in the Shadelands area. I've noticed that you've already covered your citrus trees for frost protection. I have a small backyard orchard with 5 citrus trees...4 of them with fruit on now, and I have not covered them yet.
I have these dark colored tree covers that I bought and use (basically a large cloth bag, kind of like an outdoor patio chair cover with a drawstring at the base of the tree), but the directions that came with them advise removing them by day so the tree can receive light. It's a hassle putting them on by night and taking them off each morning. What do you use? Do they allow light in and for how many days in a row can they safely stay on the tree without harming the tree? Can the same covers be used in the springtime when my mandarin is flowering to keep bees off and keep the fruit seedless? Thank you so much for your advice! Happy Holidays.
You probably noticed that the covers at Our Garden are white, and are designed to let some light through so they can be left on for several days at a time. You can buy such “frost blankets” at garden centers or online- one brand that I know of is called 'Agribon' They are a lightweight, non-woven material, and come in different weights. You also asked about using this for keeping bees off your mandarins: I would not use the heavier frost blanket for this, but you could use the lighter weight 'row cover' which is often used to keep various moths and bugs off vegetables. Most nurseries and/or hardware stores should stock this or similar types of frost cloth.
Here is a link to an online source which sells these “cloths”, and it has some good information on its use. This is a commercial link, and we do not endorse any particular business, but I include it as it may be helpful to you. https://www.groworganic.com/frost-and-sun-protection/frost-protection/frost-blankets.html. There are many other online suppliers that can be found by Googling “frost protection cloth”.
For now, the covers that you have been using most likely are doing a good job, but being dark in color need to be removed during the day to let light to the plant. If you can provide a frame around the plant to keep the cloth from touching the leaves, that will work best. Here is a UC link with helpful information: http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/8100.pdf
You also asked how long the covers can be left on. I can't give you an exact number of days, but the plant should be fine for a few days at a time. I personally use these covers, and I generally leave them attached to the framework, and try to pull them back on warm days to get some airflow and/or sunlight to the plant. I make hoop structures out of re-bar and PVC pipe, and find that kitchen clips (such as you would use for chip bags) are a quick and easy way to attach the cloth to the frame. You can see pictures of such a structure here: http://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=22776 You can anchor the PVC hoops with 2 foot lengths of re-bar pounded into the ground (make sure the diameter of the re-bar is less than the internal diameter of the pipe!)
I hope this is helpful, and if you have further questions please don't hesitate to get back to us.
Happy Holidays to you, and good luck with your citrus.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SMW)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round (except the last two weeks of December) to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925)646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/)
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client: I've heard various local home gardeners talking about planting the “3 sisters” in their vegetable garden. I think they are discussing corn, beans, and squash. Why would I want to plant the 3 sisters?
MGCC Help Desk: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk regarding growing the “3 sisters.”
There are many variations on the 3 sisters garden, but the most traditional layout is something like this: several corn kernels planted in a circle, beans planted close to the corn, and then the squash planted in a wider circle around the inner plantings.
This layout works great for growing dry corn and dry beans. If, however, you'd like to grow sweet corn and snap beans, you should consider an alternative. When growing dry corn and beans, everything is ready for harvest at the same time. But, fresh corn and beans will be ready before squash. You're probably not going to want to carefully step around your pumpkins or watermelon every time you harvest beans or corn, and the squash leaves probably won't appreciate being stepped on either.
In the above situation, an alternate layout is best. Rows of corn with beans planted in between is a great variation, with the option to plant some squash along one side. This variation has the added benefit of increased pollination for the corn. If you have a good amount of space, beans, corn, and squash can be planted in linear plots and used for crop rotation. From left to right, plant squash, then corn, then beans. Each subsequent season, move each crop to the right, so the corn and squash can benefit from the nitrogen-fixed soil the beans grew in.
Companion planting can become a complex set of decisions. You will want to consider the variety of plants you wish to grow and then consider which do well together and which can exacerbate problems by, for example, attracting the same pests. Information regarding companion planting can be found at:
http://marinmg.ucanr.edu/Marin_Master_Gardener_Independent_Journal_Articles/?uid=430&ds=275.
We wish you continued success with your gardening, especially growing the 3 sisters. Please do not hesitate to contact Master Gardeners again if you have further questions.
Help Desk of the Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (KR)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round (except the last two weeks of December) to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925)646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/)
/span>Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request: Hello, I'm looking for advice. We planted Agrostis pallens (native bent grass) for turf in our back yard. We've been following the advice of the grower. Instructions don't account for cooler season weather. After 2-3 weeks when the grass appears to be rooting well and very green, we are now watering less (seems like too much perhaps) at 7 min duration at 7 a.m. and 10 a.m. for the past 4 days or so. As it is so much cooler this past few days, I'm thinking once a day, but even that seems like a lot. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
MGCC Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program with your question about watering your newly planted native bent grass (Agrostis pallens).
If the grass appears to be rooting well, you should be able to cut back on the watering. In fact, given the recent rains you can probably stop the irrigation if they continue every 3-4 days. First, however, you should check the moisture level in the soil. The soil should be moist at least six inches down. You can use a screwdriver or other long object to probe the moisture depth. If the moisture has not penetrated to six inches, you should consider a deep watering. (Be careful not to over saturate the soil, as too much water can prevent the development of deep roots). You may want to recheck the moisture level after any extended dry periods, although our typical heavy clay soils should do a good job of maintaining soil moisture.
For more information on irrigating new lawns, please see: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/ESTABLISH/irrigatenew.html
Once the grass is fully established, you may need to water only after the first two inches of soil have dried out, or, according to the California Native Plant Society, possibly only two to three times a month in the summer.
For information on when to irrigate established lawns, please see: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/MAINTAIN/irrwhen.html
You may also be interested in the California Native Plant Society information on landscaping with Agrostis pallens: http://calscape.org/Agrostis-pallens-(Thingrass)?srchcr=sc5a20d5a40ec7f
I hope this information is helpful. Please let us know if you have further questions.
Enjoy your new native lawn!
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (ECS)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round (except the last two weeks of December) to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925)646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/)
/span>Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request: I went on Tuesday evening to a very good presentation at the Lafayette Library by Master Gardeners. I had a question that the presenters could not answer and their advice was to ask it directly to the Help Desk -- so, here it is....
I have planted a new garden with native plants and have not added any amendment to support the plants' growth. I read online that mycorrhizal fungi can be added after the plant has been set in the ground and it will enable healthier root and plan growth. Is that correct?
Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener program regarding mycorrhizal fungi and your native garden. We know that plants and mycorrhizal fungi live in a symbiotic relationship, very beneficial to both species. The fungi colonize the plant roots, helping with uptake of water and minerals. It is well known that plants in healthy soils with good mycorrhizal colonization are much healthier. You can promote this by appropriate irrigation, minimizing soil disturbance by not tilling, and limiting fertilizer, especially phosphorus. Also, using a surface mulch will help.
There have been many studies on the effects of mycorrhizae on growing plants, which show definite benefits, but it is not clear that adding them to an existing landscape is helpful. There are many different species of mycorrhizae, and it seems that they need to be adapted to the particular environment or plant species, and if you add 'foreign' ones, those native fungi already present may defend their territory and your garden will receive little or no benefit. Also, one study that I know of looked at viability of commercially available mycorrhizae inoculants and found that some did not have any live ones! That being said, if you still want to try this, a reputable and appropriate source should be used.
If your garden was prepared appropriately, and the plants are healthy and thriving, and you are using mulch, it should be fine without adding the mycorrhizae. In addition, I could not find any recommendation to add mycorrhizae for this situation on the California Native Plant Society website: http://www.cnps.org/cnps/grownative/getstarted/starting_a_garden.php
I hope this has been helpful and that your garden will thrive. If you have further questions, please feel free to contact us again.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SMW)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925)646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/)
/span>Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client: Is it possible to plant a nitrogen-fixing winter cover crop simultaneously with wildflower seeds…..or will they just compete for space? Thanks for your answer.
MGCC Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program with your question about planting a nitrogen-fixing winter cover crop together with wildflower seeds.
There are some alternatives, but they may not be optimum for what you want to achieve. One is to plant the cover crop first and then the wildflower seeds after the cover crop has been dug in. The problem there is that may lead you to digging in the cover crop too early, or more likely, planting the wildflower seeds too late. Wildflowers seeds can be sown in early spring, but October to January is generally the best time to sow wildflower seeds. Otherwise, I am afraid that you will need to decide between planting a cover crop or wildflowers. If you are planning to turn the area into a wildflower garden, and are planting California native wildflowers, you could skip the cover crop since native wildflowers generally do not need a lot of nitrogen. On the other hand, if you are planning on turning the area into a vegetable garden, I would recommend planting the cover crop seeds and perhaps planting the wildflowers in another area of the yard.
Another option you could consider would be getting a cover crop mixture that would provide different flowers. You might find these mixtures at your local nursery as well as on-line.
You can find some basic information from UC on growing cover crops at: http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/files/filelibrary/5842/25997.pdf
Note that this is a bit out-of-date in its comment about cover crop seeds being hard to find; that is no longer true. It also mentions rototilling. You can just cut the plants down and dig them in.
Here is also some information from the California Native Plant Society on planting wildflower seeds: https://www.cnpsmarin.org/native-plants/how-to/item/185-marin-cnps-sowing-wildflower-seeds
I hope that you find this information helpful. Please let us know if you have further questions.
Good luck with your winter garden!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (ECS)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925)646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/)
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