Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Response from the Help Desk: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk about your Coral Charm Peony
The brown areas you are seeing on your flowers are most likely the result of a fungus. The most common fungal disease on peonies, especially herbaceous peonies like Coral Charm, is botrytis blight (Botrytis cinerea). Botrytis blight can cause flowers to become discolored. It can also cause buds to soften, which may be why you might find that the flower bud is also squishy. If this is botrytis, you are seeing it in a mild form.
like all fungus diseases, botrytis is most likely to occur in wet, humid weather. To help prevent the problem from spreading, make sure you remove and destroy any fallen leaves or other debris under the plants. Place the debris in your green bin or trash. Avoid putting it in your compost pile. Prune out and dispose of any dying tissue you may find on the plants. Avoid use of sprinklers or other overhead watering. If possible, irrigate early in the morning to allow foliage to dry more quickly. If these new plants have dense foliage, you may want to prune some of the canopy to provide better air circulation.
If the plants fail to thrive and you need to replant, consider waiting until the fall. Autumn is the best time to plant peonies.
For more information on preventing botrytis blight, see http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/DISEASES/botrytis.html
For general information on growing peonies, see http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FLOWERS/peony.html
Good luck with your new peonies. Let's hope that the warmer and drier summer weather helps your peonies return to health
Please let us know if you have further questions
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (ECS)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
/span>Help for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client: I need help identifying the alliums in my backyard garden. These alliums have been growing in the backyard for 20+ years on their own. I always thought they were leeks but after pulling one out the other day to examine it, I'm not sure what it is anymore. It smells like an onion but it doesn't have all of the layers. Thank you for your help!
The description of A. triquetum is:
• leaves are mid-green with a rib running up one side that makes them more rigid;
• spherical white bulbs that reproduce vegetatively by dividing;
• white flowers atop a triangular stem in April and May;
• the whole plant dies back after blooming and setting seed
You can compare the group of photos (right) of Allium triquetum to compare to yours.
However, what is a little confusing is that there are no flowers evident in your photos, and this makes me question the identification. If you could bring us a sample of your plants, we would be able to do a more positive identification. Or you could send us photos of the flowers and confirmation that your plants die back after flowering.
We look forward to hearing from you.
Help Desk of the Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SEH)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
/span>Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Help Desk Response: Thank you for emailing the photos of the spots on your blueberry leaves. While we are unable to specifically identify the disease with certainty, it is highly likely that the spots are caused by a type of Anthracnose leaf spot fungus.
This and most other fungus diseases thrive in cool wet weather such as we have had this past year. The Anthracnose fungus has been identified on blueberries by researchers at the University of Oregon. The University of California recommends a number of measures that can be undertaken to control fungus. In general, it is recommended that you select resistant varieties and planting should be in the full sun. Other recommended practices for reducing fungal diseases include the following:
- Prune diseased growth as it appears.
- Provide drip irrigation if possible, otherwise irrigate in the early morning using mini-sprinklers.
- Avoid over fertilizing.
- Prune in the winter to increase air circulation.
- Once you have cleaned up diseased material from the plant and soil, place a generous amount (3 inches deep) of mulch on the soil below the plant canopy. This will help trap fungal spores so they don't splash up and re-infect the plant.
Hopefully implementing these practices and the onset of dryer, hotter weather will reduce the spread and minimize damage caused by the fungus.
There are also a number of additional recommendations for how to plant blueberries in a manner that will increase the plant health and resistance to stressors including diseases. These include:
- Select a variety bred to do well in California soil and known to do well in hot areas. These include Emerald, Jewel and Star.
- Plant in acidic (pH of 4.5-5.5), well-drained soil.
Blueberries belong to the Ericaceae family, which also includes other acid-loving plants such as azalea and rhododendrons . These plants need higher acidity to uptake needed nutrients. Contra Costa soils are generally slightly acidic to moderately alkaline. You can test your soil pH using a kit purchased from your local nursery. If you need to increase acidity, amend the soil six months prior to planting with 6-12 lbs. of aluminum sulfate per 100 square feet of garden. This will increase acidity by one pH unit (from 6 to 5). Another option is to plant them in raised beds (8-18 inches high by 3-4 feet wide) or a large pot. This allows you to more easily manage the soil pH and drainage. - Plant in a location where there is minimal frost and wind.
- Add mulch, which is usually slightly acidic and releases beneficial elements gradually and supports beneficial microbial organisms. Liquid fertilizers can be too strong. If using, apply four weeks after planting with a 10-10-10 mixture and reduce the amount recommended on the label. If using organic fertilizer apply one pound of blood, feather, or fish meal for each plant.
- Irrigate to maintain moist but not wet soil as blueberry roots are vulnerable to root rot.
- Hand weed to avoid damaging fragile surface roots.
If you would like additional information about blueberry varieties and growing tips, you can find it at: http://ucanr.edu/sites/gardenweb/berries/blueberries/
In addition, the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County is holding a program on Successfully Growing Blueberries at "Our Garden" on May 17th from 9am to noon. The main program will be presented at 10am by Kathy Echols, long-time DVC horticulture instructor. Our Garden is located in Walnut Creek at the corner of N. Wiget Lane and Shadelands Drive.
Thank you for contacting our UC Master Gardener Program. Please feel free to re-contact us with further questions.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (NPH)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
/span>Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request: I am very excited because I just built some new raised beds for vegetables in my back yard. Previously, I have used mainly Earth Boxes and miscellaneous pots. But with the new garden area, I was wondering how best to mulch. In previous times, I used lawn clippings ‐ available free in my yard or from my neighbors. Now, my lawn is gone along with many others of my neighbors. I do have an abundance of last year's oak leaves, but I wondered if they might not be good for the plants. What is your opinion of using newspaper? Is hay (or straw) a good choice? Though I would have to buy that. Other suggestions?
Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your question about mulches. Most mulches help suppress weeds and retain moisture. Organic mulches (plant based) will decompose slowly and add nutrients to the soil. It is important to note that because soil organisms use nitrogen as they decompose the mulch, it should be used only on the surface to avoid nutrient deficiencies. Nitrogen eventually returns to the soil as organisms die.
For garden areas that are worked annually (your vegetable beds, for instance), it is best to use mulches that break down rapidly, such as rice straw, dried grass clippings or alfalfa. Oak leaves would be good to use for this, as long as they don't get matted down and prevent water from passing through. Shredding the leaves by running a lawn mower over them would prevent the matting if you experience the problem.
Newspapers could also work, but we wouldn't use them as a stand‐alone mulch. You may need to shred the newspaper some so that they aren't subject to matting. Newspapers can also easily blow away and looks a bit unsightly. You could layer another mulch material over it if you do choose to use it.
Straw is good for vegetable gardens. It is light weight and will break down over time. Make sure you use straw which shouldn't have weed seeds, while hay often contains copious weed seeds.
You want to stay away from bark or wood mulches because they take a long time to decompose, and you will need to rake them off whenever you change your vegetable crops.
To help in your decision on which mulch to use, I've attached a summary of the various types of mulches with their pros and cons. Please let us know if you have further questions.
Happy gardening!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SEH)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
/span>Mulch 6 Mar 2017
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Home Gardener's Request: Here are some recent pictures this spring of similarly affected peach trees in the County. Several home gardeners with peach trees affected with this problem have recently asked the Help Desk for any information about what this is and how to treat it.
MGCC's Help Desk Response: Thank you for the questions to the Master Gardener Program's Help Desk with your problems with your peach trees. Based upon our review, it looks like you have a very common fungus called Peach Leaf Curl. There are UC documents with links below that I urge you to read. They will help you care for your peach trees year-round which should help you control this disease.
Unfortunately, there is little you can do right now. Some pick off the distorted leaves, but there is little evidence that this improves control. The tree needs to be sprayed with a copper fungicide in the fall and again in late winter/early spring before buds break. The linked "pnleafcurl.pdf" article below will give you more specific information about proper control methods and products.
For example, it says: "Peach leaf curl, also known as leaf curl, is a disease caused by the fungus Taphrina deformans. Peach leaf curl affects the blossoms, fruit, leaves, and shoots of peaches, ornamental flowering peaches, and nectarines, and is one of the most common disease problems for backyard gardeners growing these trees.
The distorted, reddened foliage that it causes is easily seen in spring. When severe, the disease can reduce fruit production substantially...Normally, diseased leaves fall off within a few weeks and are replaced by new, healthy leaves, unless it is rainy.
If a tree is severely affected with peach leaf curl this can stunt its growth, so consider thinning fruit later in the season. Pruning in fall prior to applying any fungicides can reduce spore numbers overwintering on the tree and reduce the amount of fungicide needed. If leaf curl symptoms occurred on your trees in spring, be sure to treat the following fall and/or winter to prevent more serious losses the following year. When using pesticides, always read and follow the label for usage, rates, toxicity, and proper disposal. Proper protective clothing and gear including goggles should be used when handling any pesticides" (Emphasis mine).
I hope this information helps you get your leaf curl fungus problem under control. Your pictures do not appear to show a heavy infestation, so taking proper control methods this fall and next spring before the leaves open should prove effective.
http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/7261.pdf
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PDF/PESTNOTES/pnleafcurl.pdf
Help Desk of the Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (TDT)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).