Advice for the Home Gardener from the Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk
Client's Questions and Requests
Client called and discussed about his need for more information about pruning his numerous backyard fruit trees. He lives in central county. CCMG Help Desk followed up with an email on advice about pruning his fruit trees.
CCMG Help Desk Response and Advice:
Thank you for calling the Master Gardener help desk this morning. It was nice to speak with you. It was also great to get a new recipe for cooking fava beans!
You have a wide variety of wonderful fruit trees in your yard, many of them not commonly planted in this area. You asked about pruning them. Basically, the idea behind pruning is to control size for easier care in maintaining and picking fruit (taller trees do not bear more fruit!); increase strength – develop strong limb structure; distribute sunlight evenly throughout tree; regulate fruit bearing – removes excess fruitwood; renew fruitwood – to continue strong buds and flowers; and to remove undesirable wood- dead, broken, and crossing branches.
University of California and its Cooperative Extension provides a wealth of information, most of it free through their catalog (http://ucanr.edu/Publications_524/)which you can order from (see also link on CCMG home page (http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/), column left). You can also find extensive UCCE information published on the web. Here is a link to a great publication that describes fruit tree pruning and includes diagrams to help you figure out how to prune your own trees: http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/8057.pdf.
You mentioned that some of your trees were getting large-here's a link to an article about pruning overgrown fruit trees: http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/8058.pdf. Both of these have enough basic information to cover all your deciduous trees, but for the less-common varieties, I'll give you some hopefully useful hints and tips below, as well as links to more information about each one.
Prune citrus in late spring or summer to shape trees, only to remove twiggy growth, dead wood and weak branches, or any crossing, broken or shaded branches from the interior. Wait until May to prune out any frost-damaged wood, as it may revive. Here is a link to Citrus for the Home Garden in Contra Costa County: http://ucanr.edu/blogs/slomggarden/blogfiles/4260.pdf. You'll find lots of information specific to growing citrus here. Here is another link that covers diseases and disorders of citrus fruit: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/C107/m107bpfruitdis.html. You'll see that brown rot is common in citrus—this causes the soft dark decay that develops in citrus and occurs mostly on the bottom side of fruit and happens mostly to fruit lower on the tree (closer to the soil). The dark spots on your Mandarins is possibly from a bacterial infection.
Quince
Codling moths (common on apples, pears and other fruit) can be a problem for quince. They can be difficult to manage, especially if the population has been allowed to build up over a season or two. It is much easier to keep moth numbers low from the start than to suppress a well-established population. In trees with low levels, codling moth often can be kept to tolerable levels by using a combination of nonchemical management methods; however, it is important to begin implementing these measures early in the season. Sanitation should be the first step in any codling moth control program. Every week or two, beginning about six to eight weeks after bloom, check fruit on trees for signs of damage. Remove and destroy any infested fruit showing the frass-filled holes. It also is important to clean up dropped fruit as soon as possible after they fall, because dropped fruit can have larvae in them. Removing infested fruit from the tree and promptly pick up dropped fruit from the ground is most critical in May and June but should continue throughout the season.
Excellent control can be achieved by enclosing young fruit in bags right on the tree to protect them from the codling moth. This is the only nonchemical control method that is effective enough to be used alone and in higher population situations. However, it is quite time consuming to apply the bags, so this method is most manageable on smaller trees with fewer fruit. You can bag all the fruit on the tree or just as many fruit as you think you will need. Keep in mind that unbagged fruit are likely to serve as a host and increase the pest population, so it would be prudent to employ sanitation to keep the population in check.
Here is a link to information about codling moths from the University of California: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7412.html that goes into detail about controlling these pests.
Prune in late winter after danger from winter freezes, but before the tree blooms in spring. To keep the interior of the tree open during the growing season, prune in summer as needed. Light annual pruning of established trees encourages fruit production; pomegranates tend not to require heavy pruning if maintained regularly. Remove dead and damaged wood during late winter and remove sprouts and suckers as they appear. Heavy pruning will reduce the crop.
As I mentioned on the phone, apricots should be pruned during the summer in late August because of a fungus that infects trees during the cool and wet season. Remove shoots from the center of the tree and cut out interfering limbs and dead and diseased wood. Here is a link to information about pruning apricots:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/apripruning.html.
Fig trees are productive with or without heavy pruning. It is essential only during the initial years. Since the crop is borne on terminals of previous year's wood, once the tree form is established, avoid heavy winter pruning, which causes loss of the following year's crop. It is better to prune immediately after the main crop is harvested, or with late-ripening cultivars, summer prune half the branches and prune the remainder the following summer. If radical pruning is done, whitewash the entire tree. Here is a link to information from California Rare Fruit Growers (CRFG): http://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/fig.html.
Mulberry
Jujubes
Prune persimmon trees to develop a strong framework of main branches while the tree is young. Otherwise the fruit, which is borne at the tips of the branches, may be too heavy and cause breakage. A regular program of removal of some new growth and heading others each year will improve structure and reduce alternate bearing. An open vase system is probably best. Even though the trees grow well on their own, persimmons can be pruned heavily as a hedge, as a screen, or to control size. They even make a nice espalier. Cut young trees back to 1/2 high (or about 3 feet) at the time of planting. Here is information from CRFG: http://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/persimmon.html and from UC that includes information on pests and diseases of persimmons: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/persimmon.html.
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Since so many of your trees are not typically grown in our area, one of your best resources is the California Rare Fruit Growers. Their website is http://www.crfg.org/, the local chapter is the Golden Gate chapter (http://www.crfg.org/chapters/golden_gate/index.htm). The Golden Gate Chapter of CRFG conducts meetings throughout the northern San Francisco Bay Area, usually in the odd-numbered months on the second Saturday of the month. Meetings almost always include speakers, tastings, a raffle of unusual plants and the chance to talk to people who live in your area and who share your interests. You would probably find someone who could advise you further on pruning techniques at one of their meetings. In addition, CRFG holds a Scion Exchange in January that you might want to attend. In the past when I've attended, they had classes on pruning of the various fruit trees that you have, let alone the opportunity to get scions that you might want to graft onto your trees (scions are usually free… $5 charge for non-members at the door). Information on the CRFG's Scion Exchange can be found at http://www.crfg.org/chapters/golden_gate/scionex.htm. I have always enjoyed the Exchanges when I attended.
I hope this gives you a start on pruning your backyard orchard. Please let us know if you have more questions.
Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk
Note: The Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/
- Author: Shannon Wolfe
There are many old holiday traditions that date back to when society was more focused around agriculture. You might think that since Christmas has passed, so have all such traditions. But you would be wrong. To many people the Christmas season only begins on December 25, and continues for twelve days and nights to January 6. My mother-in-law is very into learning about and sharing some of these old traditions, one of my favorite of which is wassailing the apple trees.
Wassailing is an old tradition that took place on Twelfth Night (January 5th) or "Old Christmas Eve," especially in areas where cider apples were grown. Right before dark the wassail (spiced ale or hard cider topped with roasted apples) would be prepared and ladled into the special wassail bowl (similar to a punch bowl with handles). The village would gather at the orchard after dark with the wassail on hand and proceed to bang pots, shoot off guns, and make a racket to frighten away any evil spirits that could still be lurking about on this last night of Christmas. This commotion would also help to begin to "wake up" the trees from their winter hibernation. The trees were blessed with thanks and urged with rhyming chants to produce an even better crop in the new year. The oldest, most venerable tree's health would be "toasted" with a piece of wassail-soaked bread or cake placed in its branches.
If wassail was left over after regaling the trees, then the ceremonies would conclude with the villagers quenching their own thirst before returning home. In some areas, the young people would go from house to house in the village, singing wassail songs and receiving small gifts or treats in return.
Wassail is an old Middle English contraction of waes hael, meaning "be health" or "be whole," that was derived from the old Norse ves heill "to be healthy." The reply to waes hael was drinc hael, or "drink and be healthy." The modern expression "hale and hearty" shares the same roots.
Below are a couple recipes for wassail that you can try at home for your next holiday (or wassailing) party.
A Swinging Wassail
- 1 quart ale
- 1 teaspoon cinnamon
- 5 or 6 pieces cracked ginger or 1 teaspoon powdered ginger
- 2 cups sherry wine
- Juice and thinly pared rind of 1 lemon
- Sugar, to taste
- 2 slices toasted bread (if desired)
- 6 or 8 baked crab apples or 2 or 3 baked large apples
Heat ale in saucepan until just about to boil. Stir in spices, sherry, lemon juice, slivered rind and sugar. Stir until sugar dissolves then cover and simmer over low heat for 20 to 30 minutes. Do not boil at any time. Remove from heat and either pour into punch bowl or individual cups and add toast (if desired) and apples.
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk
Client's Brussels Sprouts “Problem”
Response and Advice from the CCMG Help Desk:
Thanks for the GREAT picture! You have an "aphid" infestation. Brussels sprouts are in the Brassica family, and this is a very common ailment for that family of vegetables. Most plants can tolerate some aphid infestation but yours has reached a moderate level so you will want to take action.
Management options:
- Often a forceful spray of water directly on the aphids will knock them off, once they have fallen to the ground most will not be able to climb back up on the plant. Use the water jet option first as it is the least invasive.
- The second action you could employ would be to use a water-soap solution, this would be an insecticidal soap available at any nursery. They are sold in ready to use formulas and in concentrates which must be mixed with water before use. Make sure to follow the directions on the package if you purchase a concentrate.
- For more stubborn infestations you can use a Neem Oil application. Again use the water jet first and then treat any remaining aphids with the Neem Oil.
These products kill primarily by smothering the aphid, so you will need to make sure you cover the infested foliage well, targeting both the top and underside of the leaves. Soaps and oils kill only the aphids present on the day they are sprayed, so you will need to monitor the plant regularly and repeat the application as needed. Keep in mind that any active spray will also kill beneficial insects so spray only when you need to and only the minimum amount you need to get the job done.
The following link is to the UC Davis IPM web site's Pest Note on aphids, it will help you understand the life cycle, good cultural care practices and management options. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7404.html
The good news is you can get this pest under control with some diligence on your part.
Thanks again for contacting us and enjoy those Brussels sprouts.
Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk
Note: The Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk
Client's Question:
Response from the CCMG Help Desk:
Thank you for your call this morning about your navel orange tree. Fruit should be harvested when it has developed full color and, most importantly, full flavor. Citrus turn color in fall when they are exposed to cold temperatures, but this does not affect the fruit sweetness. Navel oranges may not be ready to harvest until the late winter, and Valencia oranges are usually mature in the summer.
The best place to store the fruit is on the tree. Once you pick the fruit, it does not increase in sweetness or ripen more fully. Unfortunately, freezing temperatures don't care if your oranges are ripe or not! However, if you do pick the fruit, it will keep for about 4 to 6 weeks under refrigeration. (Note: Commercial orange growers basically use the orchard's trees as their warehouse making multiple pickings as they ripen. If a freeze is predicted, growers will usually pick all the oranges and sell them for juice).
For even further information on protecting citrus in the winter, I would recommend two publications "Frost Protection for Citrus and Other Sub-Tropicals" (http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/pdf/8100.pdf) and “Citrus for the Home Garden in Contra Costa County”.(http://ucanr.edu/blogs/slomggarden/blogfiles/4260.pdf).
Please contact us again if you have more questions.
Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk
Note: The Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk
Description of the client's problem:
Advice From the CCMG's Help Desk:
The pest that is causing the new leaf growth on your citrus trees to curl is most likely the Citrus Leaf Miner. The adult stage is a very small moth, which lays eggs on young citrus leaves. When the larvae emerge from the eggs a week or so later, they bore into the leaves and begin feeding, leaving minute trails observable on the surface of the leaves. As the larvae grow, the trails become more pronounced and noticeable.
After feeding for two to three weeks inside the leaf tissue, the larva emerges and enters a pupal stage. At this point, the leaf curls over the pupa to protect it. The pupal stage lasts from one to three weeks. Because the life cycle moves so quickly (between three and seven weeks, depending on the ambient temperatures), multiple generations of the pest can develop in warm weather.
You can see photos of the leaf miner moth and the damage it causes at this website: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74137.html. This website also contains information about management of this pest.
Since the leaf miner pest typically attacks only the new leaf growth regardless of the age of the tree, there are some cultural strategies that you can use to reduce the prevalence of the new growth, such as limiting pruning to once a year (pruning encourages new growth), going easy on fertilizing, and not over-watering. Past experience with this leaf miner indicates that we might see a year or two of damaged trees as it has only just arrived in our area, but as the natural enemies develop, it should be less of a problem. Use of pesticides is not recommended at this time and in most instances would be ineffective because the miner is inside the leaf and it may kill off beneficial insects.
Hopefully this information answers your question and will help you managing this pest. Please do not hesitate to contact us again if you have questions.
Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk
Note: The Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/
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