Poinsettia Red
By Andrea Peck
I was out pretending to jog last week when I spied a poinsettia hiding behind someone's trash can. It lay on its side, its under-leaves exposed to the hot California winter sun. Probably, it had fallen the great distance from the top of the trash can. It's a wonder it survived considering the tumble and the fact that it's potting soil was dry as a bone.
Based on its prone position, geographic location and the fact that this is San Luis Obispo County, land of the free pile, I assumed it was searching for a forever home. And because my mom had been asking me for a portion of the New York Times that was red and I couldn't find it, I decided to rescue the poor plant. It is red, after all.
I brought it home and watered it carefully, thankful for its redness and the excuse to stop that jogging nonsense. Now it is night and it is stuck outside. Should it be outside or inside? What does one do with a poinsettia?
The great thing about poinsettias is that they are disposable. Okay, that's not the great part. The GREAT part is that they are plants that are challenging. Your first challenge is keeping it. Spare the landfill one more live item and hold on to your little Red.
The ultimate challenge, should you decide to sign up for it, is getting your little baby to display its red leaves by next Christmas. That includes a little bit of Tom Foolery, a box and some scheduled attention.
The beginning of the year involves basic houseplant-style care. Keep your poinsettia moist, but not sopping wet. Remember, you are dealing with a picky plant. Your plant likes a south, east or west facing window with lots of bright light. Don't let it touch cold windows or set it near warm or cold drafts. This may cause premature leaf drop. The ideal spot hits 65° - 70°F during the day. At night, it prefers 55° - 60°F temperatures.
Now, get your calendar.
Water until the beginning of April and at this point begin watering with less frequency so that the plant dries in a gradual way. Don't let the plant dry severely – it should not have shriveled branches or walk a tightrope between life and death. You are simply cutting back on water.
After this drying period, place the plant in a cool (about 60°F) location that has plenty of air circulation.
Around the middle of May, cut all stems down to 4 inches above the soil and replant in a pot that is one to two inches larger in diameter. You may opt to keep the plant in the same container, just be sure to change the soil. Use a soilless mix that is not finely textured. Garden soil is not recommended as it may introduce disease. Once replanted, water thoroughly, allow to drain and then water again. Place the plant in a sunny window and keep it around 65° – 75° F. When new growth appears, fertilize with a water-soluble fertilizer, following the manufacturer's directions for flowering plants.
In early June, move the plant outdoors to a shady location. Continue to water and fertilize.
In July, pinch an inch from each stem.
Between August and September, pinch each stem again. This time, cut so that only 4 leaves remain on each stem. Now, that Red is bald, it's time to bring her back inside to avoid embarrassment. Place near a sunny window that remains at a temperature of 65° -70° F at night. She may not want visitors during this time, so be sensitive to her location. As mortifying as it is, this second pinching is necessary as it allows the plant to grow fuller and less gangly. After all, who wants a Skinny Minnie poinsettia staring you down as you eat your holiday turducken?
Now, for the interesting part. Poinsettias are short-day plants, meaning they flower after daylight decreases to less than 12 hours per day. In order to mimic this, you will need to expose your plant to sun during the day and complete darkness at night. The extended darkness forces the plant to bloom. Possibly the best schedule is as follows: Beginning October 1st through Thanksgiving, place an opaque box around your plant from 5:00p.m. until 8:00 a.m. When “unboxed,” the poinsettia should be in a sunny location. Continue watering and fertilizing.
When mid-December hits, you can throttle back on the fertilizing and start the whole crazy process again.
Next season, your once-humble plant will take center stage while you fade thankfully into the shadows.