- Author: Kathy Low
If you love eating artichokes but hate paying the high prices for them at the supermarket, consider growing your own perennial artichoke plant. Last spring I purchased a baby globe artichoke plant at a big box store on a whim while I was purchasing my tomato starts. I plopped the plant into the ground. But since putting the plant in the ground until February of this year the plant was literally ignored. Due to a series of surgeries over the last eight months, I was unable to physically get out into my backyard. So last year any artichokes on the plant were never harvested and ended up flowering. But despite the total neglect, the plant seems to be resilient and is now producing a new crop of artichokes.
According to the UC Vegetable Research Information Center website, globe artichokes don't reproduce true from seed so it's best to start with a nursery plant grown from a root division. They grow best in fertile well drained soil. It's best to mix in compost into the soil before planting. During the growing season they need regular weekly irrigation.
Artichoke plants grow up to four feet tall and six feet wide. So if planting more than one plant, be sure to allow for their growth.
To propagate artichoke plants, dig up a healthy plant and divide the root into two. Replant the root, and the new root section in an irrigated hole six to eight inches deep. Remember to plant them at least six feet apart from one another.
For more information on growing globe artichokes, read the document Growing Artichokes at http://vric.ucdavis.edu/pdf/artichoke_GrowingArtichokes.pdf and Globe Artichokes at http://vric.ucdavis.edu/pdf/ARTICHOKE/artichoke_HomeGarden.pdf
- Author: Betty Homer
Last summer, while touring a hydroponic urban farm in Oakland, I discovered an unfamiliar salad green that I have to come to love--French Sorrel (Rumex scutatus) which is native to south central Europe and southwest Asia. This plant has a surprising taste—it has a strong, lemony kick. Up until this time, the only thing that I had known about sorrel of any kind, was that it grew in the rolling hillsides that dot Highway 12 in Solano County and that the sheep that graze out there, love their sorrel.
French Sorrel is an easy-to-care for perennial. From my experience in having grown it for a year in my yard in Suisun, I have found that it is not fussy nor does not seem to be susceptible to disease or pestilence. The only thing I have had to do is cut off the flowers as the plant begins to “bolt” (not bolt in the truest sense like with lettuce where the lettuce leaves turn bitter). As for growth habit, French Sorrel grows approximately 1 foot tall and 3 feet wide. It requires full sun to part shade, and moist, well-drained soil. You harvest the leaves as needed (“cut and come again”) and it does not take long before the plant regenerates more leaves.
This plant lives to give. Locally, I purchased mine from Morningsun Herb Farm in Vacaville, although like most plants, it is not always stocked.
- Author: Betsy Buxton
Spring seems to appearing or at least for today. The weeds are flourishing as only spring weeds can and the sun is bright and warm. Throughout winter, I was pondering on how the “warmer” rainy weather would affect plants such as the magnolias in the front yard as well as the Weigela. The magnolia, a star variety, has done exceptionally well – the small tree completely covered in multi-petaled white flowers who gently dance in the breezes. Those flowers started budding out before the last hard rain and still look fresh. The Weigela, well it looks like a Weigela after winter; this means that the limbs are bare and deadish looking. I'm hoping it recovers and starts leafing out with the hot pink leaves. but we shall see. As usual, I'm not doing anything to it until much later when it will become beautiful again OR compost!
The daffodils, oh the daffodils, which never disappoint have been in bloom for weeks now! The early blooming varieties are edging the driveway and walkway with gold, orange and red trumpets framed in gold and yellow petals. My neighbor stopped by to tell me how much she enjoys seeing the yard from her front windows and wished she too could have the delicate, bobbing color in her yard. Unfortunately, between the boys playing and the dog running over there, she would have broken stems only sagging in the breeze.
The weed eater needs to be started and used in the backyard, but that will have to wait until next week when the back is ready (mine that is) and soil beneath is drier. There is plenty to be said about living less than 6 feet above sea level, but fast drying of the clay soil is not one of them. When I mentioned this problem to other gardeners, the solutions suggested include finding a short mountain and then clearing the top off for a level planting area!
On my immediate list are moving 4 clematis over to the side of the shed to help visualize how long and deep the new planting box should be. The others clematises will need to go on the wire trellis by the fence. There is an evergreen C. armandi there now, but the folks who were hired to spray the preservative coating didn't seem to understand the concept of spraying AROUND the clematis not through or on it! After 15 years in the ground, the poor thing is dead to just above the ground. I cut it back to 6 inches from its length of 15 feet and am hoping like heck the root decides to sprout again. I guarantee you no fence person will spray on a fence around me again!
Having hoed the weeds in the front “lawn” again next comes the mulch and the final irrigation connections, and I'm done. Like right!! We all know nothing is ever done in the garden: weeds grow, plants sometimes need replacing, and we find other “treasures” to find a home for! Speaking of treasures, don't forget that the succulent exchange will again be held on April 16 from 9am until noon at the UC Cooperative Extension office in Fairfieldl! Flyers will be out!
Until then, enjoy the weather and take it easy!
- Author: Trisha Rose
Recently I wrote for one of our local papers on this topic. My guess is, this conversation could go on for awhile. Thought I would share what is on my mind now. The garden is now “lawn-free” with a mass of river pebbles covering a lot of the backyard. There are planting beds securing each corner and large raised beds along with thriving Washington Navel citrus trees anchoring the back border. We are not done designing how we are going to use this garden so I thought it is time to start thinking about design checklists. I have used checklists my whole life so I will use that same tool now. Here is the design checklist I am using.
Screening: the need to block out an eyesore is a common situation we face in urban areas. It could be a utility box, an exposed foundation, an air conditioning unit, neighboring houses, or just a desire for a space that will offer a sense of retreat. I'll be on the lookout this spring for design solutions while I enjoy our local garden tours. Last year I saw an elegant use of bamboo that effectively blocked a very close next door neighbor's house. One of my favorite reference books, The Sunset New Western Garden Book, includes an extensive listing of options for choosing which Bamboo might work best for you as well as how to plant and care for your bamboo.
Soften a wall or a fence: My retaining wall serves a very necessary purpose but grey concrete blocks aren't really that attractive. I just planted Agave attenuata across the base of the wall, they should get well established between now and the heat of summer. Other options I've considered are Bougainvillea or a prostrate Rosmarinus officinalis to spread across with beautiful color as a bonus, whatever you choose make sure that pruning can be done safely.
Shade areas: Choose perennials and shrubs that prefer shade, or if you have the space and a good source of water, add the beautiful Japanese maples that thrive in filtered shade. Our local nurseries have sections devoted to these plants. I have found that shopping locally leads to more successful plant choices. Local nursery staff know our soils and weather conditions. They know from experience which cultivars will thrive in Solano County, l have learned to trust our local nurseries and cultivate their friendship.
Dress up a driveway: Place groundcovers and/or decorative rocks or bricks in a pattern alongside the pavement. Even a simple repeating pattern of bricks will add stability and interest to these areas. I started working on this project last year. My neighbor and I added pavers to the area between our narrow walkways. We pull out the trash bins every week along side these walkways, now with the extra width of the brick pavers, this chore is safer and the area is more attractive. My neighbor planted Stachys byzantina, a hardy and long lived groundcover also known as “lamb's ear”, in this shared space and I spread some Alyssum seeds over the soil once the bricks were in place, the sweet fragrance and cheerful white and lavender flowers are an unexpected bonus and volunteer Nasturtium and donated succulents fill up this former bare space.
Surround a deck or planting bed: Adding a border of succulents or groundcovers along the edges of planting beds adds interest and softens the concrete edges. I added some succulent starts late this summer just after the lawn was removed. The succulents will not need much water and are very easy to care for. Placing groundcovers at the edge inside the concrete borders allows drip irrigation to water the plants, which will eventually grow over the concrete borders and soften these edges.
Lampposts and mailboxes: Often these utility items are left bare and the posts frequently show the scarring from years of weed-eaters snapping against the wooden posts. With just a little time and very little effort these unattractive utilities can be transformed into an attractive focal point. Add a drought tolerant succulent border with some decorative pebbles to dress up these areas or plant ornamental grasses to surround mailbox posts, pay attention to the mature height when making your plant choices. You don't want the plants to be a nuisance to your mail carriers. The height of the grasses adds softness and movement to the garden.
Bare spaces: Add tough perennials such as Agaves, Salvias, or Cistus or long lived ground covers.
Add personality to create a cohesive design: Think about your garden in terms of a theme. Maybe you desire a fanciful country cottage, a clean lined mid-century look or a breezy Mediterranean look. Decide on your preference and stick with it. When you shop for plants, hardscape or outdoor furniture, mention your design theme to help the sales staff guide you to choices that will fit with your theme. Also it is so easy these days to spend time gathering ideas on Pinterest, and so many other websites and magazines. Gather your favorite design and color preferences.
Finished look: Sometimes less is more. Let your work standout, too much clutter even in a country cottage can cover up your work. Let your work show and grow naturally. You don't want such a crowded space that you are out there pruning all the time, or not. Give your plants room to spread naturally and get the sun they need.
My last thought, add organic matter such as compost and mulch then add some more, your garden will thank you.
- Author: Mike Gunther
Old Man Winter's Breath
Warming so Spring can Awake
Welcome New Blossoms