Advice for the Home Gardener from the
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program
of Contra Costa County
Request: We have lived in our house for 22 years in central County. Just the past few years we have been plagued by “no-see-ums” as the weather starts to warm. They are generally gone by the time it's hot.
Of course, the no-see-ums chase us indoors during the best time of year for gardening, socializing and enjoying the out-of-doors. Last year I spent time online researching how to prevent this pesky critter. I remember reading somewhere (?) a process for treating the yard to prevent their “hatch". Unfortunately, I can't find what I read, only how to prevent bites.
Can you help me with this? We have no lawn at the house, just trees and plants surrounded mostly by bark. I thought there was something you could spray or spread on the bark ground cover.
I will appreciate any advice you can share. Thank you in advance.
CCMG Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Program Master Gardner Help Desk with your question concerning those pesky No-See-Ums you are battling. My childhood was spent in Vermont where these pesky flies breed in epic proportions in the summer, making life outdoors miserable. I sympathize with your frustration.
These minuscule flies are in the Ceratopogonidae family of flies commonly known as no-see-ums, also referred to as sand flies, gnats and biting midges. This family includes more than 5,000 species, distributed worldwide, with the exception being the Antarctic and the Arctic.
Like mosquitoes, No-See-Ums lay their eggs in moist areas. Both males and females consume nectar and other sweet juices for nourishment. Females, however, will also seek out a blood meal to fuel egg production. Female No-See-Ums will bite humans, pets, livestock, wild animals and birds. They breed and develop in moist wet areas. With her need for blood satisfied, the impregnated female will seek out an appropriate place to lay her eggs, which can include water-retaining hollows in trees, muddy water, wet sand, and other similar areas. About 28 days later, adult No-See-Ums emerge and the cycle begins again. No-See-Ums can be more difficult to get rid of than mosquitoes. They are smaller than mosquitoes and more agile fliers.
The research on control leans heavily to “exclusion” techniques as opposed to chemical treatment, misting and fogging. Chemical treatments have proven, in testing, to have little to no effect. If spraying or treating with chemicals is not effective there is little sense in spending your time and money in addition to adding the pollutant to your environment. While exclusion is the preferred control method you should look your property over and make sure you do not have “wet'” breeding sites.
Exclusion techniques appear to be the most effective method of control. These include wearing protective clothing, installing ultra-fine mesh screening (US 16 Standard Mesh) in-home screens and enclosing patio and porch areas with this same fine mesh screening. If you are really determined to be outside there are also pop-up tents designed with drop-down screening fine enough to block the No-See-Ums.
Topical sprays have proven to be only barely effective but might add a bit of protection while working in the garden. You could use a mosquito repellent with DEET, in addition to wearing protective clothing.
There is some information that refers to trapping as being moderately effective to highly effective, the trap tested is the CO2 mosquito trap. A home version is not too expensive and might be worth a try. No-See-Ums and mosquitos breed in the same conditions so you would be controlling any potential mosquito population as well, it might be a win-win.
The UC information on gnats was very limited. The Bug Squad from UC Davis provides some more detailed information at https://ucanr.edu/blogs/bugsquad/index.cfm?tagname=Valley%20Black%20Gnats. The best information I found was a link to research-based information from the University of Arizona. https://cals.arizona.edu/apmc/docs/No-See-Ums-IPMShort.pdf
I hope you will find some success by employing these methods. The best method may be the passage of time and the increase in temperature.
Please do not hesitate to call us with more questions …hopefully we will find some new information on the control of No-See-Ums.
Help Desk of the UC Program of Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County (BHD)
Notes: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Biog.

- Author: Steve I Morse
Advice for the Home Gardener
from the UC Master Gardener Program
of Contra Costa County
Client's Request: Hello. We would like to plant a shade tree in our backyard in mid-County. We have a fairly shallow well… and am assuming a high water table although we don't have any wet, boggy areas. We have two semi-dwarf orange trees s that we never water and they are productive and sweet. Can you recommend links for some shade trees in these conditions .... such as Crape Myrtle, deciduous Magnolia, and Japanese Maples? Thank You.
MGCC Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with a question about tree selection. You didn't say how deep your well is, but the water table is probably deep enough that it won't impact trees in your landscape. Tree roots are generally found in the top 1 to 3 feet of soil, with only some sinker roots possibly venturing deeper. Trees don't usually have tap roots past the seedling stage, but rather grow roots that extend well past the dripline (outer edge of the tree's canopy).
If you have good drainage in your soil, any tree suited for your climate should be fine. To test your drainage, dig a hole about a foot deep. Fill it with water and allow it to drain completely. Immediately refill the hole and measure the depth of the water with a ruler. Fifteen minutes later, measure the drop in water in inches, and multiply by 4 to calculate how much water drains in an hour. Ideally, you should have 1 to 6 inches drainage per hour.
The trees you specifically asked about were Crape Myrtle, deciduous Magnolia and Japanese maple. Crape Myrtles (Lagerstroemia spp.) do well in mid-county. They need full sun and seem to appreciate our hot summers. There are many varieties to choose from. This link is to an article from the Sonoma County Master Gardeners about growing Crape Myrtles: http://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Plant_of_the_Month/Lagerstroemia_spp_Crepe_Myrtle/.
Deciduous Magnolia may not be a good choice. According to Sunset Western Garden Book, deciduous magnolias with saucer flowers do poorly in hot and dry areas. Deciduous magnolias with star flowers seem to do better, but are very slow-growing, and the variety called Star Magnolia (Magnolia stellata) stays quite small and is usually grown as a shrub.
Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) do best in cool climates and will need partial shade and protection from hot, dry wind in the hotter areas of the County. Morning sun and afternoon shade is best. The varieties with green leaves do better with more sun exposure than the varieties with red leaves or those with lacier leaves.
You might also consider Chinese pistache (Pistacia chinesis). It is well suited for our climate and makes a good shade tree. This link is to another article from the Sonoma Master gardeners: http://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Plant_of_the_Month/Chinese_Pistache/.
For other ideas, this link is to a searchable database where you can select aspects you want such as shade tree, deciduous, maximum height, etc. https://selectree.calpoly.edu/about. They have good descriptions of the trees, along with photographs.
If after you perform a drainage test you find you have poor drainage (less than 1 inch per hour), contact us again and we will research those trees more suitable for a boggier area. Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.
I hope this information is helpful and you find a good shade tree for your yard!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SEH)
Notes: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Biog.
Advice for the Home Gardener from the
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program
of Contra Costa County
Home Gardener's Request: Thank you for calling the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk concerning moles in your lawn. I'm sending links (below) for the information that we promised.
Master Gardener Help Desk Response:
For Moles: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74115.html.
You mentioned that you have had grubs previously, and it may be that moles are still present because grubs are a food source for them. If you can eliminate the grubs, the moles may move on. The above 'pest note' link (above) suggests that trapping is the most dependable control method for moles, and it gives detailed information should you decide this is necessary.
For Grubs: The links following also provide some information on lawn grubs: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/PESTS/inchaf.html
This link gives more details about treatment: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7476.html
Turf Management: Finally, UC has an extensive website on general lawn management at:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/
Most control methods for grubs are only effective while they are actively feeding and as we move into the colder part of the year, grubs are not so active. You can check your lawn by rolling back a bit of turf to see if grubs are present. If the mole damage is not too great, you might want to wait until spring to reassess the situation. Meanwhile, plan on giving your lawn the best care, with adequate irrigation and care and not to over-fertilize. This will give it the lawn its best chance to withstand pest damage.
If you have further questions, please do not hesitate to contact the Help Desk again.
Good luck with your lawn!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SMW)
Notes: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Biog.
Advice for the Home Gardener from the
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardeners
Program of Contra Costa County
Master Gardeners' Help Desk Request: I recently moved into a home in Clayton and am very fortunate to have inherited many beautiful perennials! One, in particular, has stumped me and I was hoping you would be able to help me identify it. I have attached a few pictures.
Along with identifying the plant, I am also curious as to seasonal care. It is obvious the flowers are finished. It is also very large and many have fallen to the ground (the plant isn't able to support itself). Should I cut it way back, deadhead the flowers, etc.?
Growing up in the Midwest, I don't have any experience with perennials in this climate! I am enjoying reading up and learning about the plants in my new yard. I appreciate your time and help on this endeavor!
Response from the MGCC Help Desk: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk about your unknown perennial. Any plant identification done from a picture must be considered tentative, however, I think that this plant is a Lepechinia sp., and I suspect it is Lepechinia hastata.


Originally looking at your pictures, the plant looks like a salvia. It has broad thick leaves, with well-defined veins. However, most salvias flower on a single stalk and the flowers do not branch as you get to the top of the plant. This branching of the flowers is very prominent in your pictures as is the calyx (the cup that holds the flower on the plant). Lepechinia sp. have very similar leaves to salvias, but can have these branching flowers and a very prominent calyx.
They are in the same family as salvias and are so similar, they are frequently referred to as the false sage or the pitcher sage. There are Lepechinia sp. which are native to California but these seem to have a more drooping carriage. With the upright flowers on your plant, it likely is Lepechinia hastata, a variety that possibly was native to Mexico or Hawaii.
According to the Sunset Western Garden Book, Lepechinia sp. can grow up to 6 feet tall and wide. They require almost no summer water except under the hottest conditions and deer are rarely interested in them. It was difficult to find any clear advice about caring for this plant as it seems to require almost no care. It likes well-draining soil and does not want to be soggy.
A few nurseries recommend deadheading the plant or cutting it back after blooming so it seems reasonable to clean up the parts of your plant that have fallen down. In areas that are warm enough, it might continue to produce some flowers year-round.
Hope this helps.
Best of luck with your new garden
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SES)
Notes: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Biog.
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program in Contra Costa County
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Bed Bug Facts: To refresh your memory about bed bugs, here are some bed bug facts:
- The Help Desk has (formerly real live) bed bugs encased in a mount for close-up viewing.
Contrary to popular belief, bed bugs are not microscopic. While small, you can see all life stages with the naked eye. - Both nymphs (immatures) and adults only feed on blood and must have a blood meal in order to develop and survive.
- Bed bugs do not jump or fly but they are good hitchhikers.
- Bed bugs generally feed at night and typically hide in dark cracks and crevices during the day.
- Common hiding places are typically located within 6 feet from areas where humans sleep or rest including box springs, along mattress seams, behind headboards, or inside furniture and upholstery.
- There are several ways to prevent bed bug infestations in your home.
- When traveling, check for bed bugs in your hotel room. Inspect your luggage before leaving, and wash and dry all your clothing when you get home.
- If you purchase second-hand furniture, thoroughly inspect the item for bed bugs before bringing it into your home.
Here are some UC IPM web resources on bed bugs that you might also find of interest: - Pest Notes: Bed Bugs
- Bed Bugs Quick Tip Card (English) and Chinches de Cama (Spanish)
YouTube videos - Don't bring bed bugs home when you travel
- How to use a bed bug detector
- How to inspect for bed bugs
YouTube videos Spanish versions: - Cómo saber si tiene chinches de cama
- No traiga chinches a casa al volver de viaje
- Cómo usar un detector de chinches de cama
If you have more questions, please contact us via our Help Desk or at our “Ask a Master Gardener” tables at Farmers Markets and other events. (see addresses below)
Help Desk of the UC Master Garden Program of Contra Costa County
Notes: Contra Costa MG's Help Desk is available almost year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays (e.g., last 2 weeks December), we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 2380 Bisso Lane, Concord, CA 94520. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 608-6683, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/. MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Biog.