- Author: Sherry Richards
Love succulents and want to add your collection, start a collection or learn more about their care and how to design with them? If you do….
Don't miss the UCCE Gardeners-Solano Second Annual Succulent Extravaganza Plant Sale & Educational Event! We will have lots of beautiful succulents for sale and two classes with Master Gardener speakers: “Easy Succulent Propagation” and “Designing with Succulents”. Plus, a silent auction, a room with interesting and odd types of succulents for sale. It will be lots of fun and UCCE Master Gardeners will be available to answer your questions about succulents and other gardening questions!
This a fundraiser and all monies benefit our local community activities. We hope to see you there!
- Author: Launa Herrmann
There are over 300 varieties of Japanese maples—slow growers and fast growers; some with one trunk, others with multiple. Japanese maples range in height from 20 feet tall to dwarf at 5' or less. Their beauty is in their shape from weeping, cascading, mounding or horizontal branching trees to upright growers with rounded dome-shaped crowns. Your tree's natural growth habit is its greatest asset. That's why it's important to stop, look at your tree and know its shape before you dust off your pruners. In other words, walk around it and then step back and see the whole of it. Your objective is not to change the shape of your tree but to encourage its natural shape. For colorful photos of several varieties, check out “The Complete Japanese Maple Guide” at https://www.thetreecenter.com/complete-japanese-maple-guide/
Yearly pruning is rarely recommended for Japanese maples. However, tidying up the tree by clearing out the deadwood is vital. By cutting out these brittle twigs and dead branches, you open up the tree's interior space for light to penetrate and for air to circulate between branches. You'll know that a stem or branch is not deadwood if you see a bud. (See photo below) Also recommended is the removal of branches that rub against other limbs and branches that cross over the midline of the tree. The general rule is don't hack off more than the half the total mass of your tree. Experts say with a laceleaf maple try to create “a shell-like growth” that shields the trunk. Remember before you make any cut, ask what effect it could have on your tree. I found helpful information and illustrations on the following links: https://www.swansonsnursery.com/japanese-maple-pruning and http://www.gardenality.com/Articles/340/How-To-Info/Prunning/How-To-Prune-A-Japanese-Maple/default.html
- Author: Janet Snyder
- Author: Mike Gunther
- Author: Mary B. Gabbard
If you love potatoes but have never tasted a homegrown one…now is the time!
Potatoes are very easy to grow, and speaking from experience, there is something magical about planting 1 little tuber and pulling up a basket of potatoes. I began planting potatoes in 2002, thinking it would be a great way to begin teaching my kids how to garden. I can't tell you how fun it was to see their faces as we kept digging and digging and pulling up one potato after another.
So, let's get started:
- Most gardeners agree that potatoes can be planted 2 weeks before the last freeze. The last freeze for Zone 9 is 2/24/20, which means you can put tubers in the ground any time after the first week of February.
- First step…A trip to your local hardware store. At a storeinVacaville, I was able to find the following tubers:
- ‘White Superior': harvest 85-90 days after planting.
- ‘Red Borland': harvest 65 days after planting.
- Red, white, and blue blend: late spring-early summer harvest. (Some pictured on package look like fingerling)
- Preparation before planting…Once you bring your tubers home, which actually look like mini potatoes, get them ready to plant. You can choose to plant your small seed potatoes whole; however, I like to cut my seed potatoes into smaller pieces, making sure I have at least one to three eyes per piece. (My pieces are usually about the size of an ice cube.) Once cut, I leave them on my countertop for a few days. This step helps your cut-pieces form a callous, reducing the risk of diseases.
- Let's plant…Potatoes prefer rich, moist soil. If this doesn't sound like your soil, amend the soil before planting with organic matter which will enhance growth. I add homegrown compost to my raised beds, if I'm a bit short, I will buy a bag or two of soil amendment or bags of organic compost. This is an important step as poorly drained soil may cause your growing potatoes to rot. Using a raised bed to grow your potatoes works great because they have a very shallow root system. This shallow root system means a light watering once or twice a week will keep them growing. Plant in a sunny spot to encourage strong growth.
- The growing process…Once you begin to see green shoots coming up from the soil, begin to bring the dirt up around the base of the plant. This helps to keep the tubers covered support as well as the plant. (Sometimes, I find, I must add additional organic matter.). Bringing the dirt around the base of the plant is called ‘hilling', which helps to keep the potatoes from getting sunburned. The last hilling should be done before the potato plants bloom when the plant is about 6 inches tall. Don't omit this step as a sunburned potato may turn green, producing a chemical called solanine. Solanine not only makes the tubers taste bitter but more importantly…is toxic!
- Harvest and Storage…Once you find your potato tops turning yellow and dying back, it's time to harvest. Just keep digging until you hit the jackpot. Meaning, lots of potatoes! One more step before eating is drying or curing your potatoes. This can take as little as 4-5 days, allowing the surface of the potato time to harden and minor injuries to seal. If you have a big harvest, store your potatoes in a cool, dark, well-ventilated area. Potatoes can be stored for up to 6 months.
- If you're interested in additional information: