Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Thank you for contacting the Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County. Your recent email had three related questions:
1. Growing watermelons and tomatoes in large containers…what is the best soil composition for successful growth?
2. What type of soil is best for your tomatoes that will be grown in wine barrels in 8 hours of hot sun?
3. Your compost material has lots of worms in it. The compost will be mixed into a wine barrel in the hot sun. How can you keep the worms alive and well in wine barrels planters in full sun?
Here are some additional thoughts about each approach as well as some notes on the benefits and disadvantages of each approach.
Soil, sand, compost and coconut coir. If you use this approach, it would be best to use a loamy garden soil. Silty loam would be the best. Sandy loam could be used, but in that case you should use less sand in the mixture. Clay soils are generally avoided for watermelon culture because they drain poorly, but they can be productive if irrigated with care to prevent prolonged saturation of the root zone (a condition that favors the development of root rot pathogens) and to allow good drainage between irrigations. Adding plenty of organic matter (e.g., compost or coconut coir) would make both the clay and sandy soils more productive.
If you use garden soil, keep in mind that it can contain insects, weed seeds and disease organisms. For this reason, it would be best to heat the soil in an oven for 1 hour at 210°F to kill any bacteria, fungi, insects, or weed seeds before the soil is combined with the compost and sand.
This soil mixture will be heavier than the commercial potting mixture. Added weight is sometimes a disadvantage for containers. However, since the containers may become a bit top heavy if you have a good crop of large watermelons or tomatoes growing upward on a support structure, the added weight could be an advantage. If you want the planter to be lighter, you could replace the sand in the mixture with either perlite or vermiculite. Those amendments will aid in drainage just as the sand does but would produce a mixture that weighs less than one that includes sand.
Commercial Soil Mixture Combined With Compost And Coconut Coir. Usually a commercial soil mixture does not include any actual soil, but they can still provide a very good growing medium. If you use an available commercial soiless mixture, it would probably not be necessary to add either compost or coconut coir. This commercial mixture's ingredients already include compost, and the peat moss would function in much the same way as coconut coir to improve water retention. Adding compost and coconut coir wouldn't detract but would add to the cost.
One disadvantage of the mixture is that it uses peat moss which is less sustainable than the coconut coir alternative. Peat comes from very slow-growing, slow rotting plants and it typically takes 1,000 years for a bog to add 1 yard to its depth. Coconut coir is a byproduct of the coconut industry and is more easily renewed than peat.
If you want to make your own potting mixture that does not include garden soil or peat moss, you can use a combination of one-third each of compost, vermiculite or perlite and coconut coir. Measure the volume of the coconut coir only after it has been soaked in water since its volume will increase significantly once it absorbs the water. I've have been regularly growing vegetables in containers for many years and always use this potting mixture. It would work well for both the tomatoes and the watermelons.
For additional information on growing watermelons, I suggest you look over the information found at:http://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/7213.pdf . For information about growing tomatoes in containers, see http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/files/229047.pdf.
Compost Worms In Containers. In our research, there are varying opinions about the viability of worms in containers. Considering that you mentioned having worms in your containers that will be in the hot sun for 8 hours per day, the worms would not survive in this environment. They prefer moist, cool soil which might be hard to manage in your situation. However, experimentation is always a great learning experience (although maybe not for the worms). For example, you could consider using some shade protection on very hot days. Possibly you could set it up in a way that shades the container but not the plants. Also, be sure that the soil mixture has plenty of peat and/or coconut coir to help retain water.
Thank you for contacting the Help Desk. Feel free to check back with us if you have additional questions.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa County (tkl)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client: Hello, I live in Contra Costa County and am basically a newborn to the gardening world. I want to grow fruit trees in my home "orchard". I have a “big” question: What fruits will grow well where I live and how do I grow them?
I hope that this information is helpful. Good luck on your “orchard”.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa
Client: This weed is growing in my lawn. Could you please tell me what it is and how do I eradicate and/or prevent it?
MGCC Help Desk: Thank you for bringing the weed sample from your lawn for identification and recommendations on its elimination and control.
Annual bluegrass loves damp, shady areas. You can reduce favorable conditions for this weed by watering deeply and infrequently. The weed's shallow roots will not be able to reach down to where the moisture is. Annual Bluegrass will also invade lawns where the soil has become compacted. You can reduce lawn compaction by aerating during non-sprouting periods. This will allow water to settle deeper in the soil away from the shallow-rooted weeds.
For more information on this weed and its control, please see the UC Davis publication, How to Manage Pests in Gardens and Landscapes - Annual Bluegrass at http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7464.html.
Please let us know if you have any additional questions
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (VLT)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client: I wondering if you could help identify the issue with some of the leaves on my Lisbon lemon tree? I typically water once a week and not again until it dries out.
MGCC Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your question about your lemon tree. Thank you for the photograph which was very helpful.
The vein yellowing evident in the photograph you sent could be due to several factors:
- There is a virus that can cause vein yellowing, but it is not common in our area, and so is probably not the cause.
- Herbicide toxicity can cause this type of symptom. If you have used an herbicide containing either diuron or bromacil, that could be the cause. If you have not used herbicides, then the cause is probably nitrogen deficiency.
- Although nitrogen deficiency symptoms usually present as more general yellowing rather than prominent vein yellowing, nitrogen deficiency can cause vein yellowing when the soil is cold (usually during the winter months), or if stems or the trunk are girdled (mechanically constricted). If there are any ties around your tree, you should remove them.
Lemon trees need regular fertilization, particularly with nitrogen, to remain healthy and productive. If you have not fertilized your tree this spring, we recommend that you do so now. You can either use ammonium sulfate or a standard citrus fertilizer. Information on proper nitrogen fertilization of citrus, based on the age of the tree, can be found at this University of California website http://ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/citfertilization.html.Or you can just follow the directions on the fertilizer label.
Citrus has many roots near the soil surface. Lemon tree roots should not be disturbed by digging or cultivating, since damaged roots will negatively impact water and nutrient absorption. At least several inches of mulch under the entire tree is usually also recommended to protect the roots, keep the roots cool, retain Irrigation moisture, and minimize competing weeds. Keep the mulch at least 6” from the trunk.
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Citrus should be watered every 7 - 10 days during the dry season. Additional information on how to water citrus can be found (and/or downloaded free) at the University of California's website http://ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/citruswatering.html .
I hope that this information is helpful. If you water and fertilize the lemon tree properly but the leaves do not green up with 4 weeks, please feel free to contact us again.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (JL)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client: Some animal is burrowing throughout my garden. I've had pocket gophers in the past, but I'm not sure that's what I've got this time. Could you help me identify the “burrower” and suggest possible controls? Also, are these pests nocturnal?
MGPCC Help Desk: Thank you for contacting UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa with your question regarding pest control of the burrowing pest(s) in your garden.
The potential pests in your yard could be ground squirrels, moles, pocket gophers or voles. You also mentioned that you have had pocket gophers in the past and wondered which of these critters are nocturnal.
All members of the squirrel family except flying squirrels are diurnal – which means they're active primarily during the day. Moles are not nocturnal. This misconception is probably the result of people looking out their window in the morning and seeing fresh mole hills. In fact, moles are not necessarily more or less active at any time during the day or night. They are more active during quiet periods, such as early morning or late in the evening. Pocket gophers are active throughout the day with periods of rest. Voles can be nocturnal or diurnal depending on the species.
The best way to determine what type of pest you have is by the damage you see.
- Ground Squirrels: The key identifier for these rodents is an exposed tunnel entrance with discarded dirt surrounding the entrance of the tunnel. You can see right into a ground squirrel burrow, unlike that of moles or pocket gophers.
- Moles: If you have a mole, you will see mounds of dirt and/or surface tunnels. Dirt mounds (look like piles or "puffs" of dirt shaped like a volcano) and surface tunnels (look like the veins on the back of your hand). Not all moles will have both surface tunnels and dirt mounds. If you see one or the other (or both), you have a mole.
- Pocket Gophers: Damage done by pocket gophers is similar to moles, but there is a major difference. Dirt mounds are crescent-shaped (like a "C") with a "dirt plug" on one side of the mound.
- Voles: Voles typically “piggy back” on the damage done by moles and tend to travel in mole tunnels and often are the cause of damage to roots, bulbs, and tubers within.
UC IPM Pest Notes (via free download) provide specific guidance on identification of these garden pests as well as controls. Here are the links to the appropriate Pest Notes:
Ground Squirrels:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7438.html
Moles:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74115.html
Pocket Gophers:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7433.html
Voles:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7439.html
Good luck on your on successful controls. You have many fellow gardeners who feel your pain.
Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have additional questions.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SLH)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).