- Author: Kathy Low
Expensive feature laden electric tillers aren't necessarily the best tiller for you. You have to consider the ergonomics of the tiller. I found this out the hard way.
I purchased my original electric tiller new many years ago for about $100. I've been very happy with it. But I often wished it still did not take me so long to till the back yard every spring.
For years a gardening friend told me I should upgrade to a popular brand tiller she called the “Cadillac” of tillers. So this year I thought I'd indulge and purchased the supposed luxury tiller. Both my old and new tiller have an 8.2 amp engine. But my new tiller has three speeds, opposed to the one speed of my older tiller. But the cost of my new tiller was $350.
The first time I used it, I began to regret my purchase. I completely forgot to consider ergonomics before purchasing it. First, let me say I'm no Spring chicken and I don't have the strength or mobility I used to have when I was in my twenties and thirties.
My new luxury tiller did not come with wheels like my old tiller. Although the manual said I could “walk” the tiller to the yard, I didn't have the strength to force walk the tiller into the yard. Weighing about 20 pounds, it was too heavy to carry so I had to load it into my garden cart to roll it to the backyard.
Once I was ready to start tilling, per the manual, I set the speed to the slowest level. When I started the tiller, it pulled me forward so strongly I almost fell forward before releasing the start grip. Although the tiller was heavy, it still bounced around on surface of the hard clay soil for a few seconds before the tines dug into the soil. Once it started digging into the soil it took considerable effort to keep the tiller steady, and from dragging me forward against my will. It was also difficult to maneuver it when it was on. I realized a big part of the problem was the length of the non-adjustable handles which were way too long for my height. The handles were less than a foot shorter than my total height, making the tiller difficult to control.
The tiller also had a bad habit of falling on its side while tilling. I suspect this problem was related to my lack of strength in keeping the handles straight while it was on. Also, the lack of wheels made it less easy to balance. I doubt I will ever use the two faster tiller speeds out of concern for my safety.
The tiller width of both my tillers is about the same, but the tines are very different. The tines of my old tiller are elbow shaped, as you can see in the photo. But the tines of my new tiller are more like daggers. The dagger-like tines break up the clay soil more easily and faster than the elbow shaped tines.
My new tiller would be wonderful to use if I were taller and stronger, and if it had wheels. I may decide to pay an additional $70 for wheels for my new tiller to help make it easier to transport and hopefully keep it from falling on its side. But while I decide, I will continue to use my old tiller which is a much better ergonomic fit for me.
Bottom line: When selecting an electric tiller to purchase, don't forget to also consider if the tiller is a good ergonomic fit for you.
- Author: Betsy Buxton
Several weeks ago at the Vallejo Farmers' Market, a couple had an interesting question: “Where or who tests soil for lead?”. Never having had a question like that, the three of us looked at each other and started giving out the usual suggestions. Those suggestions included the Agricultural Commissioner's Office, the Vallejo Public Health Department, and of course, the Internet. When the folks left, we chuckled to each other as who would do or need to test soil for lead. As it turns out, probably a lot of us.
At home, I started out to research possible answers to the question; what I found has truly given me a quite an education into a subject I never gave a thought about! But I do now!
There was information on the subject of lead in the home soil on the UNITED STATES ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY website with pages and pages of test laboratories across the United States, including 16 in California alone. Not just any labs are recognized as testing labs. The NLLAP (The National Lead Laboratory Accreditation Program) is an EPA program which defines the minimum requirements and abilities that a laboratory must meet to attain EPA recognition as an accredited lead testing laboratory and have therefore demonstrated the ability to accurately analyze paint chips, dust, or soil samples for lead.
If you own a home that was built before 1978 and/or live on a heavily-trafficked street, chances are very good that you have lead in your soil due to prior house painting or the then use of leaded gasoline. Good news is that lead does not travel easily through soil and is probably confined to the top 2 inches of soil; the bad news is that children play in the soil and some soil can go into their mouths. Testing for lead should be done if: 1. your house has chipped or peeling paint; 2. your house has bare soil in the yard where children play; 3. you plan to repaint, remodel or renovate the house; 4. a child living in the house has had a blood lead test result indicating lead exposure; 5. or, the was built before 1950 – those homes almost always have some lead-based paint.
The places to test for lead-contaminated soil are around the foundation, where children play, unpaved pathways, under windows or walls with peeling or chipping paint, where PETS play or rest, and areas near traffic zones (automobiles).
The following are the EPA limits for paint (5,000 ppm [parts per million]); for bare soil the limit is 400 ppm in bare soil in areas where children play (1,000 ppm or more in other areas); and 40 micrograms of lead per SQUARE FOOT in dust from interior floors and exterior floors.
Testing for lead is not a recommended do-it-yourself job. Only an accredited laboratory should do the testing. Whichever lab is chosen will give thorough instructions for collecting, containing, and labeling your samples. But remember, the results will be only for samples collected not the entire yard or area.
The most serious source of exposure to soil lead is through direct ingestion or eating of contaminated soil or dust. In general most plants do not take up lead or accumulate lead, however, in areas with lead results, higher concentrations are more likely to be found in leafy vegetables (i.e. lettuces, etc) and on the surface of root crops (i.e. carrots, turnips, beets).
If you find high lead test results, the best growing areas will be raised beds for vegetable gardening and the use of mulch to keep children and pets from bare soil contact.
After reading all of this information, I shudder that I chuckled at the couple's question and the truly inadequate information we gave them that day. I really learned a lot doing this research!
A List of Sources:
United States Environmental Protective Agency
University of Minnesota Extension, Carl J. Rosen
PennState Extension, No author Listed
KQED Public Media, Eliza Barclay
Testing Your Home For Lead In Paint and Soil, Internet article no author cited
- Author: Sharon L. Rico
Pruning home deciduous fruit trees is not a difficult task, although one that requires knowledge, skill and patience. Pruning methods change as the tree grows from a newly planted young tree to pruning a fruit-bearing tree.
To plant and prune a new deciduous fruit tree place the tree on a slight mound for correct drainage. The bud union should be at least 3-4 inches above the soil height. The uppermost large roots should be below the surface of the soil. Cut the trunk at 18 to 24 inches from the soil. I recall hearing this information to cut the tree ‘knee high' during the Master Gardener training class, and hearing the audible gasp from the trainees.
If the branches below the cut are not developed well, cut them off at the truck. In warm climates, paint the trunk with a mix of 50% white latex paint to 50% water. Using a sponge brush paint from 2 inches below the soil to the top of the tree.
Major annual pruning is necessary for most deciduous fruit trees to produce regular crops of acceptable sized fruit. Mid spring through summer fruit trees can be pruned for shape and height. Backyard growers are often reluctant to do major pruning on a tree in fear of hurting or killing it. This fear is unwarranted as proper pruning invigorates the trees and will extend their years of bearing fruit.
The ideal time to prune is when the tree is dormant. During the first 5 years of the trees life, it should be pruned for structural strength and correct height for thinning and harvesting fruit. As the tree matures (over 5 years), it is pruned to maintain and renew fruiting wood and to distribute fruitwood properly throughout the tree. It will also reduce its crop so the fruit will size better and limbs will not break from the weight of the fruit. During this time, any dead, damaged or diseased branches should be removed, along with water sprouts and suckers.
Pruning correctly is the most important practice used to train young trees. Pruning mature trees helps reduce tree height, create sunlight penetration into the canopy and reduce the amount of fruit thinning the tree will require.
Tools needed to accomplish pruning chores are an orchard ladder, good pruning shears and a sharp pruning saw. There are other tools available to help with this job including a pole pruner or ratchet type pruners.
The photos below are of two mature persimmon trees in our neighborhood. One pruned correctly and one chain saw pruned. Which one would you want to have in your yard? The photos were taken the same day, one month apart.
- Author: Lanie Keystone
Spring is here in all its beauty. Trees are in bloom and flowers are in profusion from all the glorious rain. As we begin working in our gardens or even just taking a casual walk, those flowers speak to us in a special language. And, sometimes we like to answer back!
All of these flowers—(or maybe it's the wonderful PBS series, “Victoria”!) have me thinking about the Victorians and how they used flowers to adorn everything from wallpaper to bonnets. And it was the Victorians that had an elaborate way of communicating by using their well-loved flowers and plants.
The origin of “the language of flowers” actually predates Victorian times. Flowers and plants have had religious, mythological and symbolic meanings for centuries. The first flower dictionary was written in 1818 in Paris by Mme. Charlotte de la Tour—and it was an overnight sensation. Then, in 1879, the Victorian lady, Miss Corruthers, wrote an entire book on the subject. It became the standard source for flower symbolism in England and the United States.
After that, both men and women assigned meanings to flowers—known as “floriography.” Thus they could express their ideas and feelings within the boundaries of the strict etiquette of the time. Flowers gave them a “silent language” that allowed them to communicate many sentiments. Not only were pictures and embroideries methods of letting others know one's feelings—but the scent of a particular plant or flower on a handkerchief could carry the same message. So much more exciting and expressive than an email, text or tweet!
Because spring is for a bit of folly—just for fun—here is a list of flowers and their meanings.
Match them and see how you would do as a Victorian!
A. |
Morning Glory |
|
1. |
Defiance |
B. |
Chamomile |
|
2. |
Strength |
C. |
Daisy |
|
3. |
Affection |
D. |
Narcissus |
|
4. |
Hospitality |
E. |
Oak |
|
5. |
Durability |
F. |
Thistle |
|
6. |
Energy in Adversity |
G. |
Fennell |
|
7. |
Egotism |
H. |
Rhododendron |
|
8. |
Foresight |
I. |
Holly |
|
9. |
Innocence |
J. |
Zinnia |
|
10. |
Beware |
K. |
Oleander |
|
11 |
Thought of an Absent Friend |
L. |
Dogwood |
|
12 |
Danger |
Answers: A-3; B-6; C-9; D-7; E-4; F-1; G-2; H-12; I-8; J-11; K-10; L-5
Score: 2 correct: 1 petal; correct: 4: 1 blossom; 7 correct: 1 bouquet; 12 correct: an entire garden!
- Author: Mike Gunther
Heavy Morning Dew
Cool Winds and Kids Flying Kites
Allergies Waning